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Cosmetics: articles intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled, or otherwise applied to the human body or any part thereof for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering appearance.
Drugs: products intended to affect the structures and/or functions of the body of humans or other animals.
Estheticians focus on improving the skin's cosmetic appearance. (pg. 307)
Functional ingredients: allow product to spread, give body and texture, give a specific form such as lotion, cream, or gel
Performance ingredients: cause actual changes in the appearance of the skin.
Water is the most commonly used cosmetic ingredient. Products that do not contain water are called anhydrous. (pg. 308)
Emollients are "fatty" materials (derived from oils or fats) used to lubricate and moisturize the skin.
Emollients function as vehicles to help place, spread, and keep substances on the skin; they also function as performance ingredients by trapping water and preventing TEWL. (pg. 309)
Oils vary in density, fat content, heaviness, and comedogenecy.
Oils from the Earth: Offer excellent protection against dehydration, prevent irritant skin contact, and do not react with other chemicals involved in skin's function. They do not harbor bacteria, and can be blended with water to form a cream, lotion, or fluid. Ex: mineral oil, petrolatum (pg 309)
Oils from plants: Most plant oils are used for emollient properties, ex: jojoba, safflower, canola, sunflower.
Others are used for fragrance, ex: aromatherapy, essential oils (pg. 310)
Defined as: tendency of any topical substance to cause or to worsen a buildup of dead cells in the follicle, leading to the development of a comedo. (pg. 311)
Surfactants reduce the surface tension between the skin and the product, and increase spreadability of cosmetic products. Detergents and emulsifiers are surfactants.
Detergents are the main type of surfactant used in skin-cleansing products. They cause cleansers to foam. Soaps may be combined with detergents to make cleansers. Ex: sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate, ammonium lauryl sulfate.
Emulsifiers cause oils and water to mix, forming an emulsion. Ex: polysorbate, potassium cetyl sulfate (pg. 312)
Gellants and Thickeners: agents that are used to give a product a gel-like consistency. Ex: carbomers
Fragrances: can come from plant, animal, or synthetic sources. Ex: essential oils
Preservatives: prevent bacteria and other microorganisms from living in a product. Ex: parabens, quaternium 15, urea
pH Adjustors: acids or alkalis used to change or stabilize the pH of a product. Ex: sodium hydroxide, citric acid
Solvents: substances that dissolve other ingredients. Ex: water, alcohol
Botanicals: ingredients derived from plants
Healing Agents: performance ingredients that heal the skin. Ex: chamomile, licorice, azulene, aloe (pg. 314)
Colorants are vegetable, pigment, or mineral dyes that give product color.
Certified colors: synthetic, inorganic, aka: metal salts.
Noncertified colors: organic compounds from animal or plant extracts, can also be natural mineral pigments. These are less irritating and are better suited for cosmetic application around the eyes.
Lakes: insoluble pigments made by combining a dye with an inorgainc material. Commonly found in colorful cosmetics
Exempt colors: those that do not require certification. Used in coverage makeup products. Ex: zinc oxide, iron oxide, carmine, mica, ultramarine colors. (pg 314)
Hydrators, humectants, and hydrophilic agents are all ingredients that attract water to the skin's surface. Most moisturizing products are combinations of emollients and humectants.
Lipids are used to improve hydration, plumpness, and smoothness of the skin, and reduce sensitivity by improving barrier function. (pg. 315)
Exfoliation is the removal of dead corneum cells on the epidermis.
Exfoliants are mechanical (manual) and chemical ingredients that exfoliate the skin.
Mechanical exfoliants include jojoba beads, ground nuts, sugar, and polyethylene.
Chemical exfoliants include AHAs, BHAs, and Enzymes.
Glycolic Acid Peel Series
Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and Beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) are naturally occurring mild acids used as chemical exfoliants.
AHAs: loosen the bond between cells in the epidermis, accelerating the cell turnover rate. AHAs help with pigmentation, wrinkles, texture, and congestion. Ex: glycolic, lactic, malic, citric, tartaric
BHAs: dissolve sebum in the pores and soften keratin, helping to relieve congestion. Ex: salicylic acid, white willow bark (pg. 315)
Salicylic Acid Peel Series
NOTE: Clients with an aspirin allergy cannot use Salicylic acid
Enzymes are keratolytic, meaning they dissolve keratin proteins on the surface of the skin to make it softer, smoother, and help maintain hydration in the epidermis.
Enzymatic exfoliation is considered a more passive means of exfoliation, and most enzyme exfoliants have anti-imflammatory properties. Ex: papain, bromelain, pancreatin (pg. 315)
4% Hydroquinone
Ingredients used in the bleaching or lightening of the skin. They work by bleaching the upper layers of the skin, or by preventing melanocytes from producing melanin. These ingredients are also called Tyrosinase inhibitors. Ex: kojic acid, arbutin, vitamin C, licorice root, green tea extract, AHAs and BHAs. (pg. 316)
Chemical systems that deliver ingredients to specific areas of the epidermis.
Microchanneling with Stem Cells
High tech ingredients are designed to improve metabolic processes, reducing the signs of aging.
Chains of amino acids used to produce changes in the skin's appearance. They are shown to improve tissue repair, collagen production, and elastin production. Often used with hydrators and antioxidants. Ex: palmitoyl pentapeptide-3, palmitoyl oligopeptide
Glycoproteins: Enhance immune response and cellular metabolism, boosting oxygen intake and strengthening the skin's defense. Especially beneficial to skin that appears unhealthy, dull from smoking, has diffused redness or environmental damage. (pg. 317)
1% Retinol after 1 month
Derived from Vitamin A, Retinol stimulates cell repair and helps to normalize skin cells by generating new cells. It is an antioxidant with exfoliating properties. Retinoic acid (Retin-A, Tretinoin, Renova, Tazorac) is keratolytic, and used for problems such as acne, sun damage, and wrinkles. (pg. 318)
*Anyone using retinoids should be under the care of a physician and should not receive hair removal or laser treatments unless approved by the doctor. *
Tretinoin treatment
Antioxidants are vitamins, amino acids, and other natural substances that, when applied topically, neutralize free radicals in the skin. They are also added to products as a preservative. They can help prevent wrinkles, promote skin healing, and reduce the formation of scar tissue (presurgical and postsurgical). (pg. 318)
Free radicals are aggressive, unstable, oxygen-containing molecules with an unpaired electron. They have lost an electron and will steal electrons from other stable molecules, damaging them, and creating more free radicals. One free radical can damage millions of other compounds. They cause damage to cell membranes, DNA and RNA, and contribute to the hardening of elastin and collagen.
There are 2 types of active sunscreen ingredients: chemical (organic) and physical (inorganic).
SPF (Sun Protection Factor): the ability of a product to delay sun-induced erythema (sunburn). SPF is based on UVB protection, not UVA. (pg. 319)
Physical
Chemical
Natural vs. Synthetic: Natural products can have powerful skin benefits, but some of the most effective ingredients are synthetically produced.
Organic Ingredients: intended to be natural products grown without the use of pesticides or chemicals. However, there is no organic labeling standard for cosmetics in the United States at this time.
The FDA does not require approval of cosmetics before their manufacture and sale, but they do require them to be safe, labeled correctly, and claims be proven. Ingredients must be labeled in descending order of predominance. (pg. 322)
Foods and Their Benefits
Herbs and Plants
An ancient healing practice using essential oils and aromas from plants to treat the body, mind, and spirit. Essential oils can affect the brain and emotions. Synthetically produced oils do not have therapeutic value that natural oils retain through the extraction. Aromatherapy oils can moisturize, stimulate, cleanse, soothe, and nourish. (pg. 331)
Topical ingredients for mature skin need to have high-tech delivery systems, such as liposomes, to deliver ingredients effectively into the skin. One effective formula for mature skin is a combination of alpha lipoic acid, vitamin C ester, DMAE, and glycolic acid. Other ingredients include:
The most important step in recommending and applying product is determining which ingredients are best for your client's skin, all skin is unique. Using the correct ingredients is essential for healthy skin. Most products can be grouped into these main categories:
Most cleansers are meant to be used twice per day as the first step in your skin care routine. All cleansers should leave the skin pH-balanced, and soap is not usually a recommended ingredient because it is alkaline, causing dryness. There are many different types of cleansers, and they all have several benefits:
There are different types of toners, all varying in alcohol content.
Toners are hydrating, can reset the pH of skin, prepare the skin for product absorption, and have different effects on skin depending on ingredients. (pg. 334)
Whether mechanical or chemical, exfoliation has many benefits:
Mechanical exfoliation is a method of physically rubbing dead skin cells off of the skin. This can be achieved using granular scrubs, or treatments that use a brushing machine, or microdermabrasion for a stronger exfoliation
Granular scrubs are usually used after cleansing from one to two times per week and are rinsed with water. Frequency of exfoliation depends on skin type and conditions. (pg. 335)
In chemical exfoliation, dead skin cells and the intercellular matrix, or "glue" that holds them together (desmosomes), are dissolved by chemical agents such as AHAs and BHAs.
Enzyme exfoliation may be a better option if your client is a retinoid user or has sensitive skin (many new acne clients fall into this category), because enzymes only digest proteins on the surface of the epidermis.
Masks have many benefits:
Mask ingredients include herbs and vitamins combined in clay, seaweed, or hydrating bases. They come in powder form or premixed, and can be organized into 2 categories: setting and nonsetting.
Setting masks harden on the skin, providing a complete barrier. They utilize ingredients such as clay, alginate, paraffin wax, and gypsum. (pg. 338)
Nonsetting masks stay moist and are more hydrating as they contain oils, emollients, and humectants. AKA cream masks or gel masks, these masks are great for dry, dehydrated, sensitive, couperose and aging skin.
Serums and ampoules are essentially the same type of product, specialized concentrated ingredients in a water or oil base to be applied underneath moisturizer, mask, or massage cream to target specific conditions. Ampoules are pre-measured serums.
Lip treatments include moisturizing balms and products. Some contain plumpers, exfoliants, or healing ingredients. There are also lip scrubs which exfoliate, plump, and brighten the lips.
Products for the eyes are usually thicker, more concentrated, and include ingredients for firming and reducing lines.
Eye creams also:
Moisturizers and hydrators are meant to be used twice a day after cleansing to protect and nourish the skin. Moisturizers retain water, hydrators attract water. (pg. 341)
Benefits:
"Moisturizer" is a good general term to use with clients.
(Pg. 345)