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Lilou MOTTELAY
Fiona TARPEY
Leo DODDS
2020
Teenage girls wearing casual outfits
-> the end of the war means the end of rationing and the beginning of excess
-> New availability of fabrics + new textiles and technology (ex : acrylic or polyester)
->the rise of consumerism makes clothes cheaper and affordable for teenagers.
-> Style clothing becomes an important part of culture in the 50s.
-> Fashion is now a way to express conformity but ALSO individual identity.
-> Rebirth of the Haute Couture w/ new creators who rebel against the restricted austerity styles (ex : Balenciaga).
Balenciaga's balloon jacket, 1953
Teens wearing varsity sweaters
Teddy boy style
Teens wearing jeans
Teens VS Women
-> Increasing gap between adult and teenage clothing.
-> Around the 55s, the biggest trends were targeted toward teenagers!
-> Girls started to wear pants and shorts but it was still considered as socially inappropriate.
Marlon Brando in "The Wild One"
Teens vs Men
->Boys followed the standard black leather jacket and denim jeans, just like Marlon Brando in "The Wild One", s 1953, and later in "Grease", in 1978.
-> Teenagers no longer followed their parents
but their own inspirations!
-> Fashion became a way to rebel against s rules and parental authority.
Pants and shorts with pedal pushers (pentacourt) for girls
Video about school dresscode at the time : https://youtu.be/1ham3ljTPmk
Rockabilly women style
Teddy boy style
-> Teens were influenced by icons and
musicians such as James Dean, Marlon Brando...
-> Pin ups appeared as well as rockabilly style with Elvis Presley as major figure of influence.
-> Teens were also inspired by The Beat Generation, a group of writers who wore mainly oversized dresses and stripped shirts, and experimented drugs and their sexuality. (The hippy movement followed after, in the late 60s.)
-> In Great Britain emerged the "Teddy Boy Look" : boys wore long jackets and suit pants, with greasy hair styled back: they're juvenile deliquance and terrorize the streets of Great Britain.
-> We assisted to the rebirth of Haute Couture with new fashion creators such as Coco Chanel, Hubert de Givenchy, Balenciaga and Christian Dior.
Rockabilly men style
Example of a pin up
men and women of the beat generation
Prom school dances were integral part of teen life, and a very important ritual for every teenager.
Girls wore princess dresses, headbands and pearls while boys wore sophisticated suits.
This tradition still continues in the USA, and has not lost his magic.
-> technology evolved, easier to access
because cheaper = youth becomes the prime market
-> music became youth's beacon
a mean of expression/ political statement
-> 50's : Rock and Roll, R&B, creating mainstream market
Jazz, Blues,
Country
-> 60's :
Rock&Roll
Rock
Folk
Pop
Psychadelia,
Surf Rock...
Chuck Berry
Rock&Roll :
add some joy
Rock
&
Roll
Rythm
&
Blues
(and a bit of country)
too black to be popular
speed it up
Little Richard's crazy "Long Tall Sally" performance :
"Sex Drugs and Alcohol!!"
"yeah!!" said the teens
"too vulgar" said the adults
that's better !
-> Brought Rock&Roll to white audiences
-> Symbol of defiance towards older generations
Elvis on the
"Ed Sullivan Show"
Rockabilly Fashion
boring plain suits
Open shirted, greasy hair, vivid colors
Elvis' fierce dance moves
Other british bands :
Rolling Stones
The Who
-> Harsh times in Northern cities (Liverpool, Manchester)
"The Who" performing on the Smothers Brothers
-> Brit teens wanted a happy escape
-> Along came
defined "pop" music
-> songs about everyday life troubles
brit teens imitating beatle haircut
-> Brought up Black mainstream superstars
-> 90 number 1 hits from '53 to '69
(most prolific label)
The glamorous "Supremes"
-> Motown artists advocating for equal rights
Marvin Gaye's politically engaged "What's Going On"
Country Joe McDonald's legendary Woodstock performance
-> Harsh times :
Vietnam war, civil rights activism, post war depression..
-> A politically engaged genre, youth's response to the world
Bob Dylan's defying
discography
Bob Dylan singing at MLK's
speech in 1963
Growing up as the generation of Hope
->The kids grew up in a very controlled world made just for them , new hope for an idealistic american society, and a way to forget the past.
ex : entertainment for children on televisions programs designed specifically for children began to emerge Captain Kangaroo, Romper Room, and The Mickey Mouse Club
Very controlled information for example in the film industry people had to swear they were not communist to be able to work . Hollywood manifestations
movies and television were seen as a way to entertain, while reinforcing values such as religious faith, patriotism, and conformity to societal norms.
Youth wanting to rebel against all the propaganda they have been endorsing and the high standards set for them... want freedom!
Arrival of a new social and cultural demographic of the teenager; awkward age of rebellion and dissatisfaction from 13 to 20 yearsr old.
.
Sub culture the way of life, customs, and ideas of a particular group of people within a society, which are different from the rest of that society.
"youth culture" -> a concept that begun to develop in the 1920s, but throughout the Great Depression and World War II, young Americans were expected to obedient and follow society's expectations for the sake of the nation’s well-being.
The urge of individuality and distance themselves from the culture of their parents, teenagers turned to youth-oriented television programs and movies—all packaged for them through new marketing strategies targeting their demographic.
The youth is now very powerful
There's a change of view on JD , sex, drugs , diversity and a better representation of the society in general
It's the golden age on drive-in theaters -> perfect for cheap , fun gatherings (rise of consumerism)
-Hot-rod movies
-rock movie
-teen beach movie
-Horror films
-teen melodrama
-The Wild One (1953)
-Rebel Without a Cause (1955)
-Blackboard Jungle (1955)
-Teenage Rebel (1956)
-James Dean
-Marilyn Monroe
-Frank sinatra
-Jayne Mansfield
-Paul newman
-Cary grant
In the 60s face european competition
Later (1978) Grease is released has a throwback from the 1950’s
Andy warhol most famous artworks
Bridget riley and her optical illusion
-> The 50s : birth of new art movements : New figurative art, conceptual art, happenings and POP ART( which appears in 1952 in London)!!
->Reacting against : the government strong influence on art + conservative art style
-> Pop art : uses comic books, famous movies + stars, advertisement, commercial screen painting techniques
-> Andy Warhol "In the future everyone will be famous for 15 minutes"
-> 60s : psychedelic art, minimalism, op art, conceptual art playing w/ classic art conventions.
-> rise of consumerism : new industrial materials for artworks
-> Birth of feminist art + black artists
-> 50s : a rupture where modern art ends and contemporary art begins
Andy Warhol short biography https://youtu.be/7VH5MRtk9HQ
Video about the apparition of pop art https://youtu.be/6qr7cdpGDRo
Lichtenstein pop art's style
New figurative art
Another example of minimalism
Donal Judd art
-> Minimalism : originated from America, celebrates simplicity and reduction of art : main artists Donal Judd and Yatoi Kusama
-> Conceptual art : conceptual art reduced art
to absolute mininum + rejection of beauty
rare and skillfull as art characteristics : main
artist Joseph Kosuth
Joseph Kosuth main artworks
The Catcher in the Rye J D Sallinger
Invisible Man Ralph Ellison
Fahrenheit 451
Ray Bradbury
Literature in youth culture challenging older generations
Atlas Shrugged
Ayn Rand
->Authors wrote about gender, race, drugs homosexuality, feminism and war, and they criticized society, just like the youth generation did → reliable
Literature heavily impacts other form of arts as it is artists fist source of inspiration , imagination ....
The Beat generation
> Writers close group of friends
>name originated from an anti-conformist youth movement
+ tired (double sense)
>diversity, censorship, challenging, raw,drug, sex, liberation/freedom