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MEP Collab: Perfume

MEP Collaborative Project The Creation of Perfumes

Yanisa Jakklom

on 19 August 2015

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Transcript of MEP Collab: Perfume

The Creation of Perfumes understanding sense of smell Smell is caused by one or more volatilized chemical compounds, generally at a very low concentration, that humans or other animals perceive by the sense of olfactory perception. In order for you to smell something, molecules from that thing have to make it to your nose. Everything you smell, therefore, is giving off molecules Those molecules are generally light, volatile (easy to evaporate) chemicals that float through the air into your nose. There are things that have no smell - like a piece of steel.
Steel is a non-volatile solid. It has no smell because nothing evaporates from it. PERFUME Essential Oil Extraction Fragrance Favorites Last Longer Scent Maceration / Solvent Extraction Supercritical Fluid Extraction Ethanol Extraction Distillation Steam Distillation Dry/Destructive Distillation Fractionation distillation Expression the flowers are soaked in (hot oil for maceration/solvent for solvent extraction) to have their cell membranes ruptured and the hot oil then absorbs the essence. The oil is then cleared of the botanical and decanted. the process of separating one component from another using supercritical fluids as the extracting solvent. Extraction is usually from a solid matrix, but can also be from liquids. Carbon dioxide (CO2) is the most used supercritical fluid, sometimes modified by co-solvents such as ethanol or methanol.

Extraction conditions for Supercritical carbon dioxide are above the critical temperature of 31°C and critical pressure of 74 bar. Addition of modifiers may slightly alter this. Ethanol extraction is a type of solvent extraction used to extract fragrant compounds directly from dry raw materials, as well as the impure oils or concrete resulting from organic solvent extraction.

Ethanol extracts from dry materials are called tinctures,
while ethanol washes for purifying oils and concretes are called absolutes. Distillation is a common technique for obtaining aromatic compounds from plants, such as orange blossoms and roses. The raw material is heated and the fragrant compounds are re-collected through condensation of the distilled vapor. Distilled products, whether through steam or dry distillation are known either as essential oils or ottos. Steam distillation is a special type of distillation for temperature sensitive materials like natural aromatic compounds.
Many organic compounds tend to decompose at high sustained temperatures, so water or steam is introduced into the distillation apparatus.

By adding water or steam, the boiling points of the compounds are depressed, allowing them to evaporate at lower temperatures, preferably below the temperatures at which the deterioration of the material becomes appreciable. If the substances to be distilled are very sensitive to heat, steam distillation can also be combined with vacuum distillation. After distillation the vapors are condensed as usual, usually yielding a two-phase system of water and the organic compounds, allowing for simple separation. The raw materials are directly heated in a still without a carrier solvent such as water. Fragrant compounds that are released from the raw material by the high heat often undergo anhydrous pyrolysis, which results in the formation of different fragrant compounds, and thus different fragrant notes. This method is used to obtain fragrant compounds from fossil amber and fragrant woods where an intentional "burned" or "toasted" odor is desired Through the use of a fractionation column, different fractions distilled from a material can be selectively excluded to modify the scent of the final product. Although the product is more expensive, this is sometimes performed to remove unpleasant or undesirable scents of a material and affords the perfumer more control over their composition process. Raw material is squeezed or compressed and the oils are collected. Of all raw materials, only the fragrant oils from the peels of fruits in the citrus family are extracted in this manner since the oil is present in large enough quantities as to make this extraction method economically feasible. Effleurage Absorption of aroma materials into solid fat or wax and then extraction of odorous oils with ethyl alcohol. Extraction by effleurage was commonly used when distillation was not possible because some fragrant compounds denature through high heat. This technique is not commonly used in the modern industry due to prohibitive costs and the existence of more efficient and effective extraction methods. Chamomile Clary sage Eucalyptus Lavender Lemon Lemongrass Orange EXPERIMENTAL RESULTS The BEST WAY to extract essential oil from flowers Which combination works BEST How to make the scent lasts long? are compounds added to products to improve their odor and create an aesthetic impression pure perfume oils and perfumes made with a high concentration of essential oils last longer than perfumes diluted with ethyl alcohol, water or other substances. In general, the lower concentration of fillers involved, the longer the fragrance lasts Manufacturers estimate that the scent of a perfume can last up to six hours, depending on a wearer's body chemistry Another way to make perfume scents last longer is to apply lotion before applying your perfume. A lotion having the same scent is an excellent way to make your perfume last longer. But if you don't have a matching lotion, apply an unscented lotion Scents evaporate quickly is because of dry skin. Since perfume contains alcohol, it also evaporates quickly homemade fragrances, even those kept scrupulously away from heat and light, can lose their potency fairly quickly. Fortunately, we can use a component called a fixative to solve this problem. Choosing a fixative should be based on personal preference, availability and cost, and safety concerns Common fixatives include frankincense, vetiver, benzoin, musk, orris, angelica, and calamus.
All of these substances have distinct aromas of their own In our cast, all of the combinations are added with musk 96 for the fixative. inspiration "What makes perfume a ?" What creates those that can cost for a small bottle of liquid one hundreds of dollars adorable scents how we can efficiently extract essential oils from various flowers and fruits. Can we possibly make one as well? OUR PERFUME From the experiment, the solvent
“Dimethyl Ether” seems to be the best in terms of cost-efficiency and production yield, but extraction using natural oil in a closed container is the only method that gives concentrated essential oil. CONVEYS RESULT 12 13 14 COMBINATION TOP 3
+DEB 96
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