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Paul Poiret

Bibliography, career, vision

Yasmin Notivoli

on 12 November 2012

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Transcript of Paul Poiret

Paul Poiret Early life Paul Poiret arrived on the Paris scene when the nineteenth century was closing belatedly and the twentieth century slowly was opening. Born in 1879 in the poor neighborhood of Les Halls, Paris. Career Poiret expressed his independence early, often sketching designs along the margins of his school notebooks, sneaking into art galleries, or watching theater performances at the Comédie-Française. After he finished his degree, his father arranged for an apprenticeship with a family friend who owned an umbrella company. Although Poiret was unhappy sweeping floors and running errands, he made the most of his time, conjuring up some of his first dress designs from umbrella remnants. In 1898, he presented twelve sketches to Madame Madeleine Chéruit, then head of the fashion house Raudnitz et Cie. She purchased the entire series, and with his first sale behind him, Poiret soon caught the eye of renowned couturier Jacques Doucet, who offered Poiret a job as a junior assistant designer. Poiret later moved to the House of Worth, where he was responsible for designing simple, practical dresses. Atelier Martine Opened on April 1, 1911, Atelier Martine was the interior design business owned and operated by Paul Poiret. The business consisted of École Martine, Atelier Martine, and La Maison Martine. École Martine (housed in Poiret's premises in rue d'Antin) was an experimental art school for young, working-class girls. Inspired by the textiles developed by the Wiener Werkstätte, Poiret decided to hire artistically untrained girls with little means in order to produce designs that were informal and naive. The girls were sent out to study foliage and vegetation, taking trips to the countryside, markets, and botanical gardens. Poiret’s idea was to nurture the artists’ natural creativity rather than provide formal artistic training. Their incredible designs are reminiscent of folk art, bright and vivid and utterly striking.Under the direction of design educator Marguerite Gabriel-Claude Sérusier, these untrained girls sketched plants and animals in local parks and zoos. Poiret bought the best of their drawings, which were adapted for use by Atelier Martine, the design studio. One of Paul Poiret's first creations at Maison Doucet In 1900, Paul was employed at the house of Worth and did not continue for long, as on the 1st September, 1904 he opened his own establishment at 5 Rue Auber. This was financed by his mother. Between 1904 & 1924 he irrevocably changed the feminine form with his new fashion designs by dismissing the use of corsets and eliminating layered petticoats. He introduced the first modern straight lined dress the beginning of his extraordinary success in the field of Fashion inspiration. Paul Poiret was a significant exponent of Art Deco commissioning many well known Artists of the time who illustrated his designs. It is also known that he worked with the Artist Raoul Dufy. At first, Atelier Martine produced only textiles and wallpapers, but soon expanded to create carpets, lighting, hand-painted glassware and ceramics, and other items for interiors (including dolls outfitted by Poiret). Furniture and interior decorating services were introduced under the direction of Guy-Pierre Fauconnet. The output of the atelier was sold through the retail and interior design service of the business, La Maison Martine. The shop was located at 107, rue du Faubourg Saint Honoré; it remained there until 1924, when it moved to Rond-Point des Champs-Élysées. By the early 1920s, branches had been opened in Marseilles, Cannes, Biarritz, Deauville, La Baule, as well as in London and Vienna. Martine products were actively promoted and sold in department stores in America and Germany. The girls' designs were fresh, spontaneous, and inspired by nature . They used gouache or pastel to design colorful floral patterns. Atelier Marine's style was very influential till the end of the 1930s. Shops were opened in Paris , Berlin, London, Philadelphia and Biarritz. In the late 30s Paul Poiret went bankrupt and and Atelier Martine closed down in 1929. Atelier Martine, 1925 Moved Up in the World
of Design Poiret was becoming increasingly popular with the public. In his autobiography, Poiret stated, "People have been good enough to say that I have exercised a powerful influence over my age, and that I have inspired the whole of my generation. I dare not make the pretension that this is true … ". An important example of Poiret's artistic influence was in his work with Paul Iribe. With Iribe creating the drawings that pictured Poiret's dresses, they produced a publication for the elite society titled Les Robes de Paul Poiret, racontees par Paul Iribe. Poiret produced a similar album with artist Georges Lepape two years later titled Les choses de Paul Poiret vues par Georges Lepape. Both publications were tremendously successful. Consequentially, fashion illustration and literature once again became very popular. New publications appeared, such as the monthly Gazette du Bon Ton, which featured many of Poiret's designs.
Poiret continued to promote his own career. And his interest in interior decoration started to grow more as he continued designing and decorating the backgrounds for his models photo shoots. He designed flamboyant window displays and threw legendary parties to draw attention to his work. Also, he decorated his own house and shop as we as well as he designed several furniture pieces. Expanding Interests Paris, 1917. Exceptional French Art Deco Dresser by Paul Poiret 1930's
A Three piece dresser cabinet by the famous fashion designer. The center with a shelf and double doors, which reveal four drawers on the interior, flanked by graduating drawers which rotate to open. Black lacquer with scallop silver leaf design. Pulls are silver leaf wood and are crafted into the cabinet. Poiret Screen. Poiret and Furniture design Hand-coloured pochoir stencil by Georges Lepape, from 'Les Choses de Paul Poiret', France, about 1911. Paul Poiret and Interior Decoration Paul Poiret Couture House The interiors of the house relied for their effect on brightly coloured decorations of trees and flowers painted on the walls, with low furniture and shimmering or boldly patterned fabrics. Poiret made no distinction between furnishing and clothing textiles, and this crossover between women's high fashion and interior design is typical of Art Deco. The style was conceived in response to the challenge of rational, functional, Auto-German design perceived as masculine and was identified with frivolity, irrationality and 'mere' decoration, regarded as feminine, a gender stereotype inherent in Western culture. Poiret at the Atelier Martine Denise shown here in the same room- but a different painting by van Dongen and a Indiennes print on the bed. The bedroom designed and decorated by paul poiret represents a Bohemian style full of pattern. The walls were a red and blue fabric, bold floors, a stripe, a Provencal style printed cloth. The Poiret's set up a small table at the foot of the bed with stools pulled up for idling the afternoon in away with a guest or two. Above the bed-Dutch painter-Kees van Dongen's Quietude. References: Poiret Paul, Chicago Art Deco Society Magazine Spring/Summer 2007.

Halle Titi.A Catalogue of exquisite & rare works of art including 17th to 20th century costume textiles & needlework.Winter 2010–2011 CORA GI NSBURG LLC













http://www.answers.com/topic/paul-poiret Done By: Yasmin T.Notivoli The bedroom designed by Paul Poiret in 1924 combines an art Deco style with a strong oriental and Japanese inspirations. The exotic wall-decorations and low bed with silk tasseled cushions evoke an atmosphere of the orient. To complete the fantasy a snail has strayed into the center of the ceiling. Bedroom.. Throughout the years, Paul Poirets' works and designs were of great influence to other designers. Paul's fingerprints are still seen in many interior designs and wall decorations as well as in the fashion industry.
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