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# Waves

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by

## Mark Van Arsdale

on 24 October 2017

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#### Transcript of Waves

Wave: The repeating and periodic disturbance that travels through a medium (e.g. water) from one location to another location.
Wave Height: The vertical distance between the highest (crest) and lowest (trough) parts of a wave.
Anatomy of a Wave
Wavelength: The distance from a certain point on one wave to the same point on the next wave (e.g. distance between 2 consecutive wave crests or between 2 consecutive wave troughs).
Wave crest: The highest part of a wave.
Wave trough: The lowest part of a wave.
What is a wave?
Waves don't move water, but move through water as kinetic energy. Water particles only travel in a small circle as a wave passes.
Quiz!
Swash: As waves break on shore, turbulent water moves diagonally up the slope of the beach.
Backwash: Water flows back toward the surf zone drawn down by gravity.
Erosion
swash and backwash meet
Waves
How do waves move?
What makes a wave grow?
1. How hard the wind blows (wind speed)
2. How far the wind blows (fetch)
3. How long the wind blows (wind duration)
What makes a wave break?
When the ratio of wave height to wavelength reaches 1/7
or when the depth causes the wave height to become 1.3 times the water depth
Two types of breaks
Long shore Drift
http://www.pbslearningmedia.org/asset/lsps07_int_waves/
Check this out
Caused by the interaction of...
How heavy is a large wave?
Full transcript