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Fashion, Textiles, Sustainability and Creativity

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helga haiste

on 18 December 2014

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Transcript of Fashion, Textiles, Sustainability and Creativity

- action to achieve social or political ends
Autumn Winter 2013/14 Catwalk
ADA ZANDITON
> Li Xiaofeng
> Beijing artist
> sews shards of porcelain onto a leather undergarment
> J.W. Anderson
> London
www.j-w-anderson.com
HUMAN HAIR
TEXTILES IN FOCUS
EXTRAORDINARY TEXTILES
- Sebastian Errazuriz
"12 Shoes for 12 Lovers"
3D Printing
SUSTAINABLE FASHION?
Eco
Green
Fairtrade
Ethical
Responsible
Conscious
SUSTAINABILITY?
UPCYCLING
NEW USAGE
Materials are
re-worked
into something
more valuable
TRANSFORMING FASHION PRODUCTS
MATERIALS
^ RENEWABLE FIBRES
^ BIODEGRADABLE FIBRES
^ PEOPLE FRIENDLY FIBRES (FAIRTRADE)
--- strike the critical balance between speed of harvesting and speed of replenishment
RENEWABLE
^ LOW-CHEMICAL-USE FIBRES
^ LOW-ENERGY-USE FIBRES
^ LOW-WATER-USE FIBRES
PROCESS
DISTRIBUTION
CONSUMER CARE
DISPOSAL
TRANSFORMING FASHION SYSTEMS
TRANSFORMING FASHION DESIGN PRACTICE
LOW-IMPACT USE
BIOMIMICRY
OPTIMIZED LIFETIMES
SERVICES & SHARING
ADAPTABILITY
LOCAL
SPEED
NEEDS
ENGAGED
^ PREDATOR FRIENDLY
1989
2008
Formerly one of the four largest lakes in the world with an area of 68,000 square kilometers
ARAL SEA
Uzbekistan
^ Working closer to nature
^ Low-chemical bleeching
^ Low-chemical dyeing
^ Colour without dyeing
^ Just & fair labour in cut & sew
^ Carbon offsets
^ Transportation systems & logistics
(1% - 55% of a products carbon footprint)
^ Care Labels
^ Low-energy wash & dry
^ Slowing the flow of materials
^ Reconditioning
^ Recycling
^ Multifunctional
^ Trans-seasonal
^ Modular
^ Consumer behaviour
^ Design for low launder
^ Design to stain
^ Low iron
^ Design for wrinkles
^ Repair services
^ Design for repair
^ Leasing systems
^ Design services
^ Open Source Design
^ Wardrobe Overall (Upcycling on mass)
^ Local materials
^ Designing for local culture
^ Designing with local artisans
Glocalization is a term denoting the adaptation of a product or service specifically to each locality or culture in which it is sold. It is similar to internationalization. The term “glocalization” is a newly coined blend of globalization and localization refers to a concept to describe individual, group, organization, product or service that reflects not only global standard but also local one.
^ Glocal
^ Co- designed
^ Crowd sourced
www.slaveryfootprint.org
^ Minimum
waste
in cut
& sew
LIVING WAGE vs MINIMUM WAGE
^ Reuse
^ Designer as communicator-educator
^ Designer as facilitator
^ Designer as activist
^ Designer as entrepreneur
- new models of commercial practice - systemic innovation
- speak to comsumers as active citizens
- envisioning change, organising it and enabling it
Nature as a MODEL
- where nature is imitated
Nature as a MEASURE
- where nature is used as an ecological standard
Nature as a MENTOR
- where nature is viewed and valued in a new way - what can we learn from it.
^ connectedness
^ breaking out of siloed patterns of practice
^ physical and emotional durability
AVERAGE NATURAL FIBRE
PRODUCTION (kg)
PER HECTARE
COTTON: 300 - 1100
FLAX: 800 - 1150
Hemp: 1200 - 2000
Wool: 62
LIFE-CYCLE
ANALYSIS
Quality items that stand the test of time ... a timeless handbag that you wear again and again, and can pass on ...
- Frida Giannini, Creative Director of Gucci
SUSTAINABLE FASHION ?
SUSTAINABLE FASHION ?
SUSTAINABLE FASHION ?
SUSTAINABLE FASHION ?
A commitment to the traditional techniques, and not just the art, of making clothes. I work today in the same way that I first learnt in the ateliers of Balenciaga and Lanvin 50 years ago ... clothes that are not only beautiful but extremely well made. - Oscar de la Renta
Locally sourced materials that don't pollute in their creation or demise (preferably recycled) and with limited transportation to achieve the completed product. - Anya Hindmarch
Sustainable fashion is a contradiction in terms. It refers to how the fabric used for a new garment has been produced ... I believe, we need to consider this issue from a more macro and profound perspective. Though a cotton may be unbleached, we need to examine how it arrives to the manufacturer or to us the wearer. What was the 'carbon imprint' of its delivery, for example? - Dries van Noten
www.ethicalfashionforum.com
Iris Van Herpen and Oxman's ensemble was the product of Stratsys's "Objet Connex" multimaterial 3D-printing technology, which the company says allows a variety of material properties—both hard and soft—to be produced in a single build.
Dita Von Teese shows off her 3D printed dress, by Bitonti and Schmidt. Courtesy of Albert Sanchez. March 2013
“You never change things by fighting the existing reality. To change something, build a new model that makes the existing model obsolete.”
Richard Buckminster Fuller
American architect (1895 – 1983)
>to regain or recover (vigour, strength, etc)
> to restore to a new or fresh condition
> to replace (an old or worn-out part or piece)
> to replenish (a supply, etc)
^ Natural Dyes
TEXTILES, FASHION, SUSTAINABILITY
SOLUTIONS ??
TRANSFORMING FASHION PRODUCTS
TRANSFORMING FASHION SYSTEMS
TRANSFORMING FASHION DESIGN PRACTICE
MATERIALS
PROCESS
DISTRIBUTION
CONSUMER CARE
DISPOSAL
ADAPTABILITY
OPTIMIZED LIFETIMES
LOW-IMPACT USE
SERVICES & SHARING
LOCAL
BIOMIMICRY
SPEED
NEEDS
ENGAGED
communicator-educator
facilitator
activist
entrepreneur
X
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