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The Jeans Lifecycle ... a critical perspective

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on 30 June 2015

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Transcript of The Jeans Lifecycle ... a critical perspective

The Jeans Lifecycle
- a critical perspective -

Production
Consume // Use
What is
FAIR?
www.peopletree.co.uk
high water demand/usage (about
9000L
of water go into a pair of jeans)
pesticide ->contamination of soil, water and air
cotton has high risks of pest infestation
risk of loss of biodiversity

environmental problems
social problems
toxic ground water
farmer suicides
sharecropping
child - and forced labour
www.uzbekgermanforum.org
Sumangali Scheme
factory
standards..
lifecycle analysis
consumer facts
upcycling, etc
Material
Supply Chain
The stopovers of a pair of jeans - 40,000km around the world
1.
Netherlands / design
2.
Uzbekistan / cotton growing
3.
India / spining, weaving
4.
China, Indonesia / dyeing
5.
Bangladesh / sewing
6.
Germany / sale
7.
Zambia / disposal as used clothing
cultivating areas: cotton
Cotton - the white gold
main natural fibre used for clothing today

cotton and polyester cover 80% of the worlds fibre demand

2,5 % of total arable land is used for cotton

100 mio. cotton farmers worldwide

60% of those people are from developing counties
Alternatives
how many pairs of jeans are bought world wide per second?

how many kilo clothing are bought per person in Germany per year?

how high is the average budget for fashion consumption per year per household in Germany?

Germans have never before spend as much on private consumption as in 2013: 1,57 billionen Euro.
the decline in prices can especially be observed in the clothing industry.
-> we buy more but pay less
consumption binge mainly by young people/ teens->shopping is a hobby
alternatives: conscious consumption
„Consumption is today no longer a question of self-fulfilment, but a question of responsibility.“
-Claudia Banz
buy less and with an awareness
pay attention to “Siegel“
secondhand, clothing swap partys
store concepts like the „“Kleiderei“ in Hamburg or “Filippa K. Lease“, where you can borrow clothing.
the most important „Siegel“:
GOTS, Fair Wear Foundation, Fairtrade Cotton
research from the Netherlands shows that the average piece of
clothing stays in a Dutch person’s wardrobe for 3 years 5 month, is on the body for 44 days during this time and is worn for 2,4 and 3,1 days between washings.
a typical garment
is only washed and dried around
20 times in its life
, most of its eviromental impact comes from laundering and not growing, processing and produceing or disposing of it at the end of its life.
Washing it half as often reduces the energy consumption by 50%
this applies only to certain garments, like clothing, workwear and household textiles, where the use phase has the highest enviromental impactBut for carpets for example the energy and enviromental profil is very different, here the focus is on the production and the disposal phase.
how many kilos of clothing end up in the recycling bank per person in Germany every year?
Johanna Bose
+ Helen Gimber

Made in ....?
.... Asia?
"The Global East"
Benin, Burkina Faso, Côte d'Ivoire, Malawi, Mosambik, Zambia
conventional cotton grown by small farmers in the subsahara (no genetically modified seeds )
rain fed cotton
help people to help themselves, by means of trade
increase in farmers’ incomes
establish stable demand in the world market for sustainably grown cotton
Cotton made in Africa
www.cotton-made-in-africa.com
www.bettercotton.org

not-for-profit organisation

stewards global standards for Better Cotton

helps farmers to grow cotton in a way that r
educes stress on the local environment
and
improves the livelihoods and welfare of farming communities
Brazil, India, Mali, Pakistan, China, Mozambique, Tajikistan, Turkey, Senegal, Kenya
GOTS ORGANIC COTTON
www.global-standard.org
Comes from
non genetically modified
plants,
Grown
without
the use of any synthetic agricultural
chemicals
such as fertilizers or pesticides.
independent certification for the whole supply chain
ca.
1 %
of world cotton production
GM cotton makes up :
96% of US cotton crops
93% of Indian cotton crops
49% of world cotton crops
Genetically Modified Cotton (Bt Cotton)
these lifecycle analysis studies have given the businesses the possibility to deflect from there practices and turn the spotlight away from manufactures onto the consumer

60
pair of jeans
about 14kg
, which is equivalent to about
23 Jeans per person
according to the Federal Statistical Office in 2011 every german household spend
104€ per month
on clothing.That is
1248€ a year
. At an average 2,02 people per household that is
624€ per person per year.That would make 27€ per jeans.
if we would buy only as much as we really needed then we would have 78€
to spend on a pair of jeans and be able to pay for a social and economicaly
sustainable pair of jeans

about 9 kg or 15 jeans per person
Material
Production
Consume + Use
Upcycling, Etc

Care Labels
Uzbekistan
The Better Cotton Initiative (BCI)
consumption
with "better" laundry practices the lifecycle energy consumption can be reduced by a factor of 4 according to the data of polyester and a factor af 2 by cotton
washing 10°C colder will reduce the energy consumption by 10%
->this of course does not guarantee big sustainable gains across the board. i
f we measure the environmental impact of cotton by toxicity rather then energy use, then changing the washing and drying behaviors brings almost no improvement.
Better laundry practices
Marks and Spencers „think climate-wash at 30°C“ care label in 70% of there clothing.
(recommending washing temperatures from 50°C (pre 2000) to 40°C (2001) and now since 2007 to 30°C.
Xintang
260 million pairs of jeans a year
60% of China's total jeans production
40% of the jeans sold in the US each year
"Jeans Capital of the World"
Employment is freely chosen.
There is no discrimination in employment.
Child labour is not used.
Freedom of association and the right to collective bargaining are respected.
Living wages are paid.
Hours of work are not excessive.
Working conditions are decent.
The employment relationship is established

Freedom of association
"CLEAN"
Employment is freely chosen.
www.rohstoff-upcycle.blogspot.de
www.recojeans.com
www.reetaus.com
Fairtrade cotton
farmers recieve a guaranteed minimum price for their cotton and a bonus for local, social projects
not necessarilly organic cotton
no genetically modified seeds
reduction of chemicals
only rain fed
crop rotation
Generell
Generell
SOLUTIONS ??
TRANSFORMING FASHION PRODUCTS
TRANSFORMING FASHION SYSTEMS
TRANSFORMING FASHION DESIGN PRACTICE
MATERIALS
PROCESS
DISTRIBUTION
CONSUMER CARE
DISPOSAL
ADAPTABILITY
OPTIMIZED LIFETIMES
LOW-IMPACT USE
SERVICES & SHARING
LOCAL
BIOMIMICRY
SPEED
NEEDS
ENGAGED
communicator-educator
facilitator
activist
entrepreneur
Kate Fletcher and Lynda Grose
Everyone needs to be involved
Multi Stakeholder Initiative without independent auditing
Business Associations
Multi Stakeholder Initiative with independent auditing
Full transcript