Permanent Waving !
Acid Wave Vs. Alkaline Waves
The purpose of neutralizer in Permanent wave
- Acid waves usually have a pH rating between 4.5 and 7.0.
- It also requires heat to speed up the processing stage.
- Glyceryl monothioglycolate is the main ingredient in a acid perm.
- Hair has a pH of about 5.0, acid waves are less damaging to the hair, require the heat of a dryer usually and typically do not produce as firm a curl as an alkaline wave.
- Made using ammonium thioglycolate as an alkaline ingredient.
- Between 9.0 and 9.6 on the pH scale.
- Also known as "cold waves" since they dont require any extra heat source to process.
- Work best on hair that is coarse, thick, or resistant to processing as well as "normal" virgin hair as they are much stronger when compared to acid waves.
Neutralizers in a permanent wave process that reunite sulfur into their new curl shaped position. If the neutralizers are not correctly applied, the perm will be unusable and the client will not be satisfied.
The most common neutralizers are Hydrogen peroxide in 5 or 10 volume strenght (near 1.5-3%) and the chemical process that removes the hydrogen atoms and reforms the disulfide bonds called "Oxidaton"
Neutralization rebuilds the disulfide bonds by taking away the hydrogen and adding the permanent waving solution. Every oxygen bond connect with two hydrogen atoms to recreate a disulfide bond, creating a water molecule. The bonds are later re formed into their normal shape but different pairs.
The Structure and the Process of the hair shaft.
Chemical actions that take place during Permanent Waving
- Cuticle ; the cuticle is the outter most layer of the hair shaft. It's a shingle like layer of overlapping cells, some 5 to 12 deep. The cuticle does it's job of providing & protecting the cortex and the medulla. The purpose is to be a shield from the rest of the hair shaft.
- Cortex ; is the thickest hair layer. It's located between the cuticle and the medulla. All chemical changes take place here. The purpose is it contains most of the hair pigment, giving the hair it's color. The pigment in the cortex is melanin.
- Medulla ; Not everybody has a medulla. Such as blondes , some red heads or people with gray or white hair. The medulla is the innermost layer of the hair shaft, it's nearly invisible layer of the hair. The medulla is very small (generally 1/3 inch)