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May24SlowFashionFinal

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Crystal Grover

on 28 May 2013

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Transcript of May24SlowFashionFinal

Slow Fashion | Tailoring a Strategic Approach towards Sustainability > Background
> What is Slow Fashion?
> Purpose & Research Questions
> Methods
> Phase 1 - FSSD
> Phase 2 - Leverage Points
> Phase 3 - Recommendations
> Phase 4 - Slow Fashion Principles
> Further Research Agenda 24 May 2010 Ecosphere Society Fashion System Slow Fashion Fast Fashion Second hand
Vintage Sustainable Eco
Green Haute
Courture Home
Made Purpose &
Research Questions Methods Leverage Points { Slow Fashion is a decelerated movement inspired by the Slow Food experience where the consumer assumes a new role of 'co-producer' in the supply chain. It aims to meet fundamental human needs such as creativity, identity and participation while allowing for the earth's natural regeneration. Strengthen the movement’s journey to sustainability by ensuring that its approach is strategic. *Here, strengthen means to UNIFY, move collectively towards sustainability & have a common vision* 1> What does the FSSD reveal about the Slow Fashion movement &
its move towards sustainability?

2> How can Leverage Points be used to strengthen Slow Fashion's
contribution to a sustainable society?
a. How is each Leverage Points being used?
b. What are the barriers or gaps preventing the success of each LP?

3> Based on the above findings, what strategic recommendations can
be made to the Slow Fashion movement? How can a Strategic Sustainable Development (SSD) approach be used to strengthen the Slow Fashion movement and ensure that it is moving strategically towards sustainability? Primary Research Question Secondary Research Questions System

Success



Strategic
Guidelines

Actions

Tools 12, 11, 10, 9 ,8 ,7 ,6 ,5 ,4 ,3 ,2 ,1 least effective most effective
Is it a step in the right direction with respect to the vision?
Is it a ‘flexible platform’ for future improvement?
Is it likely to produce a sufficient return on investment? Recommendations 1 2 3 Co-create Slow Fashion Principles Establish a Slow Fashion network Create a Slow Fashion Label Intended for any player in the Slow Fashion movement that wishes to facilitate the growth of the movement. It will build local relationships and global interconnectedness. FSSD System Level + Inspired by Leverage Points 4 & 6 > To distinguish Slow Fashion in the market and add credibility
> Build off current schemes
> Certified by an independent third-party
> Globally accessible
> Easily recognized by co-producers
> Be financially affordable for small brands and designers Inspired by Leverage Points 5 & 6 Efficiency standards are working to ensure
> Water consumption is reduced
> Waste water is filtered from dyehouses

Barrier
> Certifications can be costly making it
unaccessible for small producers
(as 5 have indicated on our survey) 11 10 8 6 5 4 3 2 constants
PARAMETERS
& numbers BUFFERS - the sizes of stabilizing stocks relative to their flows the STRUCTURE of material stocks and flows NEGATIVE feedback loops (balancing) INFORMATION flow RULES - punishments, constraints, incentives The power to add, change, evolve or SELF-ORGANIZE system structure system GOALS the MINDSET the system arises from Phase 2 Phase 1 Phase 3 > Disconnected initiatives all over the world
> Aware of connection to ecological & social systems:
"empower women in rural village"
"to reduce textile waste by upcycling"
"to develop a sustainable lifestyle culture" (survey)
> Not 'officially' recognized, it is grassroots No vision means they are UNABLE TO BACKCAST, so they are not acting strategically. Asian Floor Wage alliance, Labour behind the Label, Clean Clothes Campaign, Eco Fashion World, Eco Chic Fashion Show, Slow Fashion Australia, Slow Lab, Social Alterations High Fashion (School) Workshops, Nordic Intiative Clean and Ethical, Slow Textiles, Upcycling initiatives, Take back programs, GOODONE, Project Rejeaneration, Make Do Mend, Platform 21's Repair Manifesto, Otto Von Busch's Self Passage, Kate Fletcher's books and consultancy and local wisdom and lifetimes!, 5WAYS, The Uniform Project, The Sartorialist, The OrangOrang Project, Aid to Artisans, Project Rejeneration, Burdastyle, Sew Op, Organic Cotton Exchange, Our Social Fabric, Sweat Shop Paris, Better Cotton Intiative, Global Organic Cotton Community, Think Act Vote, Fashion Evolution, Slow Fashion Forward, Clean Up Fashion, The Environmental Justice Foundation's Pop Up Shops, Forum for the Future, Keep and Share, Knit Chics, Stitch n Bitch, Luna Mano, Clothing Swaps & Swishing, Pants to Poverty, Knitting Circles, Permacouture, Fashion takes Action, The Designers Accord, The Garment Remake Exchange, Remade In Leeds, Sew Op's Asian Floor Wage alliance, Labour behind the Label, Clean Clothes Campaign, Eco Fashion World, Eco Chic Fashion Show, Slow Fashion Australia, Slow Lab, Social Alterations High Fashion (School) Workshops, Nordic Intiative Clean and Ethical, Slow Textiles, Upcycling initiatives, Take back programs, GOODONE, Project Rejeaneration, Make Do Mend, Platform 21's Repair Manifesto, Otto Von Busch's Self Passage, Kate Fletcher's books and consultancy and local wisdom and lifetimes!, 5WAYS, The Uniform Project, The Sartorialist, The OrangOrang Project, Aid to Artisans, Project Rejeneration, Burdastyle, Sew Op, Organic Cotton Exchange, Our Social Fabric, Sweat Shop Paris, Better Cotton Intiative, Global Organic Cotton Community, Think Act Vote, Fashion Evolution, Slow Fashion Forward, Clean Up Fashion, The Environmental Justice Foundation's Pop Up Shops, Forum for the Future, Keep and Share, Knit Chics, Stitch n Bitch, Luna Mano, Clothing Swaps & Swishing, Pants to Poverty, Knitting Circles, Permacouture, Fashion takes Action, The Designers Accord, The Garment Remake Exchange, Remade In Leeds, Sew Op's Asian Floor Wage alliance, Labour behind the Label, Clean Clothes Campaign, Eco Fashion World, Eco Chic Fashion Show, Slow Fashion Australia, Slow Lab, Social Alterations High Fashion (School) Workshops, Nordic Intiative Clean and Ethical, Slow Textiles, Upcycling initiatives, Take back programs, GOODONE, Project Rejeaneration, Make Do Mend, Platform 21's Repair Manifesto, Otto Von Busch's Self Passage, Kate Fletcher's books and consultancy and local wisdom and lifetimes!, 5WAYS, The Uniform Project, The Sartorialist, The OrangOrang Project, Aid to Artisans, Project Rejeneration, Burdastyle, Sew Op, Organic Cotton Exchange, Our Social Fabric, Sweat Shop Paris, Better Cotton Intiative, Global Organic Cotton Community, Think Act Vote, Fashion Evolution, Slow Fashion Forward, Clean Up Fashion, The Environmental Justice Foundation's Pop Up Shops, Forum for the Future, Keep and Share, Knit Chics, Stitch n Bitch, Luna Mano, Clothing Swaps & Swishing, Pants to Poverty, Knitting Circles, Permacouture, Fashion takes Action, The Designers Accord, The Garment Remake Exchange, Remade In Leeds, Sew Op's Asian Floor Wage alliance, Labour behind the Label, Clean Clothes Campaign, Eco Fashion World, Eco Chic Fashion Show, Slow Fashion Australia, Slow Lab, Social Alterations High Fashion (School) Workshops, Nordic Intiative Clean and Ethical, Slow Textiles, Upcycling initiatives, Take back programs, GOODONE, Project Rejeaneration, Make Do Mend, Platform 21's Repair Manifesto, Otto Von Busch's Self Passage, Kate Fletcher's books and consultancy and local wisdom and lifetimes!, 5WAYS, The Uniform Project, The Sartorialist, The OrangOrang Project, Aid to Artisans, Project Rejeneration, Burdastyle, Sew Op, Organic Cotton Exchange, Our Social Fabric, Sweat Shop Paris, Better Cotton Intiative, Global Organic Cotton Community, Think Act Vote, Fashion Evolution, Slow Fashion Forward, Clean Up Fashion, The Environmental Justice Foundation's Pop Up Shops, Forum for the Future, Keep and Share, Knit Chics, Stitch n Bitch, Luna Mano, Clothing Swaps & Swishing, Pants to Poverty, Knitting Circles, Permacouture, Fashion takes Action, The Designers Accord, The Garment Remake Exchange, Remade In Leeds, Sew Op's Asian Floor Wage alliance, Labour behind the Label, Clean Clothes Campaign, Eco Fashion World, Eco Chic Fashion Show, Slow Fashion Australia, Slow Lab, Social Alterations High Fashion (School) Workshops, Nordic Intiative Clean and Ethical, Slow Textiles, Upcycling initiatives, Take back programs, GOODONE, Project Rejeaneration, Make Do Mend, Platform 21's Repair Manifesto, Otto Von Busch's Self Passage, Kate Fletcher's books and consultancy and local wisdom and lifetimes!, 5WAYS, The Uniform Project, The Sartorialist, The OrangOrang Project, Aid to Artisans, Project Rejeneration, Burdastyle, Sew Op, Organic Cotton Exchange, Our Social Fabric, Sweat Shop Paris, Better Cotton Intiative, Global Organic Cotton Community, Think Act Vote, Fashion Evolution, Slow Fashion Forward, Clean Up Fashion, The Environmental Justice Foundation's Pop Up Shops, Forum for the Future, Keep and Share, Knit Chics, Stitch n Bitch, Luna Mano, Clothing Swaps & Swishing, Pants to Poverty, Knitting Circles, Permacouture, Fashion takes Action, The Designers Accord, The Garment Remake Exchange, Remade In Leeds, Sew Op's Asian Floor Wage alliance, Labour behind the Label, Clean Clothes Campaign, Eco Fashion World, Eco Chic Fashion Show, Slow Fashion Australia, Slow Lab, Social Alterations High Fashion (School) Workshops, Nordic Intiative Clean and Ethical, Slow Textiles, Upcycling initiatives, Take back programs, GOODONE, Project Rejeaneration,
and local wisdom and lifetimes!, 5WAYS, The Uniform Project, The Sartorialist, The OrangOrang Project, Aid to Artisans, Project Rejeneration, Burdastyle, Sew Op, Organic Cotton Exchange, Our Social Fabric,
Sweat Shop Paris, Better Cotton Intiative, Global Organic Cotton Community, Think Act Vote, Fashion Evolution, Slow Fashion Forward, Clean Up Fashion, The Environmental Justice Foundation's Pop Up Shops,
Forum for the Future, Keep and Share, Knit Chics, Stitch n Bitch, Luna Mano, Clothing Swaps & Swishing, Pants to Poverty, Knitting Circles, Permacouture, Fashion takes Action, The Designers Accord, The Garment
Remake Exchange, Remade In Leeds, Sew Op's Asian Floor Wage alliance, Labour behind the Label, Clean Clothes Campaign, Eco Fashion World, Eco Chic Fashion Show, Slow Fashion Australia, Slow Lab, Social
Alterations High Fashion (School) Workshops, Nordic Intiative Clean and Ethical, Slow Textiles, Upcycling initiatives, Take back programs, GOODONE, Project Rejeaneration, Make Do Mend, Platform 21's
Repair Manifesto, Otto Von Busch's Self Passage, Kate Fletcher's books and consultancy and local wisdom and lifetimes!, 5WAYS, The Uniform Project, The Sartorialist, The OrangOrang Project, Aid to Artisans,
Project Rejeneration, Burdastyle, Sew Op, Organic Cotton Exchange, Our Social Fabric, Sweat Shop Paris, Better Cotton Intiative, Global Organic Cotton Community, Think Act Vote, Fashion Evolution, Slow
Fashion Forward, Clean Up Fashion, The Environmental Justice Foundation's Pop Up Shops, Forum for the Future, Keep and Share, Knit Chics, Stitch n Bitch, Luna Mano, Clothing Swaps & Swishing, Pants to
Poverty, Knitting Circles, Permacouture, Fashion takes Action, The Designers Accord, The Garment Remake Exchange, Remade In Leeds, Sew Op's Asian Floor Wage alliance, Labour behind the Label, Clean
Clothes Campaign, Eco Fashion World, Eco Chic Fashion Show, Slow Fashion Australia, Slow Lab, Social Alterations High Fashion (School) Workshops, Nordic Intiative Clean and Ethical, Slow Textiles, Upcycling
initiatives, Take back programs, GOODONE, Project Rejeaneration, Make Do Mend, Platform 21's Repair Manifesto, Otto Von Busch's Self Passage, Kate Fletcher's books and consultancy and local wisdom and lifetimes!,
5WAYS, The Uniform Project, The Sartorialist, The OrangOrang Project, Aid to Artisans, Project Rejeneration, Burdastyle, Sew Op, Organic Cotton Exchange, Our Social Fabric, Sweat Shop Paris, Better Cotton
Intiative, Global Organic Cotton Community, Think Act Vote, Fashion Evolution, Slow Fashion Forward, Clean Up Fashion, The Environmental Justice Foundation's Pop Up Shops, Forum for the Future, Keep and
Share, Knit Chics, Stitch n Bitch, Luna Mano, Clothing Swaps & Swishing, Pants to Poverty, Knitting Circles, Permacouture, Fashion takes Action, The Designers Accord, The Garment Remake Exchange, Remade In
Leeds, Sew Op's Asian Floor Wage alliance, Labour behind the Label, Clean Clothes Campaign, Eco Fashion World, Eco Chic Fashion Show, Slow Fashion Australia, Slow Lab, Social Alterations High Fashion (School)
Workshops, Nordic Intiative Clean and Ethical, Slow Textiles, Upcycling initiatives, Take back programs, GOODONE, Project Rejeaneration, Make Do Mend, Platform 21's Repair Manifesto, Otto Von Busch's Self
Passage, Kate Fletcher's books and consultancy and local wisdom and lifetimes!, 5WAYS, The Uniform Project, The Sartorialist, The OrangOrang Project, Aid to Artisans, Project Rejeneration, Burdastyle, Sew Op,
Organic Cotton Exchange, Our Social Fabric, Sweat Shop Paris, Better Cotton Intiative, Global Organic Cotton Community, Think Act Vote, Fashion Evolution, Slow Fashion Forward, Clean Up Fashion, The
Environmental Justice Foundation's Pop Up Shops, Forum for the Future, Keep and Share, Knit Chics, Stitch n Bitch, Luna Mano, Clothing Swaps & Swishing, Pants to Poverty, Knitting Circles, Permacouture, Initiatives
> Continental Clothing new localized supply chain (design travels)
> Patagonia Common Threads take back program
> Small designers upcycle used clothing. Barrier
> 19 designers surveyed stressed that sustainable
materials were not available locally and that the
capacity to produce them was limited.
> 93% of survey respondents do not have a take-back
program or link to this service.
> Building new localized supply chain structures is
challenging (PACT). Buffers
> Cotton vs. Hemp
> Organic cotton is the most widely used by Slow Fashion
> 21 survey respondents, followed by bamboo, hemp, flax
> Diversifying sustainable materials to reduce resource use
(land, energy, water)

Barrier
> Lack of technology to process alternate fibres
> Lack availability on the market = a higher price. > Time delay for building textile recycling centers
> Fashion designers are being creative by using recycled clothing (GOODONE)
> Technology, skill & growth delay for developing natural dyes
> 97% of respondents were interested in using natural dyes in the future
> Encouraging 'reflective consumption'
Slow Fashion is small & doesn't have this balancing effect yet. * Slow Fashion strives to create new supply chain structures. To ensure there is a variety of sustainable materials used in designs. *Delays in adjusting material stocks and flows * Slow Fashion aims to bring equilibrium to the Fashion Industry * Spread awareness & make information available Within the supply chain
> More transparency
> Engaging in dialogue
> Increased amount of education programs
> Increasing on-line hubs

Between producer & co-producer
88% communicate sustainability info through dialogue websites or garment labels

Barriers
> Over 70 private labels
> No common resource for information & best practices > More punishments to limit pollution
> More global environmental standards are needed
> Secure financing for rainfed cotton
> Remove cotton subsidies *Level the playing field of whole industry to make Slow Fashion be more competitive Initiatives
> Implementation of on-line hubs (ie. Eco Fashion World, Ethical
Fashion Forum, Organic Exchange)
> Workshops are happening where Slow Fashion players can meet
> Building relationships within the supply chain
> More people can be involved

Barrier
The Slow Fashion movement is only thriving in a few countries that we know of (Canada, UK, USA & Northern European countries) *Become a more organized movement They want to
> Meet human needs
> Lessen the impact on environment
> & they have diverse business goals for different brands

They do not share a definition of sustainability.
They do not have a clear idea of where they are going. * Achieve a common vision Slow Fashion is spreading their values through their actions, behaviors and communication. The present mindset of Fast Fashion and consumption is very rooted and will be hard to change.

However, Slow Fashion IS up to this challenge. * Change the mindset 12 1 TRANSCENDING paradigms Very difficult to achieve, especially in Fashion. It entails not being attached to a paradigm at all, but be able to shift between what is necessary at the time. 7 POSITIVE feedback loops (reinforcing) Media coverage can help Slow Fashion grow, and Consumer Awareness Campaigns will keep it in check. * Slow Fashion needs to grow 9 DELAYS - the length of time relative to the rates of system changes & email > Closing the material loop
> Remaking existing vintage garments
> Produce garments locally
> Lifetime repair or redesign assistance
> No water or chemicals dye processes
> Educating the co-producer
> Using biodegradable packaging
> Offseting carbon emissions Life-cycle thinking & eco-design - 73 % of respondents

Labelling - 8 survey respondents:
> Certified Organic Cotton
> Fair Trade
> OEKO TEX STANDARD 100
> Made-By label
> Organic Exchange
> Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) This leverage point is more geared towards the larger fashion industry, the Slow Fashion movement is making efficiency improvements already. Passive consumerism "Reflective Consumption" Co-Producer Active participant Establish a vision that represents collective goals and aspirations, and to provide a focal point for self-organization.
These principles are necessary to backcast from.
MUST be constrained by the Sustainability Principles FSSD Success Level + Inspired by Leverage Points 2 & 3 & 4 3 main recommendations were determined with the
3 Prioritization Questions: Our purpose is to: Slow Fashion Forward Slow Fashion
Principles How can a Slow Fashion label be strategically developed and marketed using existing textile and garment labelling schemes, certification bodies and other stakeholders? Further Research What is an effective strategy for communicating the benefits of Slow Fashion to shift individuals from a ‘consumer’ to a ‘co-producer’ mind set? Using a strategic sustainable development approach, how can the transition from a Fast to Slow Fashion industry be developed to ensure minimum impact of the developing world? What is the business case for sustainability for small Slow Fashion designers? Seeing the big picture Slowing Down Consumption
to allow Earth’s Natural Regeneration. Diversity
Strength, Resilience and Beauty lie in diversity. Respecting People
Treating others as they would like to be treated Acknowledging Human Needs by Co-Creation. Building Relationships to Collaborate Practicing Consciousness
Giving Your Heart and Brain a chance. Profitability
Contributing to the economic strength of the industry. Maintaining Quality and Beauty...
Quality Leads to Longevity Resourcefulness
Relying on Local Resources and Skills. Lets move
We invite you to be a part of the movement by taking on the role of co-producer. “The money the garments make goes directly back into supporting the organic farmers, mills, local production- it is an ecosystem that supports ethical production from start to finish.” (survey) Kate Fletcher’s 2008 book, Design Journeys, describes how slowing down the use of raw materials by slowing down fashion production could allow the earth’s regenerative capabilities to take place.
“I have been producing slow clothes since the late nineties and I am not about to change that. I am passionate about making a change in our consumption habits and educating the public forum…” (survey).
Make Do and Mend - a movement that promotes making do with what you have.
Slow Lab - writes about how slowing the pace can foster reflective consumption. “Most garments are a collaboration between me and the client.”
“I've had customers with old clothes that want re vamping, and we work together on the style and look they want to achieve. I've also made items from the collection out of their own donated items too.”
“We work with individuals to restyle their clothing to a specific theme. If they are willing to engage with the manufacture process then this can also be used, but normally they are happy to hand it over, give a specification and get back an altered garment.” Innovative Local Solutions “We strive for longevity by making the design of dresses quite classical. The fabrics we source and quality of stitching are the best we can access locally.”

“Not so trend oriented but more classic period pieces, big statement pieces that are timeless and well made and durable.” “Everything is made by me to keep cost down because you can't change the world if it's not accessible.”
“Yes, the cost of the garments reflect the higher prices of local production (living wages) and the higher price point of purchasing organic cotton etc…” Laura Chenoweth No shared definition of sustainability & no collective vision. Phase 4 The OrangOrang project Local Labour Local Knowledge Social Diversity Biodiversity Cultural Diversity "Not one answer,
but a mass of answers."
-Kate Fletcher Local Wisdom by Kate Fletcher Jag Bag Productions, Elsa Jagniecki Tra La La, Stephanie Peterka "The developed world has basically got the developing world on a drug that is Fast Fashion and we can't just suddenly take it away, without MASSIVE consequences."
-Mark Bannister
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