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Eiger North Wall
About
- 3967 m, north wall is over 1800 m
- Bernese Alps
- four kilometers, longest and most strenuous in the Alps
- avalanches, falling rocks
- dramatic attempts
- Kleine Scheidegg
- more than 30 interconnected routes
- today: climb the north wall within a few hours
First ascent
Tries
- 1938 :Germans Anderl Heckmair and Ludwig Vörg, Austrians Fritz Kasparek and Heinrich Harrer
- climbed into the wall separately
- Heckmair and Vörg feared bad weather, dismounted
- another rope team
- early morning 22 July: Heckmair and Vörg climbed into the wall again, reached Harrer and Kasparek
- Kasparek had ten points and Harrer had no crampons
- continued to climb separately, Heckmair took the lead
- one rope team
- two more bivouac nights, three days of climbing together in bad weather and with constant avalanches
- 3:30, 24.July 1938: summit of the Eiger was reached for the first time over the north wall
First tries
- first attempt in August 1935: Max Sedlmayr, Karl Mehringer
- sudden fall in the weather, rescuer failed, 1 month later, dead body was found
- "death bivouac"
- July 1936: Anderl Hinterstoißer, Toni Kurz , Willy Angerer, Edi Rainer
- "Hinterstoißer crossing" (no rope)
- one was injured, went back, avalanche, Tony survived, rescuer were too late, dead bodies were found (Sedlmayr)
- banned, November 1936 allowed again, alpine rescue stations were released
- August 1937: Mathias Rebitsch, Ludwig Vörg
- death bivouac, fall in the weather
- first successful retreat
Later
- July 1950: Leo Forstenlechner, Erich Waschak, one day
- summer 1952: rush (21 people)
- August 1957: Italians Claudio Corti and Stefano Longhi, Germans Günter Nothdurft and Franz Mayer
- two rope teams, later one
- Stefano and Corti could not climb anymore,, Germans climbed to the summit, crashed on the way back, Corti survived ("Corti-Drama")
- from 1960: many climbed alone
- September 1971: first rescue by a helicopter (Peter Siegert and Martin Biock)
- August 1974: Reinhold Messner, Peter Habeler, speed record for rope teams on the Heckmair route (ten hours)
- 9.3.1978: Tsuneo Hasegawa, first winter solo ascent of the Heckmair route
- August 1979: Michel Piola, Gérard Hopfgartner, first free climbing route
Now
- October 2010: Ueli Steck, Bruno Schläppi, 5 hours and 3 minutes, new rope team record
- February 201: Roger Schäli, Simon Gietl, undercut by 38 minutes
- April 2011: Dani Arnold, 2 hours and 28 minutes
- 2011: Ticino Giovanni Quirici, died, mark of 70 fatalities
- 11.11.2015: Ueli Steck, Nicolas Hojac, new speed record for a rope team, 3 hours and 46 minutes
- 16.11.2015: Ueli Steck, new record for solo tour, 2 hours and 22 minutes (first climbers had needed three days)
- 31.3.2017: Peter Habeler (74), David Lama, oldest north face climber
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