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Module 5

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by

Anna Fields

on 12 November 2012

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Transcript of Module 5

Baroque/Restoration Rococo Photographer, Unknown. Shoes. 1630. Photograph. Fashion Institute of Technology, New York. These Shoes from the 1630's in Baroque Europe are known as Latchet shoes with squared toes, chord ties, and high heels. These were worn by men and women alike during this era. The heel and sole of the shoes are painted red, left over from Louis XIV, but still continued into this century. It was considered very beautiful and elegant to have the bottoms and heels of your shoes painted red. Shoes really took off in the Baroque era as shoe making became a fashion staple in Europe. Today we still see the high heel, although not for men, rather for women. Fashion designers of today still carry on the tradition of painting the heels and soles of their designer shoes red. Something that was considered elegant an beautiful back then is still considered elegant and beautiful today. " Designer Red Bottom Shoes For Sale Online, Save Up to 50%." Designer Red Bottom Shoes For Sale Online, Save Up to 50%. N.p., n.d. Web. 5 Nov. 2012. Wyatt, Benjamin Dean . Design for Cast-Iron Grate. 1814. Photograph. Metropolitan Museum of Art, London. This is a drawing design for a cast-iron skillet made by Ben Dean Wyatt in the 1800's that is inspired by the Rococo Style. Photographer, Unknown. Robe a la Francaise . 1760. Photograph. Metropolitan Museum of Art, France. Photographer, Unknown. Robe a la Francaise . 1770. Photograph. Metropolitan Museum of Art, France. Both of these garments, left over from the Rococo period, that are still in good shape at the MET, demonstrate the female silhouette known as the Robe a la Francaise. There were accessories called Paniers (little baskets) that hung on the sides of the hips to give the wide hip silhouette. The silhouette was wide from the front and often was very extreme but from the side was thin. Paniers held the dress out making the waist look very small. Women still wore Stays or corsets that flattened the stomach and chest making the breasts look larger. The 3/4 length sleeves were still in fashion as both these dresses display it. A woman's chest, forearms and hands were considered very elegant and sexy so these dresses often showed them off. The first dress also shows Engageants, or frills ad ruffles on the ends of the sleeves. Both dresses are very light pastel colors which were very romantic and introduced by Madame de Pompadour. Colors became softer and lighter, floral patterns began to make more appearances of gowns, and bows were very popular especially among women of the upper and middle classes. Ancien Regime/Georgian French Revolution Rigaude, Hyacinthe. Louis XIV, King of France. 1701. Photograph. Artstor, France. English, School. Portrait of James Hay, 1st Earl of Carlisle . 1660. Photograph. Artstor, England. Lely, Peter. Portrait of Louise de Keroualie, Dutchess of Portsmouth. 1671. Photograph. Artstor, England. Photographer, Unknown. Robe a la Anglaise . 1775. Photograph. Metropolitan Museum of Art, England. Photographer, Unkown. Ensemble . 1790. Photograph. Metropolitan Museum of Art , NA. Vigee le Brun, Elizabeth Louise. Madame Grand (Noel Catherine Verlee) Princesse de benevent. 1760. Photograph. Metropolitan Museum of Art, Paris, France. Vigee la Brun, Elisabeth Louise. Comtesse de la Chatre (Marie Louise Perrette Aglae Bontemps). 1789. Photograph. Metropolitan Museum of Art, Paris, France. Photographer, Unknown. Broken Eggs. 1756. Photograph. Metropolitan Museum of Art, France. Red and Gold Visible Chemise Jabot Ermine fur Stockings Red heel Ruff Slashing Knee Breeches Square toed mules (high heels) Full bottomed wig Spaniel Hair Style 3/4 length sleeve This beautiful young woman of the late 1600's is still wearing styles that resemble the past century. She has the Spaniel hair style, with her natural hair and a 3/4 length sleeve. Her dress is most likely made of silk/satin which became a luxury and very popular textile of the upper and noble class. Her Chemise is visible, suggesting something sexual. Her dress is also showing much of her neck and chest, which would have been considered very seductive. Things were becoming more relaxed and revealing, especially for women. there is no suggestion of stays or a tight bodice but under her gown she would have been wearing something restrictive and from fitting. balderick The clothing that James Hay is wearing in this portrait is at the beginning of the Baroque period, where new styles were being introduced but the old was still in fashion. He is wearing the Ruff (from Elizabethan) as well as slashing in his Doublet. However, he is wear a baldrick, or leather sword belt around his wait which was a style introduced later in the 17th century. He is also wearing square toed mules and knee breeches which became popular styles for men in the later 17th century or Baroque era. Engegeant Paniers Bows Stays This is a budoir painting (in the home) of a working class family. The man is wearing knee breeches and hose that is tied with a garter. He is also wearing a simple version of mules as he would not be able to afford very expensive and elaborate shoes. He is holding a tri-corn hat to the side of his head and he is wearing red waist coat with a banyan, or robe over it. His banyan, that would have only been worn in the home, would be made of simple cotton rather than satin or silk like the upper classes. The woman on the floor is wearing a simple gown or robe a la francaise that is two colors. She is also wearing a mob cap. ruffles puffed Chemise with ruffles on the cuff Printed cotton This is a simple woman's gown or Robe a la Anglaise, the English version of the french Robe a la Francaise. The Robe a la Anglaise was a less elaborate and smaller version of the french gown. It often was made of a printed cotton or silk that had ruffles and or bows at the top and sleeves. This particular gown is one color and shows the simple and smaller silhouette that the English adopted from the larger french style. This was seen as a more casual, day to day look rather than formal court attire. Cuff Knee Breeches Cut away coat Waist coat The ditto or 3 piece suit was the average male attire of the Georgian period. It had a more tailored silhouette and was often made of one material and one color. This particular Ditto suit was most likely an every day outfit that might have been worn by and upper middle class male. The cut away coat was a new version of the previous coat that originally came from the Persian coat. This suit also has simple, smaller cuffs with buttons. Ruffle cuff Hedgehog Straw hat Black accessories This woman is wearing a very simple robe a la anglaise with a straw hat. Straw hats were very fashionable and were part of the country side look. Black accessories were also very popular among the English and French and many women wore black ribbons and bows of silk, satin or lace as accessories. Her hair is in the Hedgehog style of the time, named for its resemblance to the small rodent, puffed out at the sides and rounded. She also has lace ruffle on her sleeves giving her a very delicate and feminine look. Hedgehog hair style Bow Robe a la Anglaise In this painting of a young woman in the early Georgian era she is wearing the Hedgehog hair style as well as bows for accessories in her hair as well as on her gown. She is wearing the robe a la anglaise and appears to have the country side, shepherdess look. This look was made very popular by Marie Antoinette as she loved the gardens of Versaillas and the simple peasant life, although she had no real conception of what the peasant life was like. had, the year 1668 Versailles apparently approached completion. It. " The Story of Versailles ." Project Gutenberg - free ebooks. N.p., n.d. Web. 8 Nov. 2012. Quentin de La Tour, Maurice. Madame de Pompadour. 1752. Photograph. Artstor, France. Robe a la Francaise Curved heel pattens Engegeant ruffles Vigee-Lebrun, Elisabeth Louise . Queen Marie Antoinette. 1788. Photograph. Artstor, Versailles, France. Elaborate mob cap Hedgehog Redingote During the English civil war Louis XIV becomes the central focus in France. As Louis becomes a powerful ruler in France he decides to build an elaborate palace called Versailles. All of the nobility and upper classes could rent out very expensive apartments at Versailles, an enormous and very ornate hunting lodge, and reside there. However, in order to live at Versailles they had to indulge in the new styles and decor that Louis had fashioned at the time. This was a huge source of commission for the regime and a very well thought out plan by Louis. It was a tremendous boost for France's economy because the people were buying only French made products, as ordered by the king. Louis took elaborate and ornate to a new level by establishing a very strict social rule amongst the upper classes in Versailles and brought all sorts of new fashion into the forefront. Things became very lavish, frilly, and very brightly colored with lots of accents of gold. Louis was a model of his own creations and everyone followed his trends. The creation of Versailles and Louis' new elitist standards brought France to not only the top of Fashion, but a very powerful position in Europe. The Rococo period, as we know it, was during the start of the industrial revolution. Rococo artists were still very much influenced by the Baroque era. Their work and the fashion was still very feminine and romanticized, with soft colors, bows, and frills. Louis the XIV lived to be an elderly man with many children and stayed on the throne until his great grandson, Louis XV took the throne. The court had been moved out of Versailles and back into France at this point because of the economy and Louis XV decided to move it back into Versailles. Louis had an arranged marriage but had little interest in his wife. He had many mistresses but one in particular he fell madly in love with and kept her around. Madame de Pompadour was the beautiful daughter of a working class man who wanted to invest in the noble class in order to have political influence. He educated his daughter, who happened to be very intelligent, then sent her off to royal balls and parties in hopes that she would find a suitor. She caught the eye of the king himself and became his mistress. Madame de Pompadour could be thought of as one of the most politically influential people in history. She was very smart, probably smarter than the Louis, and she ruled France through him. She would make friends with members of the court and very powerful people. She would talk to many people about their economic and political ideas and if she agreed she would tell Louis, who almost always listened to her. She had all of France and the king himself wrapped around her delicate finger. She was also considered a very beautiful woman and her style soon became that of Versailles and all of France. She loved soft pastel colors, the gardens and flowers. A new silhouette, called the robe a la Francaise, started during this era and was considered very elegant and beautiful. Women of the French court began to wear this style. While the American revolution was waging war against the British monarchy under George III, a 16 year old Louis XVI, grandson of Louis XV married the beautiful, 14 year old Austrian princess Marie Antoinette. The two teenagers were thrust into marriage at a very young age and expected to rule France at a time of turmoil. Frances social classes were as far apart as they had ever been and the Bourgeois began to complain about the rising taxes. Marie was very young and had grown up with the silver spoon, not knowing how to rule a country, much less be married. She was very sheltered from the realities that plagued the lower and working classes of France. Unfortunately, her negligence and lack of knowledge of life outside of Versailles led her to be accused for all the wrong doing in France. While she was still young and beautiful however, she indulged herself in the outdoors. She loved the gardens of Versailles and loved spending time with nature. The new style that took hold in the Georgian era was the Shepherdess/country look. Marie loved living "the simple life" although she knew nothing other than life outside of a palace. A more tailored fit to clothing became popular for both men and women and a simpler style of the Robe a la Francaise was created, the Robe a la Anglaise, or the English version. Straw hats and black accessories also became very popular amongst women and colors of textiles became brighter, more brilliant. Printed cotton was also a new invention of the era and gowns were often made of it. "Les Miserables (2012) Official Trailer [HD]: Hugh Jackman, Russell Crowe and Anne Hathaway - YouTube." YouTube - YouTube. N.p., n.d. Web. 8 Nov. 2012. So Les Miserables is probably my favorite musical of all time and my high school actually performed this tow years ago and it was phenomenal. When I heard that it was going to be a movie I got really excited. I really love the French Revolution, not because of how tragic it was of curse, but because it was such an important time in history and I find it very interesting. This is the trailer to the movie that is coming out soon! you may have seen it already, but I can't wait to see it! Photographer, Unknown. Unknown. 1800. Metropolitan Museum of Art, Unknown. Survey of Historic Costume. By Phyllis G. Tortora. New York: Fairchild Publications, 2005. 263, 265, 273. Print. Photographer, Unknown. Unknown. Early 1800's. Metropolitan Museum of Art, Unknown. Survey of Historic Costume. By Phyllis G. Tortora. New York: Fairchild Publications, 2005. 263, 265, 273. Print. Photographer, Unknown. Unknown. 1806. Metropolitan Museum of Art, Unknown. Survey of Historic Costume. By Phyllis G. Tortora. New York: Fairchild Publications, 2005. 263, 265, 273. Print. Photographer, Unknown. Unknown. 1807-1808. Metropolitan Museum of Art, Unknown. Survey of Historic Costume. By Phyllis G. Tortora. New York: Fairchild Publications, 2005. 263, 265, 273. Print. Tailcoat High waist knee breeches Stock Cravat Grecian Hair Chemise Dress Empire Waist This style was the style of women of the Revolution. As people wanted to get as far away from the nobility as possible, they started dressing very different from the wealthy. This was the first dress that did not have stays or corsets and did not restrict a woman. The chemise dress had a high waist, called an empire waist, and resembled a night gown as we think of it today. It was often made of white or off white cotton or linen, showing that it was a working class product and a symbol of the Revolution. Grecian Hair style Chemise Dress Empire waist Riding boots Poke Bonnet Cravat Tailcoat Chemise dress with empire waist Embroidery High waist pantaloons Grecian Hair style Spencer Jacket Chemise Dress Embroidery These garments left over from the early 1800's show the drastic style change that took place during and after the French Revolution. The chemise dress was worn in not only white but printed cottons and embroidered with floral patterns. The Empire waist stayed the main silhouette of gowns and they got shorter in length. Jackets were created to go over the chemise dress called Spencer Jackets, a short cropped jacket that often buttoned up the front and was cut off at the waist line of the dress. A more natural hairstyle was also still in fashion. There were not as many crazy and flamboyant head pieces and wigs, instead women began to wear their hair in the Grecian goddess style, braided or up in a messy bun. In this illustration this upper class couple is wearing the post revolutionary fashions. The man wears a cravat around his neck and a Stock collar. He is wearing the cropped jacket that has long tails down the back called a tailcoat. His knee breeches, or pantaloons have a high waist and meet the tail coat. The woman is wearing a chemise dress that is embroidered at the bottom and up the front. She is also wearing a poke bonnet that has a small rim. Some poke bonnets had very large or long rims. The streets of France ran red with blood during the 3 horrific years of the French Revolution. The Bourgeois and the working classes had finally risen up to take down the monarchy. They forced the nobility from Versailles and took over the country. France became extremely militaristic during this time of compete chaos. The revolutionaries accused each other of being loyal to the nobility and person after person was executed mercilessly. It wasn't until a very strong military leader, Napoleon Bonaparte, took France under his wing and began to rule that the country could start to reform itself. Napoleon had bigger plans for himself than just running France. He decided that he wanted to conquer all of Europe and set out on multiple military expeditions. In 1804 Napoleon crowned himself the emperor of France, placing the crown on his own head instead of the pope placing it on him. This was an act that spoke loudly of Napoleons intentions. He was an ego maniac and power hungry man who gave us the term "Napoleon Complex", meaning a short person with a big ego. As France went through a political and economic revolution the fashion changed along with it. The Revolutionaries as they were called, opposed the nobility and did anything they could not to be affiliated with them. Even the middle class citizens started to dress like the poor working classes to show their alliance with the revolution. This was the first time in history that people dressed to look poor and not the other way around. The colors of the revolution, which is now Frances national flag colors today were worn by those who wanted things to change (Red, blue and white). The next generation of people, the children of the revolution, started their own fashions. The Incroyables and Merveilleuses were the young men and women who grew up through the revolution and began entirely new styles. Men wore high waist pantaloons with buttoned tail coats while women looked back at the ancient Greek goddess look and started to wear empire waist, white gowns and natural hair. Those of older generations laughed at the simplicity and unstructured garments of the early 1800's but the fashion took off and spread throughout the rest of Europe.
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