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Waves

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by

Mark Van Arsdale

on 19 October 2016

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Transcript of Waves

Wave: The repeating and periodic disturbance that travels through a medium (e.g. water) from one location to another location.
Wave Height: The vertical distance between the highest (crest) and lowest (trough) parts of a wave.
Anatomy of a Wave
Wavelength: The distance from a certain point on one wave to the same point on the next wave (e.g. distance between 2 consecutive wave crests or between 2 consecutive wave troughs).
Wave crest: The highest part of a wave.
Wave trough: The lowest part of a wave.
What is a wave?
Waves don't move water, but move through water as kinetic energy. Water particles only travel in a small circle as a wave passes.
Quiz!
Swash: As waves break on shore, a churning froth of turbulent water, called swash, moves as a sheet up the slope of the beach toward shore.
Backwash: Once it runs out of energy, it flows back toward the surf zone, as backwash.
Erosion
swash and backwash meet
Depending on the strength of the surf, swash can scour sand, pebbles, and even rocks off the surface of the beach.
Waves
How do waves move?
What makes a wave grow?
1. How hard the wind blows (wind speed)
2. How far the wind blows (fetch)
3. How long the wind blows (wind duration)
What makes a wave break?
When the ratio of wave height to wavelength reaches 1/7
or when the depth causes the wave height to become 1.3 times the water depth
Two types of breaks
Long shore Drift
http://www.pbslearningmedia.org/asset/lsps07_int_waves/
Check this out
Caused by the interaction of...
How heavy is a large wave?
Full transcript