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Building a Common Language
USAC Coaches Symposium Winter 2019
By Justen Sjong
Experience
Early Influence
Early Influence
Tony Yaniro & Todd Skinner
John Gill
Udo & Dale | Performance Rock Climbing
4
Different Goals
Instructor
Trainer
Guide
Coach
Safety
Technical Skills
Mental Skills
Physical Ability
My Dream
Network of Coaches
Network of Coaches
Master List
- Name
- Location
- Primary Focus
- Contact Information
Mindfulness...
Mindfulness...
means paying attention in a particular way: on purpose, in the present moment and non judgmentally, as if your life is dependent on it.
- Jon Kabat-Zinn
Seeing
Hearing
Feeling
Mindfulness...
means paying attention in a particular way: on purpose, in the present moment and non judgmentally, as if your life is dependent on it.
- Jon Kabat-Zinn
Mindfulness...
means paying attention in a particular way: on purpose, in the present moment and non judgmentally, as if your life is dependent on it.
- Jon Kabat-Zinn
Mindfulness...
means paying attention in a particular way: on purpose, in the present moment and non judgmentally, as if your life is dependent on it.
- Jon Kabat-Zinn
Mindfulness...
means paying attention in a particular way: on purpose, in the present moment and non judgmentally, as if your life is dependent on it.
- Jon Kabat-Zinn
Technical
Skills
Tempo
Movement
Thought
Balance
Overview
Sequencing
Your ability to piece the puzzle together.
Scanning
How we visually take in information.
Overview
Breath
Source of life and fuel to the mind & body.
Coordination
Movement & timing of your physical skills
Tempo
Rate that you cycle through your skills.
Good Technique
Your ability to efficiently use your body on the wall.
Arm Position
Elbow regulates tension in your body.
Relaxation & Tension
Regulate your core to fluctuate between fluidity and stability.
Body Position
How best to utilize your body.
Tempo
Movement
Momentum
Syncing of the elbows and knees to generate the body
Thought
Balance
Footwork
Manipulating and managing your hips through your toes.
Balance
Stability
Balance
OR
Footwork
Footwork
Smooth Toe Placement
Heel Rotation
Personality of Footwork
Body Position
Body Position
Position Related to Wrist
Point Flagging Toe
Clear Purpose of Flag
Smooth Transitions
Personality with Transitions
Elbow Position
Elbow Position
Start with a Relaxed Arm
Catch with a Bent Arm
Thought
Breathing
Breathing
Composure Breathe at Base
Quality of Belly Breathe
Quality Intense Breathe
Quality Scream Breathe
Quality No Breathe
Ability to Shift Intensity Level
Scanning
Scanning
Clear Intent with Eyes
Regulate Soft & Hard Focus
Sequencing
Sequencing
Clear Pre Game Routine
Deliberate Movement on the Ground
Executes the Intended Sequence
Movement
Relaxation & Tension
Relaxation & Tension
Baseline Relaxation at Base
Regulate Level of Relaxation
Regulate Level of Tension
Momentum
Momentum
Relaxing Down Swing
Constant Stand at the Deadpoint Zone
Perfect combo of the Knee & Toe
Timing of the Core
Coordination
Coordination
Fine Motor Skills
Pride & Purpose of the Action
Tempo
Tempo
Pace of Easy Climbing
Pace of Hard Climbing
Breathe, Eyes and Action are in Sync
Enhance the ATHLETES PERFORMANCE
Enhance the ATHLETES PERFORMANCE
Lengthens your Performance
Express Purpose
RELAXATION
Regulate Level of Relaxation
SEQUENCING
Deliberate Movement on the Ground
BREATHING
Composure Breathe at Base
Creates Positive Drama
Shows Confidence
BREATHING
Ability to Shift Intensity Levels
FOOTWORK
Personality of Footwork
BODY POSITION
Personality with Transitions
Clean Crisp Action
SCANNING
Clear Intent with Eyes
MOMENTUM
Timing of the Core
BIG 3
Equally STRONG in 3 Areas!
Emotions
enhance our Performance.
Physical gains
in your
Muscles & Tendons.
Muscle Memory
of
Technical & Mental
Skills.