JSU-152 Alex Benvenuti

Pigments... One of my nightmares. Light colors are very hard to deal with, for they easily bleach the surface. Don't worry... You have the power.

What I do is prepare three different tones of pigments : light, medium and dark.

Then, you can apply them with a brush, either in a random way, if you work on the lower hull, or from the light colors to the dark ones for the tank itself.

Fixing them can be done using your airbrush, or

some thinner by capillarity.

Pigments

OPR

One of the fun part is starting. It is a long, very long process, but forces the modeler to think intensely of how to emphasize the model in every way.

Here I have been using many colors to give depth to this model.

I always use very tiny amount of paint, more or less diluted and even pure to reveal the spots I want to draw the attention on.

As I was used to dragging the paint, I had to learn again how to to create effects using a tapping motion to get the paint get into the surface and make body with it.

This is a major technique that I am not about to leave.

Of course you have to keep in mind that layering is the secret. Your layers have to be transparent and the upcoming effects will just reveal what's underneath. You are giving life to your model, give it some history too!

With a fine brush, I applied my pigments, being very careful not to put too much. Remember that layering is the most important thing for you.

Then with an airbrush filled with thinner, I airbrush using a very low pressure and from far.

I repeat the process as often as needed.

JSU-152

Oil Paint Rendering

I am very happy to show the work I have done here. As you will know later this JSU-152 is not finished yet, but I wanted to give it a cool presentation and I hope you will enjoy it as much as the work done.

Modulation

Highlights

Highlights have to be well thought. Study the shape of your model to get the best volumes out of it.

Never hurry!

Of course, dragging the paint is still valuable to give streaking effect. I mostly use AK-Interactive products to give a worn effect like rust or rain

Shadows

Modulation

These are the very first steps of modulation.

As you work your way up to the brighter colors, alway keep in mind that the dark colors, even though they get covered by your next layers have to be visible. They will give shape to your model and make your work look the part.

The modulation set, or your own modulated colors are not for modulation only. Zenithal paint is also ver used and gives more realistic results.

What I did here, was a mix between modulation and zenithal paint.

The overall model is shows a zenithal lighting, but some surfaces were modulated to give more volume.

Modulation was done with the AK-Interactive Modulation Set 4BO. It revealed to be perfect for the job.

Among the things to remember, is to highly dilute the product (1: 1 or even more).

Work your way slowly, layering your paint coats. This is crucial to get the best results.

Start for the darker colors to the brighter ones.

Stains

Chipping

Adding stains and spills is not the hardest thing to do, but can quickly make a model look overdone. As grease and oil have a shiny look, they tend to attract the eye. One key to break that shiny look is to add pigments to the AK-Interactive products. Use a variety of pigments to give interesting effects. You can either paint streaks or even make some splatters.

The chipping process

Before actually started chipping I aibrushed filters on the model. I wanted a very dark look to give some depths and a particular cold atmosphere without having to use a whitewash.

Then, I used a W&N 7 series 3/0 with some Vallejo brown camouflage and red.

The goal is to use a soft tapping motion with your brush with a somehow highly diluted paint.

It really gives a worn effect, as though the paint had peeled in spots and not only large scratches.

I am not a pro, but as far as my skills allowed

me to here. I feel quite happy with the

result.

Before Chipping

Chipping is always very hard for me. I always tend to think I don't want to overdo it or "underdo" it. Therefore, I always think in terms of wear, weather condition, use by the crew, geographical area. Of course there is always an artistic approach to chipping. Some are bigger, others are smaller. I want to make chips attractive to the viewer but I don't want to focus their views on this only.

Some more work to do!!!

Nearly done

Nearly done

Now the model is nearly done...

I still have to paint that muzzle brake green...

Some decals are silvering and I have to remove them and give them some weathering after hand painting them...

The tracks need some more dust and mud...

But I'm having great fun with it!

I hope you like it!