Module 1

Human Evolution and Prehistoric Dress

Dress Motivations

Body Art & Body Modification

MODULE 1

The Stone Age

These are bone awls from the Stone Age, most likely used to pierce through rough materials in order to make clothes.

This is a sculpture representing a woman's head. Found in the archeological site, Dolni Vestonice. (Approx. 27,000 to 20,000 B.C)

From the left to the right, are two Magdalenian V harpoons, two Magdalenian VI harpoons, and an Azilian harpoon--all from the Stone Age. As you can see the Magdalenian V harpoons have only single rows of barbs, while the Magdalenian VI harpoons and Azilian harpoon have two rows. (Approx. 15,000 BCE to 7,000 BCE)

This is a sculpture representing a woman

from the Stone Age. Since it was a time when humans were considered to be quite primitive, the woman in the sculpture probably isn't wearing any clothing. Found in the archeological site, Dolni Vestonice. (Approx. 27,000 to 20,000 B.C)

Bordes, Francois. The Old Stone Age. New York: McGraw-Hill, 1968. Print.

These are a collection of handaxes used in the Micoquien industry. (Approx. 130,000 to 70,000 BCE)

It looks like this female statue has the head of a bull hanging from her waist.

This is a broken spear from the Stone Age which was most likely used as a hunting spear.

These are some early Leptolithic female statuettes (40,000-20,000 years ago). As you can see, the torso parts of the statuettes are quite simple, but from the waist down you notice a very elaborate design, as if they were wearing some kind of cloth or they had some adornment they wore around the waist.

Bordes, Francois. The Old Stone Age. New York: McGraw-Hill, 1968. Print.

Pictures of the stones figures - Breuil, Henri, and Raymond Lantier. The Men of the Old Stone Age: (Palaeolithic and Mesolithic) / Henri Breuil and Raymond Lantier. Transl. (aus D. Franz.) by B. B. Rafter. London: Harrap, 1965. Print.

Bordes, Francois. The Old Stone Age. New York: McGraw-Hill, 1968. Print.

Otzi the Iceman

Types of Dress

The found remains of Otzi the Ice man. (September 19, 1991)

Fowler, Brenda. Iceman: Uncovering the Life and times of a Prehistoric Man Found in an Alpine Glacier. New York: Random House, 2000. Print.

Roommate, Maya, modeling t-shaped garment and bifurcated garment, Esopus 223. Personal photograph by author. 2012. JPEG file.

Self modeling of coat and bifurcated garment, Esopus 223. Personal photograph by author. 2012. JPEG file.

Coat

T-shaped

In this picture, the Ice man's torso is covered by some kind of a cloth, probably made from the same animal fur as the leggings. He is also wearing some kind of cloth shoes that he has sewn together, most likely with a bone awl.

Draped (Scarf)

In this picture, my roommate, Maya, is wearing a T-shirt and a pair of jeans.

In this picture, I am wearing a woman's trench coat, a scarf, and a pair of jeans.

Bifurcated (Jeans)

Fowler, Brenda. Iceman: Uncovering the Life and times of a Prehistoric Man Found in an Alpine Glacier. New York: Random House, 2000. Print.

Tools that were found along with the body.

Poncho

In this picture, the Ice man is fully clothed. He has draped a cape over himself, which seems to be made out of grass and he also wears a hat that is likely to be made out of grass as well.

Draped (Pashmina)

This is a drawn picture depicting what the Ice man was wearing. In this picture, he is wearing a belt, which is holding up his loincloth. It can also be see that he is wearing leggings, which seem to be made out of patches of animal fur. The leggings are held up by straps attached to the belt.

Coat

In this picture, I am wearing a winter snow jacket, a pashmina, and a pair of jeans.

Fowler, Brenda. Iceman: Uncovering the Life and times of a Prehistoric Man Found in an Alpine Glacier. New York: Random House, 2000. Print.

Bifurcated (Jeans)

I couldn't find anyone who owned a poncho, so I got these pictures from Vogue magazine. On the left, is a knitted poncho by Chloé and on the right, is a blanket cape poncho by Boy. by Band of Outsiders.

Fowler, Brenda. Iceman: Uncovering the Life and times of a Prehistoric Man Found in an Alpine Glacier. New York: Random House, 2000. Print.

Poncho

Self modeling of coat and bifurcated garment, Esopus 223. Personal photograph by author. 2012. JPEG file.

Adams, Esther. "The Verdict Is In: Extra-Long Ponchos - Vogue Daily - Vogue." Vogue Fashion, Features, and More on Vogue.com. N.p., n.d. Web. 21 Sept. 2012. <http://www.vogue.com/vogue-daily/article/the-verdict-is-in-extra-long-ponchos/#1>.

Magico-Religious or Devotional

Status or Hierarchy

Roces, Mina, and Louise P. Edwards. The Politics of Dress in Asia and the Americas. Brighton [England: Sussex Academic, 2007. Print.

Modesty

Below, is a photo of a contemporary Muslim wedding. You can see that even during occasions such as weddings, people of the Islamic religion must keep themselves fully covered at all times. However, both the bride and the groom have more fashionable costumes than the guests. The bride and groom also correspond in color and that may also me a tradition within a Muslim wedding.

Below is a photo of a few working class maids and servants of the Countess of Warwick in their uniforms (1898). The types and colors of uniforms differentiates each workers position in the household. The primary motivation of the uniform would then be to indicate each persons position in their work.

This is an outdoor costume from Tunis. The primary motivation of the costume is to exemplify modesty of a woman. As you can see, the woman is draped in layers and layers of clothes and cloth. This is because the nation of Tunisia, of which Tunis is the capital, is an Islamic nation. Being an Islamic nation, it would be normal to show this kind of modesty in costume.

Above is a painting of "The Royal Family" (1899) in Thailand by Odoardo Gelli. As you can see, almost all the men are wearing uniforms as a sign of their rank most likely in the military. The one woman is wearing what was considered back then, a very fashionable and expensive dress. The primary motivations of these clothes would be to show their rank not only in the military, but in society as well. The colors white, red, and royal blue means that they must hold pretty high positions in the military.

Crane, Diana. Fashion and Its Social Agendas: Class, Gender, and Identity in Clothing. Chicago: University of Chicago, 2000. Print.

Roces, Mina, and Louise P. Edwards. The Politics of Dress in Asia and the Americas. Brighton [England: Sussex Academic, 2007. Print.

Flugel, J. C. The Psychology of Clothes,. London: Hogarth, and the Institute of Psycho-analysis, 1950. Print.

Seduction

Group Identification

Personal Expression

Communicate with Symbols

Best friends, Hyatt Regency Saipan. Personal photograph by author. 2012. JPEG file.

Self photo, Esopus 223. Personal photograph by author. 2012. JPEG file.

I would say the primary motivation of these two pictures is to show that the artist can be very sexy and seductive, contrary to her innocent looking face. In the picture, the artist (Park Bom), is wearing a little black dress, which is considered already to be very sexy. She also is wearing fishnet stockings, which gives her more sex appeal and to top it off, a pair of bunny ears, which according to society, gives off a very 'naughty girl' vibe.

My brother and I at 2010 World Exposition, Shanghai. Personal photograph by author. 2010. JPEG file.

In the picture below, the artist's (Park Bom) primary motivation is to show that she feels lonely, but she does this in a very seductive manner showing off her legs while only wearing a man's button down dress shirt.

Best friends at graduation, GCA Auditorium. Personal photograph by author. 2012. JPEG file.

Below, is a photo of my graduating class in our class shirts. The primary motivation of wearing our class shirts is to show unity within the class and also to distinguish ourselves from the other classes, which in other words means group identification. The color of purple was chosen because the class voted on wanting Justin Bieber purple...this was when everyone was crazed over the artist.

In this picture, is the Korean girl group, 2NE1. They are a very different girl group, they are fierce and sexy. That is then their primary motivation for their outfits: different, fierce, and sexy. The two girls of the left show more of a fierce-ness while the two girls on the right show more of a seductive look.

"Artists: 2NE1." YG Entertainment. YG Entertainment, n.d. Web. 20 Sept. 2012. <http://www.ygfamily.com/artist/Gallery.asp?Page=1&LANGDIV=K&ATYPE=2&ARTIDX=4&n2PageSize=15&SchKey1=>.

In the picture, is my younger brother, Zen. He is wearing a striped Ralph Lauren button down dress shirt, a pair of black slacks, a Cartier belt, and a pair of aviators. His primary motivation was to showcase himself at his 16th birthday as a classy, well dressed young man. His secondary motivation was to just dress nice for lunch at the Hyatt Regency.

Above is a photo of myself and my three closest friends. We are all wearing white shirts/blouses and jeans because we wanted to match while we took our small group photos. We chose the color white because white is a very fresh and pure color.

"Artists: 2NE1." YG Entertainment. YG Entertainment, n.d. Web. 20 Sept. 2012. <http://www.ygfamily.com/artist/Gallery.asp?Page=6&LANGDIV=K&ATYPE=2&ARTIDX=4&n2PageSize=15&SchKey1=>.

"Artists: 2NE1." YG Entertainment. YG Entertainment, n.d. Web. 20 Sept. 2012. <http://www.ygfamily.com/artist/Gallery.asp?Page=1&LANGDIV=K&ATYPE=2&ARTIDX=4&n2PageSize=15&SchKey1=>.

"Artists: 2NE1." YG Entertainment. YG Entertainment, n.d. Web. 20 Sept. 2012. <http://www.ygfamily.com/artist/Gallery.asp?Page=6&LANGDIV=K&ATYPE=2&ARTIDX=4&n2PageSize=15&SchKey1=>.

Above is a self picture. As you can see, the jacket I am wearing has a logo on it, it is the Puma logo. My primary motivation in wearing this jacket, however, wasn't to communicate that I liked the brand Puma. That was my second motivation. My primary motivation of wearing this jacket was because it was cold outside that day. My second motivation of wearing it was because I like the jacket and Puma.

Above is a photo of brother and I. He is wearing a New York Yankees hat. His primary motivation for wearing that hat wasn't because he needed it to protect him from the sun, but it was to show that he was basically a Yankees fan and he communicated that to others because of the symbol for New York Yankees (NY) on his hat.

My brother, Hyatt Regency Saipan. Personal photograph by author. 2012. JPEG file.

In this picture, the artist (Park Bom) is wearing a shiny, black leather outfit. On her shirt, she has pointed studs, as well on the bracelets she is wearing. In this picture, she is making promotions for her group's new song, "I am the Best." The primary motivation of this look is to show that she is a fearless bad-ass and that she is indeed the best.

Above is a photo of my friends and I at our graduation. Our graduation gowns and caps symbolizes that we are now graduates of high school. The lays and ropes around our necks symbolizes everyone's pride and hard work. The primary motivation for our caps and gowns is to show that we are graduates.

Class of 2012, GCA Auditorium. Personal photograph by author. 2012. JPEG file.

"Artists: 2NE1." YG Entertainment. YG Entertainment, n.d. Web. 20 Sept. 2012. <http://www.ygfamily.com/artist/Gallery.asp?Page=2&LANGDIV=K&ATYPE=2&ARTIDX=4&n2PageSize=15&SchKey1=>.

Arouse Emotion

Utility

Protection

"Artists: 2NE1." YG Entertainment. YG Entertainment, n.d. Web. 20 Sept. 2012. <http://www.ygfamily.com/artist/Gallery.asp?Page=3&LANGDIV=K&ATYPE=2&ARTIDX=4&n2PageSize=15&SchKey1=>.

Below is a picture of me wearing a sweater jacket and then a rain coat. The primary motivation for these clothes was for protection against the rain. This I suppose would be more for a survival rather than seduction. My second motivation was to keep me warm while I was up in the Great Wall.

Below is a picture of my classmates and my teacher. The man in the middle--my teacher--is using a cellphone storage unit and around his neck is a camera storage unit. The primary motivations for these units would be for utility so he can free up his hands. Also, he is carrying a bag, which is used for utility as well.

"Artists: G-Dragon." YG Entertainment. YG Entertainment, n.d. Web. 20 Sept. 2012. <http://www.ygfamily.com/artist/Gallery.asp?Page=2&LANGDIV=K&ATYPE=2&ARTIDX=10&n2PageSize=15&SchKey1=>.

Teacher and classmates, Tinian Dynasty Hotel. Personal photograph by author. 2012. JPEG file.

Me at the Great Wall of China, Beijing. Personal photograph by author. 2008. JPEG file.

Above is a picture of G-Dragon, a Korean singer. The primary motivation of his outfit and looks is to probably arouse the emotion of fear and intimidation. He's wearing mostly black and a lot of chains around his neck and on his pants. This gives a sense of fear and darkness.

Above is a picture of CL from the girl group 2NE1. She is wearing a very unique jacket with a full black bodysuit. She is the leader of the group and so the primary motivation of her outfit is most likely to arouse the emotion of intimidation and that she is the boss.

BODY ART

"Arts: Opera and Theater." Cultural China. Foreign Languages Press, n.d. Web. 20 Sept. 2012. <http://arts.cultural-china.com/en/87Arts6676.html>.

"Artists: 2NE1." YG Entertainment. YG Entertainment, n.d. Web. 20 Sept. 2012. <http://www.ygfamily.com/artist/Gallery.asp?Page=3&LANGDIV=K&ATYPE=2&ARTIDX=4&n2PageSize=15&SchKey1=>.

To the right is Park Bom from 2NE1. Her hair is dyed red and her eye makeup is very dark. The red symbolizes fire because at the time, she was promoting the song, "Fire." The dark makeup shows her edge.

On the left side, are two pictures depicting one of the many drawn on faces in the Chinese Opera. These faces are known as the clown faces. They use orange paint because orange is understood to be an odd and funny color. They then subtly use black paint to indicate where the sense organs are. The primary motivation of this particular opera face would be to arouse emotion.

"Arts: Opera and Theater." Cultural China. Foreign Languages Press, n.d. Web. 20 Sept. 2012. <http://arts.cultural-china.com/en/87Arts6676.html>.

To the left, is a picture of me and my henna tattoo. Although I have no real cultural or historical attachment to this particular tattoo, it seems to look like a tribal sign of some sort. My primary motivation for choosing this design was because it looked very tribal and I liked that.

Me with new henna tattoo, Garapan. Personal photograph by author. 2010. JPEG file.

BODY MODIFICATION

Flugel, J. C. The Psychology of Clothes,. London: Hogarth, and the Institute of Psycho-analysis, 1950. Print.

Wang, Ping. Aching for Beauty: Footbinding in China. Minneapolis: University of Minnesota, 2000. Print.

Below are two girls with brass coils around their necks. This is basically a reconstruction of the body. The primary motivation of this act is to arouse emotion and to show status and hierarchy within their villages.

To the right side are pictures of Chinese foot binding. In ancient China, during the time of the dynasties, it was said that big feet were unattractive, so many Chinese women bound their feet so make them as tiny as possible. In other words, the reconstructed their feet. The primary motivation was seduction and to arouse emotion--they wanted to be attractive.

Above is an African girl with obvious signs of scarification. These are said to be ornamental scars and since they are ornamental, the motivation is most likely to be personal expression or to arouse emotion.

Flugel, J. C. The Psychology of Clothes,. London: Hogarth, and the Institute of Psycho-analysis, 1950. Print.

The cloth shoe used for the foot binding

Wang, Ping. Aching for Beauty: Footbinding in China. Minneapolis: University of Minnesota, 2000. Print.

To the left is a woman of the Derung/Dulong ethnic group of China. It is said that tattooing the faces of women and girls of the Dulong group dated back to the Ming dynasty. They were convinced that if they had tattoos on their faces, it would make them ugly and less likely to get raped when their villages were raided. It has now become a rite of passage and all twelve to thirteen year old girls must have their face tattooed. I would say the primary motivation was protection, but now is devotional.

A young girl who is already practicing foot binding.

"A History of Chinese Tattoos and Chinese Tattooing Traditions - China culture." Traditions - China culture. N.p., n.d. Web. 21 Sept. 2012. <http://traditions.cultural-china.com/en/14Traditions9157.html>.

Wang, Ping. Aching for Beauty: Footbinding in China. Minneapolis: University of Minnesota, 2000. Print.