Shampoo & Conditioning the hair & Scalp

Shampoo & Conditioning the hair & Scalp

• Identify how the pH value of shampoo and conditioning products used affects the hair structure

• Look at what happens when using incorrect shampooing and conditioning products

• Describe the effects of massage techniques when shampooing and conditioning different lengths and densities of hair

• Describe how shampoo and water act together to cleanse the hair & how water temperature affects the hair structure

• Explain the importance of thoroughly rinsing hair to remove shampoos and conditioning products

• Explain the direction in which the hair cuticle lies and its importance when disentangling wet hair

Session 2

Correct use of products

Acid products, pH 0-6.9

• pH 0-1 – strong acids which would destroy the hair

• pH 1.5 – 4 mild acids, which would shrink and harden the hair

• pH 4.5 – 5.5 – Weak acids, found in shampoos and conditioners that are balanced to the hair and skins natural pH

The pH Scale

Conditioning tools we use.

pH neutral, pH 7

• Water

• Soapless shampoos – shampoo used to cleanse and clarify the hair before a perm are pH 7, which lifts the cuticle scales slightly to aid the perming process.

Ensure you always follow manufacturers instructions. If the incorrect product is used on the hair it can create a barrier or film on the hair

What do you think may happen to the different hair types, fine hair, oily hair and dry hair?

Research 4 products and check their pH and decide whether they are acid or alkaline

Alkaline products

• pH 7.1 – 14pH 7.1 – 7.9 weak alkali, slightly lifts the cuticle scales

• pH 8-10 mild alkali, swells the hair, opens cuticles scales, allows penetration into the cortex

• pH 10 -14 strong alkali, causes depilatory action

These items assist is in applying conditioners and detangling the hair. It is important you detangle from points to roots to avoid discomfort to client and damage to the hair. This helps to follow the way the cuticle layers lay without damaging them

Ensure products are removed from the hair thoroughly to aid further styling effectively.

EFFLEURAGE

A slow stroking movement used at the beginning and end of the shampooing treatment to relax muscles and release tension.

ROTARY

The fingers are rotated in opposite directions for each hand but unlike petrissage the movements are quick and move over the surface of the skin.

FRICTION

This massage is similar to rotary, but uses quite quick and vigorous movements. The hands are held in a claw like position and the pads of the fingers are used in firm movements from the hairline to the crown and down into the nape.

Suitable for short non greasy hair types

Always check the water temperature before applying to clients hair to avoid discomfort. Cool water closes cuticles and warm water opens.

Fine hair - Can become extremely greasy and limp very quickly.

Oily scalps - Can become greasy quickly and further build up of product

Dry hair & scalp - Greasy scalp shampoos can dry the hair and scalp out further. Further products can cause irritation to the scalp.

How pH values affect the hair structure

Our hair and skin are acidic and have a natural pH of 4.5 – 5.5. Therefore the day to day shampoos and conditioners we use must be pH balanced to our hair and skin, ie also pH 4.5 – 5.5. This ensures that the hair and skins natural moisture is maintained, and the cuticles scales are closed. The pH scale has a range of pH 0-14. Acidic products (pH 0-6.9) close the cuticle. Alkaline products (pH 7.1-14) open. Lift the cuticles scales.

What is shampoo & conditioner?

Shampoo

Is made from cleansing agents called SURFACTANTS. It is an agent that reduces surface tension. Remove dirt, grease and build up

CONDITIONER

Conditioners aid the process by returning the hair back to/or a better condition. By smoothing the cuticles, adding moisture and shine. Conditioner comes in various forms to treat the hair.

Conditioners

Petrissage

- Surface Conditioner

- Penetrating Conditioner

- Scalp Treatments

Scalp Treatments

What scalp conditions may require specific treatments?

Surface Conditioner

These usually consist of a three-stage process involving a treatment shampoo, conditioner and scalp treatment from a particular product range which all complement each other. They should be used together to provide the best possible results.

Some scalp treatments claim to help regulate the production of the sebaceous gland for excessively oily/dry scalps.

Dry scalps can benefit greatly from moisturising treatments such as hot oil treatments. If the scalp is dry it needs moisturising just like any other skin on the body. Regular moisturising treatments will really benefit a dry scalp and can help to alleviate dandruff and some milder forms of psoriasis.

Most surface conditioners come in cream form and work on the surface of the hair. They smooth and coat the cuticle scales, making the hair look shiny and more manageable. They do not have the ability to penetrate through the cuticle and therefore their function is limited.

If a surface conditioner is described as an anti-oxidant it has anti-oxy properties and can be used after chemical processes. An anti-oxidant conditioner has three functions:

• it stops the chemicals working (stops creeping oxidation)

• it closes and smoothes the cuticle scales, making the hair shiny

• it returns the hair to its natural pH value (pH 4.55.5).

Penetrating Conditioner

These work on the internal cortex of the hair; they temporarily rebuild the bonds in the cortex to add strength and elasticity. They can improve the overall look and feel of dry or damaged hair. Some can also smooth the cuticle scales, depending on whether a moisturising or a protein restructurant is used.

If the hair is badly damaged, you may need to recommend a course of penetrating treatments over a period of a month to six weeks.

Hydrophilic & Hydrophobic

Water

When applying a shampoo and water mix to the hair, you create lather. The hydrophilic head of the surfuctant is drawn to the water, while the hydrophobic tail is drawn to the oil and grease on the hair & scalp. The oil and grease contain dirt and skin particles. The lathering action is a push and pull effect on the oil and grease lifting it from the hair shaft.

The more oil and grease there is to bond with the surfucant molecules, the less the shampoo will lather. This is why a second shampoo always lathers more richly because the majority of the oil and grease have been removed by the first shampoo. When you use fresh water to rinse away the shampoo's lather, which now contains the oil and grease from the hair, it leaves a clean oil-free hair shaft.

Water is made from both hydrogen and oxygen atoms (H2O). There is a strong action between the water molecules which causes them to be pulled inwards at the surface of the water - This is known as surface tension (skin layer film)

Dirt & Grease