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Mark Van Arsdale

on 24 October 2017

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Transcript of Waves

Wave: The repeating and periodic disturbance that travels through a medium (e.g. water) from one location to another location.
Wave Height: The vertical distance between the highest (crest) and lowest (trough) parts of a wave.
Anatomy of a Wave
Wavelength: The distance from a certain point on one wave to the same point on the next wave (e.g. distance between 2 consecutive wave crests or between 2 consecutive wave troughs).
Wave crest: The highest part of a wave.
Wave trough: The lowest part of a wave.
What is a wave?
Waves don't move water, but move through water as kinetic energy. Water particles only travel in a small circle as a wave passes.
Swash: As waves break on shore, turbulent water moves diagonally up the slope of the beach.
Backwash: Water flows back toward the surf zone drawn down by gravity.
swash and backwash meet
How do waves move?
What makes a wave grow?
1. How hard the wind blows (wind speed)
2. How far the wind blows (fetch)
3. How long the wind blows (wind duration)
What makes a wave break?
When the ratio of wave height to wavelength reaches 1/7
or when the depth causes the wave height to become 1.3 times the water depth
Two types of breaks
Long shore Drift
Check this out
Caused by the interaction of...
How heavy is a large wave?
Full transcript