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Unit #1

Le lever du roi

FYS 159

Etiquette: Rules of Manners in Modern Society

Who was Louis XIV?

History

  • Born in 1638, Louis XIV took the throne at the age of 5 in 1643
  • Known as "Dieudonné" and "Le roi soleil"
  • His mother, Anne of Austria and first minister Mazarin ruled until the king came of age
  • The Fronde (1648-1653)
  • Married Maria-Theresa of Austria
  • Had a string of official mistresses: Mlle de la Vallière, Mme de Montespan and Mme de Maintenon
  • Died in 1715 (4 days before his 77th birthday)

History of Versailles

  • started as a hunting lodge for Louis XIII
  • first visited by Louis XIV in 1641
  • construction to transform into a residence began in 1661
  • saw many lavish parties (1664, 1668, 1674)
  • became the main residence of the French Court and government in 1682

Versailles

Tour

Pictures

The Courtier

  • two things were important in gaining access to Versailles: name and getting the attention of Louis XIV
  • Newcomers served those higher up then them in hopes of getting into the palace
  • "The King had an eye like a hawk...for any breach of etiquette, and not even the most exalted were safe from his reproof"

Courtly Life

Hierarchy

Hierarchy

  • the King
  • the Dauphin
  • Children of France (King's brother and grandchildren)
  • Grandchildren of France (King's cousin, half-sisters, brother's children, nephews and nieces)
  • Princes of Blood (Bourbons)
  • Six ecclesiastical Peers of France (Count-Bishops)
  • Dukes
  • Counts, Marquises, Barons
  • Foreign Princes

Timeline

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#3

#4

#1

TIMELINE

Timeline

Baroque

Courtly Clothing

Rococo

Dress Occasions

Dressing the part

White Tie

Women

Formal (floor length) evening gown

Long gloves (optional)

Men

Black dress coat (tailcoat), matching trousers with a single stripe of satin or braid in the US; two stripes in Europe or the UK

White piqué wing-collared shirt with stiff front

Braces, to ensure a good fit

Shirt studs and cuff links

White vest

White bow tie

White or gray gloves

Black patent shoes and black dress socks

Black Tie

Women

Formal (floor length) evening gown

Dressy cocktail dress

Your dressiest “little black dress”

Men

Black tuxedo jacket and matching trousers

Formal (piqué or pleated front) white shirt

Shirt studs and cuff links

Black bow tie (silk, satin, or twill)

Black cummerbund to match tie, or a vest

Dressy braces to ensure a good fit (optional)

No gloves

Black patent shoes and black dress socks

In summer, in the tropics, or on a cruise: White dinner jacket, black tuxedo trousers plus other black tie wardrobe

Creative Black Tie

Women

Formal (floor length) evening gown

Dressy cocktail dress

Your dressiest “little black dress”

Fun or unique accessories

Men

Tuxedo combined with trendy or whimsical items, such as a black shirt or a matching colored or patterned bow tie and cummerbund

Black Tie Optional

Women

Formal (floor length) evening gown

Dressy cocktail dress

A “little black dress”

Dressy separates

Men

Tuxedo (see “Black Tie” above)

Dark suit, white dress shirt, and conservative tie

Leather dress shoes and dark dress socks

Semiformal

Women

Short afternoon or cocktail dress

A “little black dress”

Long dressy skirt and top

Dressy separates

Men

Dark, business suit

Matching vest (optional)

Dress shirt

Tie

Leather dress shoes and dark dress socks

Festive Attire (usually for the holidays)

Women

Cocktail dress

Long dressy skirt and top

Dressy pants outfit or separates

A “little black dress”

Feature holiday colors

Men

Seasonal sport coat or blazer in color of choice, and slacks

Open-collar shirt, or dress shirt

Tie—festive or with a holiday theme

Business Formal*

Women

Suit

Business-style dress

Dress with a jacket

Stockings (optional in summer)

Heels, low or high

Men

Dark business suit

Matching vest (optional)

Dress shirt

Conservative tie

Leather dress shoes and dark dress socks

Business Casual*

Women

Skirt, khakis, or pants

Open-collar shirt, knit shirt or sweater (no spaghetti straps or décolleté)

Dress

Men

Seasonal sport coat or blazer with slacks or khakis

Dress shirt, casual button-down shirt, open-collar or polo shirt

Optional tie

Loafers or loafer-style shoes, and socks

*Always check and abide by your company’s dress code

Dressy Casual

Women

Dress

Skirt and dressy top

Dressy pants outfit

Nice jeans and dressy top

Men

Seasonal sport coat or blazer, and slacks

Dress shirt, casual button-down shirt, open-collar or polo shirt

Optional tie

Casual

Women

Sundress

Long or short skirt

Khakis or nice jeans

Shorts (depending on occasion and climate)

Plain T-shirt (no slogans), polo shirt, turtleneck

Casual button-down blouse

Men

Khakis or good jeans (clean, no holes)

Cargo or Bermuda shorts—depending on occasion and climate

Plain T-shirt (no slogans), polo shirt, turtleneck

Casual button-down shirt and/or sweater

Loafers, sneakers (with or without socks), sandals

Hygiene

1 : a science of the establishment and maintenance of health

2 : conditions or practices (as of cleanliness) conducive to health

Hygiene

Hygiene History

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