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Sabrina Dallot-Seguro

on 4 December 2013

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"More and more fashion is fashion photography" - Susan Sontag
Definition :
“Fashion Photography is a genre of photography devoted to displaying clothing and fashion items. Fashion Photography is most often conducted for advertisements or fashion magazines, such as Vogue, VF or Elle. Over time, Fashion Photography has developed its own aesthetic in which the clothes and fashions are enhanced by the presence of exotic locations or accessories.”
(Tim Walker)
Gucci Billboard
Catalogues - Lookbooks
In Store Adverts
Technical Procedures
(The Times)
(Topshop, Oxford St)
Explored As:
Visual image
Material object
Technological Process
Methods of Analysis
Stylistic Analysis
Sociohistorical Readings
Feminist studies
Sexuality & desire
Semiological Readings
Earliest Fashion
Virginia Oldoini, Countess di Castiglione- Pierre-Louise Pierson (c.1853)

1st Vouge
1st Harper's Bazaar Cover

(2nd, nov 1867)
(17th, dec 1892)
Cecil Beaton
Paula Gellibrand (1928)
Bob Richardson
William Klein
Nan Goldin
Terry Richardson
Juergen Teller
Corrine Day
5th Avenue, New York, 1955
The Ballad of Sexual
Dependency ,70s
Bottega Veneta by Nan Goldin.
March 25, 2010
H&M summer 2013
Frances Goldman, Paris, 1999
(The Clients)
1. literal Representation
Tom Kublin, Balenciaga, 1953
2. Romanticized
Chris Von Wangenheim, Vogue, 1979
3. Mockery
John Rawlings, Vogue, 1954
A cinematic fashion shoot from 1972 (also for Italian Vogue) featured Angelica Huston and the model Lipp Jens as her Nazi lover.
Angelica Huston
Kate Moss, 1990
Mario Sorrenti
Kate Moss, obsession Calvin Klein , 1993

"Fashion designers work in a world whose currency is the magazine front cover, the editorial spread, the styled photo shoot... succesful designers are under extraordinary pressure from hundreds of magazines.. wanting clothes to fill their magazines. As a result, a network of support teams has grown to serve the industry, consisting of press and pr, publicity, co-ordination, editorial stylists, fashion photographers. For most people, the media provides the only contact with experimental or couture fashion. These garments are either too expensive or unsuitable for mainstream retail distribution, and we are left to consumer fantasy images of magazine shoots"
LOST AND FOUND (British Council design show 1999):
Annie Lomax
Technological Developments
Telephone/ Mobiles/ Instant messaging/ E-mail/ Skype/ FaceBook/ Twitter/ Linkedin/ Airmail/ Courriers/ Transport/...

(analogue/ digital: Large format/ Medium/ 35mm/ Compact/ Bridge/ Smartphone/ Video/ GoPro)


Computers/ Laptops/ Tablets/ Tethering

Studio Setup:
(lighting Equipment/ Reflectors/ Trigger/ PocketWizard/ Special Effects/ Smoke

Developing film/ Darkroom/ Printing/ Enlargers/ Exposures/ Darkroom Techniques/ Dodging/ Burning/ Toning etc...

Computers/ Laptops/ Tablets/ Smartphones/ Instagram

Uploading files/ Camera RAW/ PhotoShop/ Lightroom/ Bridge etc.../ Metadata/ Actions/ Filters/ Levels/ HUE/ Blacks and Whites/ Clarity/ Resizing etc...

(Affordability) : print / digital / magazines / newspapers/ catalogues / lookbooks (print / online) / instore ads / internet / billboards / internet ads (eg FB) / blogs / brand wesbites / smartphones/ apps / Instagram / Twitter / Facebook / Newsletters (print / digital) / e-mail etc

Audience widens
"Photography has followed the move of the fashion industry from the salon to the street. It relies and thrives on change, not only through advances in technology, but more importantly, through countless shifting cultural social practices and economic forces that drive the effort to sell clothes"

Susan Kismaric + Eva Respiri, 'Fashioning Fiction in Photography Since 1990'
"Fashion photography is best understood as a set of shifting practices" - Margaret Maynard
Larry Sultan - Pictures From Home
Terry Richardson
Larry Sultan - "Visiting Tennessee" (Kate Spade’s Autumn/Winter Published 2002)
1943-1972(Published 1992)
Helmut Newton
1961, Beautiful Beast Looks
2013, Miley Cyrus
Terry Richardson
Group Discussion


"aestheticising social issues is an effective way of reinforcing audience passivity and dulling seriousness of events"

"beauty is to call to admiration, not action"

(Ingrid Sischy, 'Good Intentions' - The New Yorker, 09.09.1991 p 92)
"The greatest fashion photography is more than the photography of fashion."

-The Avedon Eye. Vogue December, 1978 pp104-7 - Susan Sontag
The Fashion System – Roland Barthes
The Ardon Eye – Susan Sontag
Fashion As Photograph - Eugenie Shinkle
Appearances - Martin Harrison
'Good Intentions' - The New Yorker, 09.09.1991 p 92 - Ingrid Sischy


Director: Matthew Williams
Art Director: Shayne Oliver
Stylist: Tom Guinness
Editor: Nathan Brown
Hair: Fernando Torrent for Rene Furterer (L'Atelier NYC)
Grooming: Jenai Chin (Artists by Next), Laura De Leon (Joe Management)
Models: Aiden Andrews (Ford NY), Taejahn Taylor (Re:Quest)
Director of Photography: Santiago Gonzalez
Stylist Assistants: Julia Wagner
Grooming Assistant: Chris Oliveira
Props: The Specialist Ltd
Production: Heather Fitzgerald/Clyde Creative, Antonio Rodriguez
Location: Cousins Paintball, New Windsor, NY
Post Production: Industrial Color
SHOWstudio is proud to release HOOD BY AIR, a new film by Matthew Williams that shows off the latest looks from the label. Hood by Air founder and designer Shayne Oliver's Spring/Summer 2013 collection confidently challenges the conventions of menswear by incorporating unique styling choices from Tom Guinness.
Reading List/ Resources
Books / Journals / Essays
Stylistic Analysis
Sexuality and Desire
Feminist Studies
Sociohistorical Readings
Semiological Readings
-Questionable part fashion photography plays in the construction of feminine identity -
Eugenie Shinkle, Fashion as Photograph

-"Publicity feeds off envy, exploits women and increasingly uses sexuality 'to sell any product or service" -
John Berger, Ways of Seeing
Fashion Photography occupies position of enormous influence in our culture, mirroring ideals, vanities, ambitions, desires

- It has, in many ways, defined the way we wish to see ourselves, allowing people to make non-verbal judgement on others, simply down to what they're wearing – stereotypes we’ve created within society… conflicting ideas about what is socially acceptable.
(Martin Harrison)
"As part of 'democratic revolution', fashion was a metaphor for the advent of modern democratic society and its growing cult of individuality, personal freedom and choice" -

"our era prefers the image to the thing, the copy to the original, the representation to the reality, appearance to being." -
- "All the visible universe is nothing but a shop of images & signs"
Baudelaire, 1850s

- "society of the spectacle" -- "In societies where modern conditions of production prevail, all of life presents itself as an immense accumulation of spectacles. Everything that was directly lived has moved away into representation'
Guy Debord, 1994

- Fashion Photography is not just any photo, it bears little relation to the news photo, as to the snapshot, eg it has its own units and rule. Within photo-communication, it forms a specific lang which no doubt has iits own lexicon and syntax, its own banned or approved 'turns of phrase'" -
Roland Barthes, The Fashion System

- "Fashion photography demonstrably has a place in the analysis of the sign-language of dress and a direct relationship with the diverse codes reflected in the ways in which our bodies are presented, and represented."
Martin Harrison, Appearances

-BERGER: Fashion photography condemns appropriation of modern photography styles by consumer capitalism

- MARGARET MAYNARD- meaning of fashion photography is dependent on network of influences
- metaphor or ecology used to examine how look and meaning of fashion image are less the result of an individual vision than the product of set of dynamically interacting internal and external variables surrounding production, publication and circulation
- continually reframed by outside factors
Q: So what does this type of journalism mean for the photographer?
Q: What is the future of fashion photography in a society where print media is rapidly decreasing?
"All the world's a stage, And all the men and women merely players;
They have their exits and their entrances, And one man in his time plays many parts, His acts being seven ages."

Shakespeare, As You Like It
Piazza di Spagna (Rome),1960
(brand driven)
(driven by publication - more creative scope)
Full transcript