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Transcript of sustainable fashion
The Milton Friedman's doctrine CSR Sustainability and Ethical Fashion Anglo-American view Discussion Russia -American economist, statistician and author
-Recipient of Nobel Memorial Prize
in Economics Sciences.
-The second most popular economist of
the 20th century behind John Maynard Keynes Who is Milton Friedman
(1912-2006) ? Stockholder theory
No 'social responsibility', but profits (totalitarianism) The Friedman Doctrine A concept where companies integrate social and environmental concerns in their business operations
and their interaction with stakeholders on a voluntary basis = stakeholder model
From "Laisser-Faire" to "Shaper of Society" stances CSR A widely accepted definition of sustainability is to "...meet the needs of the present without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own needs" (Brundtland Commission, 1987). Ethical fashion represents an approach to the design, sourcing and manufacture of clothing which maximises benefits to people and communities while minimising impact on the environment
Moreover, it is concerned about poverty reduction, sustainable livelihood
creation, minimising and counteracting environmental concerns, fairer wages and so on.
Examples: Edun, The North Circular (Lily Cole) Sustainability Ethical Fashion Group D
Mia Jepp Mortensen
Olympia Landeau International companies set the rules of game (Timberland, Zara, H&M)
A culture of extensive use of animal furs, synthetic materials and slower adoption of innovative techniques
New generation of designers: Vika Gazinskaya, Oleg Biryukov, Liudmila Norsoyan, Tri’Co Cashmere
Russian Eco Fashion Week (2012) CSR in different cultures Conclusions Why is CSR relevant today and in the future? increasing affluence
changing social expectations
globalisation and free flow of information
ecological sustainability Sustainability in Scandinavia
Nordic Fashion Association (Danish Fashion Institute,
Helsinki Design Week, Icelandic Fashion Council,
Oslo Fashion Week, Swedish Fashion Council )
NICE - The Nordic Initiative Clean and Ethical
Denmark: David Andersen - Zero-Waste Project, Jacpot, NOIR
Sweden: H&M, Filippa K, Cheap Monday, J.Lindeberg Europe Child labour and fraud are very sensitive subjects in this area.
Lebanon signed an international convention in 2001 which included a series of measures to curb the worst forms of child labour
"Green and Glam", an eco-friendly boutique that sells the most stylish, ethical and eco-friendly brands Middle East Comments and questions? Thank you Group D
Mia Jepp Mortensen
Olympia Landeau Child labor issue (Samsung, Apple)
Skilled labor, low wages, long working hours, weak trade unions.
On the other hand, biggest producer of some green fibres such as soy, hemp and organic cotton.
Ethical fashion show in Paris in Sep, 2011. E.g. Cocoon, Lu Kun, Finch, Awakening BRIC countries/China ‘More than a quarter of the world’s production of clothing and textiles is in China, which has a fast growing internal market and the largest share of world trade.’
- Well Dressed report, Cambridge University 2006
It is estimated that China will soon produce 50% or more of all global textiles and garments. Korea Japan -Just Starting to be more aware of CSR
-Mainly Donations(large donations draw media attention and favorable impression) Other Asian Countires -The first Asian Country to be aware of CSR
-Japanese Firms perceive CSR as Instrument to
generate Competitive Advantage
-disregard gender equality, sexual harrassment and racism issues
• The US and the UK have committed to a value of responsibility regarding the fashion industry to set the example to other countries in terms of production process
They have both completed their industrial revolution => producing more at the lowest price despite environmental and social issues is no longer priority n°1 Why? The Anglo-American Vision : A new step in the fashion industry
•Therefore, they advocate to the world that producing in a responsible way is the only good way for the industry to be in synergy with the environment and the individual who makes it sustainable. Eco-friendly or zero-transparency ?
• The Nike case highlights a major turning point in terms of the eco-friendly revolution taking place in the fashion industry
• The brand is accused to employ child labor in Pakistan for the confection of leather accessories
=> Double edged scandal : socio -political / ethical
• Results : Nike reputation suffered
Brand image and integrity deeply damaged
=> To what extent does delocalization and competitive production mode can fully benefit and add value to the brand? : Just Sew It • The workers in Saipan (US) were manipulated to work for the brands factory in exchange of beneficial incentives => they turned out to be completely exploited and the brand has entered the hall of shame of non-transparency.=
In December 2010, 28 workers making clothes for Abercrombie & Fitch and Target were killed in a massive fire at a sweatshop in Bangladesh…
• In order to cut labor costs while still producing clothes “MADE IN USA” employed young Chinese women and Indian children in exchange of terrible working condition
• Closely associated to sweatshops as the workers have minimum wages, overtime pay, healthcare and maternity leave
• Lately, more and more brands try to raise awareness by presenting themselves as eco-friendly ones and offer a new facet to the industry ... Greener , Better, Sronger…. People Tree: Best ethical style award 2010
Pioneer in fair trade and is environmentally sustainable fashion selling in the UK since 2011
Aim is to provide customers desirable fashion while working to improve lives of the environment of the artisans and farmers Milton Friedman said: "There is one and only one social responsibility of business–to use it resources and engage in activities designed to increase its profits so long as it stays within the rules of the game, which is to say, engages in open and free competition without deception or fraud". The Stakeholder Model
Stella Mc Cartney has implemented a no leather / pain free production process
ASOS functions with a carbon-free policy and now has a "Green room" page
=> Emergence of a synergy between fashion ,the respect of well being of the environment and the protection of the individual social rights Green is new Black • Missi Pyle, Golden Globe nominated actress, wore an eco-friendly dress designed by Valentina Delfino at the Oscars (2012)
=> This outstanding appearance validated the emergence of a new kind of fashion in the established industry UK: USA Follow the leader... GAP Wal Mart Abercrombie and Fitch The Korea Times picture 'Indian child labor scandal' (Over 250 million child labour, 37% are held in china) -The first Asian Country to be aware of CSR
-Japanese Firms perceive CSR as Instrument to increase profits and generate Competitive Advantage
-disregard gender equality, sexual harrassment and racism issues "CSR and business are inseparable, just like the two wheels of a bicycle.
Any company that does not fulfill its responsibility to society cannot continue its business,
but a business cannot conduct CSR activities if it is unable to generate profits."
-- Tadashi Yanai, Chairman, President and CEO of Fast Retailing Co., Ltd.