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Transcript of STREET WEAR
HANNAH TAN-LUCY FAUR-
KELSEY KILLAM-SABRINA LAMHENE
INTRODUCTION: ANALYSIS OF THE PRODUCT
ORIGINS OF STREETWEAR
HISTORY OF STREETWEAR
STREETWEAR IN FASHION
KEY PLAYERS IN THE INDUSTRY
FINISHED PRODUCT TRADESHOWS
OUR SHOE:SLIP ONS WITH GRAFFITI GRAPHIC:
Streetwear is influenced by popular art, music, politics, culture.
The new street wear look of is an amalgamation of history
Streetwear is a more casual alternative to menswear, that encourages personal style.
combining the ethos of the 60s, the skater influence of the 80s, and the current menswear focus on lasting quality and timeless style.
-combines smart cuts and tailoring with street wear pieces
OUR SEGMENT: STREETWEAR
COMFORT, ART,EASY, FREE, DYNAMIC
FREE MOVEMENT, FREEDOM, DYNAMIC, SELF-EXPRESSION,ANTI-ESTABLISHMENT SKATE/SURF/GRAFFITI CULTURE, MUSIC, LIFESTYLE
" Me and my friends don't put much money into clothes. We don't want to look like we're trying to hard, you know, be garish and trendy." - Shawn Stussy
ORIGINS OF STREETWEAR
STREET STYLE 101
T-SHIRT1980 signed t-shirts. Surfer Shawn Stüssy printed himself t-shirts and sols them at Newport beach California.
1972 t-shirt with printed logos Ocean Pacific by Jim Henks . Rip Curl, Quicksilver founded in 1969.
TSHIRTS ARE A STAPLE OF STREET WEAR
KNITTED COTTONS WITH LOGOED FRONTS AND GRAPHICS ARE THE MOST COMMON
T-SHIRTS ARE LOOSE TO VERY BAGGY ALLOWING FOR COMFORT, FREEDOM OF MOVEMENT, AND EXECUTION OF SPORTS
IN WARMER CLIMATES AND DURING SUMMER MONTHS, TANK TOPS ARE WORN WITH THE SAME STYLE AND CONSTRUCTION
1. T-SHIRTS and TANKS
100% fleece cotton, an alternative to the t-shirt during colder weather
2.SWEATSHIRT and HOODIE
DURABLE THICK KNITTED COTTONS ARE THE TYPICAL FABRICS WITH LOOSE TO BAGGY FITS TO ALLOW COMFORT AND MOVEMENT
TYPICALLY ZIP FRONT TO ALLOW FOR EASIER LAYERING
LARGE LOGOED FRONTS WITH GRAPHICS
Surf culture celebrates an easy going, carefree lifestyle, and surfers follow the waves wherever they go.
Dedication and perfectionism are also qualities that surfers bring to what many have traditionally regarded as a commitment to a lifestyle as well as a sport.
Surfers have veered from even this beaten path, and foregone the traditional goals of first world culture in the hunt for a continual 'stoke', harmony with life, their surfing, and the ocean
Surfing, as a sport, is heavily dependent on a healthy environment. As a result, interest groups have blossomed to influence the utilization of coastal properties relevant to surfing.
Common to most disputes are two issues, disposal of sewage and toxic waste into near shore waters and the formation of harbors, breakwaters and jetties.
Sewage and toxic waste almost always affects mammals in a negative way. Coastal construction and engineering projects can have either good or bad effects on surf breaks.
• While skating is about having the possibility of doing endless tricks, punk music expressed this desire of being free and independent and it shouted out the needs of a generation.
• An interesting thing is that anyone can try to skateboard and skateboarding is for everyone
Nevertheless, skateboarding is not about looking cool, but more about hanging with your friends, having a good time and evolving at your own pace.
Skateboarding is about danger and facing it, fulfilling your pride, going beyond your own limits.
The developments in skateboarding: boards, decks producers, shoe ware, clothing, etc. All these brought together different types of people, of characters under a single name: Skater.
Passionate skateboarders decided to create their own skateboard production system. This helped skateboarders do more daring and new stunts, which attracted the youth.
skateboarding has become more than a trend. It has become a lifestyle.
Skateboarding even has its own sub cultures
Whereas traditional graffiti artists have primarily used free-hand aerosol paints to produce their works,
"street art" encompasses many other media and techniques, including: LED art, mosaic tiling, murals, stencil art, sticker art, "Lock On" street sculptures, street installations, wood blocking, video projection, and yarn bombing.
New media forms of graffiti, such as projection onto large city buildings, are an increasingly popular tool for street artists
Nevertheless, street art is a label often adopted by artists who wish to keep their work unaffiliated and strongly political.
For these reasons street art is sometimes considered "post-graffiti" and sometimes even "neo-graffiti."Street art can be found around the world and street artists often travel to other countries foreign to them so they can spread their designs.
Traditional graffiti also has increasingly been adopted as a method for advertising; its trajectory has even in some cases led its artists to work on contract as graphic artists for corporations.
GRAPHIC DESIGN ON PRINT MEDIA
Hiphop has transformed into a billion dollar international industry and pillar of pop culture.
Other genres of music borrow from and integrate into hip-hop. branching off into several other areas of electronic music, and today it manifests itself in the wildly popular dubstep movement.
.Even hip hop fashion has evolved from bling to a more sophisticated tailored style, because of the influence of key hip hop artists such as Kanye West who brought fashion to the forefront.
Punk music has evolved from angry, garage rock, into a combination anti-establishment sentiments and an remodeling of retro influences
Today, indie-rock/electro-pop/techno music has incorporated a spectrum of different music genres(even hip hop) and is often related with the “hipster subculture” and the “coachella lifestyle”
This subculture is associated with independent music, a varied non-mainstream fashion sensibility, liberal political views, and alternative lifestyles. Interests in media include independent film, underground music, contemporary art, and political activism.
"hipsterism fetishizes the authentic elements of all of the fringe movements of the postwar era—beat, hip-hop, hippie, punk, even grunge," and draws on the "cultural stores of every un-melted ethnicity," and "regurgitates it with a winking inauthenticity."
Surfing became synonymous with a relaxed beach lifestyle in which many teens in California and Australia indulged
By the 50’s, the teens of the world were ready to forget about WWII and escape reality, surfing boomed internationally, Biarritz was the surf capitol of Europe
Stereotype of the ‘beach bum’ formed and surfing became a lifestyle for many youth internationally
1924 Tartan flannel , 40 years later worn as jacket over the t-shirts
FLANNEL COTTON PLAIDS ARE FREQUENTLY WORN OVER T-SHIRTS WHEN AND WHERE TEMPERATURES ARE MORE MILD
IN COLDER WEATHER, JACKETS MADE OF DUFFLE MATERIAL REPLACE FLANNELS AS THE OUTERWEAR OF CHOICE
3.JACKETS AND OVERSHIRTS
BASEBALL CAPS ORIGINATED IN NYC IN 1860
‘TRUCKER HATS’ ARE VERY COMMON, WITH MESH SIDES AND A SYNTHETIC FRONT TYPICALLY WITH THE BRAND LOGO OR BOLD GRAPHICS AND COLOURS
ANOTHER STYLE IS THE BEANIE, WHICH IS MADE FROM THICK KNITTED WOOL OR COTTON
5.TRUCKER CAPS AND BEANIES
The 1980’s were when hip-hop and RAP (Rhythmic American Poetry) were first showcased in the mainstream, known as ‘the golden years’ of hip hop and rap
Subgenres gangsta rap and hip-hop with groups NWA (Niggas Wit Attitude) and Run-D.M.C. respectively tackled issues of reality for working-class black Americans
Rap and hip-hop genres were described as ‘black America’s CNN’
1980’S MUSIC: RAP AND HIP HOP
By the 40s and 50s surfers in California were looking for something to surf on when the waves were flat
Started with wooden boxes or boards with roller skate wheels attached to the bottom
1965 creation of Skateboarder magazine, world championships broadcast on national US television
Boys of Zephyr surf shop started to skate walls is swimming pools during 1976 California drought (z boys) this sparked huge popularity into the 80s of vert skateboarding
Culture: popularized by 1986 skateboarding cult classic Thrashin'
Image of a skateboarder is rebellious, non-conforming youth, this image is slowly fading
1960’S AND 1970’S SKATEBOARDING
Street wear today has formed out of a number of subcultures and movements that have evolved from each other. These subcultures are mainly composed of youth, the most significant influences are:
Invented in Hawaii evolving from Polynesian board sport
Earliest accounts come from explorers in the late 18th century, noting the sophistication of surfing within the culture
Died down when missionaries from Europe came in 1820
1907 brought to U.S. by George Steeth
1915 brought to Australia by Hawaiian, Duke Kahanamoku
HISTORY OF STREETWEAR
DENIM JEANS: 1950 the denim jeans were adopted to city wear.
CHINO PANTS: Adopted by the skaters, initial color beige cotton
OFTEN DENIM, OR OTHER DURABLE WOVEN FABRICS SUCH AS COTTON KHAKIS
DOUBLE TOPSTITCHING AND EXTRA RIVETS ARE OFTEN ADDED FOR ADDITIONAL DURABILITY
PANTS ARE LOOSE TO BAGGY
4.PANTS: CHINO PANTS AND DENIM
"The culture of streetwear and urban fashion has not only risen to join the mainstream fashion styles but it has also risen anew, over and over, in the last 30 years. The desire amongst youth culture to have its own style has constantly driven this broad style genre to sub-divide and re-invent itself."
United States Canada
STREETWEAR INDUSTRY KEY PLAYERS
1990’s saw rise and spread of graffiti art, no longer associated with inner city youth
Youth used graffiti to show rejection of values and morals pressured on them, attempting to break free from a culture of materialism and consumption
Graphic arts movement began in NYC when a group of likeminded outsiders from subcultures of skateboarding, surf, punk, hip hop & graffiti found common ground in art they made together reflecting their lifestyle
Their craft developed with little influence from mainstream society and began a movement that has been transforming pop culture
1990’s-2000’s Graffiti and Graphic Arts
Men prices in outerwear increased 1,6% in 2011
Women prices decreased 3,1% in 2011
PRICE VARIATIONS IN OUTERWEAR
Source Xerfi 2010
+/- 8 billion eur in France
24 billion eur France, Germany and England
Sport activities practiced outside
14,3 billion eur in Europe in 2009 (-1%2008)
Competitive market (emergence of multi brand companies
39,5 billion eur worldwide in 2010
10,7 billion eur in Europe in 2010 (+1%2009)
Milion eur Growth Volume Growth Million eur Growth Volume Growth
Women & girls outerwear
Men & boys outerwear
From 2009 to 2010 the men outerwear consumption increased about 1,1%
In 2011 it decrease about 1,5%
The women consumption decreased in 2011 0,2%
CONSUMPTION OF THE HOUSEHOLDS IN OUTERWEAR
TRADE SHOWS: FINISHED PRODUCT TRADESHOWS
Urbanwear, streetwear, denim, function wear, casual wear and sports lifestyle.
Who's Next - Mr Brown
Bread & Butter Berlin
WWD Magic, Las Vegas
TRADESHOWS: TEXTILE TRADESHOWS
Première Vision displaying fabrics and new trends (FRANCE)
Indigo textile designs, prints, embroideries
ZOOM by FATEX, manufacturers
Expofil the international fair for yarns and fibers
Brands and retailers can increase sales within the growing active wear market by meeting consumers need for comfort, fit and performance
97% of the consumer would prefer a cotton alternative with the same performance features as synthetic active apparel.
NOT JUST FOR SPORT 93% of the consumers also wear their athletic apparel for activities other than exercising
ATHLETIC APPAREL INDUSTRY IN AMERICA
The global sportswear market 2012
+ 7,5% - US$244 billion
+ 6% sales value growth
The largest sportswear market US$80 billion
The second ranked sportswear market is China
Highest growth Russia, Ukraine and Argentina
ATHLETIC APPAREL INDUSTRY 2012
BOARD SPORTS TRADESHOWS
Graphics are most often a graphic art interpretation of the brand’s logo, or symbol, or something which represents the values held by its’ wearer.
Other times, graphics may represent nothing and be very abstract or unique.
Colours for streetwear are very bright and eye catching, usually put together in interesting and dynamic combinations
COLOURS AND GRAPHICS
WOVEN— denim, jeans and jackets
WOVEN— pants e.g. khakis
KNITTED— t-shirts and tank tops
REETWEAR SILHOUETTES ARE INSPIRED BY THE INDIVIDUAL SUBCULTURES WITHIN, OFTEN THEY CAN BE A MIX AND MATCH OF THE DIFFERENT STYLES
Interest in music
Active in board sports
VIVID will be segmented in between skate and graphic arts, combining the comfort and dynamic athleticism aspect of skate wear with the creative self-expression of graphic arts
The brand will cater to the needs of both streetwear subcultures by marrying functionality with an art form.
The brand will feature versatile fabrics (like cotton and denim, with easy silhouettes, to provide a variety of choices to cater to the skate lifestyle)
STREETWEAR TRENDS 2013
Nineties grunge and skateboarder style is set to make yet another comeback this spring/summer, but this time there are interesting twists that help bring the look firmly into 2013. Aertex fabrics, oversized silhouettes and creative layering are key components, and this look can take you from autumn/winter right into high summer with the correct wardrobe evolution.
In 2008 60 stores worldwide
Internet own site & multi brand sites
Multi brand stores (sportswear)
Department stores (California lifestyle)
Online Multibrand stores
Department stores (Nordstrom) – mainly US and UK
Online multibrand stores
In 2012: 310 DOS and 460 partner stores
Americas: 272 stores
Europe: 40 stores
Asia Pacific: 2 DOS and 500 partner stores
North and South America
In 2011: 838 DOS worldwide
2 types of Quiksilver DOS
Online multibrand stores
Department stores (Corners)
Outlets (Zumiez, the Fells Point Surf Company or the Ron Jon Surf Shop)
Authentic skate culture
21 € 23 € 22 €
59 € 61 € 57 € 55 € 38 € 28 €
27 € 17 € 25 € 49 € 91 €
Sweaters & Fleece
Hats & Beanies
22 € 38 €
92 € 30 €
Surf wear, snowboarding wear, swimwear
Urban men, women and children’ s wear
19 € 19 € 19 €
34 € 15 € 11 €
Backpacks & Bags
41 € 42 € 34 € 53 €
16 € 21 € 38 € 33 € 42 € 53 € 26 €
42 € 57 € 47 € 68 € 72 € 21 €
Women: shoes, clothes, accessories
Kids: shoes, clothes, accessories
Stüssy is a clothing brand started in the early 1980s by Shawn Stüssy in California.
He mixed the musical influences from this time (rock, punk,, hiphop) with the graphisme of the street art.
The streetwear industry is growing and is becoming more relevant within the menswear industry ( evident in spring summer 2013 trends)
The demand for mens active wear is growing, and there is a niche segment in street wear that isn't catered to by the current market.
VIVID will feature the works of talented underground artists further merging the world of graphic arts and fashion. Through this differentiation, VIVID will have an authentic connection with skate culture, and underground street art lifestyle
VIVID will be differentiated from the competition by uniting creative self expression through graphic design and skate functionality.