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Slow Fashion

Purpose &

Research Questions

System

Success

Strategic

Guidelines

Actions

Tools

How can a Slow Fashion label be strategically developed and marketed using existing textile and garment labelling schemes, certification bodies and other stakeholders?

What is an effective strategy for communicating the benefits of Slow Fashion to shift individuals from a ‘consumer’ to a ‘co-producer’ mind set?

What is the business case for sustainability for small Slow Fashion designers?

{

Ecosphere

Society

Fashion System

Fast Fashion

Slow Fashion is a decelerated movement inspired by the Slow Food experience where the consumer assumes a new role of 'co-producer' in the supply chain. It aims to meet fundamental human needs such as creativity, identity and participation while allowing for the earth's natural regeneration.

Second hand

Vintage

Our purpose is to:

Strengthen the movement’s journey to sustainability by ensuring that its approach is strategic.

*Here, strengthen means to UNIFY, move collectively towards sustainability & have a common vision*

Phase 1

Primary Research Question

How can a Strategic Sustainable Development (SSD) approach be used to strengthen the Slow Fashion movement and ensure that it is moving strategically towards sustainability?

Secondary Research Questions

1> What does the FSSD reveal about the Slow Fashion movement &

its move towards sustainability?

2> How can Leverage Points be used to strengthen Slow Fashion's

contribution to a sustainable society?

a. How is each Leverage Points being used?

b. What are the barriers or gaps preventing the success of each LP?

3> Based on the above findings, what strategic recommendations can

be made to the Slow Fashion movement?

Methods

Sustainable

Slow Fashion | Tailoring a Strategic Approach towards Sustainability

> Disconnected initiatives all over the world

> Aware of connection to ecological & social systems:

"empower women in rural village"

"to reduce textile waste by upcycling"

"to develop a sustainable lifestyle culture" (survey)

> Not 'officially' recognized, it is grassroots

Agenda 24 May 2010

& email

Phase 2

Leverage Points

> Background

> What is Slow Fashion?

> Purpose & Research Questions

> Methods

> Phase 1 - FSSD

> Phase 2 - Leverage Points

> Phase 3 - Recommendations

> Phase 4 - Slow Fashion Principles

> Further Research

12, 11, 10, 9 ,8 ,7 ,6 ,5 ,4 ,3 ,2 ,1

most effective

least effective

7

POSITIVE feedback loops (reinforcing)

* Slow Fashion needs to grow

6

8

INFORMATION flow

NEGATIVE feedback loops (balancing)

* Spread awareness & make information available

* Slow Fashion aims to bring equilibrium to the Fashion Industry

5

Within the supply chain

> More transparency

> Engaging in dialogue

> Increased amount of education programs

> Increasing on-line hubs

Between producer & co-producer

88% communicate sustainability info through dialogue websites or garment labels

Barriers

> Over 70 private labels

> No common resource for information & best practices

RULES - punishments, constraints, incentives

9

DELAYS - the length of time relative to the rates of system changes

*Level the playing field of whole industry to make Slow Fashion be more competitive

Slow Fashion is small & doesn't have this balancing effect yet.

Media coverage can help Slow Fashion grow, and Consumer Awareness Campaigns will keep it in check.

*Delays in adjusting material stocks and flows

> More punishments to limit pollution

> More global environmental standards are needed

> Secure financing for rainfed cotton

> Remove cotton subsidies

> Time delay for building textile recycling centers

> Fashion designers are being creative by using recycled clothing (GOODONE)

> Technology, skill & growth delay for developing natural dyes

> 97% of respondents were interested in using natural dyes in the future

> Encouraging 'reflective consumption'

4

The power to add, change, evolve or SELF-ORGANIZE system structure

*Become a more organized movement

10

the STRUCTURE of material stocks and flows

Phase 3

* Slow Fashion strives to create new supply chain structures.

Initiatives

> Implementation of on-line hubs (ie. Eco Fashion World, Ethical

Fashion Forum, Organic Exchange)

> Workshops are happening where Slow Fashion players can meet

> Building relationships within the supply chain

> More people can be involved

Barrier

The Slow Fashion movement is only thriving in a few countries that we know of (Canada, UK, USA & Northern European countries)

Recommendations

Initiatives

> Continental Clothing new localized supply chain (design travels)

> Patagonia Common Threads take back program

> Small designers upcycle used clothing.

Eco

Green

Barrier

> 19 designers surveyed stressed that sustainable

materials were not available locally and that the

capacity to produce them was limited.

> 93% of survey respondents do not have a take-back

program or link to this service.

> Building new localized supply chain structures is

challenging (PACT).

3

system GOALS

11

* Achieve a common vision

BUFFERS - the sizes of stabilizing stocks relative to their flows

To ensure there is a variety of sustainable materials used in designs.

They want to

> Meet human needs

> Lessen the impact on environment

> & they have diverse business goals for different brands

They do not share a definition of sustainability.

They do not have a clear idea of where they are going.

Buffers

> Cotton vs. Hemp

> Organic cotton is the most widely used by Slow Fashion

> 21 survey respondents, followed by bamboo, hemp, flax

> Diversifying sustainable materials to reduce resource use

(land, energy, water)

Barrier

> Lack of technology to process alternate fibres

> Lack availability on the market = a higher price.

3 main recommendations were determined with the

3 Prioritization Questions:

Is it a step in the right direction with respect to the vision?

Is it a ‘flexible platform’ for future improvement?

Is it likely to produce a sufficient return on investment?

constants

PARAMETERS

& numbers

12

2

the MINDSET the system arises from

This leverage point is more geared towards the larger fashion industry, the Slow Fashion movement is making efficiency improvements already.

* Change the mindset

"Reflective Consumption"

Efficiency standards are working to ensure

> Water consumption is reduced

> Waste water is filtered from dyehouses

Barrier

> Certifications can be costly making it

unaccessible for small producers

(as 5 have indicated on our survey)

Passive consumerism

Co-Producer

Active participant

1

Slow Fashion is spreading their values through their actions, behaviors and communication. The present mindset of Fast Fashion and consumption is very rooted and will be hard to change.

However, Slow Fashion IS up to this challenge.

3

Co-create Slow Fashion Principles

Create a Slow Fashion Label

1

TRANSCENDING paradigms

2

Establish a Slow Fashion network

Very difficult to achieve, especially in Fashion. It entails not being attached to a paradigm at all, but be able to shift between what is necessary at the time.

No shared definition of sustainability & no collective vision.

> To distinguish Slow Fashion in the market and add credibility

> Build off current schemes

> Certified by an independent third-party

> Globally accessible

> Easily recognized by co-producers

> Be financially affordable for small brands and designers

Establish a vision that represents collective goals and aspirations, and to provide a focal point for self-organization.

These principles are necessary to backcast from.

MUST be constrained by the Sustainability Principles

Intended for any player in the Slow Fashion movement that wishes to facilitate the growth of the movement. It will build local relationships and global interconnectedness.

FSSD Success Level + Inspired by Leverage Points 2 & 3 & 4

Inspired by Leverage Points 5 & 6

FSSD System Level + Inspired by Leverage Points 4 & 6

Phase 4

Slow Fashion

Principles

Haute

Courture

Seeing the big picture

“The money the garments make goes directly back into supporting the organic farmers, mills, local production- it is an ecosystem that supports ethical production from start to finish.” (survey)

Slowing Down Consumption

to allow Earth’s Natural Regeneration.

Kate Fletcher’s 2008 book, Design Journeys, describes how slowing down the use of raw materials by slowing down fashion production could allow the earth’s regenerative capabilities to take place.

“I have been producing slow clothes since the late nineties and I am not about to change that. I am passionate about making a change in our consumption habits and educating the public forum…” (survey).

Make Do and Mend - a movement that promotes making do with what you have.

Slow Lab - writes about how slowing the pace can foster reflective consumption.

Diversity

Strength, Resilience and Beauty lie in diversity.

"Not one answer,

but a mass of answers."

-Kate Fletcher

Cultural Diversity

Biodiversity

Social Diversity

Respecting People

Treating others as they would like to be treated

The OrangOrang project

Acknowledging Human Needs by Co-Creation.

“Most garments are a collaboration between me and the client.”

“I've had customers with old clothes that want re vamping, and we work together on the style and look they want to achieve. I've also made items from the collection out of their own donated items too.”

“We work with individuals to restyle their clothing to a specific theme. If they are willing to engage with the manufacture process then this can also be used, but normally they are happy to hand it over, give a specification and get back an altered garment.”

Jag Bag Productions, Elsa Jagniecki

Building Relationships to Collaborate

Laura Chenoweth

Resourcefulness

Relying on Local Resources and Skills.

Innovative Local Solutions

Local Labour

Local Knowledge

Maintaining Quality and Beauty...

Quality Leads to Longevity

“We strive for longevity by making the design of dresses quite classical. The fabrics we source and quality of stitching are the best we can access locally.”

“Not so trend oriented but more classic period pieces, big statement pieces that are timeless and well made and durable.”

Local Wisdom by Kate Fletcher

Profitability

Contributing to the economic strength of the industry.

“Everything is made by me to keep cost down because you can't change the world if it's not accessible.”

“Yes, the cost of the garments reflect the higher prices of local production (living wages) and the higher price point of purchasing organic cotton etc…”

Practicing Consciousness

Giving Your Heart and Brain a chance.

Tra La La, Stephanie Peterka

Further Research

Using a strategic sustainable development approach, how can the transition from a Fast to Slow Fashion industry be developed to ensure minimum impact of the developing world?

"The developed world has basically got the developing world on a drug that is Fast Fashion and we can't just suddenly take it away, without MASSIVE consequences."

-Mark Bannister

Slow Fashion Forward

Lets move

We invite you to be a part of the movement by taking on the role of co-producer.

Home

Made

No vision means they are UNABLE TO BACKCAST, so they are not acting strategically.

Asian Floor Wage alliance, Labour behind the Label, Clean Clothes Campaign, Eco Fashion World, Eco Chic Fashion Show, Slow Fashion Australia, Slow Lab, Social Alterations High Fashion (School) Workshops, Nordic Intiative Clean and Ethical, Slow Textiles, Upcycling initiatives, Take back programs, GOODONE, Project Rejeaneration, Make Do Mend, Platform 21's Repair Manifesto, Otto Von Busch's Self Passage, Kate Fletcher's books and consultancy and local wisdom and lifetimes!, 5WAYS, The Uniform Project, The Sartorialist, The OrangOrang Project, Aid to Artisans, Project Rejeneration, Burdastyle, Sew Op, Organic Cotton Exchange, Our Social Fabric, Sweat Shop Paris, Better Cotton Intiative, Global Organic Cotton Community, Think Act Vote, Fashion Evolution, Slow Fashion Forward, Clean Up Fashion, The Environmental Justice Foundation's Pop Up Shops, Forum for the Future, Keep and Share, Knit Chics, Stitch n Bitch, Luna Mano, Clothing Swaps & Swishing, Pants to Poverty, Knitting Circles, Permacouture, Fashion takes Action, The Designers Accord, The Garment Remake Exchange, Remade In Leeds, Sew Op's Asian Floor Wage alliance, Labour behind the Label, Clean Clothes Campaign, Eco Fashion World, Eco Chic Fashion Show, Slow Fashion Australia, Slow Lab, Social Alterations High Fashion (School) Workshops, Nordic Intiative Clean and Ethical, Slow Textiles, Upcycling initiatives, Take back programs, GOODONE, Project Rejeaneration, Make Do Mend, Platform 21's Repair Manifesto, Otto Von Busch's Self Passage, Kate Fletcher's books and consultancy and local wisdom and lifetimes!, 5WAYS, The Uniform Project, The Sartorialist, The OrangOrang Project, Aid to Artisans, Project Rejeneration, Burdastyle, Sew Op, Organic Cotton Exchange, Our Social Fabric, Sweat Shop Paris, Better Cotton Intiative, Global Organic Cotton Community, Think Act Vote, Fashion Evolution, Slow Fashion Forward, Clean Up Fashion, The Environmental Justice Foundation's Pop Up Shops, Forum for the Future, Keep and Share, Knit Chics, Stitch n Bitch, Luna Mano, Clothing Swaps & Swishing, Pants to Poverty, Knitting Circles, Permacouture, Fashion takes Action, The Designers Accord, The Garment Remake Exchange, Remade In Leeds, Sew Op's Asian Floor Wage alliance, Labour behind the Label, Clean Clothes Campaign, Eco Fashion World, Eco Chic Fashion Show, Slow Fashion Australia, Slow Lab, Social Alterations High Fashion (School) Workshops, Nordic Intiative Clean and Ethical, Slow Textiles, Upcycling initiatives, Take back programs, GOODONE, Project Rejeaneration, Make Do Mend, Platform 21's Repair Manifesto, Otto Von Busch's Self Passage, Kate Fletcher's books and consultancy and local wisdom and lifetimes!, 5WAYS, The Uniform Project, The Sartorialist, The OrangOrang Project, Aid to Artisans, Project Rejeneration, Burdastyle, Sew Op, Organic Cotton Exchange, Our Social Fabric, Sweat Shop Paris, Better Cotton Intiative, Global Organic Cotton Community, Think Act Vote, Fashion Evolution, Slow Fashion Forward, Clean Up Fashion, The Environmental Justice Foundation's Pop Up Shops, Forum for the Future, Keep and Share, Knit Chics, Stitch n Bitch, Luna Mano, Clothing Swaps & Swishing, Pants to Poverty, Knitting Circles, Permacouture, Fashion takes Action, The Designers Accord, The Garment Remake Exchange, Remade In Leeds, Sew Op's Asian Floor Wage alliance, Labour behind the Label, Clean Clothes Campaign, Eco Fashion World, Eco Chic Fashion Show, Slow Fashion Australia, Slow Lab, Social Alterations High Fashion (School) Workshops, Nordic Intiative Clean and Ethical, Slow Textiles, Upcycling initiatives, Take back programs, GOODONE, Project Rejeaneration, Make Do Mend, Platform 21's Repair Manifesto, Otto Von Busch's Self Passage, Kate Fletcher's books and consultancy and local wisdom and lifetimes!, 5WAYS, The Uniform Project, The Sartorialist, The OrangOrang Project, Aid to Artisans, Project Rejeneration, Burdastyle, Sew Op, Organic Cotton Exchange, Our Social Fabric, Sweat Shop Paris, Better Cotton Intiative, Global Organic Cotton Community, Think Act Vote, Fashion Evolution, Slow Fashion Forward, Clean Up Fashion, The Environmental Justice Foundation's Pop Up Shops, Forum for the Future, Keep and Share, Knit Chics, Stitch n Bitch, Luna Mano, Clothing Swaps & Swishing, Pants to Poverty, Knitting Circles, Permacouture, Fashion takes Action, The Designers Accord, The Garment Remake Exchange, Remade In Leeds, Sew Op's Asian Floor Wage alliance, Labour behind the Label, Clean Clothes Campaign, Eco Fashion World, Eco Chic Fashion Show, Slow Fashion Australia, Slow Lab, Social Alterations High Fashion (School) Workshops, Nordic Intiative Clean and Ethical, Slow Textiles, Upcycling initiatives, Take back programs, GOODONE, Project Rejeaneration, Make Do Mend, Platform 21's Repair Manifesto, Otto Von Busch's Self Passage, Kate Fletcher's books and consultancy and local wisdom and lifetimes!, 5WAYS, The Uniform Project, The Sartorialist, The OrangOrang Project, Aid to Artisans, Project Rejeneration, Burdastyle, Sew Op, Organic Cotton Exchange, Our Social Fabric, Sweat Shop Paris, Better Cotton Intiative, Global Organic Cotton Community, Think Act Vote, Fashion Evolution, Slow Fashion Forward, Clean Up Fashion, The Environmental Justice Foundation's Pop Up Shops, Forum for the Future, Keep and Share, Knit Chics, Stitch n Bitch, Luna Mano, Clothing Swaps & Swishing, Pants to Poverty, Knitting Circles, Permacouture, Fashion takes Action, The Designers Accord, The Garment Remake Exchange, Remade In Leeds, Sew Op's Asian Floor Wage alliance, Labour behind the Label, Clean Clothes Campaign, Eco Fashion World, Eco Chic Fashion Show, Slow Fashion Australia, Slow Lab, Social Alterations High Fashion (School) Workshops, Nordic Intiative Clean and Ethical, Slow Textiles, Upcycling initiatives, Take back programs, GOODONE, Project Rejeaneration,

and local wisdom and lifetimes!, 5WAYS, The Uniform Project, The Sartorialist, The OrangOrang Project, Aid to Artisans, Project Rejeneration, Burdastyle, Sew Op, Organic Cotton Exchange, Our Social Fabric,

Sweat Shop Paris, Better Cotton Intiative, Global Organic Cotton Community, Think Act Vote, Fashion Evolution, Slow Fashion Forward, Clean Up Fashion, The Environmental Justice Foundation's Pop Up Shops,

Forum for the Future, Keep and Share, Knit Chics, Stitch n Bitch, Luna Mano, Clothing Swaps & Swishing, Pants to Poverty, Knitting Circles, Permacouture, Fashion takes Action, The Designers Accord, The Garment

Remake Exchange, Remade In Leeds, Sew Op's Asian Floor Wage alliance, Labour behind the Label, Clean Clothes Campaign, Eco Fashion World, Eco Chic Fashion Show, Slow Fashion Australia, Slow Lab, Social

Alterations High Fashion (School) Workshops, Nordic Intiative Clean and Ethical, Slow Textiles, Upcycling initiatives, Take back programs, GOODONE, Project Rejeaneration, Make Do Mend, Platform 21's

Repair Manifesto, Otto Von Busch's Self Passage, Kate Fletcher's books and consultancy and local wisdom and lifetimes!, 5WAYS, The Uniform Project, The Sartorialist, The OrangOrang Project, Aid to Artisans,

Project Rejeneration, Burdastyle, Sew Op, Organic Cotton Exchange, Our Social Fabric, Sweat Shop Paris, Better Cotton Intiative, Global Organic Cotton Community, Think Act Vote, Fashion Evolution, Slow

Fashion Forward, Clean Up Fashion, The Environmental Justice Foundation's Pop Up Shops, Forum for the Future, Keep and Share, Knit Chics, Stitch n Bitch, Luna Mano, Clothing Swaps & Swishing, Pants to

Poverty, Knitting Circles, Permacouture, Fashion takes Action, The Designers Accord, The Garment Remake Exchange, Remade In Leeds, Sew Op's Asian Floor Wage alliance, Labour behind the Label, Clean

Clothes Campaign, Eco Fashion World, Eco Chic Fashion Show, Slow Fashion Australia, Slow Lab, Social Alterations High Fashion (School) Workshops, Nordic Intiative Clean and Ethical, Slow Textiles, Upcycling

initiatives, Take back programs, GOODONE, Project Rejeaneration, Make Do Mend, Platform 21's Repair Manifesto, Otto Von Busch's Self Passage, Kate Fletcher's books and consultancy and local wisdom and lifetimes!,

5WAYS, The Uniform Project, The Sartorialist, The OrangOrang Project, Aid to Artisans, Project Rejeneration, Burdastyle, Sew Op, Organic Cotton Exchange, Our Social Fabric, Sweat Shop Paris, Better Cotton

Intiative, Global Organic Cotton Community, Think Act Vote, Fashion Evolution, Slow Fashion Forward, Clean Up Fashion, The Environmental Justice Foundation's Pop Up Shops, Forum for the Future, Keep and

Share, Knit Chics, Stitch n Bitch, Luna Mano, Clothing Swaps & Swishing, Pants to Poverty, Knitting Circles, Permacouture, Fashion takes Action, The Designers Accord, The Garment Remake Exchange, Remade In

Leeds, Sew Op's Asian Floor Wage alliance, Labour behind the Label, Clean Clothes Campaign, Eco Fashion World, Eco Chic Fashion Show, Slow Fashion Australia, Slow Lab, Social Alterations High Fashion (School)

Workshops, Nordic Intiative Clean and Ethical, Slow Textiles, Upcycling initiatives, Take back programs, GOODONE, Project Rejeaneration, Make Do Mend, Platform 21's Repair Manifesto, Otto Von Busch's Self

Passage, Kate Fletcher's books and consultancy and local wisdom and lifetimes!, 5WAYS, The Uniform Project, The Sartorialist, The OrangOrang Project, Aid to Artisans, Project Rejeneration, Burdastyle, Sew Op,

Organic Cotton Exchange, Our Social Fabric, Sweat Shop Paris, Better Cotton Intiative, Global Organic Cotton Community, Think Act Vote, Fashion Evolution, Slow Fashion Forward, Clean Up Fashion, The

Environmental Justice Foundation's Pop Up Shops, Forum for the Future, Keep and Share, Knit Chics, Stitch n Bitch, Luna Mano, Clothing Swaps & Swishing, Pants to Poverty, Knitting Circles, Permacouture,

> Closing the material loop

> Remaking existing vintage garments

> Produce garments locally

> Lifetime repair or redesign assistance

> No water or chemicals dye processes

> Educating the co-producer

> Using biodegradable packaging

> Offseting carbon emissions

Life-cycle thinking & eco-design - 73 % of respondents

Labelling - 8 survey respondents:

> Certified Organic Cotton

> Fair Trade

> OEKO TEX STANDARD 100

> Made-By label

> Organic Exchange

> Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS)

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