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テキスト

Richard Wagner's

The Ring Cycle

Series of four operas

Story based on the characters from the epic poem, "The Nibelungenlied"

The fall of Rome

"the barbarians"

Teutons

Scandinavian & Germanic origin

- Horned helmets

- primitive clothing

- short tunic made from leather then later in wool or linen

- baggy trousers

- represented in Wagner's The Ring Cycle

Goths

- "fitted" garments

- Tunics and trousers

- Women wore full gathered skirts tied at waist

- wool was woven in stripes and checks

The Huns

Verdi's Attila

The Metropolitan Opera

Mongolian origin

- savage reputation

- central asian style trousers soft leather boots

- felt/leather belted coats fur trim

- cloaks (field mice skins?)

- fur trim conical hats

Designed by Miuccia Prada

Women

Costume History:

Middle Ages (Medieval)

8th & 9th Century

- Introduction of the "Bliaut"/two piece dress

- low waist

- sometimes wide girdle

- Sleeves excessively wide and long

- Introduction of the "Wimple"

- "Coif" worn by men & women

- "Barbette" and "Crespine"

- bulkiness of ears became fashionable

Men:

- tight sleeved under tunic

- wide sleeved outer tunic

- mantle fastened on shoulder or chest

- Breeches

- Hose & leg bands

- Drawers

The Dark Ages and the Middle Ages

Women:

- floor length under dress with fitted sleeves

- shorter outer tunic/"Kirtle" with wide three-quarter length sleeves and waist cord

- bright colours

- head scarf

Early christian beliefs dictated that the whole body was covered

5th-15th Century

12th and 13th Century

Men

11th Century

Mens clothes became more fitted

- tunics got shorter

- often had embroidery around neck line

- shoes with slight point

- Byzantine (Eastern) influence

- Increase volume of fabric used

- Mid 12th century the over tunic was redesigned, "Bliaut"- blouse and skirt piece joined at waist

- Bands or embroidery around wrist, neck and hemline

- decoration was more elaborate and more luxury fabrics used

- "Tabard" developed - sewn down sides and more fitted

- Technique called "Dagging"

- Hoods/"cucullus" became fashionable

- Head wear included round cap, beret, pointed hat, the "Coif", the hood

Crusades 11th 12th 13th century

Womens silouette changed

- fitted upper section - laced up back or up sides

- sleeves of the outer garment became more of a feature

- neck lowered

- crown and veil

- Fur trimmed mantle

- the turban style of head wear spread over from Persia

A series of religious military campaigns

- Crusades brought great advances in chain-mail and plated armour

- Fabric surcoats, "Cyclas"/ "tabards" worn over chain-mail to keep off the direct rays of the sun and to display the arms of the sovereign

- Boost in trade

*Crusaders returned with knowledge materials and actual garments themselves from the Oriental and Arab worlds

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