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EFSH4008 – Group C

Just go ahead and click on "edit", then pick one (or some!) of the visual references you've been collecting and position them in the timeline. It would be nice if you wrote something about the image as well – why did you pick it? Why do you think thi

Marilia Jardim

on 20 February 2017

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Transcript of EFSH4008 – Group C

1890-1949 Visual Recap
Alphonse Mucha
Art Nouveau painter
Gustav Klimt
Liberty dress
Smocking details
Art Deco
style buildings
Dark makeup and
short hair, inspired
by Chanel and
silent movies
dropped waistlines,
shorter skirts, free
movement for women
Suffragette movement
Slogans and info
printed on clothing
The tennis dress
women had more freedom to do what they wanted e.g sports
appropriate clothing had to be made for them
"Women must be able to move, to get into a car without bursting their seams! Clothes must have a natural shape"
- Coco Chanel

28 July 1914
11 November 1918
This 1943 poster encouraged parents to buy clothes for children in bigger sizes so they could be adjusted as the child grew.
Go Through Your Wardrobe - Make-Do and Mend, 1942.
The 'Make Do and Mend' campaign was launched to encourage people to make their existing supplies of clothes last longer.
Clothes care was a key part of the Make Do and Mend message.
Count Your Coupons before You Go Shopping
Plan Your Future, Save with a plan, 1945.
An Air Raid Precautions (ARP) volunteer applies her lipstick between emergency calls, 1940.
The government's concern for the morale of women was a major factor in the decision to continue the manufacture of cosmetics, though in much reduced quantities.
Face powder compact in the form of a US Army officer's cap.

Women walk down a London street during the Second World War in 1941.
Handbag with a gas mask compartment.
Ruby red silk gauze wedding dress, worn by Monica Maurice, 1938
The Royal Mail Line to New York poster, Horace Taylor, 1920-1925.
Elsa Schiaparelli , 1937.
Paul Poiret, 1919.
Paul Poiret, 1922
House of Worth, 1892.
House of Worth, 1896.
House of Dior, 1949.
Paul Poiret dress
Claimed to have freed
women from corsets
Narrow skirts
Paul Iribe illustration of
Poiret's dresses showing
women looking
at the old style of dress
1929- crash of the stock market
The Great Depression begins
The introduction of rationing did not make clothes cheaper. Money was still needed to buy clothing, and they were often expensive with prices rising during the war.
Every type of clothing item had the same points value regardless of quality. Wealthier shoppers could afford to buy robust clothes which would last.
The less well-off had to use the same number of coupons for a cheaper garment of the same type that might wear out in half the time.
Children's clothes had lower coupon values in recognition of the fact that they would need new clothes more often as they grew.
From 1942, all children were allocated an extra ten coupons.
The rationing scheme worked by allocating each type of clothing item a 'points' value which varied according to how much material and labour went into its manufacture.
Eleven coupons were needed for a dress.
This face powder compact in the shape of a US Army officer's cap made a popular gift for servicewomen and the wives.
Women's jacket and coat, 1934
patterns were becoming widely available and designers were beginning to copy big fashion houses,
fashion became more accessible
King Edward and Wallis Simpson
very influential people within the fashion of the 30s
were seen as celebrities, their lives and the way they dressed were seen by everyone
They took photos of their wedding a day before the actual ceremony so the public could get the photos the same day
1947 Dior New Look 'Bar Suit'
The Zoot Suit
worn mainly within the african american and latino community
seen as a rebellion against the war
these men looked luxurious and seemed to have lots of money
lots of fabric was used for them in a time where big rationing on everything was occurring
Service men would see this as disrespectful and not patriotic, lots of people were dying and sacrificing their lives, men who wore zoot suits would often be victims of harassment and humiliation by these service men
Hungary Budapest 1910,Inspired by the Art Nouveau movement (Ebony)
Norman Hartnell utility dresses
Dr Gustav Jaeger made Long johns for British and Commonwealth troops kept the during the war, but switched to fashion in the 1920s (Ebony)
Isadora Duncan - influential
1910's ballet dancer and
muse. Was seen as "exotic",
because her dancing style
was wild, free, and barefoot.
In 1927, Elsa Schiaparelli visited the Ritz hotel
dinner party wearing a knitted bow sweater and
a skirt - in contradictory of a room full of fancy
dressed people.
Zoot suit 1940-1942 (Ebony)
Famous cartoon Tom and JERRY episode "zoot cat"1944 (Ebony)
Zoot suit worn by non whites caused police brutality 1940-1942 (Ebony)
Hollywood winter frocks 1934
Illustration by Georges Barbier of a gown by Paquin(1914).Stylized floral designs and bight colours were a feature of early Art Deco.
Actress Vilma Banky wearing
cloche hat,1927
Extreme zoot suits of 1942
1940's evening dresses
inspired Madeleine Vionnet!!
Full transcript