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Courtland Thompson

on 5 May 2015

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Transcript of Menswear

David Bowie in The man Who Sold The World Cover , 1970

Timeline of Mens Feminine Fashion
The 1830s brought male girdles that created feminine wide hips and nipped waists

Dandy Beau Brummell (1778 - 1840) created the modern 3-piece suit with full-length trousers which was tailored clothes with vibrant color

previous centuries men were expected to primp and preen

caring about appearance = "weaker sex"

Flamboyance was expressed through brightly patterned accents like neck wear and waistcoats.

The Companies
The Looks
Flagships are influenced by a British gentlemen’s club that Dunhill has perfected at Bourdon House
Dolce and Gabbana and Dior have Mens only flagships all over the world
Dolce & Gabbana
Calvin Klein
In 2016, the global menswear market
is forecast an increase of 13.9% since 2011.

Americas accounts for 35.4% of the global menswear market value.

For middle classes, there was more of a clear distinction between the way females and men dressed.

For elite classes gender flexibility in dressing has almost always been more acceptable.
(Designers) Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana:
Founded 1985 in Milan
Based on a cinematic dream of Sicily
Worked through a succession of curvy movie-world muses: Anna Magnani, Sophia Loren, Monica Bellucci, Scarlett Johansson, and Isabella Rossellini
"Dolce and Gabbana like to explore opposites: virgin/tart, romance/sex, country/city, masculine/feminine"
Romantic partners for more than 20 years of their collaboration but, their union ended in 2005.
Tommy Hilfiger
Feminine Influences:
Putting sweaters around the waist
(Designer) Raf Simon:
Born in Belgium in 1968
Graduated in Industrial Design and Furniture Design in 1991
"Dior's house has a flamboyant, even theatrical, reputation."
Feminine Influences:
Slim-fitted suits
Feminine Influences:
Waist belts
Curvy designs
Self-trained - became a designer
His 1st Dior fashion show was a modernist reinterpretations of Dior’s New Look icon, the Bar jacket
Phillips-Van Heusen
In the 1700s men and women clothing started to resemble each others
During this time men started wearing a knee-length linen undergarment
coats typically had vents in the back and sides, which allowed men to ride horses comfortably
Feminine Influences:
Slim-fitted suits
Waist belts
Fitted leather jackets
Metrosexual, 2000s
Dandy, 1822
Dandies c. 1840s
The Breakdown

King Louis XIV, 17th Century
In 1663 the English court adopted the Periwig, further feminizing the men of the time
King Louis XIV (1638-1715)
Standing at 5' 4" tall, he assisted the height of men's shoes: some of his own were 6 inches high.
As modern women know, heels also help produce flexed, shapely calves which were still very much in the style of the Sun King's time.
Color choice

black and white is a timeless classic used in both men and women's fashion.
black conveys authority
and power
Lighting is a key component in advertising. differentiating brands
The Difference
In this ad, Dior takes a sullen approach, and it's enticing.
for different products, different lighting can be used.
the same way that sex sells in advertising, a commercial the features luxury and sophisticated masculinity is also visually appealing.
Van Heusen
G.H. Bass & Co.
Panel 2
Boy George, 1980s
Madonna, 1980s
Within the past few years, androgyny in fashion has become an increasingly popular trend. Many designers who showed their lines in this past New York Fashion Week fused together their menswear and womenswear looks, as they seemed to almost mirror each other. Fashion absolutely reflects what is going on in society today, and in a world where men and women are viewed equal and are able to attain the same positions, it makes perfect sense that the fashion suggests the same idea.
What has been considered masculine or feminine, has been changing throughout the centuries. Something that is considered girly today might be manly tomorrow.
Everything about shopping for men is changing from things as small as broader selections to as big as creating a whole new store.
As the merge of men's and women's fashion becomes more popular and apparent, marketers are challenged to break the age old mold of sex appeal to market to men on a more intellectual and sophisticated level
The company was born in 1881
Aquiered Calvin Klein in 2003 and Tommy Hilfiger in 2010
In February 2013 acquisition of The Warnaco Group, Inc. ("Warnaco")
The Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfiger brands together represent close to 85% of our operating profits
Introducing a full travel-inspired collection that is targeted to a man on the go called Van Heusen Traveler,
The collection is going to be at Kohl’s, J.C. Penney and Macy’s stores for fall.
The public viewed the music movement as a rebellious act of unusual sexuality.
Among the defining spring trends for men~

Tom Ford's spring/summer 2014 line encompassed all of the trends that seemed to re-appear on the runway.

Like many other modern designers, he too is fusing similar colors, prints, and silhouettes between his looks for men, and his looks for women.

These trends were the same ones seen in the women's collections at New York Fashion Week. The merge between men and women's fashions has become fairly seamless, as the two are extremely similar in many aspects.
Why does sex sell?
As humans, we have a reptilian or lizard brain that acts in response to particular primal urges.
Food is one
Sex is another
Many of the pant ensembles seen in both Tom Ford and Marc Jacob's collections were either tailored or extremely relaxed in fit, The tailored pant on men is a look more commonly associated with women's clothing, where as the relaxed, loose pant is something thought to be more masculine.

Designer's were intertwining both pant styles into their collections this year, proving the fusion of men and women's fashion, as they seem to mirror each other today.

Prior to being seen on men, the "short pant" was worn by women, as the visible ankle was fairly feminine and soft looking. However today, the fitted, "shrunken" suit is the more desired look for men.
fitted pant
relaxed fit
shortened pant
Thom Browne- the shrunken suit
Browne began selling these suits in 2001, which featured a shortened sleeve, a jacket that stops just below the belt line, and shortened, tailored suit pants that reveal the ankle.
These proportions that seemed ridiculous when he began designing, are now commonly seen in the modern men's suit.

Browne appreciated the "made you look" aspect of his "shrunken suit" and began designing collections around it.
Katharine Hepburn
While feminine looks on men, and masculine looks on women is a modern trend in the fashion industry, Katharine Hepburn began wearing suits in the 1940's which revolutionized women's suits and made them acceptable for women to wear
Raf Simons~ Dior
Even in 2013, designers such as Raf Simons designing for Dior. were incorporating looks into their collections that worked for both sexes.

Their Spring/Summer 2013 collection was said to feature florals, astute cuts, and bold prints where femininity and masculinity were interplayed.

In an interview with Dazed digital magazine , Raf Simons was asked if designing couture has influenced his menswear and he felt that it definitely had.
~ He replied "It has definitely made me think things over. I feel that men are currently interested in the way that womenswear is made and produced. How the clothes look, how the clothes are shaped, and how they are materialized.
J.Crew- The Ludlow Suit
Sales: $32,910,400,000
Sales $1,860,500,000
Sales $5,890,620,000
Founded 1947
Licensed Brands
Heritage Brands
CEO of J.Crew, Millard Drexler
created a suit to cater to every

Much like Thom Browne's
shrunken suit, it is classic but
features elements that set it apart
from the traditional mass market
~tailored fit
-low rise, shortened pant
~narrow lapels
Saint Laurent menswear model is a female

a dark palette
floral prints
relaxed tailoring
He had five of them made and wore them around town as a source of advertisement, and turned his apartment on the Upper East Side into a showroom-atelier.
Sex in advertising is the use of sexual, provocative or erotic imagery, sounds, suggestions and subliminal messages that are specifically designed to arouse interest in a particular product, service or brand.

According t Calvin Klein himself, not only does sex sell well, it wears well, it smells good, and it sleeps soundly, and he is right!
-designed to eliminate the idea of necessary masculinity in menswear.
-the same clothes, shoes,
and accessories were available to both men and women in this line.
-gave his clients the freedom of expression regardless of gender
ad 1960's
Androgyny in fashion and current trends
In recent years, the fashion industry has seen a shift in its advertising trends.
More and more, marketers are recognizing that they must attempt to abandon the "boobs-and-beer" standpoint.
They are challenged to appeal to men on by talking to them in a sophisticated manner, and tune in to their intellectualism instead of assuming a one size fits all approach.
This type of interest was originally applied to appeal to women.
Tom Ford Spring/Summer 2014
Marc by Marc Jacobs Spring 2014
Tom Ford Fall/Winter 2013/14 Menswear
As seen here, advertising during the "mad men" era was simplistic, to the point.
geared solely to grab the viewer's attention through suggestive imagery.
Androgyny in fashion has become an inreasingly popular trend, where we are seeing more and more features of women's clothing incorporated into menswear

~cropped, shortened pants
~tailored and stream line clothing
~bright, saturated colors
~bold florals and prints
Tom Ford Fall/Winter 2013\14 Women's wear
Recent trends in fashion have blurred the line between men and women's fashion.
Advertising has also reflected this trend, as seen here in Tom Ford's Fall\winter collection.
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