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Heidi Tarman

on 16 May 2015

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Transcript of HAIR REMOVAL

Chapter Outline
Why study hair removal?
Client Consultation
Contraindications for hair removal
Permanent hair removal
Temporary hair removal
Learning Objectives
Describe the elements of a client consultation for hair removal.
Name the conditions that contraindicate hair removal in the salon.
Identify and describe 3 methods of permanent hair removal.
Demonstrate the techniques involved in temporary hair removal.
One of the fastest growing services in the salon and spa businesses is hair removal. Once restricted to an occasional lip or brow service, a growing number of clients want to have their entire face, arms and legs bare of hair.

Bikini hair removal has also evolved into its own art form, with different designs becoming sought-after services by many clients.
Brazilian bikini waxing

a waxing technique that requires the removal of all the hair from the front and back of the bikini area
, is a popular style of waxing. This type of waxing requires more specific training than offered in this book.

Many men are now frequently requesting hair removal services. Legs, arms, chests, neck and back are some of the areas men want hair removed from.

The most common form of hair removal in salons and spas is waxing
, but with the popularity of these services on the rise, many different methods are now coming into play.

, also known as
, refers to the growth of an unusual amount of hair on parts of the body normally bearing only downy hair, such as the faces of women and the backs of men.

is an excessive growth or cover of hair, especially in women.

All of the various approaches to hair removal fall into two major categories: permanent and temporary.
Salon techniques are generally limited to temporary methods.
Removing unwanted hair is a primary concern for many clients, and being able to advise them on the various types of hair removal will enhance your ability to satisfy your clients.
Offering clients hair removal services that meet their needs and can be scheduled while they are already in the salon can be a valuable extra service you can offer.
Learning the proper hair removal techniques and performing them safely makes you an even more important part of a client's beauty regimen.
Before performing any hair removal service, a consultation is always necessary. Ask the client to complete a
health screening form
. Similar to an intake form
, it is a questionnaire that disclosed all medications, both topical and oral, along with any known skin disorders or allergies that might affect treatment.
Keep in mind that many changes can occur between client visits. Since a client's last visit, he or she may have been prescribed medications such as antidepressants, hormones, cortisone, medicine for blood pressure or diabetes or topical prescriptions such as Retin-A, Renova, and hydroquinone.
A client using any one of these prescriptions may not be a candidate for hair removal.

Many of these medications cause changes in the skin that can cause epidermal skin to lift during waxing treatment.

Clients who have autoimmune diseases such as lupus can have reactions to the inflammation caused by waxing, electrolysis or other hair removal methods.

Clients with conditions such as rosacea or eczema can experience severe skin inflammation, because these skin conditions are likely to already be inflamed before treatment.
Contraindications for Hair Removal
One of the main purposes of a client consultation is to determine the presence of contraindications for hair removal. Some medical conditions and medications may cause thinning of the skin or make the skin more vulnerable to injury. Clients should not have any waxing or hair removal performed anywhere on the body if one or more of the following is the case, without first obtaining written permission from their physician.
rosacea or very sensitive skin
history of fever blisters or cold sores
recent microdermabrasion
recent laser treatments
see more on page 691
Contraindicators for waxing:
Contraindicators for laser treatment:
Permanent Hair Removal
Although permanent hair removal services are not often offered in salons, it is useful to know the options that exist. Permanent hair removal methods include :

This is the removal of hair by means of an electric current that destroys the growth cells of the hair.
The current is applied with a very fine, needle-shaped electrode that is inserted into each follicle.
This technique must only be performed by a licensed electrologist.
, also known as
Intense Pulsed Light (IPL)
, uses intense light to destroy the growth cells of the hair follicle.
Minimal side effects, requires no needle thus, minimizes the risk of infection. Clinical studies show that photoepilation can provide 50-60% clearance of hair in 12 weeks.Can be done in some salons by cosmetologists and estheticians depending on state laws. Manufacturers generally provide special training.
Laser Hair Removal
Lasers are another method for rapid removal of unwanted hair.
In laser hair removal, a laser beam is pulsed on the skin, impairing hair growth.
It is most effective when used on follicles that are in the growth or anagen phase.

Lasers are not for everyone; an absolute requirement is that one's hair must be darker than the surrounding skin. Coarse, dark hair responds the best to laser treatment.
For some laser hair removal can be permanent, for others simply slows the regrowth process.

In certain states, cosmetologists or estheticians are allowed to perform laser hair removal under a doctor's supervision. This requires specialized training offered by manufacturer and state laws must be checked for photoepilation and laser hair removal.

Temporary Hair Removal
Shaving is the most common form of temporary hair removal, particularly of men's facial hair
Targeted areas should be softened by applying a warm, moist towel and then applying a shaving cream or lotion that has excellent lubrication qualities and calms the skin.
Contrary to popular belief, shaving does not cause the hair to grow thicker or stronger.
It only seems that way because the razor blunts the hair ends and makes them feel stiff.
is using tweezers to remove hairs, commonl used to shape the eyebrows, and can also be used to remove undesirable hairs from around the mouth and chin. Correctly shaped eyebrows have a strong, positive impact on the overall attractiveness of the face.
The natural arch of the eyebrow follows the orbital bone, or the curved line of the eye socket
, but hair can grow both above and below the natural line. By removing these hairs it gives a clean and attactive appearance.

is a substance, usually a caustic alkali preparation, use for the temporary removal of superfluous hair by dissolving it at the skin's surface.
It contains detergent to strip the sebum from the hair and adhesives to hold the chemicals to the hair shaft for the five to en minutes necessary to remove the hair. During the application time, the hair expands and the disulfide bonds break. Finally the chemicals, sodium-hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, thioglycolic acid or calcium thioglycolate,destroy the disulfide bonds. This turns the hair into a soft, jelly-like mass that can be scraped from the skin.
Depilatories can be inflammatory to skin, and should not be used on sensitive skin types or on clients who have contraindications for waxing. Always a good idea to do a
patch test on a hairless part of the arm.
An epilator removes the hair from the bottom of the follicle.
Wax is a commonly used epilator, applied in either hot or cold form as recommended by the manufacturer. Both products are made primarily of resins and beeswax.
Cold wax is somewhat thicker and does not require fabric strips for removal
. Because waxing removes the hair from the bottom of the follicle, the hair takes longer to grow back. The time between waxings is generally four to six weeks.
Wax may be applied to various parts of the face and body, such as the eyebrows, cheeks, chin, upper lip, arms and legs. On male clients, wax may be used to remove hair on the back and nape of the neck.
The hair should be at least 1/4 inch long for waxing to be effective.
Hair more than 1/2 inch long should be trimmed before waxing.
When waxing is done properly, the hair will not feel like beard stubble as it grows out. Before beginning treatment, be sure that the client completes a health screening form and have the client sign a release form.
Wear disposable gloves to prevent contact with bloodbourne pathogens.
See Safety Precautions for Hot and Cold Waxing on page 695
Threading is a temporary hair removal method whereby cotton thread is twisted and rolled along the surface of the skin, entwining the hair in the thread and lifting it from the follicle.
Still practiced in many Eastern cultures today. Threading has become very popular in the United States as an alternative to other methods. It requires specialized training.
Sugaring is another temporary hair removal methodthat involves the use of a thick,sugar-based paste and is especially appropriate for more sensitive skin types.
It is becoming more popular and produces the same results as hot or cold wax. One advantage with sugaring is the hair can be removed even if it is only 1/8inch long. Removing the residue from the skin is simple, as it dissolves with warm water.
Threading, sugaring and specialty waxing, such as Brazilian waxing, are advanced techniques that require additional training and experience.
Soften brows with, two pledgets of cotton or a towel ,with warm water and place over brows to soften and relax the eyebrow tissue.
When tweezing always remove hair in the direction of its growth.
When waxing do NOT double dip.
When waxing always pull strip in opposite direction of hair growth.
Remove any remaining wax with a gentle wax remover.
See page 702 for a tip on determining the best shape for brows.
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