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Transcript of Issey Miyake
‘What interest me is what I don’t yet know about.’ Beyond fashion Creation and Technology...
ISSEY MIYAKE INC.'s basic philosophy is the continuing focus on both the importance of imagination and the development of new technology in which to make clothing.
This design concept challenges the conventional idea of garment making and strives to highlight the relationship between body and cloth.
ISSEY MIYAKE INC. values free thinking that is unconventional - thinking that takes into consideration the spirit of creation, curiosity and love as a universal expression. Vision ‘ I have tried to create a style that is neither Japanese nor Western.’
‘The western tradition in clothing seemed to me to be too rigid. I wanted to create things that could be free, both mentally and physically.’
‘Western clothes are cut and shaped with the body as the starting point; Japanese clothes start with the fabric.’
Instead of choosing one or other of these approaches , Miyake has concentrated on the coexistence of the fabric and the body. They are linked by movement. Japanese V Western The ISSEY MIYAKE Collection is founded in the philosophy of clothing made from “a Piece of Cloth,” a concept which explores not only the relationship between the body and clothing, but also the space that is born between them. The philosophy has evolved and grown as have Miyake’s interests always founded in innovative clothing combined with modern research and development. Brand Philosophy 1971- February- The first "ISSEY MIYAKE" brand collection was launched by MIYAKE DESIGN STUDIO making it the first clothing company to ever originate in Japan.
The Collection made its debut in New York in 1971. Since the Autumn/Winter 1973 collection it has been shown in Paris. The ISSEY MIYAKE Men’s Collection was first presented as a section within Fall/Winter 1976 Women’s Collection; it has been shown as an independent line since 1978. Issey Miyake the brand V World of generation in search of
Freedom and progress, whose mood
Was reflected by the Beatles and Pop Art. Exclusive world
Of haute couture Moved to Paris, worked at Guy Laroche and Givenchy, but found himself caught in a life of contradictions.
Miyake was to create a style inspired by these contrasts. After graduating Miyake was born 22 April 1938 in Hiroshima, Japan.
He studied graphic design at the Tama Art University in Tokyo, graduating in 1964. Brief Background After returning to Japan in 1970 after a brief period working in New York City, Miyake launched his mainline brand for women in 1971, following with his menswear line seven years later.
In 1997 Miyake launched A-POC (acronym for ‘A Piece of Cloth’.) This was a revolutionary idea in which the consumer was able to buy tubular cuts of cloth, subsequently enabling them cut their own garments. Collections ‘Me’ Regardless of the fine detailing of the pleated fabrics, the polyester does not need ironing and can be washed and dried within minutes and retains shape and colour easily making it a highly wearable collection.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-K6_tAClXWA Pleats Please http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4gdxhNnytSs The Future of the Brand Based on the idea of 'self service', a very popular concept in Japan, Miyake took the idea of vending machines and translated it into a clothing line. Redefining the notion of shopping, ‘me’ enables the customer to have a direct interaction with the products they are purchasing. Displaying the clothes in a vending machine in transparent plastic tubes, the customer is able to check the shapes, textures and colour of the garment and try the product on in a fold out changing cubicle. This could link directly to the idea of ‘fast fashion’ and environmental fashion, as all packaging and materials are recyclable. After handing over many duties of his Fashion House in 1997, Miyake has spent recent years in developing new fabrics and design processes which are ecological yet stylish.
Miyake leads the ‘Reality Lab’, a young design team researching innovative methods of construction using new materials and design features.
132 5. ISSEY MIYAKE was launched in 2010 and shown at the Galerie Kreo on the Left Bank in Paris. The designs are created using one piece of fabric, a three-dimensional shape reduced to two dimensional, and the fifth dimension, which Miyake describes as when the garment is worn on the human body.
Instead of cutting and sewing, the fabric is folded with sharp, permanent creases like origami. When folded, the garments are pleasing flat round geometric shapes e.g stars and swirls. When unfolded, they become tubes that can be worn as day dresses, cocktail dresses or a long skirt. To make the tubes more versatile, Miyake has placed invisible snaps at key points so they wearer can change the shape of the garment with temporary darts or attach a pair of tubes together to create pants or a jacket with sleeves. Perhaps the most famous of Miyake’s collections, Pleats Please was first created in 1989 and was revolutionary in the way garments were constructed. Most material is pleated, cut and lastly constructed, however Miyake used high quality polyester, cutting his garments first (two-and-a-half to three times larger than intended) sewed them before finally pleating the fabric. The Kimono The underlying influences of the kimono bares significance to both Miyake and fellow japanese conceptual designers, Rei Kawakubo, Yohji Yamamoto. They agree that the that it is the space between the fabric and boy which is profound and neglects the blatant sexuality of western dress.
Miyake states “I learned about space between the body and the fabric from the traditional Kimono... not the style but the space” and therefore recontextualizes the Kimono for a different aesthetic balance. Miyake’s designs comment on space as an ideal, his constructions exemplify ideas of the body moving within a space beneath an outer space. Japanese Ideals Described as a ‘niche designer’ he focuses on the evolution and refinement of an idea/ideal, the basis of japanese design, which allows the change for progressions sake rather than the work of ‘stylist’ counterparts, who follow or initiate stylistic trends or directions. It could be argued that Miyake, along with other contemporary innovators Yamamoto and Kawakubo, offered a meaningful alternative to the superficial, regressive and over designed work of western designers from their disruption of western fashion ideals. Traditional Japanese mannerisms dictate how Issey Miyake works with others, through discipline and complete humility through the idea of Enryo - meaning a supreme void of ego that demonstrates complete dedication to the group and humility. By