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chapter 17 hairstyling
Transcript of chapter 17 hairstyling
Pg. 444 Cleaning Comb Heating the Comb- After heating the comb to the proper temperature, test it on a piece of light paper. Pg. 444 Heating the Comb The purpose of tempering your new comb to remove the polish so it DON’T stick, scorch the hair to the hair. To temper the new pressing comb, heat the comb until it is extremely hot. Coat the comb in petroleum or pressing oil. Let it cool down naturally, then rinse under hot running water to remove the oil.
Side note: (whatever you do don’t put the comb in the freezer) Pg. 444 Tempering the Comb The size and style of comb. Closely spaced teeth provide a smooth press less space as possible. Spacing gets wider the press gets less smooth more space between the teeth. There are two types of pressing combs: Regular or Electric.
The handle is usually made of wood, because wood doesn’t easily absorb heat. Pg. 443 Pressing Combs A tight scalp can be made more flexible by the systematic use scalp massage and hair brushing. The client benefits because there is better circulation of blood to the scalp. 443 Conditioning Treatments If the scalp is tight and the hair coarse, press the hair in the direction in which it grows to avoid injury to the scalp. If the scalp is flexible , remember to use enough tension to press the hair satisfactorily Pg.443 Scalp Condition Coarse, extremely curly hair has qualities that make it difficult to press. Coarse hair has the greatest diameter during the pressing process it requires more heat and pressure than medium or fine hair Variations in hair texture have to do with the diameter of the hair ( coarse, medium, or fine) and the feel of the hair ( wiry, soft, or silky) Pg.442-443 Hair Texture Failure to correct dry and brittle hair can result in hair breaking during hair pressing. Burned hair stands cannot be conditioned In the case of scalp skin disease, it is not the cosmetologists’ job to diagnose the conditions, but rather to advise the client to see a dermatologist. Pg. 442 Analysis of Hair and Scalp Hard press- is accomplished by applying the thermal pressing comb twice on each side of the hair this is called the double press Pg. 442 Thermal Hair Straightening Full- base curls sit in the center of their base and provide a strong curl with full volume. Pg. 440 Full – Base Thermal Curls End curls can be used to give a finished appearance to hair ends. Long, medium – length or short hair may be styled with end curls. Spiral Curls- is method of curling the hair by winding a strand around the rod. It creates hanging curls suitable for medium to long hairstyles. Pg.439 Other Types of Curls Pressed hair Thermal curling permits styling the hair without the danger of its returning to its former extremely curly condition and it prepares the hair any desired style.
Pg. 437 Thermal Curling with Electric Thermal Irons The temperature setting for an iron depends on the texture of the hair, whether it is fine or coarse, and whether it has been lightened or tined. Pg. 437 Temperature The best way to practice manipulative techniques with thermal irons is by rolling the cold iron in your hand first forward and then backward Pg. 437 Manipulating Thermal Irons The comb should be about 7-inches long , should be made of hard rubber or another non flammable substance Pg.436 Comb used with Thermal Irons One way to remove dirt, oils, and product residue is to dampen a towel or rag and wipe down the barrel of the iron with a soapy solution containing a few drops of ammonia Pg.436 Care of Thermal Irons After heating the iron to the desired temperature, test it on a piece of tissue paper or a white a cloth Pg. 436 Testing Thermal Irons Pomade, also known as wax, adds considerable weight to the hair by causing strands to join together, showing separation in the hair Straightening Gel is applied to damp hair (ranging from wavy to extremely curly) and blown dry, it creates a smooth Straight look that provides the most hold in dry outdoor conditions. Foam, also known as mousse, is a light, airy, whipped styling product that resembles shaving foam. Pg. 433- 434Types of Styling Products Teasing brushing is a thin, nylon styling brush that has a tail for sectioning, along with a narrow row of bristles Vent Brushes- with their ventilated design are used to speed up the blow-drying process, and they ideal for blow-drying fine hair and adding lift at the scalp. Grooming brushes are generally oval, with a mixture of boar and nylon bristles. Paddle Brushes- with their large, flat bases are well suited for mid- length to longer- length hair. A classic styling brushes half- round, rubber –based brush. These brushes typically have either 7 0r 9 rows of rounds- tipped nylon bristles. Pg. 432 Brushes Teeth that are widely spaced teeth shape larger sections of the hair for a more textured surface Pg. 432 Combs & Picks The bloHeating the Combw dryers nozzle attachment or concentrator, is a directional feature that creates a concentrated stream of air
The diffuser is an attachment that causes the air to flow more softly and helps to accentuate to keep textual definition 431 bottom The Blow Dryer Blow-dry styling is the technique of drying and styling damp hair in one operation, and it has revolutionized the hairstyling world. Pg. 431 Blow-dry Styling Go to the floor and freestyle with rollers, pin curls, and or waves Friday Bring mannequins
And you’re a game with creative What to bring class
Friday Morning To smooth hair that is backcombed, hold the teeth of a comb (or the bristles of a brush) at a 45 – degree angle pointing away from you and lightly move the comb over the surface of the hair Pg 430 smooth hair Backbrushing-also known as ruffling, to cushion or to mesh 2 or more curl patterns together for a uniform and smooth comb out
Backcombing- also known as teasing, ratting, matting, or French Lacing, involves combing small sections of the hair from the ends towards the scalp, causing the shorter hair to mat at the scalp and form a cushion or base. Like hot rollers, Velcro rollers are used on dry hair. Using them on wet hair will snag and pull the hair.
Velcro rollers only need to stay in the hair for only 5-10 minutes, depending on how much set you want in the hair
Velcro rollers are NOT allowed at state board of some states and provinces because they are difficult to clean and disinfect properly. Pg. 428 Velcro Rollers A thermal protector can be sprayed on the hair before setting. The result is a curl that is weaker than a wet-set curl, but stronger and longer and lasting that can be achieved using a curling iron Hot rollers are used to be only on dry hair. They are heated either electrically or by stem. Pg. 428 Hot Rollers Indentation is the point where curls of opposite direction meet, forming a recessed area. Pg.428 Roller Direction One complete turn around the roller will create a C shape Curl
One half turn s will create a wave
Pg. 427 middle Choosing Your Roller Size Base is the panel of the hair on which the roller is placed
Stem is the hair between the scalp and the first turn of the roller
Curl , also known as circle, is the hair that is wrapped around the roller Pg. 427 Part of a Roller Curl Rollers 1._______________are usually recommended at the side front hairline for a smooth, up swept effect.
2. Caved Curls Also known as___________ curls
3._____________ also known as stand- up curls, are used to create height in the hair design.
Thursday Cascade curls- also known as stand- up curls, are used to create height in the hair design.
Pg. 425 bottom Creating Volume with Pin Curls Barrel curls- have large center openings and are fastened to the head in a standing position on a rectangular base. Skip Waves are 2 rows of ridge curls, usually on the side or (commonly found) head Ridge curls- are pin curls placed immediately behind or below a ridge to form a wave Square base pin curls are suitable for curly hairstyles without much volume or lift. Arc base pin curls also known as half moon of C shaped base curls, are carved out of shaping. Triangular base pin curls are recommended on the front or facial hairline to prevent breaks or splits in the finished hairstyle. Rectangular base pin curls are usually recommended at the side front hairline for a smooth, upswept effect. To avoid splits in the comb out, the pin curls must overlap. The most commonly shaped base is the arc base (half-moon or C shaped). Others are rectangular, triangular, or square. Pg. 424 Pin Curl Bases or Foundations Open-center curls produce even, smooth waves and uniform curls. 423 bottom Open- and Closed – Center Curls Shaping’s are either open- or closed-end. Always began a pin curl at the open end A shaping is a section of hair that is molded in a circular movement in preparation for the formation of curls.
Pg. 423 Shaping For Pin Curl Placement The no –stem curl is placed directly on the base of the curl. It produces a tight, firm, long-lasting curl and allows minimum mobility
Full- stem curl- allows for the greatest mobility Pg 423 Mobility of a curl Circle- is the part of the curl that forms a complete circle and ultimately the wave Base- is the stationary (non-moving) foundation of the curl, which is the area closest to the scalp, the panel of hair on which the roller is placed Pg. 422 at the bottom Parts of a curl Pin curls 1.________ ______is the process of shaping and directing the hair into and S pattern through the use of the finger, combs, and waving, lotion.
2. _____________finger waves are sideways and parallel around the head
3. Finger weaves was all the rage in the
______ - ______
Wednesday In vertical finger waving the ridges run up and down the head
Horizontal finger waves are sideways and parallel around the head
Pg. 422 Other Methods of Finger Waving Waving lotion is a type of hair gel that makes the hair pliable (easy to move) enough to keep it in place during the finger- waving procedure. Pg. 421 bottom Finger waving lotion Finger waving is the process of shaping and directing the hair into and S pattern through the use of the finger, combs, and waving, lotion.
Finger weaves was all the rage in the 1920s & 1930s Pg. 421 Finger Waving The client consultation is always the first step in hairstyling process:
have your client look through magazines to find styles that she likes better yet show her your portfolio of hairstyles. Pg. 420 bottom Client Consultation Chapter 17 Hairstyling Thermal waving and curling are also known as Marcel waving is methods of waving and curling straight or pressed dry hair Pg. 435 Thermal Hairstyling Hair Wrapping –is a technique used to keep curly hair smooth and straight while retaining a beautiful shape.
Wrapping can be done on wet or dry hair Pg. 431 Hair Wrapping Backcombing
Back brushing Techniques Pg. 429 Comb Out Techniques Caved or sculpture Curls- pin curls sliced from a shaping and formed without lifting the hair from the head are referred to as Caved Curls Also known as sculptured curls Pg. 424-425 Pin Curl Techniques On base- also known as full base. For full volume, the roller sits directly on its base. For medium volume, the roller sits halfway on its base and halfway behind the base. Pg. 427 bottom Roller Placement