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1st century BCE to 4th century CE

180 BC - 10 BC

5th and 6th centuries A.D.

183 BC - 73 BC

EVOLUTION OF INDIAN JEWELRY

321 BC - 181 BC

Andhra Pradesh

2600 BC - 1300 BC

3000 BC - 2600 BC

Stone Age

Material of Jewelry

Stone Age people started making jewellery not long after they started making weaponry. Their jewellery included beads on necklaces and bracelets, pendants and hair pins. They made these beads from shells, animal teeth, animal bones or stones. They would then thread these beads onto string often made from plant stems or thin strips of animal hide. They would even sometimes decorate their jewellery by carving designs into the bead's surface.

50000 BC to 2500 BC

Jewelry

Stone age people made jewellery out of bits of bone, tooth, tusks, shells and stones. Find out how to make your own out of salt dough.

Style

Bronze Age

Bronze Age produced a unique style among jewelry designers. The initial jewelry pieces were similar to the metal jewelry. This style was adopted during the Mesopotamian ages, but gradually bronze started coming across as one of the best metals for imitation jewelry.

Jewelry

Two of the most common types of Bronze Age jewelry across many societies were the torc and the gorget. A torc was a band of thin, twisted metal that could be worn as a bracelet, necklace, decorative belt, or really over any part of the body it could be wrapped around.

Harappan civilization jewellery

Harappan Civilization

The archaeological evidence suggests that both men and women wore ornaments in the Harappan civilisation. They used ornaments made of gold, silver, and other metals. These ornaments included bangles, chokers, long pendant necklaces, rings, earrings, conical hair ornaments, and broaches.

Pottery from Mohenjo-Daro

The earthenware vessels of Mohenjo-Daro were mostly wheel-made

and well baked. Motifs like fish, leaves, Dear, bull and crudely appears on pottery

from Harappan Civilization.

Dancing Girl

Bronze “Dancing Girl” Found at excavation site of Mohenjodaro.

Place of Origin: Mohenjodaro

Priest King

Seated male sculpture, or "Priest King"

from Mohenjo-daro.

Material: white, low fired steatite

Jewellery Pieces from Indus Valley Civilization

Jewellery Pieces

Place of Origin:Indus Valley, Mohenjodaro

Nawab Aliverdi Khan on terrace with Kalgi ornament

The scene is set on a terrace surrounded by screen walls and a pavillion in the

background. In the foreground the central seated figure of the painting is that of

Nawab Alivardi Khan and he has been depicted as holding a 'Sarpech' (Kalgi ornament).

Jewellery in Mauryan Age

Mauryan Period

A variety of ornaments were used for head, neck, ear, arms, etc. The tradition of mix and match in jewellery appeared with different kinds of jewellery like Apavartika – a necklace with alternative Gold and pearl beads.

Mother Goddess

Mother Goddess Figure

Period: Mauryan Period, 3rd - 2nd Century

Material Terracotta

Yakshi

Shunga Period

The Buddhist monuments at Bharhut, Sanchi, Bodhgaya, and Amravati are attributed to the Sunga and Satavahana phase of Indian art history. This provides an insight on Indian jewellery through their carved stone sculptures. Sunga and Satavahana art reveals that a large variety of ornaments to be used on head, ears, neck, arms and waist and feet. The motifs and designs of ornament were drawn either from nature or sectarian symbols.

A Royal Family

A Royal Family

West Bengal, Chandraketugarh; Shunga Period

Yakshini

Yakshini

Period: Shunga Era

Material: Terracotta

EVOLUTION

Sirkap

The jewellery recovered from Sirkap has been dated to the first century BC. The jewellery found from the Sirkap is different from the ornaments found in the sculptures at Sanchi and Bharhut. This exhibits the Indian style of jewellery. Secondly the jewellery from Sirkap reveals the use of technical processes that was unknown in India. The jewellery found at Taxila is Greco Roman or influenced by Scythian or Persian source. At Mathura and Gandhara it is closer to the purely indigenous jewellery of the earlier periods. Gold was much in use.

Jwelry

The jewellery excavation from Taxila Provides rare material

evidence of the mastery of gold craftsmanship in ancient India.

Fashion, Jewellery & Art

Gandhara civilization

Of the relatively rare finds of ancient gold jewellery, most are from the north west of the subcontinent, the region known as Gandhara in ancient times, and particularly from Taxila, a flourishing city since the fourth century BC and which has been extensively excavated. Most of this jewellery shows a strong Greek or Hellenistic influence. Earrings often consist of discs from which hang down tiny chains terminating in beads or sometimes-small gold-erotes, or cupids, in repousse.

Bodhisattva Maitreya

Jewellery from Gandhara

Gupta period fashion

Gupta period

Clothing in the Gupta period was mainly cut and sewn garments. A long sleeved brocaded tunic became the main costume for privileged people like the nobles and courtiers. The main costume for the king was most often a blue closely woven silk antariya, perhaps with a block printed pattern.

Jewellery from Ajanta Mural Painting

Jewellery from Ajanta Mural Painting

Traditional Wear Of Andhra Pradesh

The renowned kronos earrings are startlingly similar to elaborate ear ornaments

worn by Sculptures at Bharhut and reliefs surviving from the stupa of Jaggayyapeta

in Kalinga

Bangles with elephant and Makaras (Crocodile) head portrays

evidence of the craftsman's skill.

1st century B.C.

Kronos earrings inspired by Sculptures at Bharhut

Bangles with elephant and crocodile head

Relations with the Ottoman Empire

Arrival of Portuguese embassy in Shah Jahan’s Court

Shah Jahan sent an embassy to the Ottoman court in 1637. Led by Mir Zarif, it reached Sultan Murad IV the following year, while he was encamped in Baghdad. Zarif presented him with fine gifts and a letter which encouraged an alliance against Safavid Persia. The Sultan sent a return embassy led by Arsalan Agha. Shah Jahan received the ambassador in June 1640. They exchanged lavish presents, but Shah Jahan was displeased with Sultan Murad's return letter, the tone of which he found discourteous. Sultan Murad's successor, Sultan Ibrahim, sent Shah Jahan another letter encouraging him to wage war against the Persians, but there is no record of a reply

A folio from the Badshah Nama

Jewellery with European influence

Illustrated pages from Ain I Akbari Manuscript

Ajanta and Late Gupta Period fasion

Ajanta and Late Gupta Period

Clothing in the Gupta period was mainly cut and sewn garments. A long sleeved brocaded tunic became the main costume for privileged people like the nobles and courtiers. The main costume for the king was most often a blue closely woven silk antariya, perhaps with a block printed pattern.

Light sheet gold ornaments Influenced

Chalukya Dynasty Clothing and Jewelry

Chalukyan & Pallava Period

In sculpture, men often went without clothing on their upper-torso. Men's clothing consisted of a dhoti, which was worn around the hip and could be shortened into a loin-cloth or lengthened into a kind of wrap skirt resembling pants with one part of the cloth being threaded through the legs in front and then tucked into the back of the waist. Men also wore a turban, also called a pagri, a head covering that was typically a long piece of cloth without any stitches and that was wrapped repeatedly around the head.

Sculpture often portrayed deities without clothing on their upper torso, especially females, whose breasts were often large and symbolized motherhood. Women in real life would have been covered, but in sculpture, artists were allowed to take more liberties when portraying the female form.

Uma Maheshvar

Vishnu

Cultural contributions

Chola Period

Under the Cholas, the Tamil country reached new heights of excellence in art, religion, music and literature.[168] In all of these spheres, the Chola period marked the culmination of movements that had begun in an earlier age under the Pallavas.[169] Monumental architecture in the form of majestic temples and sculpture in stone and bronze reached a finesse never before achieved in India.

Jewellery Style of Chola Period

The earliest evidences of miniature painting tradition

Mamaki with Vajra on Lotus Astasahasrika Prajnaparamita

Manuscript Pala School, late 11th Century

Mughal Emperor Akbar holding the gold crown in his hands

Akbar is shown seated on a throne and holding the crown in his hands. The inscription in

Devanagari script on the left side identifies the sitter as Akbar. The image is framed by

salmon and blue borders with illuminated floral motifs.

Emperor Shah Jahan on the peacock Throne

The emperor is portrayed with an exclusive green gemstone in his hand. The throne is

the most famous imperial seat marked in the history.

Maharaja Madho Singh of Jaipur

Maharaja Madho Singh is depicted with various jewelled ornaments such as bracelets,

armband, anklets, and sophisticated turban ornaments are also visible with an graceful

posture.

Indian jewellery inspired from visual arts of Ancient India

Indian jewellery inspired from visual arts of Ancient India

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Thank you

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