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History of Italian fashion
Transcript of History of Italian fashion
- France was known as fashion homeland: Vionnet, Chanel, Dior, newest trends, haute couture.....
- Italian garment production was concentrated on small taylor's shop, basically copying France couturier style
Fascism, the autarchy regime, forced to use any kind of Italian raw material to produce garments or shoes.
After the Second World War, Italy was completely destroyed and really poor.
-In the past, economy was based on farming and handscrafts
-Garment and accessories production was badly organized but at the same time enormously flexible
1947 the new Italian Reinassance
After supplying food and raw material as first aid, US carry on the European Recovery Plan, known as Marshall Plan:
money, equipment and a huge production modernisation could help Europe to recover after War
Fortune magazine dedicate a huge article to Italy: one of the poorest European country with point of excellence : the 'fine Italian hands'.
Same did Vogue US pointing out:
There're 3 exciting things about italian fashion today
- Italy is able to produce garments that suit Americans, specially sportswear, leisurewear, total looks, funny accessories and so on
- Italian fabrics are superb
- Italian has beautiful evening dresses produced at a reasonable price
Sartoria Alta Moda and Craftsmanship
What Italy could offer to Us compare to the country need was secondary that's why seem that the Us interest on Italy was mainly a political decision, to have a pay back of the Us investments in Europe.
Italian fashion was mainly made by Sartorie ( taylor's shops ) or small handscraft shops
The mass production typical of USA dep. store was unknow.
1952 save the date!
Italian fashion was hitting Us costs through buying offices or direct sales, as Gucci or Ferragamo
Giovanni Battista Giorgini, owner of a buying office located in Florence was working for major department stores: lingerie, hats, ceramics, accessories the items he was manily searching in Italy to US customers.
Beeing a market expert, he knew the time was mature to propose a total look to his customers base
The first fashion show in his Villa on Fiesole hills was a huge success.
Then the next was at Pitti Palace : the magnificent Sala Bianca was crowed: journalist, big buyers, customers they could look closely beautiful creations in a extraordinary surrounding.
LIKE A MOVIE STAR !
Not only article on the magazines, Italy become famous and actractive to the USA and other foreign mrkts throught movies.
The studios of Cinecittà in Rome were the set for historical movies like Ben Hur or Quo Vadis.
Audrey Hepburn in Vacanze Romane showed Rome as the dreamest and most romantic city in the world
At the same time famous American and international actors, filmmakers and director spend lot of time in Italy, enjoying life style, food and clothes
Sorelle Fontana open their sartoria in Rome 1938.
- Their style was classical, chic, feminine characterized by
- 1949 Linda Christian, future wife of Tayron Powell bought is gown for 700.000ITL
Audrey Hepburn ....
Born in 1898, Bonito near Avellino, in a poor family
He produce his first pair of shoes at age of 8 for his sisters
at 14 he open his shop in Bonito
1814 he emigrates in USA, Boston, where his brother was living.
Unhappy about his working he decide to move to Santa Barbara, where he open a small shop.
Salvatore start to repair shoes and to make shoes for the studios
1927 he return to Italy he started to produce shoes and sell them to the USA..........
Born in Reggio Calabria, a region influenced by the hellenic myths was working in his mother atelier until he moved to Milan.
1976 after few experiences in several fashion companies, in patnership with Santo, his brother found his business
1978 first collection showed in Milan
His symbol , the Medusa, and his unique style, a mix between greek influences, baroque, pop art, catched fashion journalist and customers attention all over the world.
Innovative, provocative, colorful, Versace loves to use prints, animalier, artistic, geometrical
and to mix materials jersey fabric, stretch, printed and polished leather, metallic knit, latex
Accessories are so important to be a part of the outfit: plastic, metal, golden touch; keyword excessive.
Supermodels : as important as the garments
In 1992 his collection 'bondage' was considered outrageous
His famous customers Elton John, George Michael, Madonna, Lady Diana
FASHION TRENDS MOVE AROUND
1960-1970 while Italian fashion is getting well known and becoming a synonym of classical-beautiful- good quality, fashion started to move to a new customer target: young people.
Certainly, in the 50's too, young and teens expressed themselves wearing specific garments, ex. denim, leather jackets, or college preppy look, but in the 60's a huge revolution took place specially in USA and UK
CIVIL RIGHTS, EAST & WEST, VIETNAM WAR HIPPIES.... the conflict within generations was stated also with revolutionary outfits
Fashion trend moved to London and to USA, new designer
Music become a universal language for young people allover the world and with his message spread around a common way of dressing too.
KING GIORGIO ARMANI,
Born in 1936, he worked as merchandiser and buyer for a major Italian dep. store La Rinascente in Milan. 1969 even not having a designer background he become designer for Cerruti.
Fhereafter he worked as freelancer for several company untill he and his partner Sergio Galeotti established in 1975 his enterprise.
Now he owns several brand: Armani , Armani casa, Armani Exhange
Armani Privè, restaurants ad hotels
The unstructured jacket for women and men is is must.
Using classical fine wollen fabrics, gabardine, pinstripes... he got a new exclusive look to a formal outfit.
Colors choosen from an
greysh-beige palette make
his clothes timeless.
Valentino born in Vogera at 16 moved to Paris, here he went to the fashion school Chambre Sindacale de la Couture, later began his career at Desses.
1955 worked for Guy Laroche
1957 back to Italy open his first atelier
1962 success came with his fashion show at Palazzo Pitti, where international buyers and journalists state his talent.
International jey set loved his clothes, but the most influent friendship, which will help to bouild his career is the one with Jaqueline Kennedy Onassis
feminine, elegant, classical , Valentino style is recognizable to fit perfect and henance the female body.
The colour red we identify as red Valentino come from an lyric opera that Valentino saw in Paris, become a must in every collection
Flower prints, animalier, solid colours, plisse and transparency was used magistrally in all his collections
The company was managed by Giancarlo Giammetti, his partner. Business was developed further adding male and accessories.
Significant economical problems oblige to sell part of the shares to Marzotto Group, and 2007 all the business. After 40 year of career he stop designing for his company.