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The Art of Dressing Hair- theory

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Hannah Ratcliffe

on 15 March 2015

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Transcript of The Art of Dressing Hair- theory

What is the hair made of?
You must be able to:
The hair is made from polypeptide chains – a keratinised protein.
There are millions of these in every strand of hair.

They are held together by two different bonds.
Let’s look at it in more detail….
Blow drying and its effects
Before the hair is shampooed, the Hydrogen bonds hold the polypeptide chains together. Hair in its natural state is called Alpha Keratin
Alpha Keratin
Once the hair has been shampooed, many of the Hydrogen bonds are broken. This allows the hair to be stretched around a roller or brush.
Adding water....
Once the hair has been stretched, fully dried and allowed to cool into the new shape, the hair is said to be in Beta Keratin. In this state the Hydrogen bonds are reformed.
Beta Keratin
What have we learned so far?
Water allows you to produce a different look for your client.

When you shampoo your client’s hair, the hydrogen bonds are broken down.

This allows you to re-form them into a temporary shape that will last until the next shampoo.
Straight hair (beta keratin)
Curly hair (beta keratin)
Naturally curly hair (alpha keratin)
Naturally straight hair (alpha keratin)
Naturally straight hair becomes curly, changing alpha to beta keratin
Naturally curly hair becomes straight, changing alpha to beta keratin
Curly hair (beta keratin)
Naturally straight hair becomes curly, changing alpha to beta keratin
Alpha to beta keratin
Straight hair (beta keratin)
Naturally curly hair (alpha keratin)
Naturally curly hair becomes straight, changing alpha to beta keratin
Alpha to beta keratin
Naturally straight hair (alpha keratin)
The hair....
Explain the physical effects of styling on the hair structure.
What is Humidity?
If the atmosphere is damp or it is raining, or the client intends to go home and bath or shower after the service, the client’s hairstyle could begin to collapse.
Describe the effect of humidity on the hair
This is because the hair is Hygroscopic-
This means it absorbs water.

Hair will return to it’s alpha keratin shape.
We therefore need some strategies we must apply when styling and finishing client’s hair...
Explain how the incorrect use of heat can effect the hair and scalp
Hairdressers must always be aware of the dangers
involved in the use of heated equipment and styling
Incorrect application of heat on the hair and scalp
Damaging the cuticle causing the hair to break if a hand held dryer or other heated equipment is held at one area of the hair or scalp for too long it is likely to burn.
The hairs cuticle may be damaged or the hair may become weak and completely break off.
If care is not taken there is a danger of:
Think about this when doing any straightening or curling!!
Excess Heat
Below is a piece of hair that has ‘bubbled’ due to excessive heat
White or bleached hair may become discoloured due to the heat.
Styling techniques activity....
Styling techniques
Tools used
Styling and finishing products, used to create the look.
You will be given picture of a style to deconstruct
and present to the class
You must state:
Practical observation descriptors table.
You must be able to:
Describe how to secure long hair looks.
State the purpose of back combing and back brushing.

Products used before
Products used afterwards
Setting to help support it
How do we secure long hair?

Backcombing/back brushing helps to control the hair
Using the correct products
Washing the day before, minimum conditioner
How do we control long hair?
Why is it important?
Lasts longer, better result, more professional, client happy, recommendations, advertising, occasions,
Back brushing
Back brushing..
Gives height and volume
Done with a brush
Roughens the cuticle so the hairs will tangle slightly
Practical and knowledge assessments:
Getting to grips with what you must do and know...
How well you do..
On your own make a note of:
Factors to consider when blowdrying hair.
And why each one is important.
You need to know....
when doing practical skills you need to...
Describe the factors that need to be considered when styling and dressing hair.
Evaluate the potential of the hair to achieve the desired look by identifying the influencing factors.
(remember the checklist??)
We will collect or ideas together to come up with a list.
Influencing factors
what does it mean????
Anything that could effect your decisions about the service.
Describe the factors that need to be considered when styling and dressing hair.
Hair growth patterns
Hair tendency
Hair condition
Face shape
face features
Fashion trends
client requirement
Oval face
Face shapes
Suits any hair style
Round face shape
Hair needs height

longer lengths
long face shape
Add width
Square face shape
Texture onto the face to soften the jawline

Longer lengths

Avoid plaits
Triangle face shape
Longer lengths

Full sides

Avoid low knots or chignon
Face Features
Protruding ears

Protruding nose

Short neck

Long neck
Hair growth patterns
Double crown

nape whorl

widows peak
4 minutes
Have a go...
Consult with your partner

Identify any influencing factors

What style will you recommend?
write your answers on the mirror
10 minutes

The texture of a clients’ hair may be unsuitable for the required look. Fine hair often lies flat where as coarse hair is sometimes bushy and voluminous.
Hair texture- a single strand
Hair length
The length of the hair will determine the size of rollers to be used during setting and the choice of equipment you choose for blow drying. The length of the hair will determine the style which can be achieved.
Hair density- The amount of hairs in one area.
This must be taken into account when choosing a style for your client. If the hair is very sparse or abundant, certain looks may not be suitable.
Hair type

Afro Caribbean


When a look is chosen, the hair will need to be checked to determine whether the hair is too curly or straight for the chosen look.
Hair type
Blow drying and its effects

The structure of the hair
This picture shows the print from another hair which has previously been sprayed into place


Welding, with product can be seen clearer here

The Art of Dressing Hair
Unit 209

What can we remember?
Group 1- tools and equipment we could use when styling and dressing hair.
Group 2- styling and finishing products
Styling products will protect the hair and allow the style to last
Why use styling products?
Group 3- client preparation and methods for cleaning and sterilising
5 minutes then we will rotate.
By the end of the session you will be able to:
Self assess own knowledge against 'what you need to know'
Use previous knowledge to state methods of client preparation, cleaning and sterilising.
Use previous knowledge to state and explain different tools, equipment and products used to style hair.
Page 1 - Cleaning and sterilising of equipment
Tools and equipment and products.

By the end of the session you will be able to:
Describe the physical effects of styling on the hair.
Identify factors to be considered when styling hair.
Group Activity
Devise a creative way of describing to the group the effects of styling on the structure of the hair.
Identify and describe how to recreate styling and dressing techniques

Follow manufacturer’s instructions at all times.
This will help ensure safe use and the hair is fixed in its beta state.
Always advise a styling product, especially if the weather is damp or wet.
All products are either silicone or plastics suspended in liquid.

These are dried over the cuticle and protect the hair from the damp atmosphere.
You have 5 minutes then we will rotate
Give examples of aftercare and maintenance of style advice
Physical effects
Full transcript