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Transcript of Vintage Modernism
http://baike.baidu.com/view/1326625.htm References Miu Miu Valentino Louis Vuitton Spring 2013 Ready-to-wear
Designed by Marc Jacobs
Key words: Pop Art, 60’s, checks Louis Vuitton Louis Vuitton Louis Vuitton Christian Dior Christian Dior Europe Market
North American Market
South American Market
African Market The Division of International Market http://vimeo.com/43600763
http://www.glamourparis.com/beaute/hair-academy/diaporama/50-coiffures-retros-a-adopter/7159#le-bandeau-xxl References http://www.fashionising.com/trends/b--1950s-fashion-21727.html
Livingstone, M., Pop Art: A Continuing History, New York: Harry N. Abrams, Inc., 1990 References The Rebecca Oxford is a thoroughly modern shoe that exudes just a hint of vintage-inspired elegance.
With its chunky heel and concealed platform, the shoes present vintage-inspired elegance with an unmistakable modern twist. Finished in the soft hand-antiqued calfskin in light olive tones, it evokes a bygone era when style was synonymous with quality. The playful stenciling on the toe makes the oxford shoes even more elegant. 8) Rebecca Oxford Lucy Marshall’s Bridal Accessories Lucy Marshall’s Bridal Accessories
Lucy Marshall is particularly well known for their bridal headpieces and gloves, which take us back to the 20′s and 30′s and conjure up images of the grandeur and glamour of old hollywood in a very big way.
Lucy says "We have both always been inspired by the beauty of hand embroidery and beading. We wanted to create pieces of work that reflected the intricacy of traditional embroidery, but yet had a modern dimension to them.“ 7) Lucy Marshall Miu Miu On the runway the designer offered a study of the forties, right down to the models' matte red lips and the combs holding back their hair. With its striking views of Le Tour d'Eiffel, proved a fitting backdrop for a modern vintage collection that transported us back to World War II-era Paris.
Not like the common 40’s look: stockings with their bold-shouldered, inverted-triangle jackets, here bare legs put the show's glitter-dipped sandal booties with their curving heels in sharp relief. Dresses were slim, long-sleeved, and to-the-knee and came printed with birds or white flowers like lilies and daisies. Mink swagged the shoulders of little black dresses and, a bit more trickily, twisted around the hips of others. The models carried clutches that looked like blown-up versions of coin purses.
Afterward, this collection was said to be one of the designer's most elegant Miu Miu collections ever. Miu Miu Miu Miu Fall 2011 Ready-to-wear
Designed by Miuccia Prada
Key words: 40’s, elegant Miu Miu On the Jewellery Collection 2012, Miuccia Prada presented the vintage-inspired theme with a covetable selection of cameo necklaces for Miu Miu. Inspired by love tokens of days gone by, the line is featured in the spring/summer 2012 campaign..
Customers especially love the yellow graphic and black cameo necklace on a thick black ribbon.
Inspired by cameos, each piece is hand-crafted using the artisanal crafting techniques traditionally used to make the classic jewellery piece. Coloured plexi figures hang on velvet necklace straps, sit on chunky cuffs and hang from earrings - all accessorised with golden metal inlays. 6) Prada for Miu Miu In 2011 Ralph Lauren unveiled a new vintage line” RL Vintage”, inspired by Ralph Lauren’s love of craftsmanship, patina, heritage and personal style, featuring pieces hand-picked from the brand's extensive archives. It also launched with its own e-commerce site, to allow customers to shop - or enquire about - the pieces online.
"I am happy to welcome you to RL Vintage, a very personal experience for collectors who share my love of craftsmanship, patina, heritage and personal style," said Ralph. “
Each season, the designer will select different rare pieces from the Ralph Lauren archives and curate them within a theme - the first being “The Western Collection”: a selection of vintage pieces that were inspired by Ralph Lauren’s love for the West.
This collection features everything from hand-painted fringed jackets to a patchwork Prairie skirt, or a hand-crafted leather saddle bag - with all prices on application. Ralph Lauren- RL Vintage RL Vintagen 2011
Designed by Ralph Lauren
Key word: vintage of the West 5) Ralph Lauren- RL Vintage Valentino Severity may seem like an unlikely scenario at the new Valentino. The designers' lovingly and luxuriously embellished creations have revitalized the house. While perhaps less spare than those Vermeers, there was an appealing austerity to a sleeveless dress in ivory and grayish blue, a strand of large pearls circling its collar. Likewise, a pair of evening dresses, one red and the other China blue, were starkly beautiful, the only embellishments their regal portrait necklines.
There was no lack of intricacy in the details. There were gowns galore, many of unsurpassed beauty, We're thinking especially of the Delft-inspired embroideries and a shorter Delft-like knit. Valentino This new collection took inspiration from the Dutch master Vermeer's Girl With a Pearl Earring. At a preview, the Valentino designers were making connections between what they called the severe yet sensual portraits of Vermeer and their exquisite new collection for Fall 2013.
Making a study of white collars, the designers added them to many of their familiar looks. The collars came in laser-cut leather encrusted with beads or in "Calvinist" plain cotton piqué, and they decorated the simplest pieces, like long-sleeve A-line shifts in wool and short alpaca coats, as well as more ornate creations, including a tulip embroidered lace gown, and another elaborately traced in a Delft ceramics pattern. Valentino Valentino Fall 2013 Ready-to-wear
Designed by Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli
Key words: the Delft-inspired, portrait style Valentino
Pier Paolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri remember the eighties as a time of innocent glamour. And for pre-fall, they set out to re-create that spirit.
"We believe in desire," Chiuri said. Who hasn't dreamed of dancing with Bianca and Mick at Studio 54? The new Valentino collection includes riffs on Mrs. Jagger's famous white tuxedo and the poofy party dresses associated with the era when that nightclub reigned, but the designer used a light touch. Miniature bows by the hundreds were embroidered on the net bodice of a minidress and delicate lace was inset in chevrons on the top of a long black velvet gown. Valentino Valentino Pre-fall 2012
Designed by Pier Paolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri
Key words: 80’s, party dresses 3) Valentino Louis Vuitton's famous Damier provided the template for the checks—both large and small. Even the floral embroideries were stitched in mini-squares, and the house's iconic Speedy bag got cubed, too. The checks gave this collection a graphic immediacy not unlike that of Jacobs' signature line in New York, where stripes ruled.
A flash of flat tummy between bandeau top and maxi skirt and hipbones jutting out from a cropped jacket and a lean pencil skirt ensured that the collection didn't feel cold, despite its comparative lack of emotion. The sunshine yellow worked its optimistic magic, too. Louis Vuitton Louis Vuitton presented the new Pop-style collection with a show as energizing as it was brief. Marc Jacobs makes it look so easy. The mod, sixties-ish shapes, the eye-grabbing checks, all those miles of legs gliding around on sharp little heels. All seemed so efficient.
Les Deux Plateaux, a famous installation piece in the Palais Royal by the artist Daniel Buren with columns arranged in a grid, gave Jacobs his starting point. The columns' three different heights suggested the show's three lengths—mini, midi, and maxi. Buren also collaborated with Vuitton on today's fabulous set, with its four escalators emptying out on a giant yellow and white check runway. Louis Vuitton With "And God Created Woman" announcing the program, Louis Vuitton Fall 2010 Ready-to-wear collection brings up thoughts of the era of the young Brigitte Bardot, of fifties-sixties wasp waists, and circle skirts.
It takes a different casting approach to do justice to the refocusing of all eyes away from legs to the plentiful bosom. On the fashion show, Jacobs framed it more as a fresh, feminine, ingenue look, with hair scraped back into high, bouncy B.B. ponytails ladylike full dress; and square-toed, block-heeled pumps—another angle on the Mad Men era but this time with a charming Frenchified accent. Louis Vuitton Louis Vuitton Fall 2010 Ready-to-wear
Designed by Marc Jacobs
Key words: Bardot, 50’s-60’s 2) Louis Vuitton Christian Dior The way the classic "lady" silhouettes—bustier, full-skirted—were translated into black leather, or the Dior houndstooth was transmogrified into a sexy little bustier with a wrapped silk dress. Such outfits may not have been as dreamily evocative as Simons' memory dresses, but they'll likely be the ambassadors for the new Dior. Christian Dior In this collection, art was the thread that drew Dior and Simons closer together. Its impact on the clothes was most obvious in Simons' decision to use Andy Warhol's early drawings as a recurring graphic. Warhol's spidery shoe drawings were embroidered or embossed on bags; his portraits of women were details on a peplum top or a bustier dress. And Simons used graphic Warholian elements on the pieces he called "memory dresses," gorgeous silk studded with embroidered fragments that induced a fugue state of.
Warhol also echoed in the silvered spheres suspended in the room (like the artist's iconic "clouds“) The Bar jacket—no getting around it—was paired with baggy pants in a navy or charcoal denim wool, and in one fell swoop an ironclad fashion icon surrendered to the moment. Same with the peacoat that was reconfigured as a dress in gray cashmere. Christian Dior Christian Dior Fall 2013 Ready-to-wear
Designed by Raf Simons
Key word: Andy Warhol Christian Dior The designer Bill Gaytten kept it classic for Pre-Fall 2012. Below-the-knee pencil skirts, peplum jackets, bell-shaped tulip skirts, and round-collar capes were offered up in lovely, pared-down versions — with just a dash of drama found in liquid-like vinyl and graphic plaid.
The Dior woman loves to get "dressed“, be it in a bar jacket with a subtle peplum and an elongated pencil skirt or a black patent-leather coat belted snugly at the waist. Christian Dior Christian Dior Pre-fall 2012
Designed by Bill Gaytten
Key word: classic 1) Christian Dior Pop Art with Andy Warhol
Louis Vuitton & Christian Dior, Josh Goot (London 2010): using of special codes as bright colors, dots, shape of 60’s,patchwork …
Western in the U.S.
Ralph Lauren: using of materials as leather and special design on it to reproduce the “Far west” Artistic & Movement recall DIOR, Spring Summer 2012
It re creates the Saint Tropez atmosphere in the 60’s with all swimwear, beachwear and sunglasses with the shape and colors of this period. Location & Time Period Some brands that are willing to shape the vintage modernism trend at its maximum, in both photo-shoots and advertisements, are using special light effects that put all together are giving a perfect illusion of vintage.
The photograph Igor Alekseev that employed the mix of different lights to reproduce the atmosphere of the 50’s.
http://vimeo.com/43600763 The light effect: Igor Alekseev Korean Designer Andre Kim combined the tradition of eastern and western cultrual. In Korean From the fashion show and Europe street snaps we could also know the vintage trends in Europe market. Nowadays，people from different areas become more and more same because of the development of Internet, the communication between different areas and also globalization’s effect. For the aspect of vintage trend, some Asian people followed Europe vintage style and there are also American people ware qipao.
But the different trends in internatinal market also exist. The reasons include region, history, traditional, cultural, belief and so on. The social media and famous people has great effect for customer vintage trend.
So, I will introduce the different trends of vintage in international market seperated main by region and selected some samples as following : The Different Trends in International Market Designs inspired by British style
Burberry, Paul Smith
These two brands from England show the obvious elements of British style.
Video Paul Smith-
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tANTbXEsK4s Lucy Marshall’s Bridal Accessories Ralph Lauren- RL Vintage The designers focused on tailoring in this collection. In addition to a couple of smart nods in the direction of Valentino Garavani's 1960's tailleurs and the aforementioned tuxedo, their high-waisted, tapering trousers looked fresh with slip-on loafers. A strapless red jumpsuit decorated with a single rose is destined for the red carpet. Valentino With the trend of Vintage Modernism exploding over these years, very few designers managed to acutually resist the temptation of adding some vintage elements into their work, and as a result many fashion brand companies had their collections with vintage reproduction. Examples of companies reacting to the trend vintage modernism What are the main adaptations brands are doing to recall a specific time period?
For clothing: All colors, shape, design are introduce in actual collections by small touches (dresses, spots, circles and colored fabrics for instance).
For shoes and accessories: Same phenomenon than for clothes. Introduction of some key features from the past into future collections.
The make up: Also thought as it would have been in the previous decades fashion in term of colors and way of putting together the make up on models.
For haircuts: They are reproducing exact same haircut than we could find in the time period they want to recall. Ex: Brigitte Bardot Time period recall: from 40’s to 80’s PRADA Spring Summer 2012
Romeo + Juliet
The scenery: they are taking famous one and shape it for being more modern
The company is making a reference to Romeo and Juliet history with two “families” that are rivals to control the city and the famous scene at the gas station. Movie Recall For african market，we could see the trend from african fashion week. The design with african elements. 5.African Market In Japan，some fashion magazine effected the trend of customers ，also in vintage. The street snaps could also show the vintage trend in Japan. Last year，a TV show “the voice of China” is very popular in China and the performers’ styles were paying attention. JI kejunyi was focused by her voice and ethnic vintage style. The Biggest fashion activity in South American—San Paulo fashion week also shows the fashion trend in South American market A fashion week holded in Medelin Colombia. Colombia fashion designer show the clothes with South American elements. 3.South American Market In American, famous people like movie stars, TV stars, singers and so on effect the trend of customers. 2.North American Market Vintage in Europe 1.Europe Market Cheongsam is the most influential clothing design that can represent the Chinese retro style. It is known in Mandarin Chinese as the qípáo and is known in English as a mandarin gown. The stylish and often tight-fitting qipao that is most often associated with today was created in the 1920s in Shanghai and was made fashionable by socialites and upperclass women. Chinese retro style British style
The British style was originates in the subcultures of British in history. E.g. The TEDs, The MODs, The Skinhead, The Rockers, The Punk etc. These subcultures enable the British style keep popular in fashion. Classic European Style
The classic European style emerged in the nobility in Europe with a long history. It was influenced by the art of nobility and religion. Glamorous patterns and symmetry are the characteristics of this style design.
Valentino haute couture spring/summer 2013
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HGWFC9l5CLk The typical example for the Pop art vintage design was Prada- Real Fantasies 2012. The designer Jeroen Koolhaas employed with the 50’s and 60’s pop art collages. It exploit the 50’s aesthetics.
Ads video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4jJIhdDi8ps Designs inspired by Pop art For Asian vintage，Chanel lauched show “Paris- Shanghai” and “Paris- Bombay” in 2010 and 2011 with Chinese and India vintage elements. 4.Asian Market With the trend of Vintage Modernism exploding over these years, very few designers managed to actually resist the temptation of adding some vintage elements into their work, and as a result many fashion brand companies had their collections with vintage reproduction. Rebecca Oxford DIOR, Spring Summer 2012
Location and Time Period pieces inspired by Saint-Tropez in the 1960’ PRADA Spring Summer 2012
Movie Recall inspired by Romeo + Juliet Vintage garments and accessories designed by the famous designers
Maria Grazia Chiuri
Pierpaolo Piccioli . Vintage modern also comes from the issue of environmental sustainability. More and more people prefer reusing, recycling and repairing rather than throwing things away. http://gb.cri.cn/30944/2011/12/13/3765s3474291_18.htm
Livingstone, M., Pop Art: A Continuing History, New York: Harry N. Abrams, Inc., 1990
http://www.mindfood.com/at-south-africas-bold-fashion-defies-trends.seo References Ralph Lauren
RL Vintage 2011 Christian Dior
Pre-fall 2012 Fashion design, throughout history and this increasing interest, has turned to the symbol of vintage modern, possessing the inspiration from previous eras. Garments with superior quality from the 1920s to 20 years before the present day is considered vintage Vintage: Valentino
Pre-fall 2012 Christian Dior
Fall 2013 RTW Pop Art with Andy Warhol
Artistic & Movement Recall by Louis Vuitton & Christian Dior and Ralph Lauren African Market Korean Market Japenese Market South American Market North American Market Louis Vuitton
Spring 2013 RTW Louis Vuitton
Fall 2010 RTW Last year, a TV show star JI Kejunyi of “The Voice of China” attracted viewers by her voice and ethnic vintage style. Chinese Celebrities Consumers Europe Market
Classic European Style
Valentino Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2013 Chanel launched show “Paris- Shanghai” and “Paris- Bombay” in 2010 and 2011 with Chinese and India vintage elements Asian Market Cheongsam is the most influential clothing design that can represent the Chinese retro style Chinese Retro Style Pop Art Style
Prada: Real Fantasies 2012 Lucy Marshall
Bridal Accessories Miu Miu
Fall 2011 RTW Trend Inspiration & Designer Examples Group 4:
Zoe BerthetRuomian JinYue LiangDaoying TangAmanda Thiel