50's
60's
70's
80's
90's
Rock Music + Fashion
00's
- 2 elements-identifying a subculture. We can add slang language and attitude.
- By choosing a music genre and fashion style, one group can oppose to major-mainstream trends. (Subculture VS Mainstream Culture = Counterculture)
- Usually, when ones subculture choices become amenable to broad acceptance and hence a part of the mainstream culture, the subculture members tend to find new characteristics that separates them from the major culture.
- From Rock ‘n’ Roll to Indie Rock we find different subcultures with common features: music and fashion choices-many trends have become part of the mainstream cultures through the years.
00‘s-Indie Rock Music
90’s Grunge Rock Music+Fashion
- 90’s: fall of communism, american invasion in Iraq, massive use of computers, Internet, free market and dissolution of Yugoslavia.
- Grunge Rock incorporates punk and heavy metal elements and it’s characterized by distorted electric guitar sounds with noise and sound effe. Slower tempo, complicated orchestration, dynamism and absence of pricy sets or light effe.
- Paying no attention to sartorial choices. Fashion is influenced by previous decades- Plain (white) t-shirts, jeans, denim jackets, old shoes (converse), cargo pants, logo fitness wear (Nike, Adidas etc), plaid shirts.
Nirvana Nevermind, Bleach , In Utero
Pearl Jam Ten , Vitalogy , Riot Act , Backspacer
- Fashion Icons Curt Cobain Pop music icons
- Indie rock: an alternative rock’s genre with punk, psychedelia, rock and country music elements.
- The term comes from the word “independent” and it’s used to describe small and low budgeted bands embracing the DIY philosophy.
- With the major changes in the music industry and the Internet rise in 00’s, Indie rock enjoyed commercial success.
- Indie rock scene has a larger number of female artists compared to other music genres, may be because of the feminist movement during this period.
- 00’s fashion trends can be characterized as a mixture of previous decades. Anyone can create his own personal style and all combinations are now accepted by the major culture.
- Music Icons
Oasis Definitely maybe, Be here now, Dig out your soul
The Libertines Up the bracket, The Libertines
Arctic Monkeys Fake tales of San Fransisco, When the sun goes down, Teddy Picker
80’s-New Wave Music+Fashion
- Late 70’s-parallel with punk movement. New Wave has punk elements and uses synthesizers to a large extend.
- It enjoyed major commercial success, mostly due to its promotion through MTV, which evidently affected the music industry’s trends.
- Music Icons:
The Runaways Queens of Noise, Waitin' for the Night, Flaming Schoolgirls
The Sisters of Mercy First and Last and Always , Floodland , Vision Thing
Depeche Mode Personal Jesus, Precious, World in my eyes
Cure Accuracy, The end of the world, Taking off
Joy Division Peel Sessions, Warsaw, Permanent
- Fashion wise we can demarcate New Romantics to New Wave movement. NR wore make up, they were in tune with the contemporary fashion trends and they had high-volume haircuts (ex. Duran Duran).
Fashion Rocks
Rock music influences in fashion industry
from 50’s-00’s
50’s-Rock’n’Roll music
- 1955-movie: Black Board Jungle soundtrack: "Rock Around the Clock".
- Term: it was used for the first time by the producer Alan Freed, inspired by the Bill Haley song’s lyric “Rock, rock, rock, everybody, roll, roll, roll everybody”
- Time of great racial controversies-Unifying element: all people could dance play and listen to rock ‘n’ roll music.
- Rock ‘n’ Roll was mostly an American trend till the British invasion in 1964.
- TV + Private telephone lines in homes.
- Teenagers become a special group of interest. They can drive and they have the freedom to choose their entertainment.
Michalodimitrakis Nikos
Thanou Alcmene
50’s-Rock’n’Roll Icons
Bill Halley: Shake rattle and roll, Rock and roll forever Fats Domino: I miss you so , This is Fats Little Richard: The king of the gospel singers, The king of rock and roll Chuck Berry: Roll Over Beethoven, School Days, Sweet Little Sixteen Elvis Presley: Help Me Make It Through the Night , Have I Told You Lately that I Love You? , Guitar Man
Elvis Presley
James Dean
Grace Kelly
Marilyn Monroe
Sophia Loren
Elizabeth Taylor
50’s-Rock’n’Roll fashion
- American Teenager of the 50’s.
- Young men: T-shirts, jeans, casual short sleeve shirts, black leather jacket - Wet pompadour hairstyle.(‘rebelious’ subculture)
VS
- Corduroy Pants, Cardigan Sweaters over Shirts (‘mainstream preppie’ culture).
- Young women: Extremely fully skirts-dresses, bobby socks, shirts with pleats, ‘Saddle-oxford’ men’s style shoes, poodle skirts, έντον(subculture) - Ponytails hairstyle.
VS
- Straight high waisted dresses, shirts, poodle skirts, pants with blouses-Curly short hairstyle.(mainstream)
Conclusions
70‘s(’68)-Hippies Rock Music
60’s-(Psychedelic) Rock Music
- Hippies counterculture was a youth movement that erupted in mid-60’s USA.
- The term comes from the english word “hipster” (a person who rejects the major culture and supports freer points of view).
- They’ve formed social groups, strongly opposed to Vietnam War, listened to psychedelic rock, supported the sexual revolution and used drugs (inc. magic mushrooms) in order to explore new and alternative things.
- Hippies’ fashion trend and values had a major influence in culture, including music, television, cinema and arts- Woodstock festival 1969. Observed today in: health food, music festivals etc
- Celebrities’ deaths by drug abuse in early 70’s confirmed the suspicions of the major culture that the hippies movement was deeply related to drugs-Fact that alienated the subculture even more.
- Music Icons
Janis Joplin Cheap Thrills , I Got Dem Ol' Kozmic Blues Again Mama!
Santana Abraxas, Caravanserai, Borboletta
The Beach Boys Surfin' Safari , Little Deuce Coupe ,Wild Honey ,Sunflower
Jimi Hendrix Foxy Lady, Voodoo Child
- Roots: Rhythm and Blues, Rock and Roll, Rockabilly. Contribution: country music.
- Lyrics with direct or indirect reference to drugs.
The youth
- opposes to the Cold War, carefree and consuming attitude of 50’s youth.
- was massively against Vietnam War.
- shows a new and liberated attitude, including the sexual revolution (birth control pills)
- The illegal-rebellious type is booming as well as the massive drug use (mostly LSD and marijuana).
- Music Icons:
Bob Dylan: Subterranean Homesick Blues, Tambourine Man.
The Beatles: Love me Do, A Hard day’s night, Yellow Submarine.
Rolling Stones: Little by little, Route 66, Satisfaction
The Who: My generation, The kids are alright
Velvet Underground: Heroin, Run run run,
60’s/70’s-Hard Rock Music
- Originated in mid-60‘s and it’s influenced by garage rock, blues rock, and psychedelic rock. It prospers during 70‘s.
- Characteristics: Sound distortion, 2 guitarists (rhythm and lead)
- Music Icons:
Led Zeppelin Αll my love, Stairway to heaven, Dancing days
Deep Purple Child in time, Hush, Lazy
AC/DC (1973) Black ice, Are you ready, Sin city
Van Halen (1978 debut album) Atomic punk, Beautiful girls, Eruption
Black Sabbath Paranoid, Born again, Master of reality
60’s-Garage Rock Music
- British Invasion is the term for the dominance of British Rock in USA, Canada, Australia.
- British rock spreads across the world and met many imitators.
- Many tried to create their district music band. Rehearsals and recording are taking place into home garages, without help by major Record Labels.
- Thereby garage rock developed and prospered from 1963 to 1967.
- Music Icons:
The Sonics Cinderella, Dirty Robber, Shot Down
The Castaways the Time, Song
The Monks Blast off, I hate you , Shut up
70‘s-Glam Rock Music-Fashion
Internet articles
Image sources
70's-Punk Rock Music
- Rock Music-Major Influence on Culture, Fashion and Social Attitude. 19/03/2010. We Records. Available at: http://www.werecords.org/rock-music-major-influence-on-culture-fashion-and-social-attitude.htm
- Sutton Dawn. The Influence of Music in the 1950’s and Early 1960’s. eHow. Available at: http://www.ehow.com/info_7856318_influence-music-1950s-early-1960s.html
- (2009). Fashion through Music: Rock. Female First UK. 27/05/2009. Available at: http://www.femalefirst.co.uk/lifestyle-fashion/styletrends/Grease-8687.html
- Sireheti, Joanna. (2008). Music: An Influence to Fashion. Solomon Times. 02/09/2008. Available at: http://www.solomontimes.com/news.aspx?nwID=2464
- Έκθεση Met Museum. Δελτίο Τύπου: Rock ‘n’ Roll to be the theme of metropolitan museum’s december costume institute exhibition. 14/09/1999.
- Victoria & Albert Museum. History of 60’s fashion and textiles. Available: http://www.vam.ac.uk/vastatic/microsites/1211_sixties/hist_wp.pdf
- http://fashion-trends.knoji.com/american-womens-fashion-trends-and-times-history-by-decade-part-2-1950s-and-1960s/
- http://fashion-trends.knoji.com/american-womens-fashion-trends-and-times-by-decade-part-3-70s-80s-90s-and-now/
Intro
Subculture: http://www.theskinny.co.uk/assets/production/37829/37829_original.jpeg?1346758028
50’s Rock ’n’ Roll Music
Elvis Presley (concert): http://www.youstockholm.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/Elvis-Presley-002-e1326117497270.jpg
50’s Rock ‘n’ Roll Icons
Elvis Presley: http://theredlist.fr/media/database/muses/icon/cinema_men/elvis_presley/007_elvis_presley_theredlist.jpg
50’s Rock ‘n’ Roll Fashion
50’s dresses: http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Ep-Z85YdmMg/S79x5Sa-_CI/AAAAAAAAFfg/VxDy-jzVIPc/s1600/4504075276_25b924fc86_b.jpg
Elvis Presley (Jailhouse rock): http://www.doctormacro.com/Images/Presley,%20Elvis/Annex/Annex%20-%20Presley,%20Elvis%20(Jailhouse%20Rock)_02.jpg
50‘s Rockabilly style: screenshot by www.yourscenesucks.com)
60’s (Psychedelic) Rock Music
The Beatles: http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GHv4AYNQnOI/Te4ebTDeEiI/AAAAAAAADwE/c-h5DPvQet0/s1600/Beatles.jpg
The Rolling Stones: http://assets.nydailynews.com/polopoly_fs/1.1112394.1342117462!/img/httpImage/image.jpg_gen/derivatives/gallery_635/the-rolling-stones-madison-square-garden-1969.jpg
Videos
24 Hour Party People (2002)
Wikipedia Social effects of Rock Music
Subcultures
Counteculture
Mainstream Culture
Rock Music
Punk Rock
Psychedelic Rock
Rock ‘n’ Roll
Glam Rock
History of the Western Subcultures in the 20th Century
- Glam Rock originates in early 70‘s, when the UK music landscape was dominated by hard rock bands, later evolved in heavy metal sound (Led+bath)
- The stand out feature for glam rock artists was their extraordinary androgynus style. Men with make up, heavy eyeliner, glitter, blush, feminine hairstyles, feather boa scarves, pattern leathered-platform boots
- The decline came in 1976, but glam rock strongly influenced posterior music genres: Punk, Glam Metal, New Romantics, Gothic Rock.
- Music Icons:
ΤT-Rex Electric Warrior , The Slider , Tanx
David Bowie The Man Who Sold the World, Space Oddity
Roxy Music Virginia Plane, Ladytron, Mother of Pearl
Iggy Pop New values, Soldier, Party
Queen A night at the opera, Live killers, The game
Videography
Image sources
70‘s-Punk Rock Fashion
80’s New Wave Music and Fashion
Joy Division: http://gothstore.piratemerch.com/images/joy-division.jpg
90’s Grunge Rock Music and Fashion
Curt Cobain: http://www.enjoy.gr/images/articles/music/nirvana_3.jpg
00’s Indie Rock Music
Arctic Monkeys: http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4uLKkAyNqvY/Tx5JXaHDeiI/AAAAAAAAB3I/47-iGSeTeak/s1600/Arctic_Monkeys_02.jpg
Animated sketches for fashion (50's, Punk and Indie music) are screenshots from: www.yourscenesucks.com
- 50's Rock'n'Roll->Elvis Presley - Jailhouse Rock
- 60's (Psychedelic) Rock-> The Who - My Generation
- 60's Hard Rock -> Led Zeppelin - Whole Lotta Love
- 60's Fashion-> Twiggy a Paris
- 70's Hippies Rock-> Woodstock 1969 - Jimi Hendrix - Voodoo Child
- 70's Glam Rock -> Velvet Goldmind Trailer
- 70's Punk Rock -> Ramones - I wanna be sedated
- 70's Punk Fashion -> Punk Fashion (on youtube)
- 80's New Wave -> Joy Division - Love Will Tear Us Apart
- 90's Grunge->Pearl Jam - Black
- 00's Indie Rock-> The White Stripes - Hardest Button to button
60’s-Rock Fashion
- 1974-1976 USA, UK, Australia
- Music and attitude for the youth that faced caustic the social problems such as unemployment, economical crisis, urban preppies and hypocrisy.
- Roots: garage rock , protopunk.
- Punk Rock formed with its reactionary character (attitude, dress, music) an important cultural phenomenon. There was little to none distance with the public on stage, rehearsals took place just before the concert opening, small places, before the concert was finished half of the instruments were destroyed, total chaos, 30 min concerts at most.
- Nothing is definite, punk’s purpose is change, any change.
- Music Icons:
Ramones I Wanna Be Your Boyfriend, Cretin Hop, Rockaway Beach
Sex Pistols Holidays in the Sun ,No One Is Innocent , Pretty Vacant
The Clash Revolution rock, Clampdown, Living in fame
- Mod Look(young women): Shift dress style, mini skirts, prints, bikini in USA, mid-boots, larger-heavily-sprayed “bouffant” hairstyle-longer straight hair-sharply geometrical cut, heavy eye make-up. Young men: blue suits and pleated shirts, later collarless jackets, beatle boots, mop-top haircuts.
- Rockers: motorcycle leathers.
- Young (men+women): Gypsy style (pre-hippies): antique jewelry, wild prints, bell jeans with colorful embroidery, scarves, pins, natural long hair. Men: open shirts.
- Bohemian style: Long flowing skirts in printed fabrics, tie-dyed t-shirts, dangling earrings, lacy blouses, velvet vests/jackets, antique jewelries, headbands.
- Fashion Icons:
Jacqueline Kennedy
Twiggy
Music Icons: Jane Birkin, Janis Jopline
Image Sources
Bibliography
- We notice that while over the past decades the audience of a specific music scene chose the same/similar fashion style, nowadays globalization, the spread of the internet and the structural changes in the music industry create the possibility of choosing between different fashion and music styles.
- Specifically, rock’s genres make major changes in fashion industry from the 50’s till today. At the same time, rock stars are also presented and perceived as fashion icons. Therefore, creative industries interact and influence each other.
- Music and fashion are indicating features of a subculture, which is mostly deviating by the dominating culture. (counterculture)
- Clothing is strongly linked with the music genre. Ex. Rock ‘n’ Roll music-danceing music-clothes that demonstrate dancing moves.
- Finally, we observe that over the course of the public from one genre to another, many artists followed the seasonal trends in music and fashion. Ex. Beatles, David Bowie.
- Punk: Moher sweaters, bleached shirts, trousers with zips, safety pins, leather jackets, blouses with nails, plaid pants, body piercing, mohican, geometrical haircuts in bright colors.
- Goth: At the same time period gothic rock style begins to bloom. Theatricality in ‘death’ appearance with white make up, black lipstick, makeup shadow on goths’ faces. Black nail polish, straight black hair, bodypiercing and tattoos show the Victorian age’s influence on goth style.
- M. Fisher. (2007). Something in the air: radio, rock, and the revolution that shaped a generation. p. 53.
- M. T. Bertrand. (2000). Race, rock, and Elvis. University of Illinois Press. pp. 95–6.
- R. Cooper. Η Ιστορία του Punk. (Μεταίχμιο, 2006), p. 84-87.
- Alain Dister. (1993). The Story Of Rock Smash Hits And Superstars. New York: Thames and Hudson. p. 30-57.
- R. Shuker, Popular Music: the Key Concepts (Abingdon: Routledge, 2nd edn., 2005), p. 124-5.
- Negus, Keith (1996). Popular Music in Theory: An Introduction. Wesleyan University Press.
- Wike, Peter. (1993). Rock Music: Culture, Aesthetics and Sociology. Cambridge University Press. pp. 73-90 (Chapter: My Generation: Rock music and sub-cultures).
- Mann. J. (2009). Turn on and Tune in: Psychedelics, Narcotics and Euphoriants. Royal Society of Chemistry, p. 87.
60’s Garage Rock
Sonics: http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o22/lestersands76/sonics_cavestomp-1.jpg
The Monks: http://ugly-things.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/monks.jpg
60’s-70’s Hard Rock Music
Deep Purple: http://www.progarchives.com/progressive_rock_discography_band/1969.jpg
ACDC: http://lh3.ggpht.com/-liRuhIX8CZs/TYhlrVmxItI/AAAAAAAAAOY/hpFrcXaU-tE/pm-acdc081.jpg
60‘s Rock Fashion
Hippies 60’s style: http://paperchildren.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/hip.jpg
Hippies use side door: http://knoji.com/images/user/HippiesUseSideDoorSign.jpg
70’s Glam Rock Music+Fashion:
David Bowie: http://cf0.8tracks.us/mix_covers/000/026/536/34589.max1024.jpg
70’s Punk Rock Music:
Sex Pistols: http://rokpool.com/files/u1/sexpistols.jpg
70’s Punk Rock- Fashion:
Punks left: http://img2.bdbphotos.com/images/orig/l/b/lb9o9j38h2tcj98b.jpg
Punks right: http://www.bloblo.pl/image/296003/oryginal/punk6.jpg
Article sources
- Bayley Jo. (2012). Musical Muses: How Rock and Roll influences Fashion. The Culture Concept Circle. 25/04/2012. Available online at: http://www.thecultureconcept.com/circle/musical-muses-how-rock-and-roll-influences-fashion
- Vigna Killia. (2011). The Musical Influence on Fashion and Design of Clothing over the 20th Century. Scribd.
- Chively Denise. (2007). Punk Fashion: A Comprehensive Guide to the History of Alternative Clothing. Available at: http://www.suite101.com/content/punk-fashion-a13756.
- Casburn Melissa M.. A Concise History of the British Mod Movement. Page 4. Available in pdf format at: http://www.gbacg.org/costume-resources/original/articles/mods.pdf
Thank You!
Q & A