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EFSH4008 – Group B

Just go ahead and click on "edit", then pick one (or some!) of the visual references you've been collecting and position them in the timeline. It would be nice if you wrote something about the image as well – why did you pick it? Why do you think thi

Marilia Jardim

on 15 November 2016

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Transcript of EFSH4008 – Group B

1890-1949 Visual Recap
Role of Women(Suet)
-economic dependent on men
-disable from outdoor activities
-did not have many freedom and rights in the society, e.g. freedom to vote

"New Women"(Suet)
Features: sporty, active
Factors: technological invention, i.e. invention of bicycle
Post WW1
Art (Suet)
-Became dominate because people used to express their views
-Expressionist cinema
Slient Movie
Art Deco(Suet)
-straight line
-geometrical shape
repetition of pattern
-lower waistband
-compex pattern with simple design
-less fabric was used
-Rationing:shortage of fabric
-restriction on garment making: shorter skirt
-development on Victory suit for women
-Media: magazine encouraged women to join the army due to shortage of human resources
War period

Womenwear was more simple, plainer and practical. Women had more freedom in their clothing. Some elements from menswear. (Isa)
Laws, ideas towards women are now changing, women are now allowed to go shopping and be in the city. (Isa)
1913 Lampshade silhouette, Paul Poiret (Isa)
ww1 ends, UK grants votes to women (Isa)
1914 WW1 begins (Isa)
People start following "trends", styles, fabrics from for example The Ballets Russes. People were inspired by what they saw at the ballet. (Isa)
To be active(Isa)
Bobbed hair, the dress hung from shoulder to just below the knee, unbelted, waist drop, hemline rose, long necklaces (Isa)
Change between 20s and 30s fashion has been associated with changing economic and political situation of 1930s.
Belts on the waistline, hemline dropping again.
Feminine ideal.
Fashion starts to be slim
Patterns wildly available

WW2 breaks out on 1939 (Isa)
Fashion regulated by war.
1942 war restrictions on clothes,
It was good to look like you were involved with the war.
Women became again the main workforce in factories.
Limited resources
Marilyn Monroe, Popular sex symbol of the 1950s
Femininity was in full swing, after war women started wearing dresses again instead of suits.(Isa)
WW2 ends (Isa)
The Great Depression, collapse of U.S. stock market prices on 1929 (Isa)
La Belle Epoque 1890 -1914 (Beata)
A French poster from
1894 by Jules Chéret
that captures the vibrant
spirit of the Belle Époque.
Woman wearing a dress with a bustle,
USA, about 1890 (Beata)

The Bustle
"The bustle survived into the 1890s and early 20th century as a skirt support was still needed and the stylish shape dictated a curve in the back of the skirt to balance the curve of the bust in front. The bustle had completely disappeared by 1905, as the long corset of the early 20th century was now successful in shaping the body to protrude behind." (Beata)
Types of bustles (Beata)
Flatiron Building (1902) New York City, New York - the tallest building in the world at the time of its construction.(Beata)
Eiffel Tower
Constructed from 1887–89 as the entrance to the 1889 World's Fair.

Bodice Mlle L. Guiquin (1895 USA)

Embroidered silk satin with metal beads, trimmed with sequined net, lined with silk and whalebone

Enormous sleeves swell out from the bodice of this day dress. They create an exaggerated shoulder line and emphasise the smallness of the wearer’s waist. Known as ‘gigot’ (‘leg-of-mutton’) sleeves, they were highly fashionable between 1894 and 1896 when women adopted them for all types of activities and occasions. The basic shape was similar to that of sleeves during the 1830s. Like those sleeves they rapidly diminished in size after a few years
. (Beata)
Change in Menswear(Suet)
Features: femininity, loose fit, less padding, light weight fabric, more embroidery
e.g. lounge suit for middle class, frok coat(morning coat)for upper class
Dior - New Look
Paul Poiret (1913)
Wool and chiffon

This wool and chiffon mantle draw on a range of
artistic and stylistic influences to emphasize the close relationship between art and fashion in the period. Poiret combines the vivid colours of Fauvism with the exoticism of the East in a garment based on a deconstructed kimono
Fashion plate
Les Choses de Paul Poiret vues par Georges Lepape

- This collection looked back at female oppression.
- Women thought it was a threat to their freedom.
- updated version of the Victorian style dresses.
- It was a representation of peaceful times.
- The inspiration for is collection came the Belle Epoque era.

(Cornesha H)

House of Worth
c. 1909

This long evening mantle made of purple silk, is embroidered with flowers in shades of pink, blue, white and green. It has a dark blue velvet band on the front and at both wrists. The mantle is gathered at the front and at the back where a flower made of purple silk is applied.

The mantle shows the influence of Fauvism and Japonism had on colours and fashion styles during this period. Another powerful influence on fashion was Les Ballets Russes, with their Oriental-inspired themes and costumes. Evening mantles, such as this one, would become increasing fashionable especially during the early 1920s, when the public responded to the rage for anything Oriental.
Fashion in the 1920s was dominated by the
look. Straight and waistless, the style was modern and liberating. Delicate silk and chiffon became popular for underwear while girdles and bandeaux bras were worn to smooth the figure into the desired boyish shape. Hair was cropped short and close-fitting cloche hats became popular. Couture houses such as Callot Soeurs and
created evening dresses in light fabrics, worn with long strings of beads. And as skirts became shorter, shoes were a focal point: silver and gold glace kid was popular for evening wear

The fashion for rich and sensuous detail continued with fringed shawls, dresses embroidered in the Chinese style and evening coats trimmed with fur.
Zoot Suit
Chanel no. 5
Art Deco
, is a style of visual arts, architecture and design that first appeared in France just before World War I.It became popular in the 1920s and 1930s, and influenced the design of buildings, furniture, jewelry, fashion, cars, movie theaters, trains, ocean liners, and everyday objects such as radios and vacuum cleaners.
"The Musician"
Tamara de Lempicka
oil on canvas (Beata)
- Worn mainly by young, underclass non white young men.
- Emphasised freedom of movement.
- Big features was a display of wealth.
-Resisting war by not joining the army
- Targets for police brutality.
- ' when you oppose tradition there will be back lash from society.'

(Cornesha H)
Marriage of Wallis Simpson and Prince Edward on 3 June 1937 at the Château de Candé in France.
Elsa Schiaparelli
Wedding dress of Wallis Simpson
Edward VIII abdication crisis
"The Lobster Dress"
Elsa Schiaparelli
Evening coat
Elsa Schiaparelli
Autumn 1937

This coat depicts a profusion of roses in an urn, which can also be viewied as two faces in profile: the double image held a particular fascination for Surrealist artists. The embroidery is by the Paris house of Lesage, after draving by Jean Cocteau

Many fashion houses closed during the occupation of Paris during World War II, including the Maison Vionnet and the Maison Chanel (Beata)
The Persistence of Memory
Salvador Dali
End of World War II
Untility suit
The Cabinet of Dr. Caligaris(Expressionist Cinema)
-Dark Make-up inspiration
The little black dress
Chanel 1924 (Zafeiria)

Technological Changes
-Breasts are being into cups(Bras)
-Elastic Fabrics

Fedora Hat (Zafeiria)
women's clothing in 1890(Margarita)
chanel total black look(Margarita)
Mass Production in Fashion between 1930-1939
dior new look.first press coverage of fashion(Margarita)

Ballet Russes
-everyone is talking about that
-Artistic Dresses
-New Fabrics and Colours
-Designers being interested in Asia and oriental cultures(exotic)
Art Nouveau Movement
-Liberal Art
-Abolishing Hierarchy
-Decorative Art
-Escape Historical Motives
-Organic and Geometrical Inspirations

Women Wearing corsets
Health problems from wearing corsets

Cigarettes for Women Advertisment
-Women Smoke (Zafeiria)
Women Wearing Red lipstick
They need to be pretty even in the times of War
Art Nouveau in Architecture and Decoration(Furnitures)

1919 - Georges Lepape
smoking was the norm, as a sign of glamour and independence for women

1895 summer corset (Larissa)

1910 Paul Poiret designs (Larissa)
1920s Louise Brooks - Orientalism (Larissa)
1920-1929 Art Deco Table
1937 Ready-to-wear suits from Sears

1916-1918 woman's Motor Corps of American uniform // 1917 Munition factory Girl poster

Industrial Revolution
Coco Chanel vintage fashion shows
Art Nouveau
Jackson Pollock
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