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CHEMISTRY, INGREDIENTS,

Ch 13: Skin Care Products

AND SELECTION

COSMETIC CHEMISTRY

Performance Ingredients Cont.

Product Safety

PG 303-352

Cosmetics

Cosmetics: articles intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled, or otherwise applied to the human body or any part thereof for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering appearance.

Drugs: products intended to affect the structures and/or functions of the body of humans or other animals.

Estheticians focus on improving the skin's cosmetic appearance. (pg. 307)

Product Components

Ingredients

Functional ingredients: allow product to spread, give body and texture, give a specific form such as lotion, cream, or gel

Performance ingredients: cause actual changes in the appearance of the skin.

Product Components

Water is the most commonly used cosmetic ingredient. Products that do not contain water are called anhydrous. (pg. 308)

Emollients

Emollients are "fatty" materials (derived from oils or fats) used to lubricate and moisturize the skin.

Emollients function as vehicles to help place, spread, and keep substances on the skin; they also function as performance ingredients by trapping water and preventing TEWL. (pg. 309)

Emollients

Oils

Oils vary in density, fat content, heaviness, and comedogenecy.

Oils from the Earth: Offer excellent protection against dehydration, prevent irritant skin contact, and do not react with other chemicals involved in skin's function. They do not harbor bacteria, and can be blended with water to form a cream, lotion, or fluid. Ex: mineral oil, petrolatum (pg 309)

Oils

Oils from plants: Most plant oils are used for emollient properties, ex: jojoba, safflower, canola, sunflower.

Others are used for fragrance, ex: aromatherapy, essential oils (pg. 310)

Other Emollients

  • Fatty Acids: derived from plant oils or animal fats. Ex: oleic acid, stearic acid
  • Fatty Alcohols: fatty acids that have been exposed to hydrogen. They have a waxy consistency, used as spreading agents. Ex: stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol
  • Fatty Esters: produced by combining fatty acids and fatty alcohols. Usually end in "-ate". Ex: isopropyl palmitate, glyceryl stearate
  • Silicones: oils that are chemically combined with silicon and oxygen for non-comedogenic film on skin. Excellent occlusive ingredient. Ex: dimethicone, cyclomethicone (pg. 310)

Other Emollients

Comedogenicity

Comedogenicity

Defined as: tendency of any topical substance to cause or to worsen a buildup of dead cells in the follicle, leading to the development of a comedo. (pg. 311)

Surfactants

Surfactants

Surfactants reduce the surface tension between the skin and the product, and increase spreadability of cosmetic products. Detergents and emulsifiers are surfactants.

Detergents are the main type of surfactant used in skin-cleansing products. They cause cleansers to foam. Soaps may be combined with detergents to make cleansers. Ex: sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate, ammonium lauryl sulfate.

Emulsifiers cause oils and water to mix, forming an emulsion. Ex: polysorbate, potassium cetyl sulfate (pg. 312)

Other Product Components

Other Product Components

Gellants and Thickeners: agents that are used to give a product a gel-like consistency. Ex: carbomers

Fragrances: can come from plant, animal, or synthetic sources. Ex: essential oils

Preservatives: prevent bacteria and other microorganisms from living in a product. Ex: parabens, quaternium 15, urea

  • Chelating agents boost preservatives. Ex: disodium EDTA, trisodium EDTA
  • Antioxidants are also preservatives, they prevent oxidation in products and in the skin.

pH Adjustors: acids or alkalis used to change or stabilize the pH of a product. Ex: sodium hydroxide, citric acid

Solvents: substances that dissolve other ingredients. Ex: water, alcohol

Botanicals: ingredients derived from plants

Healing Agents: performance ingredients that heal the skin. Ex: chamomile, licorice, azulene, aloe (pg. 314)

Colorants

Colorants

Colorants are vegetable, pigment, or mineral dyes that give product color.

Certified colors: synthetic, inorganic, aka: metal salts.

Noncertified colors: organic compounds from animal or plant extracts, can also be natural mineral pigments. These are less irritating and are better suited for cosmetic application around the eyes.

Lakes: insoluble pigments made by combining a dye with an inorgainc material. Commonly found in colorful cosmetics

Exempt colors: those that do not require certification. Used in coverage makeup products. Ex: zinc oxide, iron oxide, carmine, mica, ultramarine colors. (pg 314)

Hydrators and Moisturizers

Hydrators, humectants, and hydrophilic agents are all ingredients that attract water to the skin's surface. Most moisturizing products are combinations of emollients and humectants.

Hydrators & Moisturizers

Lipids are used to improve hydration, plumpness, and smoothness of the skin, and reduce sensitivity by improving barrier function. (pg. 315)

Exfoliating Ingredients

Exfoliation is the removal of dead corneum cells on the epidermis.

Exfoliants are mechanical (manual) and chemical ingredients that exfoliate the skin.

Mechanical exfoliants include jojoba beads, ground nuts, sugar, and polyethylene.

Chemical exfoliants include AHAs, BHAs, and Enzymes.

Performance Ingredients

AHAs and BHAs

Glycolic Acid Peel Series

AHAs and BHAs

Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and Beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) are naturally occurring mild acids used as chemical exfoliants.

AHAs: loosen the bond between cells in the epidermis, accelerating the cell turnover rate. AHAs help with pigmentation, wrinkles, texture, and congestion. Ex: glycolic, lactic, malic, citric, tartaric

BHAs: dissolve sebum in the pores and soften keratin, helping to relieve congestion. Ex: salicylic acid, white willow bark (pg. 315)

Salicylic Acid Peel Series

NOTE: Clients with an aspirin allergy cannot use Salicylic acid

Enzymes

Enzymes are keratolytic, meaning they dissolve keratin proteins on the surface of the skin to make it softer, smoother, and help maintain hydration in the epidermis.

Enzymatic exfoliation is considered a more passive means of exfoliation, and most enzyme exfoliants have anti-imflammatory properties. Ex: papain, bromelain, pancreatin (pg. 315)

Enzymes

Lighteners & Brighteners

4% Hydroquinone

Ingredients used in the bleaching or lightening of the skin. They work by bleaching the upper layers of the skin, or by preventing melanocytes from producing melanin. These ingredients are also called Tyrosinase inhibitors. Ex: kojic acid, arbutin, vitamin C, licorice root, green tea extract, AHAs and BHAs. (pg. 316)

Lighteners & Brighteners

Delivery Systems

Delivery Systems

Chemical systems that deliver ingredients to specific areas of the epidermis.

  • Vehicles: spreading agents, carrying bases. They carry or deliver other ingredients and make them more effective. Ex: Water, emollients
  • Liposomes: Closed lipid bilayer spheres that encapsulate ingredients, target delivery to specific areas, and control their release. Different than micelle emulsions.
  • Polymers: Chemical compounds used as advanced vehicles, releasing substances onto skin's surface at a controlled rate. (pg. 316)

Cell Metabolism

Microchanneling with Stem Cells

Cell Metabolism

High tech ingredients are designed to improve metabolic processes, reducing the signs of aging.

  • Polyglucans and beta-glucans: Enhance the skin's defense mechanism and stimulate cell metabolism. Derived from yeast, hydrophilic polyglucans absorb 10X their weight in water and help preserve hydration, collagen, and elastin.
  • Tisssure Respiratory Factor (TRF): anti-inflammatory and moisturizing
  • Stem Cells: Derived from plants to protect or stimulate our own stem cells for health and anti-aging benefits.
  • Epidermal Growth Factor (EGF): stimulates cell division, used for healing wounds or burns. (pg. 317)

Peptides

Peptides

Chains of amino acids used to produce changes in the skin's appearance. They are shown to improve tissue repair, collagen production, and elastin production. Often used with hydrators and antioxidants. Ex: palmitoyl pentapeptide-3, palmitoyl oligopeptide

Glycoproteins: Enhance immune response and cellular metabolism, boosting oxygen intake and strengthening the skin's defense. Especially beneficial to skin that appears unhealthy, dull from smoking, has diffused redness or environmental damage. (pg. 317)

Retinol

1% Retinol after 1 month

Derived from Vitamin A, Retinol stimulates cell repair and helps to normalize skin cells by generating new cells. It is an antioxidant with exfoliating properties. Retinoic acid (Retin-A, Tretinoin, Renova, Tazorac) is keratolytic, and used for problems such as acne, sun damage, and wrinkles. (pg. 318)

*Anyone using retinoids should be under the care of a physician and should not receive hair removal or laser treatments unless approved by the doctor. *

Retinol

Tretinoin treatment

Antioxidants

Antioxidants are vitamins, amino acids, and other natural substances that, when applied topically, neutralize free radicals in the skin. They are also added to products as a preservative. They can help prevent wrinkles, promote skin healing, and reduce the formation of scar tissue (presurgical and postsurgical). (pg. 318)

Antioxidants

Free Radicals

Free radicals are aggressive, unstable, oxygen-containing molecules with an unpaired electron. They have lost an electron and will steal electrons from other stable molecules, damaging them, and creating more free radicals. One free radical can damage millions of other compounds. They cause damage to cell membranes, DNA and RNA, and contribute to the hardening of elastin and collagen.

Free Radicals

Antioxidant Ingredients

Antioxidant Ingredients

  • ACEs: Vitamins A, C, and E interfere with inflammation, reducing production of enzymes that destroy skin cells
  • Vitamin C: water-soluble, strengthens the white blood cells and immune system and is essential for producing collagen.
  • Ester Vitamin C: oil-soluble, highly stable, stimulates fibroblasts and cell metabolism.
  • Alpha Lipoic Acid: water- and oil-soluble, natural antioxidant found in the body, increases cell metabolism, boosts other antioxidants, reduces redness.
  • DMAE (dimethylaminoethanol): boosts other antioxidants, increases chemicals that control muscle tone, thus improving the appearance of sagging skin.
  • Coenzyme Q10: protects and revitalizes cells, fortifies skin immune function, visible reduction of wrinkles and fine lines. (pg. 319)

Sunscreen Ingredients

There are 2 types of active sunscreen ingredients: chemical (organic) and physical (inorganic).

SPF (Sun Protection Factor): the ability of a product to delay sun-induced erythema (sunburn). SPF is based on UVB protection, not UVA. (pg. 319)

Sunscreen

Physical

  • Inorganic (without carbon)
  • Deflects UV radiation
  • Ex: Titanium Dioxide, Zinc Oxide

Chemical

  • Organic (carbon based)
  • Absorbs UV radiation
  • Ex: Octinoxate, Octisalate, Oxybenzone

Product Safety

Natural vs. Synthetic: Natural products can have powerful skin benefits, but some of the most effective ingredients are synthetically produced.

Organic Ingredients: intended to be natural products grown without the use of pesticides or chemicals. However, there is no organic labeling standard for cosmetics in the United States at this time.

The FDA does not require approval of cosmetics before their manufacture and sale, but they do require them to be safe, labeled correctly, and claims be proven. Ingredients must be labeled in descending order of predominance. (pg. 322)

FDA

Natural Ingredients

Foods and Their Benefits

Herbs and Plants

Natural

  • Aromatic: lavender, mint, rose, orange, eucalyptus
  • Antiseptic: peppermint, tea tree, clove
  • Astringent: comfrey root (allantoin), witch hazel, alum root, lemon
  • Stimulating: eucalyptus, wintergreen, spearmint
  • Calming: comfrey root, chamomile (azulene), almond
  • Cleansing: lemongrass, aloe
  • Healing: chamomile, comfrey, aloe
  • Moisturizing: rose, chamomile
  • Avocado: rich in vitamins and oil; beneficial for dry and sensitive skin
  • Cucumber: soothing and healing
  • Eggs: toning and tightening
  • Herbs: great for use in masks and compresses
  • Honey: hydrating, toning, tightening
  • Lemon: brightening, astringent
  • Oatmeal: soothing, healing
  • Papaya: enzymatic exfoliant
  • Potatoes: reduce puffiness in the eye area
  • Tea: reduce puffiness in the eye area
  • Yogurt: cleansing and mildly astringent

Aromatherapy

Aromatherapy

An ancient healing practice using essential oils and aromas from plants to treat the body, mind, and spirit. Essential oils can affect the brain and emotions. Synthetically produced oils do not have therapeutic value that natural oils retain through the extraction. Aromatherapy oils can moisturize, stimulate, cleanse, soothe, and nourish. (pg. 331)

Mature Skin

Mature Skin

Topical ingredients for mature skin need to have high-tech delivery systems, such as liposomes, to deliver ingredients effectively into the skin. One effective formula for mature skin is a combination of alpha lipoic acid, vitamin C ester, DMAE, and glycolic acid. Other ingredients include:

  • Green tea
  • Dipotassium glycyrrhizate (licorice root)
  • Squalane oil
  • Seaweed
  • Chamomile
  • Micronized vitamin E
  • Panthenol (vit B5)
  • Allantoin
  • Guarana
  • Rose essential oil
  • Vitamin K (pg. 331)

Product Selection

The most important step in recommending and applying product is determining which ingredients are best for your client's skin, all skin is unique. Using the correct ingredients is essential for healthy skin. Most products can be grouped into these main categories:

  • Cleansers
  • Toners
  • Exfoliants
  • Masks

Product Selection

  • Hydrators and Moisturizers
  • Serums and Ampoules
  • Sunscreens

Cleansers

Most cleansers are meant to be used twice per day as the first step in your skin care routine. All cleansers should leave the skin pH-balanced, and soap is not usually a recommended ingredient because it is alkaline, causing dryness. There are many different types of cleansers, and they all have several benefits:

  • Dissolve makeup and dirt, keeping pores clean
  • May contain emollients to soften dry skin
  • May contain ingredients to counteract various skin problems
  • Additional ingredients can help certain skin conditions such as sensitivity, dehydration, or capillary problems.

Cleansers

Types of Cleansers

Types of Cleansers

  • Cleansing Gel: detergent-type "foaming" cleanser with a neutral or slightly acidic pH. These are great for clients with oily or combination skin, and may be combined with an antimicrobial agent for acne-prone skin.
  • Cleansing Lotion: water-based emulsion for normal or combination skin. "Milky" lotion cleansers are great for dry skin, they do not strip oil or disturb pH.
  • Cleansing Cream: water in oil emulsion primarily for dissolving makeup and dirt. Great for very dry and mature skin or removing very heavy makeup. Cleansing creams should be rinsed or cleansed from the skin to prevent residue.
  • Makeup Remover: generally oil-based, meant for removing eye makeup or heavy makeup. (pg. 333)

Toners

Toners

There are different types of toners, all varying in alcohol content.

  • Fresheners: lowest alcohol content, restore skin's natural pH, for dry, mature, or sensitive skin.
  • Toners: higher alcohol content, tone and tighten, normal and combination skin.
  • Astringents: highest alcohol content, remove excess oil, for oily and acne-prone skin.

Toners are hydrating, can reset the pH of skin, prepare the skin for product absorption, and have different effects on skin depending on ingredients. (pg. 334)

Exfoliants

Exfoliants

Whether mechanical or chemical, exfoliation has many benefits:

  • Skin texture is smoother and softer
  • Follicle openings are cleaner
  • Deep pore cleansing and extractions are easier
  • Cell turnover rate is increased
  • Skin's ability to retain moisture is improved
  • Product penetration is improved, and delivery of ingredients is more effective
  • Blood flow and circulation are stimulated
  • Makeup application is smoother
  • Removing dead skin buildup that can make skin appear yellow or gray and lifeless. (pg. 335)

Mechanical Exfoliants

Mechanical

Mechanical exfoliation is a method of physically rubbing dead skin cells off of the skin. This can be achieved using granular scrubs, or treatments that use a brushing machine, or microdermabrasion for a stronger exfoliation

Granular scrubs are usually used after cleansing from one to two times per week and are rinsed with water. Frequency of exfoliation depends on skin type and conditions. (pg. 335)

Chemical Exfoliants

In chemical exfoliation, dead skin cells and the intercellular matrix, or "glue" that holds them together (desmosomes), are dissolved by chemical agents such as AHAs and BHAs.

Enzyme exfoliation may be a better option if your client is a retinoid user or has sensitive skin (many new acne clients fall into this category), because enzymes only digest proteins on the surface of the epidermis.

Chemical

Masks

Masks have many benefits:

  • Tighten and tone skin
  • Draw impurities out of the pores
  • Clear up blemishes
  • Hydrate
  • Nourish
  • Calm and soothe
  • Rejuvenate
  • Brighten complexion (pg. 337)

Masks

Types of Masks

Mask ingredients include herbs and vitamins combined in clay, seaweed, or hydrating bases. They come in powder form or premixed, and can be organized into 2 categories: setting and nonsetting.

Types of Masks

Setting masks harden on the skin, providing a complete barrier. They utilize ingredients such as clay, alginate, paraffin wax, and gypsum. (pg. 338)

Nonsetting masks stay moist and are more hydrating as they contain oils, emollients, and humectants. AKA cream masks or gel masks, these masks are great for dry, dehydrated, sensitive, couperose and aging skin.

Setting Masks

  • Clay Masks: Clay masks draw impurities to the surface of the skin as the mask dries and tightens. These masks are great for oily skin, congested pores, and, when combined with sulfur, highly beneficial for acne. They are applied with a brush, left to set for 10 minutes, moistened and removed.
  • Alginate Masks: often seaweed based, they come in powder form and are mixed with water and left to dry to a rubberized texture. They form a complete seal on the skin, so serums and creams are applied underneath to be absorbed by the skin.
  • Modelage Masks: AKA thermal masks, contain gypsum, a plaster-like ingredient. It is mixed with water, applied immediately at about 1/4 inch thick, and left to harden. While the mask sits it heats to about 105 degrees, then gradually cools. It sits on the skin for about 20 min.
  • Paraffin Wax Masks: used to warm the skin and promote penetration of ingredients. Paraffin wax masks have a plumping and softening effect on the skin. They are applied on top of a cream or serum, as paraffin itself has no treatment properties. (pg. 339)

Serums and Ampoules

Serums and ampoules are essentially the same type of product, specialized concentrated ingredients in a water or oil base to be applied underneath moisturizer, mask, or massage cream to target specific conditions. Ampoules are pre-measured serums.

Serums, Eyes, Lips

Eyes and Lips

Lip treatments include moisturizing balms and products. Some contain plumpers, exfoliants, or healing ingredients. There are also lip scrubs which exfoliate, plump, and brighten the lips.

Products for the eyes are usually thicker, more concentrated, and include ingredients for firming and reducing lines.

Eye creams also:

  • Protect thin, delicate tissue
  • Firm
  • Reduce lines
  • Decrease puffiness

Eyes & Lips

Moisturizers and Hydrators

Moisturizers and hydrators are meant to be used twice a day after cleansing to protect and nourish the skin. Moisturizers retain water, hydrators attract water. (pg. 341)

Moisturizers and Hydrators

Benefits:

  • Protect skin from the elements
  • Nourish skin through ingredients
  • Balance oil-water content of the skin
  • Treating various skin conditions such as redness, aging, or dryness

Types of Moisturizers

"Moisturizer" is a good general term to use with clients.

  • Oil-based moisturizers contain emollients and are heavier, occlusive, and good for clients with dry skin.
  • Water-based moisturizers are lighter, more easily absorbed into the skin, and are great for oily or combination skin types.
  • Treatment creams: designed to moisturize and condition the skin, especially during sleep.
  • Massage creams: Have a variety of bases and ingredients, designed to provide slip for massage and not be absorbed into the skin quickly.

Types

Choosing a Line

Choosing a Product Line

  • Are the ingredients high quality and beneficial?
  • Are the products versatile and effective for all skin types?
  • Are the wholesale cost and the retail pricing affordable?
  • Is the product name recognizable and reputable?
  • How are the products packaged?
  • What fragrances are used?
  • What can clients in your area afford?
  • What support can you anticipate from the company or supplier?
  • What educational opportunities and training are provided by the supplier?

(Pg. 345)

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