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Okay, Hi guys, how are you? I wanted to go over chapter 21 with you guys on hair color

And first we're gonna talk about the reasons people color their hair.

So clients like to color their hair to cover up our blend gray,

enhance an existing hair color,

create a fashion statement

or a statement of self expression,

correct unwanted tones in the hair caused by environmental exposure

such as sun or chlorine and accentuate a particular haircut.

Many people experiment with hair coloring when a client

turns to you for advice and a service,

we need to have a thorough understanding of

hair color products and how it is affected.

As we train.

As a trained professional,

you will learn which shades of color are most flattering on your

client and which products and techniques will achieve the desired look.

We want to review the hair fax.

So we're going to go over the three different components of our hair.

Hair is made up of three components. We have our cuticle, our cortex and a medulla.

Our cuticle is gonna be our outside outer load outermost layer,

it is about 20% of the hair's overall strength.

So cuticle is what we feel.

Okay, cuticle is what we feel um that its job is to protect the inner layer,

which we call the cortex.

Now the cortex is the middle layer of the hair

that gives the hair majority of its strength and elasticity.

A healthy cortex contributes about 80% of the overall strength of hair.

It contains a natural pigment called melanin and

it's going to determine the hair color.

Melanin Granules are going to be called melanin That determines hair color.

Melanin Granules are scattered between the cortex,

like uh salads on chips of the chocolate chip cortex makes up.

And I want you guys to drop this down 80% of the hair's overall strength.

So it's the middle layer that we can't see.

This is where the color changes gonna happen.

This is where you're disqualified, bonds are going to happen

and this is where your hair holds the most electricity and strength.

The last component is the medulla

and this is the innermost layer.

This is sometimes absent in fine hair. So what that means for fine hair?

It's going to process a lot faster, a lot quicker.

Okay, um texture is going to be something next. That plays a role with hair color.

Um, texture can be defined as diameter and fill.

So we did it in class where we were filling each other's hair strength. Uh

someone that does have

finer hair, that color is gonna process faster.

Someone that has coarser hair, the hair's gonna process longer.

Okay,

coarser hair is twice in diameter and the

melanin are gonna be grouped closer together.

Okay, so it's gonna take longer for that color to take.

Now, density, density is like, how much hair do you have on your head? So

sorry, density is a number of hairs per square inch.

And then we're gonna go into porosity

porosity is gonna be um

how like that your hair's ability to absorb moisture. Okay in different degrees.

Low porosity means the cuticle is very very tight and it's going to be resistant.

So our colors are not gonna take very fast. They're gonna take longer.

They're gonna be more stubborn.

Average porosity. The cuticle is going to be a little bit open.

So maybe it's had color treated, maybe it's a little bit damaged. It's gonna take

average time. So average time for color would be 25 to 30 minutes now.

High porosity to me. High porosity is a nice way of saying damaged.

Okay that's the word we use instead of damaged.

High porosity is going to be that the color will take very very fast

and it's going to fade out fast.

So if you have a client where their hair color fades a lot

and the color doesn't stay in it could they could have high porosity.

You could correct high porosity with ferocity fillers,

deep treatments um trims that's all gonna help it.

Okay so now we're gonna talk a little bit about the different um

colors that we have in our hair naturally.

We have people have two types of melanin or three types

of melanin in their hair when we call you melanin.

The e. Is silent. This is going to be black and brown hair.

So if you're naturally born with dark hair,

you're gonna be you have you Melanie,

another word would be theo melanin.

Fio melanin Sounds like Fiona to me. So that's gonna be red and blonde hair.

Fiona Fiona melanin.

This was going to give you blonde and uh

red hair. Or you could have mixed melanin where you have both dark and light hair.

Okay, This plays a role in color as well, depending on how naturally dark you are.

That client might have a longer process to get light.

If they're naturally a sandy blonde,

they're going to get platinum very, very quickly. So texture is going to play a role.

Melanie is going to play a role and ferocity is going to play a role.

These are things that we got to check before we even tell a client, you know what?

We can go ahead and do your color for you.

The next thing we got to talk about is level.

Now every single hair color follows falls on a level. Is this a level one?

Is this a level two? Is this a level 345. So level system, I want you guys to take note

it identifies how dark or how light a hair color is with the number.

Okay, so one is going to be black,

two would be dark brown,

Three would be medium brown. Four would be light brown, five would be new.

Uh neutral brown, six would be dark blond.

So once you start getting into six, that's dark blond, seven is medium blonde.

Or I like to say caramel

Eight is when you're actually in the blond family.

Okay, nine is going to be light blonde and 10 is lightest blonde.

11 and 12 would go into your platinums.

So

the level system is determining how light or how dark it is with the numbers.

So we're gonna learn our hair colors with numbers one being black,

five being medium brown, 10 being blonde.

Okay,

so to identify you guys would want to take a color swatch,

put it into the client's hair and figure it out.

Figure out. Is this a level four?

Is this a level two is just a level one because you want to make

sure that you're doing a good consultation and

you're not guessing on your client's hair,

that's where your color can go wrong.

So you wanna swatch out. So you'll find a hair swatch that has the different levels.

You put it in the hair and figure out what level they're at

before you continue to put color on their hair.

Okay, so um

gray gray is a big factor. You want to figure out if a client has um

20% grade, 50% grade or more. Anything below 20%.

You can mix up the color regularly if it's 50% more

Gray. Like they have a lot of salt and pepper, a lot of white in there.

You guys always want to use 20 volume. You guys could pre soften the hair.

Um

You guys could do all, you have to leave 45 minutes.

You're gonna leave it on a little bit longer.

Okay, so gray hair has a few tricks when we get hands on with gray and color,

which is coming up soon.

Um, I'll talk to you guys about pre softening and show you what it is

and how to mix a target color or base color with the target color.

Okay,

think of it like when you're painting,

when you're mixing pink and white, white being the hair pink, you know,

just being the color when you mix any color with white, you get a lighter shade.

Okay, so that's what gray hair does.

So we always want to put in what we call the neutral shade plus the target shape.

Okay, but we'll learn more about that with hands on projects.

We're going to talk about tone next because level is how dark or how light and color

is tone is going to be the second thing that we talked about in hair color.

So we want to talk about our primary colors first,

let's write down our primary colors are going to be red, yellow and blue,

red, yellow and blue. So these are pure tones. Hot dog on a stick.

Secondary colors are gonna be orange, green and violet.

Secondary colors are made by mixing one primary plus one primary example.

When you mix red and yellow, which are both primaries,

you get orange when you mix yellow and blue,

you get green When you mix blue and red, you get violent.

So we call it secondary colors. Okay,

secondary colors again, let's write it down,

orange, violet and green.

Okay.

And then we have T sherry colors.

T Sherry colors are gonna be when you mix one primary and one secondary.

So there's gonna be six.

Okay, for example, we have yellow and orange, yellow, primary,

um orange secondary. When you mix those two, you get a yellow, orange,

yellow, green,

blue, green,

blue, violet, red, violet, red, orange.

So mixing one primary, one secondary is what gives us our T shirts the colors.

Now, why do we learn this? Why do we need to know every hair color has a tone?

Some hair colors are going to be red tones, copper tones, gold tones, ash tones,

which is green.

So we want to know how to either complement a client um skin and eye color or cancel.

So we need to know our color. Blue,

complementary colors are going to be colors that

sit on the opposite side of the color.

Will so when you guys are reading your book, you will see the color. Will

I want you guys to write down complementary colors

will be yellow and purple,

which reminds me of Lakers,

blue and orange, which reminds me of the Chicago bears

and red and green, which is christmas.

Okay, when you mix these colors together,

they're going to cancel each other and make browns and bages.

So when a client you bleach them out and they turn yellow, orange,

you're gonna use a blue violet to cancel that.

When you bleach a client on and she turns red, you're gonna use green to cancel that.

So you would go right across the color wheel to cancel out.

So it's very big for color corrections. It's very big for canceling.

You could also use it for complimenting.

Like if a client had um green eyes, red hair is gonna really look wonderful on her.

If a client had blue eyes, orange, copper hair are even rust,

rust colors are gonna look really good on her.

And skin tone. Say a client has yellow skin tone.

You guys can do a violet to kind of

compliment that a little bit.

I think if we do it with makeup, if they have blue and purple around their eyes,

we use like an orange.

So it's going to do the same thing for color.

Okay, so we call it complementary colors and again,

they sit across from each other on the color wheel.

Purple and violet. Lakers,

blue and orange Chicago paris

and red and green christmas.

Okay, so we talked about that. Every color has a tone.

That's why we need to learn that color. Well

tone is known as a hue or a balance of color.

So take note on that, the tone answers the questions on which the client wants to use.

So again, these colors can be described as warm colors are cool colors.

So, warm colors would be um

they, you might hear words like auburn, amber, copper, strawberry,

and cool colors might be smoky ash silver.

Okay, clients will refer them as warm or cool,

warm colors are gonna be and you guys could write this down red, orange and yellow,

where cool colors are gonna be blue, green and violet.

Okay, so clients again,

you kind of want to use the opposite of what their skin is to really complement

their,

their whole

dark eyes, their skin, everything

intensity, intensity is going to refer to the strength of the color.

How vivid is that color? How intense is it?

Um what is going to be your result?

Okay,

alright, so before formulating, you do have to really know your color will

because you want to know how to compliment or you want to be able to neutralize

or you wanna, you wanna know intensify to, is this color going to be too intense?

Is this color going to be Okay.

Alright,

I'm gonna start another video on the

different color categories before we continue.

So I'll go ahead and start another video

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