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VOGUE

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Mingyu Jun

on 13 October 2014

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Transcript of VOGUE

Identity
"Foundation of the Vogue's authority is the brand's unique role as a cultural barometer for global audience"


History (over 120 years)
1892 - Arthur Turner (Weekly)
Vogue: mode of fashion prevalent at any particular time
Targeted small circle of social elite New Yorkers


1909 - Publisher Conde Nast purchased the magazine
1914 ~ 1952 - Edna Chase
1914 - Constructed first fashion editorial
1932 - First color photography on its cover
History continued
1952 - Jessica Daves, Victorian obsession
1963 - Diana Vreeland
Appeal to the youth of the sexual revolution by focusing more on contemporary fashion and editorial features that openly discussed sexuality.
East Village boutiques such as Limbo on St. Mark's Place, as well as including features of "downtown" personalities such as Andy Warhol
These coverages captured people's interests and broadened the idea of fashion
1971 - Grace Mirabella
Included text, interviews, arts coverage, and serious health pieces to the magazine’s fashion features
1988 - Anna Wintour, Current editor in Chief
General (Print)
Subscriptions: 991,977
Total Average Circulation: 1,259,826
Total audience: 12,663,000
Median Age: 38.5
Gender - Female/Male: 87.5% / 12.5%
International - 19 countries + 12.5 Mil audiences

Fashion Bible
Omnipresent guidebook in the elite market place, under the Wintour's tenure
"No fashion figure has ever played her power as strongly and cannily as the feared, respected, sharply intelligent Wintour" - New York magazine


Now (Digital)
Famous Issues
Sep 1933
Sep 2012
The September Issue

September 2012 issue - 916 pages (4.5 pounds, 658 record-breaking ad pages)
Pop Culture Lexicon - Provide more ads and contents than usual
Anna Wintour
Born November 1949 in London
Daughter of Charles Wintour

Early Major Editorial Career
Harper's & Queen in London
Fashion editor at several publications, such as Haper's Bazaar and New York magazine

Rise to the Top
Chief editor of the British Vogue in 1986
House & Garden in 1987


Anna Wintour
Trade Mark
Pageboy bob hair cut and Sunglasses +
Icy demeanor
Editor-in-chief of Vogue in 1988

"I want Vogue to be pacy, sharp, and sexy, I'm not interested in the super-rich or infinitely leisured. I want our readers to be energetic, executive women, with money of their own and a wide range of interests,"

New ground

End of Supermodel era, a preferring celebrities
Mix of low-end fashion items with more expensive pieces in her photo shoots


Wintour again
Other editions of Vogue
Men's Vogue
Feature stories of public figures
Not successful
Final issue - Nov 2008
Teen Vogue
More glossy
Target younger audiences
Often cover serious topics
Smaller size
Takeaway
Vogue Editor
"It was so unlike the studied and elegant close-ups that were typical of Vogue’s covers back then, with tons of makeup and major jewelry. This one broke all the rules." - Anna Wintour
Debut cover 1988
Vogue Editor
Issue maker
Oprah Controversy
Need to lose 20 pounds to be on the cover of her magazine in 1998

Hilary Clinton
Appearing too feminine might undermine her presidential ambitions

"The notion that a contemporary woman must look mannish in order to be taken seriously as a seeker of power is frankly dismaying"

Charity Life

With the Council of Fashion Designers of America, She created funds to support up-and-coming designers
Fundraiser for the Metropolitan Museum of Art's costume department
Fashion's Night Out - Oscar de la Renta, Tommy Hilfiger

Life in Politics
In 2012, "Runway to Win" fundraising event for President Barack Obama with actress Scarlett Johansson.

Now
April 2008
Jan 1981
Seems to be fairly stable
Strong power in market place

Future strategy
Creating more channel -- namely digital-- to run new initiatives to extend the magazine's influence.
Print still important
Future
Criticism
Annie Liebovitz
One of the best portrait photographer

Brand expansion - Oversaw the introduction of three spinoffs
Vogue and herself - the fashion icon
Setting trends, anointing new designers(e.g. Marc Jacobs)
Updated Vogue over the last 20 years to reflect changes in the world and in women’s lives.
Included high-quality photographs from renowned photographers, such as Peter Lindbergh, Irving Penn, Annie Leibovitz
An avid follower of politics, as well as sports, she has broadened Vogue’s coverage
It was one of the first national publications to write about Sarah Palin.
Long piece writings from different writers with distinct voices, Julia Reed on politics, Jeffrey Steingarten on food

Honors and awards
ASME - Hall of Fame in 2010
Named Order of the British Empire in 2008
Appointed to the President Obama’s Committee on Arts and Humanities.
An Elective Trustee of The Metropolitan Museum of Art
Artistic Director of the Conde Nast in 2013
Power to roam over other magazines in the company, especially ones that are viewed as troubled or dated (Conde Nast Traveler, Lucky underwent makeover)

“Anna has been a driving force behind the success of Condé Nast, so it is a great privilege to extend her influence beyond the Vogue brand to the rest of the organization” - Charles Townsend, The executive director of Conde Nast






O
"Vogue has become stale and predictable" - New York Times in 2008
Audience complained that same cover models,such as Nicole Kidman, Sienna Miller, repeatedly appeared
In 2008, Vogue’s ad pages were down 9.6 percent, according to Mediaweek , compared with an average 8 percent decline for other fashion magazines.
Too many stories about socialites
General
Median Age - 38.5
Gender - Female/ Male: 58% / 42%
Average Monthly Visitors - 3,208,275
Average Monthly Page Views - 66,307,904

New Website (Aug 2014)
More interactive, broader
Clean look, Unique content
The new site has its own expanded staff and space in the headquarters of Conde Nast
Dialogue between R.J. Cutler (director of the September issue) and Tom Florio

Florio: She sees her role as the director and producer of this fashion world.

Cutler: Can you think of an aspect of the fashion industry that she isn’t
somehow involved in?

Florio [after a long pause]: No.


- Anna Wintour, through her platform as vogue's editor-in-chief, influences the creative, business, and employment process of the fashion industry

- Magazine as a means can have a huge impact on society and industries..

Sources
http://uwf.edu/dearle/enewsstand/enewsstand_files/Page4382.htm
http://tmagazine.blogs.nytimes.com/2014/08/21/vogue-magazine-list-10-most-groundbreaking-covers-in-the-history-of-vogue/?_php=true&_type=blogs&_r=0
http://www.condenast.com/brands/vogue
http://www.vogue.com/tag/photographer/annie-leibovitz/
http://www.biography.com/people/anna-wintour-214147#early-editorial-career
http://www.nytimes.com/2014/08/25/business/media/vogues-revamped-website-to-feature-faster-news-coverage-and-more-fashion-shoots-.html?_r=0
http://fashionista.com/2013/10/anna-wintour-talks-new-role-conde-nast-artistic-director
http://www.nytimes.com/2009/01/01/fashion/01ANNA.html?pagewanted=all&module=Search&mabReward=relbias%3Ar%2C%7B%222%22%3A%22RI%3A13%22%7D&_r=0
Full transcript