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Alek Koundakjian

on 18 March 2013

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Transcript of Fashion

"In difficult times, fashion is always outrageous."
-Elsa Schiaperelli without a doubt the fashion designer of the 1930's was elsa schiaparelli. she dominated france and The 1920's fashion
scene: It's A WOMAN'S world! Hollywood Glam Hollywood was advantageous for the assertion of American fashion into world recognition. Signature fashion choices held esteem with MGM's Gilbert Adrian, the head costume designer. Figures like Louise Brooks distinguished the black helmet bob cut and flapper apparel, the trendsetters for women the the 20's. Rudolph Valentino amazed the world with avant-garde accents including baggy gaucho pants, wrist watches for men, jeweled cuff links, and to never leave home without a hat. Fashion is not something that exists in dresses only. Fashion is in the sky, in the street, fashion has to do with ideas, the way we live, what is happening.
- Coco Chanel Jeanne Lanvin Started out as a milliner but made dresses for her daughter. She gained popularity when people recognized her daughter’s dresses. She reached her peak in success in the 1920s. Floral colors became her trade mar. Jeanne brought elaborate decorations and embroideries into style. Lanvin’s style was not limited to just women’s evening wear. Its influence reached into lingerie, sportswear, and men’s fashion. Jean Patou Jean Patou was a French designer whose career was interrupted by the war. His early bathing suits and his elegant embroidered and beaded “princess line” evening dresses were often worn with fur trimmed capes, defining luxury during that time. He dressed actresses such as; Constance Bennet, Louis Brooks, Josephine Baker, the Dolly sisters, and aristocrats from all over Europe, including the duchess Maria Pavlovna. During this time, America looked to Europe for the cutting edge in fashion, therefore his influence, though having French roots, stretched into America. Children's Fashion 1920s Silhouette The Flapper Bras, Bras, Bras! The Symington Side Lacer was the go-to bra for a boyish figure with a reinforced bust bodice. Side lacing meant that it flattened the bust when laced tightly. Soon the word brassière was abandoned for bra and ever since in fashion history it has been referred to as the bra. Men's fashion reflected the decadence and abundance of the 1920's. Sportswear came into vogue, but there was still a separation between daytime fashion and more formal evening wear. Tailcoats and top hats were the choice for night, while loose trousers and sweaters were popular sporty looks during the day. Men looked dapper even when not attired in formal wear. White button-down shirts with a V-necked sweater or Fair Isle sweater were commonly worn with bow ties. The "'yachting look" also become popular. Whether dressed formally or casually, footwear was given a fair amount of consideration. Black patent leather shoes were quite popular, while two-toned oxford saddle shoes were worn for more casual occasions. Men of all ages still adorned hats, from the casual boater to the fedora. Men's Class Children's attire reached growing levels of freedom in the 1920's. Comfort embodied both style and fabric. For decades, everyone had worn many layers to an outfit, but now a single summer outfit may consist of a single layer over underwear. Wool dresses with a knitted sweater and jacket was a common sight. Girls reaped the most out of the new fashions. Dresses shortened, and so did their hair. Childhood marked the innocence of the 20's, with clothes not so revealing as the older sister's. The 1920′s began with the disappearance of the female silhouette altogether ! Womenswear became more mannish, waist was gone, bust was gone, shoulders were broader and hair much shorter. The silhouette emphasised a flat chest and any womanly curves were eliminated as the line became more simplified. The infamous Symington Side Lacer became briefly popular and in effect, this was a bra that could be laced at both sides and in to flatten a woman's chest. The aim was to look boyish. Corsets gave way to Latex girdles and cami-bockers – directoire knickers with a chemise – among young women during the Roaring Twenties. Flappers did not truly emerge until 1926. Flapper fashion embraced all things and styles modern. A fashionable flapper had short sleek hair, a shorter than average shapeless shift dress, a chest as flat as a board, wore make up and applied it in public, smoked with a long cigarette holder, exposed her limbs and epitomised the spirit of a reckless rebel who danced the nights away in the Jazz Age. •The Annette Kellerman
After visiting America from Australia at the turn of the century, she marketed a line of bathing suits and her style of one-piece suits came to be known as "the Annette Kellerman." The Annette Kellerman was considered the most offensive style of swimsuit in the 1920s and became the focus of censorship efforts
•During this time swimsuits were mostly made of wool, most likely for its natural ability to absorb moisture. As the day progressed after being in the water, the swimsuit would stretch and get longer. Swimwear •the “beach censor”
In the 1920s a person would patrol the beach and took up the primary task of ensuring morality amongst the shoreline as America went swimming.
•Sigmund Freud fueled a movement of sexual liberation of both women and men in mainstream society. He was driven by understanding the impulses and desires that coursed through both sexes.
•Women gained a greater role in middle-class society with attendance in colleges and universities. The co-ed era was rising.
•Equality of minorities and homosexuals increased in urban areas during the 1920s as media coverage of those demographics increased. Morality Police The Hairdryer Prior to the 1920s, women would dry their hair using the vacuum cleaner and other household supplies. However in 1920, life got a little easier when the hair dryer was invented. The first hand-held hair dryer was put on the market in 1920. Unlike modern hair dryers, the first hand-held hair dryer was big, bulky and frequently overheated. Capable of producing only 100 watts of heat, the first hand-held hair dryer was not able to dry hair very quickly. Hats and Hair Hair was first bobbed, then shingled, then Eton cropped in 1926-7. An Eton crop was considered daring and shocked some older citizens, since hair had always been thought a woman's crowning glory.Women wore cloche hats throughout the twenties. A cloche hat told everyone that you had short hair. It was only possible to get a close fitting cloche on the skull if the hair was cropped short and flat. The cloche hat affected body posture as it was pulled well over the eyes which meant young women held their heads at a specific angle in order to see where they were going. Foreheads were unfashionable in the 1920s. Makeup After years of not wearing makeup, it was finally making a comeback. It became the norm for women to embrace makeup in the eye of the public. Instead of running off to the powder room, women would pull out their compacts and would apply lipstick and powder in view of everyone in the restaurant, nightclub, or tearoom. Women swore by Ox blood lipstick but rouge was used sparingly. Helena Rubenstein and Elizabeth Arden were developing cleansing creams, lotions, and creams to protect faces from the sun. Rubenstein went on to develop face powders and lipstick still makeup was worn less in the twenties because the boyish silhouette demanded youth and naturalness. Textiles Cotton and wool were the abundant fabrics of the decade. Silk was highly desired for its luxurious qualities, but the limited supply made it expensive. In 1891, "artificial silk" was first made from a solution of cellulose in France. After being patented in the United States, the first American plant began production of this new fabric in 1910. In 1924 this fiber became known as rayon. Rayon stockings became popular in the 1920s as a substitute for silk stockings. Rayon was also used in undergarments. Shoes! During the 20's, women's shoes became lighter and finer, adding delightful pointed toes and straps. Bar shoes allowed women to walk with style while still maintaining a stable step on the dance floor. In the 20's, the strap was the cat's meow
For men, black patent-leather shoes appeared with formal evening wear and attire. With casual clothes, two-tone combinations of white and tan, or white and black shoes popularized. Fringed tongues on Oxfords and brogues, or wingtips added zing to a man's attire, a key note of the jazz age. Fashion-Era.com, Pauline Weston Thomas for. "1920s Icons Movie Stars Greta Garbo Louise Brooks Royals ." Fashion History Costume Trends and Eras, Trends Victorians - Haute Couture. N.p., n.d. Web. 18 Mar. 2013. <http://www.fashion-era.com/1920s/fashion_icons_1920s.htm>.

Fashion-Era.com, Pauline Weston Thomas for. "Costume History Silhouettes 1920-1921 Free Line Drawings." Fashion History Costume Trends and Eras, Trends Victorians - Haute Couture. N.p., n.d. Web. 18 Mar. 2013. <http://www.fashion-era.com/C20th_costume_history/1920_silhouettes_1.htm>.

"Head Over Heels - 1920s." Head Over Heels. N.p., n.d. Web. 18 Mar. 2013. <http://www.headoverheelshistory.com/1920.html

"Flappers and the Roaring 20's - www." www. N.p., n.d. Web. 18 Mar. 2013. <http://www.thedandy.org/home/flappers-and-the-roaring-20-s>.

"What Happened in the 1920s inc. News, Popular Culture, Prices and Technology." Where People, History and Memories Join Together from The People History Site. N.p., n.d. Web. 18 Mar. 2013. <http://www.thepeoplehistory.com/1920s
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