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Louise Delvo Ü

on 2 April 2014

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Transcript of Fashion

Ramon Valera produced a single piece of clothing from a four-piece ensemble consisting of a blouse, skirt, overskirt, and long scarf.

He unified the components of the baro't saya into a single dress with exaggerated bell sleeves, cinched at the waist, grazing the ankle, and zipped up at the back.

Using zipper in place of hooks was already a radical change for the country's elite then. Dropping the panuelo--the long folded scarf hanging down the chest, thus serving as the Filipina's gesture of modesty--from the entire ensemble became a bigger shock for the women then.

Valera constructed the terno's butterfly sleeves, giving them a solid, built-in but hidden support. To the world, the butterfly sleeves became the terno's defining feature.
Issey Miyake is a Japanese fashion designer. In the late 1980s, he began to experiment with new methods of pleating that would allow both flexibility of movement for the wearer as well as ease of care and production. In which the garments are cut and sewn first, then sandwiched between layers of paper and fed into a heat press, where they are pleated. The fabric's 'memory' holds the pleats and when the garments are liberated from their paper cocoon, they are ready-to wear.
The first fashion designer who was not merely a dressmaker was Charles Frederick Worth (1825 - 1895). He was an English fashion designer whose works were produced in Paris and who is widely considered the Father of Haute couture.
Elements of Fashion
Ways of Seeing
by John Berger
is a general term for a popular style or practice, it refers to a distinctive and often habitual trend in the style in which a person dresses or to prevailing styles in behavior.
Trisha Louise Caribe A. Delvo
is a short commentary that seems to be about how different classes of people perceive art, how its meaning has changed through the ages, and how the introduction of technology has affected it. Berger seems to be an extremely controversial art critic, based off opinions of him.
There is fashion because as humans we like to look aesthetically pleasing, we are caught up with the trends that are in and what is fashionable and which is a fashionable don't. Its something humans never lived without even from the beginning of time people have clothed themselves although not necessarily to look good but because of necessities of their environments.
For Berger, there are two important elements to this story.

Firstly, having eaten the apple they see each other in a different way, so nakedness was in the eye of the beholder.

Secondly, the woman is blamed and made subservient to the man by way of punishment.
Renaissance art stresses to moment of initial shame in which Adam and Eve cover themselves with fig leaves, but Berger notes how their shame is from a third observer, not from each other.
Eve's embarrassment is retained in late secular art with the woman's awareness for the fact that she is being gazed at.

She is not naked for herself; she is naked as the viewer sees her.
Woman was destined to take care of the man. He argues that as a result the woman is always self-conscious, always aware of her own presence in every action she performs.

Artistic Expression

Case Studies
Ways of Seeing
by John Berger
by Ramon Valera
by Issey Miyake
He was the Dean of Philippine Fashion as he was a creative innovator.
He was born on August 31, 1912
Since his youth, he had been a natural in fashion design.
His mother, Pilar Oswald noticed that the dolls displayed on the piano would suddenly have new clothes.
He died in 1972 at the age of 59.
He is a Japanese designer
Born on April 22, 1938 in Hiroshima, Japan
He studied at the Tama Art University in Tokyo during which time he assembled his first fashion collection, which he named "The Poem of Material and Stone"
In all European nude paintings the woman is aware of being seen by a spectator.

The nude subject paints the female subject with a mirror in her hand as a symbol of her vanity.
Fashion Terms

Classic - styles that remain in fashion for years.

Fad - a style or design that gains and loses its popularity within a brief period of time

- edge or outline of the garments
- divide the shape with in the garment

Vertical Lines - increased height effects
Horizontal Lines - make you look fatter
Curved Lines - rhythmic and feminine nature
Diagonal Lines - active and sportive illusion


- Form or silhouette of a garment
- Can reveal or hide a natural body contour
- Try to flatter good features and hide less attractive features

Full, wide shapes make you look bigger
Trim, compact silhouettes make you look smaller
Straight, tubular shapes make you look taller


- Roughness, smoothness, dullness, glossiness, stiffness, softness

Bulky fabrics
- Add visual size (make you look bigger)
- Can disguise a flaw
- Can overpower a small person

Smooth, flat textures
- Make you look smaller

Shiny textures
- Make you look fit

Dull Textures
- Make you look smaller, as the absorb light


- it can make us cheerful or depressed
- it can be stimulating or relaxing
- it can create feeling of warm or cooling
- it plays tricks with size and distance

Neutral colors - can be worn with anything, making them good wardrobe-building colors.
Dark colors - can make a person look thinner and thus look taller.
Nude or Naked?
Through the story of Adam and Eve, John Berger explores the origins of being naked and what it means to be nude, looking at the frequently painted 'moment of shame' in the Renaissance period.
John Berger uses various versions of Susanna & the Elders and the Judgement of Paris to illustrate how man's desire paints the nude then blames this on the vanity of the woman.
"Being naked is simply to be without clothes. It has nothing to do with art. The nude, on the other hand, is a form of art." - Kenneth Clark

But according to John Berger "To be naked is to be oneself. To be nude is to be seen naked by others and yet not recognized for oneself. A naked body has to be seen as an object in order to be a nude."
Types of Fashion
Haute Couture
high sewing/dressmaking
hand-made couture
customed fitted clothing
high quality and expensive

factory made clothing
sold in finished condition
made to standard sizes

Mass Market
caters for a wide range of customers
producing ready-to-wear garments using trends set by the famous names in fashion
often wait around a season to make sure a style is going to catch on before producing their own versions of the original look
"Don’t be into trends. Don’t make fashion own you, but you decide what you are, what you want to express by the way you dress and the way you live."
— Gianni Versace
In the traditional European oil painting

What does gets painted is a result of what appeals to him sexually.

Therefore a woman’s body hair and fat dimples is never painted, since it is not sexually appealing to the painter.

Usually a man is painting a naked woman for his own enjoyment and pleasure.
In contrast, non-European traditions

(Indian, Persian, African, and Pre-Columbian art)

The nakedness of the woman is rarely portrayed in a passive way.

Nakedness usual portrays mutual sexual attraction amongst a couple and the woman is shown to be just as active as the man.
These unequal relations between men and women are, in Berger's view, deeply assimilated in our culture and in the consciousness of women who do to themselves what men do to them –objectify themselves.
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