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CHAPTER 21 HAIRCOLOR

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jennifer collins

on 11 October 2016

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Transcript of CHAPTER 21 HAIRCOLOR

CHAPTER 21 HAIRCOLOR
HAIR COLOR (NATURAL) HAIRCOLOR - INDUSTRY COINED TERM FOR ARTIFICIAL COLOR
WHY STUDY??
ONE OF THE MOST CREATIVE, challenging AND POPULAR SERVICES.
HAIRCOLOR CLIENTS RETURN EVERY 4 TO 12 WEEKS
BE AWARE OF HOW CHEMICALS WORK
KEEP YOU AND YOUR CLIENT SAFE
COLOR CLIENTS ARE MORE LOYAL
WHY PEOPLE COLOR THEIR HAIR
COVER/BLEND GRAY
ENHANCE NATURAL COLOR
CREATE A FASHION STATEMENT
CORRECT UNWANTED TONES
ACCENTUATE A HAIRCUT
HAIR FACTS
CUTICLE - Outermost layer 20% strength
CORTEX - Strength/elasticity 80%-Melanin
MEDULLA - Innermost layer
TEXTURE-Diameter/Course, medium & fine
DENSITY-Hairs per square inch/Thick/thin
POROSITY-Low/resistant-High/porous
EUMELANIN-black/brown
PHEOMELANIN-blond/red


THE LEVEL SYSTEM
CONTRIBUTING PIGMENT
GRAY HAIR
LOST PIGMENT
MOST RETAIN A CERTAIN PERCENTAGE
SALT AND PEPPER
REQUIRES SPECIAL ATTENTION IN FORMULATING
COLOR THEORY
PROPERTY OF OBJECTS AS THEY REFLECT LIGHT AND AS DETERMINED BY THE HUMAN EYE!
BASE COLOR - PREDOMINANT TONE OF A COLOR
LAW OF COLOR - SYSTEM FOR UNDERSTANDING COLOR AND ITS RELATIONSHIPS - ACCURATE RESULTS
PRIMARY
COLORS
BASE
SECONDARY
BASE
COLORS
TERTIARY
BASE
COLORS
STRONGEST/DARKEST COOL
MEDIUM/WARM
WEAKEST/WARM
ALL THREE = BROWN
B+RR+YYY = NBROWN
TONE/HUE - BALANCE OF COLOR(WARM COOL OR NEUTRAL
INTENSITY - STRENGTH OF A COLOR
BASE COLOR - PREDOMINANT TONE
TYPES OF HAIRCOLOR
HAIRCOLOR PRODUCTS FALL IN TO TWO CATEGORIES NONOXIDATIVE AND OXIDATIVE
NONOXIDATIVE
TEMPORARY
SEMIPERMANENT
OXIDATIVE
DEMIPERMANENT
PERMANENT
ANALINE DERIVITAVE//OXYGEN
GLAZE/SOAP CAP/FILLER/TONER
VEGETABLE DYES
NATURAL - HENNA, PLANTS
DO NOT LIGHTEN
SHADES OF RED/BROWN/BLACK
METALLIC DYES
GRADUAL/PROGRESSIVE
HYDROGEN PEROXIDE DEVELOPERS
KNOWN AS OXIDIZING AGENTS OR CATALYSTS
CREAM OR CLEAR LIQUID
VOLUME - CONCENTRATION/STRENGTH OF H2O2(hydrogen Peroxide)
10VOL - DEPOSIT ONLY
20VOL - STANDARD/GRAY (1/2)
30VOL - ADDITIONAL LIFT (2/3)
40VOL - MAXIMUM LIFT (4/5)
LIGHTENERS
CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS THAT LIGHTEN HAIR BY DISPERSING, DISSOLVING, AND DECOLORIZING THE NATURAL HAIR PIGMENT
BOOSTERS, ACTIVATORS, PROTINATORS
USES
LIGHTEN HAIR PRIOR TO COLOR APPLICATION (DOUBLE PROCESS COLOR)
LIGHTEN HAIR TO PARTICULAR SHADE.
BRIGHTEN AND LIGHTEN EXISTING SHADE
LIGHTEN ONLY CERTAIN PARTS OF HAIR
LIGHTEN DARK NATURAL OR COLOR TREATED
THE DECOLORIZING PROCESS
CAN GO THROUGH 10 STAGES
EXPOSE CONTRIBUTING PIGMENT
HAIR CAN NOT BE LIGHTENED PAST THE PALE YELLOW SAFELY
TONERS - NEUTRALIZE UNWANTED PIGMENT
CLIENT CONSULTATION
SERVICE RECORD
BOOK 15 MIN EXTRA
PROPER LIGHTING
TEMP/PERM
ALL OVER/DIMENSIONAL?
DRAMATIC/CONSERVATIVE
SHOW PICTURES
GIVE OPTIONS
RELEASE STATEMENT/SCHOOLS AND SALONS/ MALPRACTICE INSURANCE
HAIRCOLOR FORMULATION
1. WHAT IS THE NATURAL LEVEL? IS THERE GRAY?
2. DESIRED LEVEL/TONE?
3. CONTRIBUTING PIGMENTS
4. WHAT COLORS SHOULD BE MIXED TOGETHER TO GET FINAL RESULT?
HAIRCOLOR APPLICATIONS
PATCH/PREDISPOSITION TEST-24/48 hours prior
STRAND TEST
BRUSH AND BOWL/BOTTLE APPLICATION
SINGLE PROCESS/ DOUBLE PROCESS/RETOUCH/GLAZE/LINE OF DEMARCATION
SINGLE PROCESS HAIRCOLOR
ONE STEP LIFT AND DEPOSIT OF PERMANENT HAIRCOLOR INCLUDING RETOUCH
DOUBLE PROCESS
PRE LIGHTENING/COLOR OR TONER
SPECIAL EFFECTS/DIMENSIONAL COLOR
HILIGHTING
REVERSE HILIGHTING/LOWLIGHTING
BLOCK COLORING
FOILING - CAP - BALIAGE
COLOR CORRECTION
WHAT WENT WRONG?
COLOR CORRECTION IS FIXING PROBLEM HAIR
TONING -
FILLING -
HAIRCOLOR
LEVEL 5, 6, 7 BEST
FORMULATE 1/2 LEVELS LIGHTER IF SALT/PEPPER
Identifying Natural Level
1-10
1 Darkest
10 Lightest
Line of Demarcation
Full transcript