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Contouring and Corrective Work
Transcript of Contouring and Corrective Work
Contouring is a technique that is used to change the appearance of the face or facial features by applying the make-up using special techniques. Contouring products are available in liquid, cream or powder form and consist of highlighter, shader and blusher.
NVQ Level 2 Beauty Therapy
What is Contouring?
Products used to contour
Blusher is used to define, add warmth and give the skin a healthy glow.
Highlighter is used to emphasise/draw attention to the area and should be two shades lighter than the foundation. Light pearlised products are effective highlighters, however are best avoided on mature skins or on hairy areas.
Shader is used to draw attention away from an area, therefore minimising the feature, and should be two shades darker than the foundation.
Contouring can be applied to correct eyes, face shapes, chins, jaw line and noses. It is most commonly used for photographic make-up.
If a liquid or cream product is being used it should be applied with a damp make-up wedge before loose powder is applied.
If a powder based product is being used it should be applied with the contouring brush after the loose powder has been applied. Simply brush from the outer edges of the face inwards when contouring face shapes as it will produce a more natural result. (Apply blusher at the end of the make-up).
It is important that you can decide what face shape a client has in order to decide if any corrective contouring work is needed. When deciding on the client’s face shape it is important that they are sat upright to allow you to see their face at the correct angle.
Clients with a black skin tend to have a more prominent jaw and full mouth. When applying make-up you can therefore work to emphasise the upper cheekbones and eyes.
Asian clients tend to have a more angular face shape and may need to be softened slightly. The eyes are a dominant feature and so should be emphasised.
When applying corrective work to a Black, Asian or Chinese client, you follow exactly the same principles as for a European or White skin.
Face Shape Analysis
When performing your corrective work on the different face shapes your aim is always to produce the highly desired oval shaped face. On the following pictures you will see where highlighter, shader and blusher has been applied to produce the effect of an oval shaped face.
Corrective work for face shapes
Broad nose - shade down each side of the nose taking care not to blend onto the face.
Short nose - apply highlighter down the length of the nose from the bridge to the tip.
Long nose - apply shader to the tip of the nose.
Large nose - apply shader to the nose and then subtly blend. Highlight the surrounding skin and slightly onto the sides of the nose. Keep blusher away from the nose.
Bump on the nose - apply shader to the bump on the nose.
Crooked nose - apply shader to the side that is crooked.
Corrective work for noses
Double chin - apply shader to the fullest area of the chin, underneath the chin and to the jaw line. Highlight the cheek bones to define the bone structure.
Receding chin - apply highlighter to the centre of the chin and jaw line.
Dropped contours – apply shader to the jowls.
Thick neck – apply shader to the thickness of the neck.
Corrective work for chin, jaw & neck