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From nose to tail

Hotelschool the Hague gastronomy class
by

Joost de Vos

on 30 December 2015

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Transcript of From nose to tail

Fergus Henderson caused something of a sensation when he opened his restaurant St John in London in 1995.
Set in a former smokehouse near Smithfield meat market, its striking, high-ceilinged white interior provides a dramatic setting for food of dazzling boldness and simplicity.
As signalled by the restaurant's logo of a pig (reproduced on the cover of Nose to Tail Eating) and appropriately given the location, at St John the emphasis is firmly on meat.
And not the noisettes, fillets, magrets and so forth of standard restaurant portion-control,
all piled up into little towers in the middle of the plate: Henderson serves up the inner organs of beasts and fowls in big, exhilarating dishes that combine high sophistication with peasant roughness.
From Nose To tail...
A Moldavian pig slaughter ...
YOUR ASSIGNMENT IS AS FOLLOWS:
* Review the Prezi related to the
Nose to tail "hype" and think about it
* Discuss it's "life expectancy" as a trend or fad (in Dutch fad=hype) and it's relationship to (sustainable) Gastronomy and restaurant concepts.
* (Be sure to) Follow the guidelines in the SAP for your article – e.g. size and structure
Why from nose to tail...

* Respect for the whole beast
* A sustainable solution
* Back to the days
* Fits into the current "know where your
food is coming from" trend.
* Fits into the no waste trend
* Cheaper

Offal
Variety meats
Abats
Schlachtabfall
......waste ?
Pork is the worst offender for avoidable waste levels: we throw away 93,000 tonnes a year, which tots up to £440 million of unnecessarily discarded pork
Back in the days...

It hasn’t always been this way. Meat wasn't traditionally unsustainable or unethical.
Our ancestors should be praised for making the most of the less popular cuts of meat - shoulders, necks, jowl - and offal - the innards, from the brains to the kidneys
Old recipes..

steak and kidney pie
Haggis
Pigs tongue christmas dinner for good luck
Head cheese
Dutch Balkenbrei
why do we recoil from offal ?
Nose to tail concepts
cultural
Historical
Cannibalism
Is it a ...
Thing ?
Why according to the London chef Alan Stewart who has just visited our school
Hi Joost

I am a big advocate of nose to tail eating, for me this does not just mean using offal and odd bits of animal but means buying whole animals and using the whole thing in your cooking. This philosophy stems from one overall belief that of respect i believe if you are going to kill an animal it is only respectful to use the whole animal not to waste parts that can delivery flavour and interest to the consumer.

However following this belief and philosophy has many advantages it makes you think more about your menu planning, style and quality of dish. It improves the chefs that work for you becues the training and understanding of food they get is so much better, they understand where food comes from and how to utilize all parts of an animal, Not just the lesser used cuts and offal but the fat, skin and bones everything that makes up the beast. It improves you skill as a chef i am pretty much a self trained butcher but feel confidant i can work on any animal.


It is also an issues of cost you can create such a selection of great dishes and cuts from a whole animal for so much less than it costs to buy a large selection of prime cuts.


I hope this helps. If you have any more questions just ask. Hopefully catch up soon.


Alan

Text from Baum and Whiteman - http://www.baumwhiteman.com/2013trends.pdf
Whole animal or whole bird dinners are expanding, triggered by successful nose-to-tail dinners across the country and, in equal part, by large format meals. Although fairly timid (rarely do you get tongues, kidneys, livers and tails) these “dining adventures” are immensely profitable … chefs know exactly how much to purchase for a pre-ordered table, the kitchen cooks a banquet-style meal, tables get filled at off-hours, waiters don’t juggle complicated orders, and the festive event prompts diners to vastly over-order cocktails and wines. Diners, meanwhile, revel in theatricality and in a carnivore’s delight at digging into an animal, often getting finger-sucking greasy.

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