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Manue Monnoyeur

on 14 January 2016

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Transcript of Perfume

Perfume habits between
France and Japan

History in France

The Middle Age
Classical Age and
Age of Enlightment
1789-1850/ 1850-1900
Cultural-economic part
of French women put perfume everyday
phenomenon less marked with men
A spectacular turnover
The perfume attracts
In France: a marketing target
every year turnover is about
16 billion
euros (importations included). France does not know relocation
A fragrance needs:
market studies
determination of the consumer

New perfumes do not stop to rise!
But the most popular ones do not need any media help because of the
customer loyalty
A cultural legacy
technological advances
the image and culture inherited by the Renaissance and cultivated in
since the Second Empire
French industry -> dominant position with
of the shares of world markets.

The export rate of perfumes:
2nd exporting
sector in the French economy.

Advertising expenditures:
of the total sector turnover, almost 1/4 total advertising expenditures of the French industry.


- Egyptians and Greek burn aromatic essences
- In Latin: “Per Fumum” (“by the smoke”)
- Introduced with Cleopatra who used in ointments or scented baths

- Discovery of ethyl alcohol
- Pomanders filled of amber, musk or plant
- Plants and trees used to protect against epidemics raging
* What is our goal?
Compare French and Japanese cultures

- Sailors bring new scented products from America and India
- Chemistry improves the quality of gasoline
- Queens and courtesans were passionate about perfume which was spread in France by Catherine de Medici
- First apothecaries and perfumers move from Italy to Grasse

* How to compare?
Study history, cultural habits, economy, as well as advertisement
*Comparative point
Wearing perfume in France vs in Japan
Why perfume?

- Using perfume in order to mask body pestilence.
- coquetry and affectation impose cosmetics and perfumers.
- Rediscovering hygiene, recognition of perfumers under Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette

- Napoleon and Josephine Bonaparte, great fans of fragrances
-Birth of the Handkerchief
-Massive industrialization = Beginning of organic chemistry
-Laboratories synthesized molecules
-Cheap glass bottles were produced by large factories
-First major brands appeared, development of famous houses (Guerlain, Houbigant, Piver…)

In France people wear perfume everyday
Japanese people don't use perfume but softeners
What are we going
to focus on?
Fragrance History in Japan
Incense with Buddhist

- Buddhism from China in the 6th century
- Incense for 10 effects
- Use for Buddhist rite, meditation,
pray for ancestors
- 14th century, incense burning
- Entertainment for wealthier group
- Ritsukoku
Cosmetic Fragrance

- Aroma cosmetic hair oil in 1650
= first idea to
wear a scent

- Mister perfume import in 1872

- Temporary success thanks to Westernization, but the popularity didn't last

Why not attractive?

Bathing culture
since the 5th century

- Taking a bath during French Renaissance

- Japanese people have
less body odor


Apocrine sweat glands
causes body odor

- ABCC11 genes have 2 types
Allele A
Allele G

Allele G
has more active Apoctine sweat glands

Allele A
has fewer of them

Perfume now

- Perfumes can be purchased anywhere
- Hardly adjust the custom to find their own representative fragrance
- 25% of Japanese people
feel sick
about the perfume scent
- 52.9% of Japanese people
have never wear
perfume fragrance

- Fragrance in Japan in 2012
only 42 billion yen (314 million euro) sales

- perfume share in the cosmetics market is no more than about 4 percent

- scented fabric softeners as a replacement for perfumes

- Japan’s softeners market grew from 62.6 billion yen (465 million euro) in 2008 to 78.7 billion yen (588 million euro) in 2012

Fabric softner
P&G: Lenor Happiness
2 different scents in 1 softener
Kao: Flare Fragrance
sensitive to sweat
In France when talking about fragrance we think perfume, In Japan, we think clothes and hair fragrance.
Quick sum-up
French advertising for perfumes
Promoted by

Important media coverage
: magazines, television, newspapers, on the Internet, street banners, etc.

In France, advertisements
aim to seduce and fascinate

Sexuality, sensuality, romance

Nudity & gender stereotypes
Lion: Soflan
deodorant and fragrance
Evolution of the advertisements
Chanel No.5 ad in the 1950s
Chanel No.5 ad in the 1990s
Chanel No. 5 ad in 2014
Chanel No. 5
Fragrance economy
in Japan
Ads for perfume in Japan
- less perfume demand on behalf of the consumers = less advertisements

- no TV commercials

- Short films on the home website

- Some posters can be seen in stations
Ads for softener in Japan
- TV commercial (30 sec)
with trendy actor/actress,
vivid or pop colors,
many images of scent,
cheerful music

- aim to tell the function of softeners

- target families
Kao: No.1 company advertised on TV
P&D: 5th at the same time

For sure that Flare Fragrance from Kao and Lenor Happiness from P&D
won massive opportunities to be advertised on TV
With all those elements on perfume, such as history, culture and economy, we could study the differences between French and Japanese cultures.
Most of all, to see what influence culture had, advertisement was a good revealing element.
Advertise on TV
in October in 2015
Summary of History

from Egypt and Greece

Perfume to conceal
body odor

Custom to Business

for Buddhism
from China

Less body odor for bathing and genes

No custom No business
To sum up...
Advertising for perfume is
everywhere, strong media coverage

Very few advertisements
, only posters for perfumes. Instead : advertisements for softeners
Message conveyed: perfume make you more sexually attractive
Target : men and women
Target : families
use of pop colors,
many images of scent,
cheerful music
Romantic atmosphere and music
Softeners make you smell and feel good
Full transcript