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Fashion History - the Evening Dress

by: Viktoria Peretokina

Viktoria P

on 2 December 2012

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Transcript of Fashion History - the Evening Dress

By: Viktoria Peretokina History of Fashion:
the Evening Dress Purpose of the Evening Dress: -to emphasize female's sexuality & femininity
-to attract attention of males
-to impact; to give social power & status in the fashionable society
-to reflect wearer's taste, elegance, class & wealth
-to connect to nature
-to advertise wealth of man's family Types of Evening Dresses: -dinner dress: long/half-long evening dress
-formal dinner dress: low-necked, without sleeves
-informal dinner gown: low at front, high at back, long/elbow-length sleeves
-tea gown: hybrid of a wrapper & ball dress; has a train, has long flowing sleeves
-cocktail dress: ends slightly below knee, has a fitted bodice & a full skirt Ancient Egypt -generally simple clothing
-for religious ceremonies, flowers were weaved into collars

-women wore kalasiris (long, fitted sheath dresses)
-weaving techniques of Syrian weavers improved textile production & quality of clothing

-cloth used for garments represented rank
-upper-class had more decorated clothing (associated with evening wear)

-Cleopatra: wore traditional garments & richer attire for great events Ancient Rome: - women wore the stola (ample version of tunic): had full sleeves, ankle-length, fastened by clasps & girdle below bust & hips;
- decor: embroidered with gold thread

- lightweight materials & variety of colours differentiated 'normal clothes' from 'formal clothes'

- noblewomen wore: silk tunic with fringe, silk scarves, kerchiefs Crete (first European civilization): - chiton (tunic) worn by men & women
- Doric peplos & podere (tunics) – only for women

- light linen shawls, embroidery, & jewellery displayed wealth & were used for special occasions Ancient Greece: Ancient Greece: - men's clothing styles were borrowed & adapted

- Eleanor of Aquitaine (Queen of England) brought fashion of long, flowing gown

- luxurious clothing: flared, long skirts, heavy fabric, high waistline & neckline, delicate tops, fitted simple sleeves/elaborate sleeves reaching the floor
- fur was used for decorating

- Black Death made garments more extravagant
- towards end of Middle Ages: clothing made more functional & modest

- clothing material (silk vs. linen) identified class

- modest, indistinguishable silhouettes were popular
- after Leonardo da Vinci's theory that the circle was the perfect shape, clothing became more round the Middle Ages (14th century) - beginning of 15th century: women wore soft version of houppelande (long, wide gown with full sleeves & high collar)

- middle of the century: fuller clothes, colourful, high-waisted dresses with white linen undergowns

- end of century: v-shaped waistline, stomacher, opened up sleeves, farthingale

-Elizabeth I: (icon)
known for great style: wore stiff clothing (Tudor ruff, epaulets, jewelled wig, tight corset, farthingale) the Renaissance (15th & 16th centuries)
- silhouette became more natural & elegant
- blood circulation discovery allowed for more comfort in women's garments

- French spread influence over Europe with fashion mannequins

- robe de chambre was one of more relaxed gowns (2 pieces of fabric tied with a sash)
- at Versailles: richly decorated dresses, wore 3 skirts the Baroque Period (17th century) - influential women of time: Empress Maria Theresa, Catherine the Great, Madame de Pompadour & Marie Antoinette

- distinct silhouette included: the pannier, decolletage, skirt revealing petticoats, transparent material used in evening-dresses

- popular styles: the Watteau gown & robe a la France

- textile trade made large progress (manufacturing of cotton & wool, new inventions, era of mass production begun)

- last decade of 18th century popularized Revolution-inspired military-style fashion the Rococo (18th century)
- many inventions, most important: sewing machine

- popular wear: crinolines gave volume & freedom of movement, bloomers (pantaloons) reflected women's liberation

- styles: waist started returning to natural size,
skirts became shorter, decolletages grew, volume of sleeves increased

- Duchesse de Berry launched 'leg-of-mutton sleeves'

- rise of textile industry-increase in skirt's fullness

- figure of late 19th & early 20th centuries: Gibson Girl
- favoured silhouette: prominent bosom, thin waist & large bottom the Nineteenth century: - evening dresses made to be danced in

- evening gown styles were: sleeveless, loose cut, low-waisted, hem at/ above knee, glittered & jingled with beads,

- highly influenced fashion: Irene Castle (dancer) & Ballets Russes (dancer group), archaeological discovery of Tutankhamen's tomb (Egyptian motifs in dresses), Coco Chanel (Little Black Dress), Patou (designer) Flapper Chic (1920s): - style: clinging, long lines, bias cutting, pleated, emphasized curves, exposed back (attention focus), floor-length gowns

- Coco Chanel (introduced tan & cotton dresses), Elsa Schiaparelli (introduced pink), Madeleine Vionnet (coul & halter neck)

- Great Depression lead to use of cheaper materials

- Hollywood greatly influenced & inspired Satin Sirens (1930s) - styles: ultra-feminine, soft colours, focus on waist, nature-inspired

- popular designers: Dior & the New Look (corseted, strapless dress with voluminous skirt) & Hubert de Givenchy (master of black dress)

- garment lines narrowed as decade came to end Feminine Ideal (1950s): - emphasis on youth

- less formal, loosened-up styles, disco-impacted, short skirt & high neckline

- fashion look constantly changed because of cheap, manufactured clothes with synthetic fabrics

- Yves Saint Laurent (Trapeze dress, Beat collection, Le Smoking) was one of the most popular designers Flamboyant Freedom & Party (1960s): - body conscious, softer silhouette, glamour

- recession in later 70s encouraged natural lines & simplicity

- Bill Blass, Oscar de la Renta, Yves Saint Laurent (animal prints, Russian collection) were just some of the very popular designers the Superluxe (1970s): - strength & sexual dominance was reflected

- styles were: body consciousness, short, tight, had deep colours, shoulder pads, & volume added with ruffles & bows

- body ideal: lean & thin, but powerful & muscular

- influential people: designer Alaia (seductive style), Nancy & Ronald Regan (new U.S. Administrator & his wife; brought formal, occasion atmosphere), Karl Langerfeld (extended & improved Chanel's styles)

- economy rose; glam, style & elegance returned

splits, layers, sheer panels & asymmetric styles became popular in last decades of the 20th century the Fitness Craze (1980s): - styles: Little Black Dress (classic), variations of
St.Laurent's 'Le Smoking”, 'ready-to-wear', 'mix and match',

- body silhouette: thin

- decline in influence of Paris coulture

- not restricted to different parts of society
classics & classic designers come back 1990s till Today: dinner dress formal dinner dress tea gown kalasiri on the left kalasiri with a decorated collar - early-staged loincloth evolved into aprons

- Minoan dresses: flounced skirt & stiff shawl wrapped around body, leaving breasts exposed, girdled at the waist
- silhouette similar to late 19th century Europe: accented chest, small waist & long skirt

- embroidery & colourful decor, pleats & flounces were added on for celebrations, as well as richer textiles, patterns, etc. (early version of evening dresses) Crete - First European Civilization Minoan dresses stolas Eleanor of Aquitaine long dresses with high waists Elizabeth I an example of a houppelande dress natural & elegant dress with decolletage dress worn at Versailles the Watteau gown dress with deep decolletage crinoline structure bloomers flappers Irene Castle floor length, clingy gown one of the evening outfits from 'the New Look' by Christian Dior another New Look dress Trapeze dress Le Smoking the Russian Collection Bill Blass and a model elegant, leg-showing evening wear style Little
Dresses Mixed &
dresses chitons worn by women & men
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