The Devil's Thumb

East Ridge

The final side of the mountain is the East ridge. This is the ascent that Beckey first made in the 1940's. A lot of traversing is required to reach the peak, along with overcoming three difficult obstacles. You will need to rappel down and pendulum over as far as you can for the first obstacle. An alpine kit is necessary for this climb. Mark Smiley made an ascent and filmed it (below). Avid mountaineers try this side with enthusiasm and should expect a great climb.

The Devil's Thumb

Conclusion

The brave souls, such as John Krakauer, that brave the risky slopes of the Devil's Thumb are admirable and courageous. Those that wish to follow their lead should learn from their mistakes and improve on their techniques.

“I thought climbing the Devil's Thumb would fix all that was wrong with my life. In the end, of course, it changed almost nothing. But I came to appreciate that mountains make poor receptacles for dreams.”

―- Jon Krakauer, Into the Wild

Citations

Colin. "Devil's Thumb, The Diablo Traverse." Devil's Thumb, The Diablo Traverse. N.p., 01 Jan. 1970. Web. 28 Feb. 2017.

"Glacier Adventures." June 2013. N.p., 01 Jan. 1970. Web. 27 Feb. 2017.

"Happy 94th Birthday Fred Beckey!" Gripped Magazine. N.p., 14 Jan. 2017. Web. 27 Feb. 2017.

King, Abigail. "Baird Glacier." Flickr. Yahoo!, 23 Sept. 2010. Web. 27 Feb. 2017.

Krakauer, Jon. Into the Wild. New York: Anchor, 1996. Print.

LaVacque, Jared. "Devil's Thumb." Mountain Project. N.p., 24 Feb. 2009. Web. 26 Feb. 2017.

MacDonald, Dougald. "Devil's Thumb: Epic First Winter Ascent - Climbing Magazine | Rock Climbing,

Mountaineering, Bouldering, Ice Climbing." Climbing. N.p., 15 June 2012. Web. 27 Feb. 2017.

Smiley, Mark. "UNCUT - Teaser from Devils Thumb, Alaska." Vimeo. N.p., Mar. 2012. Web. 27 Feb. 2017.

"Unsupported Crossing of Stikine Icecap." Gripped Magazine. N.p., 10 Aug. 2015. Web. 27 Feb. 2017.

Karissa Callis

South Slope

This side of the mountain attracts more traditional climbers. It does not take too many new techniques or equipment, and is probably the easiest side to climb. However, this is still not an easy climb. It takes much experience to climb any side of the mountain. Climbers that wish to have an old-school experience should climb this side.

Northwest Face

This daunting side appeals to the bravest alpinists. It is 6,000 feet of ice covered climbing. Climbers that wish to ascend from this side must have extensive experience and quality equipment. Deaths are more likely to happen on this side as well. This side has been called 'the last great problem' of North American climbs.

Southwest Buttress

The thumb can be attempted by many routes and sides, but one major route is the Southwest buttress. Here clean white granite calls to the most advanced climbers. Few pitches have been made on this side out of the less than 40 ascents on the Thumb. With the right weather this part of the thumb creates an enjoyable yet challenging climb.

Fatalities

The First Climb

The erratic weather on the Devil's thumb has resulted in many tragic deaths. Unpredictable avalanches and small mistakes have made the Devil's Thumb one of the most dangerous climbs in America. Less than 4o ascents have been made, including John Krakauer's ascent. Even accomplished climbers have difficulty on the climb. Zac Hoyt attempted a solo ascent when he fell into a deep crevasse. Luckily he had means of communication with a friend and arranged for a helicopter. Others, sadly, have not been as lucky and their bodies can still be found in the Thumb.

The Devil's Thumb saw its first climber post World War two. Fred Beckey was a pioneer in mountaineering, especially in Alaska and Canada. In 1946 he reached the summit from the East Ridge. Few climbers followed his lead, and only when climbing standards improved more climbers were beckoned onto the immense peak. Beckey's ascent is something that all future Thumb climbers will strive to achieve and improve on. Beckey is currently 94 and still climbing. His legacy will forever be remembered by alpinists and climbers globally.

Weather

Introduction

The weather is crucial to reach the peak of this climb. It is imperative to plan your trip during the right season to get the best snow/ice combination. This could be anytime, but it depends on the face you are climbing. The varying weather can be hazardous to the climb as an avalanche or rain storm could be fatal.

Brave climbers that have asended the Devil's Thumb tell stories of fear, risk, and ultimately, accomplishment. This peak is known as America's last great mountaineering problem and is challenging to even the most advanced climbers. The four main sides (the Southwest buttress, Northwest face, East ridge, and South slope) each offer their own problems and solutions. Climbers that wish to reach summit should be well prepared and keep constant communication with someone on the ground. Many deaths have occurred on the climb, making the Devil's Thumb one of the most dangerous climbs in North America.

video by Mark Smiley

How to reach the Devil's Thumb

Baird Glacier

Witch's Cauldron

Many climbers start their journey at Petersburg, the nearest town. The climb can then be reached by helicopter, boat, skiing, or by foot. If something goes wrong on the climb a helicopter rescue is also available. To reach the Northwest and Southwest faces you should start at the Baird Glacier or Witch's Cauldron. For the Southeast face you start at the ice cap.

57°10′26″N 132°18′05″W

Ice Cap

The Devil's Thumb is located in Alaska's Inside Passage. More specifically, this is the Stikine Ice Cap. The climb is named after its own appearance, a large and ominous thumb. Known as the last great wilderness of America, Alaska contains some of the best climbs in America. Alaska is 663,267 miles squared and America's largest state. The wilderness that it contains attracts thrill-seekers and Chris McCandless types year-round.