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MTT

erik saeys

Updated Feb. 19, 2023

Transcript

Bet Size

ADD YOUR

LOGO Jj,HERE

POKERSTRATEGY

TOURNAMENTS

Rule #1: Increase your preflop raise size when there is a weak player in the blinds.

The main goal for this adjustment is extracting more value from the weak player. Weak and inexperienced players tend to call raises with the same range of hands, regardless of size (known as a ‘static’ calling range).

If the weak player will call with the same range of hands versus a 3.5bb raise as they would versus a 2.5bb raise, you should opt for the former because it will allow you to win more money (on average).

Rule #2: 3-bet larger preflop when you will be out of position postflop.

You should 3-bet around three times your opponent’s raise size when you are in position and around four times your opponent’s raise size when you are out of position

When you are out of position, your opponent will realize his equity much more easily, which means you should size up your 3-bets. By contrast, you generally want to use a smaller 3-bet sizes in position because you want to put your opponent in a tough spot (facing a well-sized 3-bet out of position) with his medium strength hands.

There is no one ‘perfect’ bet size that can be used in all spots. The optimal bet size will depend on a number of factors, including:

 Preflop action
 Board texture
 Stack depth
 Who has the range advantage
 …and many more!

For example, this hand was played by John C. and analyzed by Doug in the private Upswing Lab group:

Online Cash 6-Handed. 100bb Effective Stacks.

Hero is dealt A♣ A♥ on the BTN.

UTG raises to 3bb. MP calls. CO folds. Hero raises to 11bb. SB folds. BB folds. UTG calls. MP calls.

Flop (34.5bb): 2♠ 5♥ 3♠

UTG checks. MP checks. Hero bets 12bb. UTG calls. MP calls.

Turn (70.5bb): 8♣

UTG checks. MP checks. Hero bets 22.32bb. UTG folds. MP calls.

River (115.14bb): 6♥

MP checks. Hero…?

Analysis from Doug

This ~33% flop bet size is too small given the board texture and stack-to-pot ratio. The board is low, but it is not static – our opponents can have a variety of flush draws and backdoor draws.

Our stack depth is another reason to large bet on this flop. If we bet 22bb (65% pot-size bet) and get called by one player, we will take a turn card with 78.5bb in the pot and 67bb behind. This stack-to-pot ratio allows us to comfortably shove on the turn (more on this in rule #5).

When we use a flop bet size that allows us to go all-in on the turn, our bluffs will generate more fold equity and our opponents won’t have a great price to draw.

It’s worth noting that checking on this flop would also be a reasonable play with aces.

Rule #3: Bet small (25-35% pot) on dry, static board textures

As well as functioning to get value, bets on the flop and turn deny your opponents their equity when they fold. In other words, you take away their chance of winning the pot by forcing them to fold with a bet.

When equity denial is not important, you are more incentivized to use small bet sizes. This is often the case on dry boards because most of your opponent’s hands will have little-to-no equity against your value betting range.

Another benefit of using a small bet size on dry boards is that calling ranges tend to be inelastic. Phrased differently: the likelihood that your opponent folds to a bet will be similar regardless of bet size. Why risk betting large with your bluffs when you can get the same result with a smaller bet?

Additionally, small bet sizes work well as an exploitative adjustment against players that fold too often. This is particularly true in live games and weak online environments where many opponents often play a ‘fit or fold’ postflop style.

Rule #4: Bet pretty large (55-80% pot) on wet, dynamic board textures

When your value betting range is vulnerable to being outdrawn, you should use a larger bet size. This strategy has three notable benefits:

Large bet sizes allow you to build the pot when you have a strong hand.

Larger bets extract more value before the turn or river has a chance to reduce your strong hand to a bluff-catcher.

For instance, almost half of the deck is a bad card for 9♣ 9♦ on T♥ 9♥ 5♠ 4♠.

Large bet sizes generate more fold equity, making your bluffs more effective

Here’s a hand played by an Upswing Lab member that demonstrates this concept:

Online Cash 6-Handed. 100bb Effective Stacks.

Hero is dealt 6♦ 5♦ in the CO.

UTG folds. MP folds. Hero raises to 2.5bb. BTN folds. SB folds. BB calls.

Flop (5.5bb): A♦ 8♠ 3♣

BB checks. Hero bets 1.8bb. BB folds.

Analysis from Doug

On a dry board like A♦ 8♠ 3♣, a small bet size (33% in this example) makes the most sense. This is because our range of value hands (88, 33, A8s, A3s, AK, AQ, etc) is unlikely to be outdrawn on the turn, so we aren’t as incentivized to drive out our opponent’s equity with a larger bet.

In the equity calculation below, we can see just how little equity the BB’s range has versus our value betting range:

bet size poker equity

The BB’s estimated range has just 11.32% equity

And this chart shows how much equity each hand in the BB’s range has versus our value betting range (does not include our bluffs):

bet size range breakdown

The overwhelming majority of the BB’s range poses very little threat to our value bets

Also, the BB’s calling range is likely to be inelastic in this spot. Hands like QJo and 65s will usually be folded regardless of the bet size because such hands have terrible playability on later streets. Not to mention they are drawing nearly dead against our value hands.

This example hand was played and submitted by Upswing Lab member Bogdan E.:

150/300 Live Tournament 9-Handed. 21,000 Effective Stacks.

Hero is dealt Q♥ Q♦ on the BTN.

UTG calls. UTG+1 calls. LJ calls. HJ folds. CO folds. Hero raises to 1,200. SB folds. BB calls. UTG+1 calls. LJ calls.

Flop (5,250): 3♠ 6♣ 9♥

BB checks. UTG+1 checks. LJ checks. Hero bets 3,000. BB folds. UTG+1 calls. LJ folds.

Turn (11,250): J♦

UTG+1 checks. Hero bets 7,000. UTG+1 raises to 15,000. Hero raises to 16,800 and is all-in. UTG+1 calls and shows 6d6h.

River (44,850): 5♣

Analysis from Doug

The first sizing error in this hand is the preflop raise — somewhere between 1,800 and 2,000 chips would have been better. With three limpers already in the pot, we need to raise to a size that doesn’t give our opponents such a good price to call.

Raising to a bigger size is particularly important with the hand we have, QQ, since high pocket pairs perform better with a low SPR and when fewer players see the flop.

Assuming we make it 1,800 and get the same number of callers, the pot on the flop will be 7,650 with 19,200 behind. Considering our SPR, using a size of around 5,000 (~65% pot) on the flop sets us up nicely for a shove on the turn — 14,200 into 17,650 assuming one caller (~80% pot).

This approach allows us to extract maximum value with our strong hands whilst ensuring we generate good fold equity with our bluffs (like QTs).

The larger sizes Bogdan actually used on the flop and turn will often times lead to an awkward spot on the river. Had our opponent not check-raised on the turn, we would have reached the river with less than a half-pot size bet behind (~10,000 into ~25,000) which is not ideal for our triple-barrel bluffs.

This hand was played by Doug and self-analyzed in his overbet module in the Upswing Lab:

$100/$200 Heads-Up. $59,416 Effective Stacks.

Doug is dealt 4♦ 2♦ in the BB.

BTN raises to $700. Doug calls.

Flop ($1,400): 5♠ A♥ Q♦

Doug checks. BTN bets $980. Doug calls.

Turn ($3,360): 3♣

Doug checks. BTN checks.

River ($3,360): 7♦

Doug checks. BTN bets $1,500. Doug raises to $10,800. BTN calls and mucks A♠ 2♥.

Analysis from Doug

We can make some assumptions about the button’s range once he checks the turn:

The button does not have the turned nuts (42) because that hand would almost certainly value bet on the turn.

The button does not have the rivered nuts (64) because a 6-high draw would almost certainly semi-bluff on the turn.

The sets and two pairs in the button’s preflop range (AA, QQ, 55, AQ, A5) are unlikely to have been played this way.

Since our opponent is very unlikely to have a nutted hand on this river, we can construct an overbetting strategy. Here is how we will divvy up our value range on the river:

Check-raise huge with our strongest hands (64, 42, 55, 33)

Overbet check-raising here allows us to extract an extra bet from our opponent’s bluffs, and get maximum value when our opponent bets-calls with a value hand (like the A2o here).

We also need to mix in some bluff check-raises here in order to balance out our value bets. 54 is a perfect candidate because it blocks set combos (55), two-pair combos (A5, Q5, 53) and straight combos (42 and 64).

The size of our check-raise in this spot should always be large (at least 2x pot) because we are representing a polarized range.

Overbet lead with the rest of our value hands (35, A5, A3, A7, some Ax)

We can then overbet lead with our medium-to-strong hands, which prevents our opponent from checking back for free on the river.

Rule #5: The stack-to-pot ratio should influence your bet size

Your stack-to-pot ratio (SPR) is an important factor to consider when choosing a bet size.

You have to think ahead, considering what the size of the pot will be on later streets and how you intend to proceed with your value hands and bluffs.

Many players will bet too large on the flop and turn, and as a result end up with a tiny bet left behind on the river. Bluffing is extremely ineffective in such situations because tiny river shoves generate little-to-no fold equity, which is not a desirable situation.

Rule #6: Overbet when you have a nut advantage

Overbets work well on boards that favor your range over your opponent’s range, particularly when only you are able to have the stongest hands.

An overbetting range should also be polarized, made up of only strong hands and bluffs. Using such a large size allows you to get the maximum with your value hands, and generate maximum fold equity with our bluffs.

The most effective overbet bluffs are usually hands that block our opponent’s most likely strong hands that will call. The best example of this is using the nut flush blocker on a three-to-a-flush board (think A♦ K♠ on Q♦ 8♦ 2♣ 6♦ 3♠).

Rule #7: Bet at least 66% pot on the turn when firing the second continuation bet

The most important concept to keep in mind for playing on the turn is polarization. You want your betting range to be comprised of hands that will be able to value bet on the river very often and hands that have a decent chance to improve to the best hand on the river.

Middling hands, which are typically included in small betting ranges, should be checked for the following reasons:

If the turn checks through, middling hands will be strong enough to bet on the river for value.

You can use middling hands to catch your opponent’s bluffs on the river.

Middling hands protect the weak showdown value hands (such as A/K-high) with which you would also check.

Including middling hands in your turn checking range will allow you to credibly bluff with very weak hands on the river.

This way, all your hands work symbiotically to maximize the expected value (EV) of your whole strategy.

Because you are using a polarized strategy, your bet size should be bigger in order to extract maximum value with your strong hands and to increase the frequency at which you can bluff. Using anything less than 66% in the vast majority of cases will just lower your overall EV.

Rule #8: You should usually c-bet between 25-40% of the pot in 3-bet pots

This is tied to rule #5.

Because the stack-to-pot ratio is so low in 3-bet pots, you can put all your stack in on the river with under pot sized bets, even if you start with a very low c-bet size. Furthermore, this bet size is also the one that solvers prefers both in position and out of position.

Given the ranges involved a small bet usually puts enough pressure on the middling part of your villain’s hands (make him have a hard time with them).

Nuance!

PROJECT

OVERVIEW

Sept façons de se sortir d’affaire lorsque vous êtes Card Dead

On s’est tous assis un jour à la table d’un tournoi pour, dès le début de la partie, voire après avoir pris une pause, ne recevoir que les pires cartes imaginables. Rien de supérieur à neuf (soit 60 % des fois), aucune paire, rien qui ne ressemble même à un connecteur, et il n’en faut pas plus pour faire perdre tout espoir à un joueur inexpérimenté. Vous êtes alors, comme on dit dans le jargon, card dead. Être card dead, ce qui est une façon de dire que l’on ne reçoit que des mains de départ de petite valeur, est en réalité une situation fréquemment rencontrée au poker. On l’accuse souvent d’être responsable lorsqu’un joueur se fait sortir d’un tournoi, qu’il rencontre une mauvaise passe, ou qu’il s’emballe après avoir reçu un Kh-Th pour finir par engager l’intégralité de ses jetons restants. Mais il est réellement faux et injuste de croire que le fait d’être « card dead » est responsable de vos éliminations en tournoi.

Être card dead peut en réalité s’avérer être une bonne chose !

Observez Vos Adversaires

Un moyen de mettre à profit le laps de temps pendant lequel vous n’êtes pas impliqué dans une, voire plusieurs mains, est d’observer attentivement vos adversaires. Si vous jouez par exemple à neuf joueurs dans le cadre d’un tournoi live, vous pouvez facilement passer une heure à observer tous vos adversaires pour mieux les catégoriser individuellement. Quelles sont leurs cartes fermées au moment de l’abattage ? À quelle fréquence bluffent-ils ? Si ces éléments sont essentiels, chaque table comptant de nombreux joueurs révèle toutefois une flopée d’indices différents. Tâchez de vous concentrer davantage sur les deux joueurs à votre gauche (les blinds lorsque vous êtes au bouton) et sur ceux à votre droite, afin de vous préparer au moment où votre mise de départ obligatoire sera sur le tapis.

Si vous vous retrouvez à vous coucher avec un 9-2 dépareillé trois mains de suite, plutôt que de vous déconcentrer, profitez-en pour surveiller attentivement les joueurs que vous tenterez de battre une fois que vous serez de retour dans le jeu. Vous serez surpris de constater à quel point la collecte d’informations vous rapportera gros par la suite.

Le Bluff de l’Aveugle

Vous devriez chercher à voler les blinds, peu importe que vous receviez de bonnes cartes ou non, car si tout le monde passe et que vous recevez des mauvaises cartes alors que vous êtes au bouton, vous devriez de faire des moves sur les joueurs en position de blind. Pour autant que vous les ayez observés attentivement, vous saurez s’ils sont susceptibles de se coucher directement suite à de nombreuses relances lorsqu’ils sont hors position, ou s’ils vont au contraire tenter de défendre leurs blinds.

S’ils optent pour une stratégie de défense, vont-ils sur-relancer avec une main faible dans le but de protéger leur blind ? Ou sont-ils plutôt du genre à suivre une relance avec une main faible pour ensuite se coucher au flop ?

15 BB Blind vs Blind

Defend 15BB vs open

Agressor

Defender

Not possible

100BB

vs utg

vs hj

vs co

vs bu

vs utg2

vs mp

vs sb

VS SB

VS CO

VS BU

VS UTG

VS UTG+3

Reshove Strategy

Defend 10BB vs open

50BB

VS UTG

VS SB

VS UTG+3

VS CO

VS BU

vs utg1

vs mp

vs hj

vs co

vs bu

vs sb

call 100% Bizar!!

40BB

vs utg

vs mp

vs co

vs bu

BB vs SB

Zie shallow stack strategy

30BB

vs utg

vs mp

vs hj

vs co

vs bu

vs sb

BB defence vs Multiway

20BB/25BB

vs bu

vs utg

vs mp

vs co

vs sb

BB vs SB 25BB

BB

vs bb Ai sur r SB

15BB

8BB

vs bb Ai/3b sur L SB

15BB

Agressor

Defender

Shove Range SB

vs bb 3bet

vs bb Ai sur L SB

vs BU

vs CO

vs utg

vs utg23

10BB

vs bb Ai/3b sur L SB

100BB

vs bb Ai sur L SB

vs utg2

vs mp

vs utg

vs hj

vs co

vs bu

15BB: 22+ Kx+ Q2s+ Q5o+ J2s+ J7o+ T2s+ T7o+ 93s+ 96o+ 84s+ 86o+ 73s+ 76o 63s+ 65o 53s+ 43s

14BB: 22+ Kx+ Q2s+ Q5o+ J2s+ J7o+ T3s+ T7o+ 94s+ 97o+ 84s+ 86o+ 74s+ 76o 63s+ 65o 53s+ 43s

13BB: 22+ Kx+ Q2s+ Q4o+ J2s+ J7o+ T2s+ T7o+ 93s+ 96o+ 84s+ 86o+ 73s+ 76o 63s+ 65o 52s+ 43s

12BB: 22+ Kx+ Q2s+ Q3o+ J2s+ J7o+ T2s+ T7o+ 93s+ 96o+ 84s+ 86o+ 74s+ 76o 63s+ 65o 53s+ 43s

11BB: 22+ Qx+ J2s+ J7o+ T2s+ T7o+ 93s+ 96o+ 84s+ 86o+ 73s+ 76o 63s+ 65o 52s+ 43s

10BB: 22+ Qx+ J2s+ J5o+ T2s+ T6o+ 92s+ 96o+ 83s+ 86o+ 73s+ 75o+ 63s+ 65o 52s+ 54o 42s+

9BB: 22+ Qx+ J2s+ J3o+ T2s+ T6o+ 92s+ 96o+ 82s+ 85o+ 73s+ 75o+ 63s+ 65o 52s+ 54o 42s+

8BB: 22+ Jx+ T2s+ T6o+ 92s+ 96o+ 83s+ 86o+ 73s+ 75o+ 63s+ 65o 52s+ 54o 43s

7BB: 22+ Jx+ T2s+ T4o+ 92s+ 95o+ 82s+ 85o+ 73s+ 75o+ 62s+ 65o 52s+ 54o 42s+

6BB: 22+ Jx+ T2s+ T3o+ 92s+ 95o+ 82s+ 85o+ 73s+ 75o+ 63s+ 65o 52s+ 54o 43s

5BB: 22+ Tx+ 92s+ 95o+ 82s+ 85o+ 73s+ 75o+ 63s+ 65o 53s+ 43s

10BB

3bet oop vs MP raise

vs BU

vs CO

vs utg23

vs utg

60BB

vs utg23

50BB

vs utg

vs mp

vs bu

vs co

Reshove

Openraise Strategy -40BB

Vs Tight Pl

Mix Passive

Mix Good Pl

Vs Good Pl

40BB

SB vs BB 40BB

vs bu

vs utg

vs mp

vs co

(Alternative strategy vs shove)

15BB F.RFI OOP

15BB RFI

Limpstrategie

30BB

vs utg

vs mp

vs co

vs bu

15BBSB vs BB (Blindbattle)

20BB/25BB

vs utg

vs mp

vs co

vs bu

SB vs BB 25BB

SB

Agressor

Defender

Shove BU

Agressor

100BB

15BB

vs utg

vs utg2

vs mp

vs hj

vs co

When V1 raise EP & V2 call

15BB: 22+ Ax+ K4s+ KTo+ Q6s+ QTo+ J7s+ JTo T7s+ T9o 96s+ 86s+ 76s 65s

14BB: 22+ Ax+ K4s+ KTo+ Q6s+ QTo+ J7s+ J9o+ T7s+ T9o 96s+ 86s+ 76s 65s

13BB: 22+ Ax+ K3s+ K9o+ Q6s+ QTo+ J7s+ J9o+ T7s+ T9o 96s+ 86s+ 75s+ 65s

12BB:

11BB: 22+ Ax+ K2s+ K8o+ Q5s+ Q9o+ J7s+ J9o+ T6s+ T9o 96s+ 86s+ 75s+ 65s 54s

10BB: 22+ Ax+ K2s+ K6o+ Q5s+ Q9o+ J7s+ J9o+ T6s+ T9o 96s+ 98o 85s+ 75s+ 65s 54s

9BB: 2+ Ax+ K2s+ K6o+ Q5s+ Q9o+ J7s+ J9o+ T6s+ T9o 96s+ 98o 85s+ 75s+ 65s 54s

8BB: 22+ Ax+ K2s+ K6o+ Q4s+ Q9o+ J6s+ J9o+ T6s+ T8o+ 96s+ 98o 85s+ 75s+ 64s+ 54s

7BB: 22+ Ax+ K2s+ K4o+ Q3s+ Q8o+ J5s+ J9o+ T6s+ T8o+ 96s+ 98o 85s+ 75s+ 64s+ 54s

6BB: 22+ Ax+ K2s+ K3o+ Q3s+ Q8o+ J5s+ J9o+ T6s+ T8o+ 95s+ 98o 85s+ 75s+ 64s+ 54s

5BB: 22+ Kx+ Q2s+ Q8o+ J4s+ J8o+ T6s+ T8o+ 95s+ 98o 85s+ 87o 75s+ 64s+ 54s

10BB

50BB

60BB

vs utg

vs mp

vs co

(Alternative strategy vs shove)

40BB

15BB F.RFI InPos.

15BB RFI

vs utg

vs mp

vs co

30BB

Reshove

vs utg

vs mp

vs co

Zie shallow stack video

20BB/25BB

Limp/Raise strategy 20BB

vs utg

vs co

vs mp

20BB

25BB

BU

Agressor

Defender

Shove CO

100BB

vs UTG2

VS UTG

CO vs HJ

CO vs MP

50BB

15BB: 22+ A2s+ A4o+ K6s+ KTo+ Q8s+ QTo+ J8s+ JTo T8s+ 97s+ 87s

14BB: 22+ A2s+ A4o+ K6s+ KTo+ Q8s+ QTo+ J8s+ JTo T8s+ 97s+ 87s

13BB: 22+ Ax+ K6s+ KTo+ Q8s+ QTo+ J8s+ JTo T7s+ 97s+ 87s 76s

12BB: 22+ Ax+ K6s+ KTo+ Q8s+ QTo+ J8s+ JTo T7s+ 97s+ 87s 76s

11BB: 22+ Ax+ K6s+ KTo+ Q8s+ QTo+ J8s+ JTo T7s+ 97s+ 87s 76s

10BB: 22+ Ax+ K5s+ KTo+ Q8s+ QTo+ J7s+ JTo T7s+ 97s+ 86s+ 76s

9BB: 22+ Ax+ K5s+ KTo+ Q8s+ QTo+ J7s+ JTo T7s+ T9o 97s+ 86s+ 76s

8BB: 22+ Ax+ K4s+ K9o+ Q6s+ QTo+ J7s+ J9o+ T7s+ T9o 96s+ 86s+ 76s 65s

7BB: 22+ Ax+ K2s+ K9o+ Q5s+ QTo+ J7s+ J9o+ T7s+ T9o 96s+ 86s+ 75s+ 65s 54s

6BB: 22+ Ax+ K2s+ K8o+ Q5s+ Q9o+ J7s+ J9o+ T6s+ T9o 96s+ 86s+ 75s+ 65s 54s

5BB: 22+ Ax+ K2s+ K6o+ Q5s+ Q9o+ J7s+ J9o+ T6s+ T9o 96s+ 98o 85s+ 75s+ 65s 54s

vs utg

60BB

15BB

40BB

vs utg

vs mp

(Alternative strategy vs shove)

10BB

15BB RFI

15BB F.RFI InPos.

40BB

30BB

vs utg

vs mp

vs hj

Reshove

30BB

When V1 raise MP & V2 call

20BB/25BB

Zie shallow stack strategy video

vs utg

vs hj

vs mp

No 25BB range

20BB-25BB

CO

Agressor

Defender

Reshove

Shove HJ

100BB

HJ vs UTG

HJ vs UTG+2

HJ vs MP

15BB: 22+ A3s+ A9o+ K7s+ KJo+ Q8s+ QJo J8s+ T8s+ 98s

14BB: 22+ A2s+ A9o+ K7s+ KJo+ Q8s+ QJo J8s+ JTo T8s+ 98s

13BB: 22+ A2s+ A8o+ K7s+ KJo+ Q8s+ QJo J8s+ JTo T8s+ 98s

12BB: 22+ Ax+ K2s+ K9o+ Q6s+ QTo+ J7s+ J9o+ T7s+ T9o 96s+ 86s+ 75s+ 65s 54s

11BB: 22+ A2s+ A7o+ A5o K7s+ KTo+ Q8s+ QTo+ J8s+ JTo T8s+ 98s 87s

10BB: 22+ A2s+ A4o+ K6s+ KTo+ Q8s+ QTo+ J8s+ JTo T8s+ 97s+ 87s

9BB: 22+ A2s+ A4o+ K6s+ KTo+ Q8s+ QTo+ J8s+ JTo T7s+ 97s+ 87s 76s

8BB: 22+ Ax+ K6s+ KTo+ Q8s+ QTo+ J8s+ JTo T7s+ 97s+ 87s 76s

7BB: 22+ Ax+ K6s+ KTo+ Q8s+ QTo+ J8s+ JTo T7s+ 97s+ 87s 76s

6BB: 33.0%, 22+ Ax+ K5s+ KTo+ Q8s+ QTo+ J7s+ JTo T7s+ 97s+ 86s+ 76s

5BB: 22+ Ax+ K4s+ K9o+ Q6s+ QTo+ J7s+ J9o+ T7s+ T9o 96s+ 86s+ 76s 65s

When V1 raise EP & V2 call

60BB

50BB

Geen

50BB

No calling strategy with this stack & position

Only shove & raise 2bb

40BB

15BB F.RFI InPos.

15BB RFI

HJ vs UTG

HJ vs MP

30BB

Geen zie ook BPC

20BB/25BB

HJ vs UTG

HJ vs MP

20BB-25BB

HJ

Agressor

Defender

Shove LJ

Reshove

100BB

MP vs UTG

MP vs UTG+2

15BB: 22+ A7s+ A5s-A4s ATo+ K9s+ KJo+ Q9s+ QJo J9s+ T9s

14BB: 22+ A7s+ A5s-A3s ATo+ K9s+ KJo+ Q9s+ QJo J9s+ T9s 98s

13BB: 22+ A7s+ A5s-A3s ATo+ K8s+ KJo+ Q9s+ QJo J9s+ T9s 98s

12BB: 22+ A3s+ A9o+ K8s+ KJo+ Q8s+ QJo J8s+ T8s+ 98s

11BB: 22+ A2s+ A9o+ K7s+ KJo+ Q8s+ QJo J8s+ T8s+ 98s

10BB: 22+ A2s+ A8o+ K7s+ KJo+ Q8s+ QJo J8s+ JTo T8s+ 98s

9BB: 22+ A2s+ A8o+ K7s+ KJo+ Q8s+ QTo+ J8s+ JTo T8s+ 98s

8BB: 22+ A2s+ A7o+ A5o K7s+ KTo+ Q8s+ QTo+ J8s+ JTo T8s+ 98s 87s

7BB: 22+ A2s+ A4o+ K6s+ KTo+ Q8s+ QTo+ J8s+ JTo T8s+ 97s+ 87s

6BB: 22+ Ax+ K6s+ KTo+ Q8s+ QTo+ J8s+ JTo T7s+ 97s+ 87s 76s

5BB: 22+ Ax+ K6s+ KTo+ Q8s+ QTo+ J8s+ JTo T7s+ 97s+ 87s 76s

50BB

60BB

(Alternative strategy vs shove)

50BB

15BB RFI

40BB

30BB

20BB

LJ

No LJ 25BB Range

Agressor

Defender

Reshove

Shove UTG+2

100BB

Idem UTG

UTG call vs Rejam

15BB: 33+ A9s+ A5s AJo+ K9s+ KJo+ QTs+ J9s+ T9s

14BB: 33+ A9s+ A5s AJo+ K9s+ KJo+ Q9s+ J9s+ T9s

13BB: 22+ A7s+ A5s-A4s ATo+ K9s+ KJo+ Q9s+ J9s+ T9s

12BB: 22+ A7s+ A5s-A4s ATo+ K9s+ KJo+ Q9s+ J9s+ T9s

11BB: 22+ A7s+ A5s-A4s A9o+ K9s+ KJo+ Q9s+ QJo J9s+ T9s

10BB: 22+ A7s+ A5s-A3s ATo+ K8s+ KJo+ Q8s+ QJo J9s+ T9s 98s

9BB: 22+ A3s+ A9o+ K8s+ KJo+ Q8s+ QJo J8s+ T8s+ 98s

8BB: 22+ A2s+ A9o+ K7s+ KJo+ Q8s+ QJo J8s+ T8s+ 98s

7BB: 22+ A2s+ A8o+ K7s+ KJo+ Q8s+ QJo J8s+ JTo T8s+ 98s

6BB: 22+ A2s+ A7o+ A5o K7s+ KTo+ Q8s+ QTo+ J8s+ JTo T8s+ 98s 87s

5BB: 22+ A2s+ A4o+ K6s+ KTo+ Q8s+ QTo+ J8s+ JTo T8s+ 97s+ 87s

60BB

Agressor idem utg 2

(Alternative strategy vs shove)

40BB

15BB RFI

10BB

30BB

15BB

20BB-25BB

UTG+2

Defender

Agressor

Shove UTG+1

100BB

VS open 2.5x

VS open 3x

VS open 2x

15BB: 44+ A9s+ A5s AJo+ K9s+ KQo QTs+ JTs

14BB: 44+ A9s+ A5s AJo+ K9s+ KQo QTs+ JTs T9s

13BB: 33+ A9s+ A5s AJo+ K9s+ KQo QTs+ J9s+ T9s

12BB: 33+ A9s+ A5s AJo+ K9s+ KQo QTs+ J9s+ T9s

11BB: 22+ A8s+ A5s-A4s A9o+ K9s+ KJo+ Q9s+ J9s+ T9s

10BB: 22+ A7s+ A5s-A4s ATo+ K9s+ KJo+ Q9s+ J9s+ T9s

9BB: 22+ A7s+ A5s-A4s ATo+ K9s+ KJo+ Q9s+ J9s+ T9s

8BB: 22+ A7s+ A5s-A3s ATo+ K8s+ KJo+ Q9s+ QJo J9s+ T9s 98s

7BB: 22+ A3s+ A9o+ K8s+ KJo+ Q8s+ QJo J8s+ T8s+ 98s

6BB: 22+ A2s+ A8o+ K7s+ KJo+ Q8s+ QJo J8s+ JTo T8s+ 98s

5BB: 22+ A2s+ A7o+ A5o K7s+ KTo+ Q8s+ QTo+ J8s+ JTo T8s+ 98s 87s

60BB

50BB

10BB

Reshove

No calling strategy with this stack & position

40BB

15BB F.RFI InPos.

15BB RFI

15BB

30BB

Alleen 3B

Vs utg

30BB

UTG call vs Rejam

20BB-25BB

Vs utg

Alternatief

UTG+1

Agressor

Reshove

Shove UTG

No posssible to defende UTG! You're RFI

100BB

15BB: 44+ A9s+ AJo+ KTs+ QTs+ JTs

14BB: 44+ A9s+ AJo+ KTs+ QTs+ JTs

13BB: 44+ A9s+ A5s AJo+ KTs+ KQo QTs+ JTs

12BB: 44+ A9s+ A5s AJo+ K9s+ KQo QTs+ JTs T9s

11BB: 33+ A9s+ A5s AJo+ K9s+ KJo+ QTs+ J9s+ T9s

10BB: 33+ A9s+ A5s AJo+ K9s+ KJo+ Q9s+ J9s+ T9s

9BB: 22+ A8s+ A5s-A4s ATo+ K9s+ KJo+ Q9s+ J9s+ T9s

8BB: 22+ A7s+ A5s-A4s ATo+ K9s+ KJo+ Q9s+ J9s+ T9s

7BB: 22+ A7s+ A5s-A4s ATo+ K9s+ KJo+ Q9s+ QJo J9s+ T9s

6BB: 22+ A7s+ A5s-A3s ATo+ K8s+ KJo+ Q8s+ QJo J8s+ T9s 98s

5BB: 22+ A2s+ A9o+ K7s+ KJo+ Q8s+ QJo J8s+ T8s+ 98s

60BB

Shove

15BB RFI

40BB

30BB

20BB-25BB

UTG

15 BB Blind vs Blind

Defend 15BB vs open

Agressor

Defender

Not possible

100BB

vs utg

vs hj

vs co

vs bu

vs utg2

vs mp

vs sb

VS SB

VS CO

VS BU

VS UTG

VS UTG+3

Reshove Strategy

Defend 10BB vs open

50BB

VS UTG

VS SB

VS UTG+3

VS CO

VS BU

vs utg1

vs mp

vs hj

vs co

vs bu

vs sb

call 100% Bizar!!

BB vs SB

15BB: Vs open SB 2.5x

8BB

40BB

vs utg

vs mp

vs co

vs bu

BB vs SB

10BB

15BB: Vs ai SB

8BB

15BB: Vs Limp SB