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Mulberry Team

on 18 March 2013

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Transcript of A/600/1791

Leather The varieties available to us
and their many applications Now we know the different animals used, let's look at how those hides can be grouped... Processes and Finishes Splitting and Skiving Embossing Leather Grain Semi - Aniline Aniline Leather Different Animals Exotic Leathers Common Leathers Varieties Cow, Calf
& Goat
Sheep Ostrich
Alligator & Crocodile
Stingray This leather is somewhere in-between the two, it may have a light surface coating yet still retain a natural appearance.

This leather is more durable because of the surface coating which contains a small amount of pigment. This ensures consistent colour and imparts some stain resistance. Different animals produce hides with different grains, the grain is the unique surface pattern that characterizes the leather.

The grain can be left intact before applying the surface coating.

The grain can be abraded to remove imperfections before the surface coating is applied. At this point a decorative grain pattern could be embossed into the surface. is the process of splitting the leather into two or more layers to reduce the thickness or to create a thinner leather that can be embossed or manipulated into a certain design. Leather that is embossed or printed with a raised pattern either imitating or resembling the grain pattern of some animal, or being quite unrelated to a natural grain pattern.
Laser Cutting There are so many different types of leather in the market today and these are produced from different types of animal skins used to make leather. Some leather is lighter and more flexible, while other leather is stiff and has an entirely different look.

Let’s examine the different types of leather and their uses. Here are just a few of the many animals we use to create different leathers. Cow & Calf
Snake Crocodile & Alligator Camel
These hides are known for their smoothness. They are also soft to the touch and silky. The leather is exceptional because of their durability, toughness, fine grain and strength.

Goat/cattle leather is commonly used by many designers because of their qualities. The wallet and purses produced with this type of leather are sleek, beautiful, attractive, stylish and appealing than some other wallets produced with other animal’s skin. Cow, Calf & Goat Skin Leather Benefits Uses Cow & Calf Leather...what's the difference? Calf leather is thinner and has a finer grain, this does not necessarily mean a better quality leather but it would mean the the likelihood of faults and marks to the hide is significantly reduced. Calf Hide Chair
£1,363.20 Alexa giraffe-print calf hair satchel
£2,500.00 Pig Leather Pig skin is naturally thin and supple, they have fewer and coarser hairs when compared to cowhide and can leave a slightly dotty finish to the leather's surface. Benefits Uses Pig leather is most commonly found in shoes and in the linings of products as suede. Pigskin is cheap and easily available in most countries. It is lighter that other suede made of Cow. Due to low price it is easier to market and sell and profit margins are comparatively high. Pig Leather and Suede In the tanning process, different chemicals can be used to change the feel and appearance of the leather. Suede is the under side of the skin and is consequently a different texture to the top side. Suede can be produced from all leathers no just pig. Pig suede, the underside of the leather Hard, firm saddle made from top side of pig leather Bi - product dog chew These leathers are all bi - products of
food production, when an animal is killed pretty much all of it will be used for another product. Ostrich Leather Even these are exotic leathers and much more expensive, they are still bi - products of
food production: when an animal is killed pretty much all of it will be used for another product. Ostrich leather is the result of tanning skins taken from African ostriches farmed for their feathers, skin and meat. The leather is distinctive for its pattern of bumps or vacant quill follicles, ranged across a smooth field in varying densities. It requires an intricate, specialist and expensive production process making it costly as well as beautiful. Kangaroo Leather The unique structure of kangaroo leather allows it to be cut down to a very thin substance yet still retain strength. It has the strongest leather fiber structure readily available.

Kangaroo leather is also popular in manufacture of motorbike leathers and is used to make a wide variety of other applications such as car upholstery, military boots, soccer cleats and fashion accessories.

Kangaroo leather is the material of choice for whip makers as the strips can be cut thin to keep the whip flexible, without sacrificing durability. Reptile Leather Reptile leather seems to cause a big response in people even though these animals are still killed for their meat and the leather is just a bi-product. These leathers are highly textured and patterned and are costly due to the normally small and awkward size of the hide. Mulberry does not have a reptile skin bag in their current collection but they are currently testing crocodile skin for a future design. Furthermore most products you see today described as snake or crocodile skin are normally just embossed cowhide to give the impression of scales. Mulberry Mabel snakeskin bag
£876 Stingray Leather Believe it or not, stingray leather has become quite popular in recent years due it's exotic background and unusual surface texture. The leather's surface is covered in what looks like tiny sequins, producing a very shiny, eye catching material. Unfortunately it does retain a slight fishy smell and is very expensive due to the rareness of the animal as well as the size of skin. Consequently stingray leather is often used for wallets and small accessories. Camel, Ox and Buffalo Leather Camel leather has 10 times more fibres per square centimetre than cow hide As a result, you get a leather that is extremely durable and extremely tough, with a higher tear strength than normal leather. Although cow hide is smoother, it is said that camel leather has more character. Buffalo leather “grain” is more pronounced. The fibers are thicker and more widely-spaced when compared to cowhide, it also differs from cowhide in thickness and flexibility. Because of it's durability and flexibility it makes it a perfect material to use in furniture upholstery. Ox hides do not differ greatly from cow hides other than you may be able to produce a bigger hide from an ox. Ox leather Converse
£50 Mulberry 'Alexa'
Bag £895 Leather can normally be divided into three groups: Aniline leather is the most natural looking, with the hide's natural unique surface still visible.

Aniline leather is coloured only with dye and not with a surface coating of polymer and pigment. This means that the leather is prone to staining as it does not have a protective layer.

However, a light surface coating may be applied to enhance its appearance and offer slight protection against spillages and soiling. Pigmented (protected leather) Pigmented leather is the most durable and is used in the majority of furniture upholstery and almost all car upholstery.

The durability is provided by a polymer surface coating which contains pigments. This surface coating allows the manufacturer more control over the properties of the leather, e.g. resistance to scuffing or fading.

The thickness of the surface coating can vary but if the mean thickness is more than 0.15mm then the product can't be sold as leather in the United Kingdom due to consumer protection legislation. There are some other things you should know about leather types... As well as the different hides available and their applications, there are some other processes that can change the leather's characteristics... is the process of thinning specific areas of the leather using machine that uses abrasive rollers to remove layers of the leather. This is so the leather is more manageable and pattern pieces are easier to stitch together. Splitting Skiving Mulberry use both of these techniques. Mulberry 'Bayswater'
Bag with mock crocodile embossing Printing Leather can also be printed on, this can be used in combination with embossing too. Mulberry 'Alexa' Bag with fur print This is the process of using a laser cutter to cut out a pattern in the leather. The laser cutter can also engrave into the leather. Mulberry Laser Cut 'Flower Tote' Bag
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