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Katie Stevens

on 28 April 2015

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Transcript of FASHION

Carey Mulligan as Daisy Buchanan for Vogue May 2013. She wears an Alexander McQueen ostrich feather dress, reminiscent of several 1920s flapper styles both in the use of strands of pearls and in silhouette. Photographed by Mario Testino.
Silk and feather dress by designer Louiseboulanger. 1928.
Untitled, c.1910-1919
Photographer Unknown
Though this image is not representative of any trend of this era, I love this image and it immediately reminded me of Viktor & Rolf's Spring 2015 collection. It could be said that it heralds the increased freedom of dress women began to embrace soon after.
Viktor & Rolf, Spring 2015

Yves Sait Laurent, Fall 1978.
A menswear inspired suit and oversize bow
1991, Madonna for Rolling Stone Magazine
Marlene Deitrich in the film Morrocco in 1930.
There seemed to be a sudden resurgence of 1920's fashion in 2012, spurred on by the release of the film,
The Great Gatsby
-a liquid timeline-
-100 years of connections-
Actress Charlotte Andler, 1929. She wears a men's suit, shirt, and bowtie.
Pink Tartan FW 2011
Louise Brooks, 1929
Fortuny's pleats and flowing, body hugging dresses have been and still continue to be an inspiration for designers' creations.
Oscar De La Renta, Pre-Fall 2013
J. Mendel Spring 2013
Christian Dior SS2012
Oscar De La Renta Spring 2012
Silk Pleated “Delphos” Gown in Champagne with Murano Glass Beadwork, c. 1910. Designed by Mariano Fortuny/
Coco Chanel (left) as La Garconne in 1928
Chanel designs a shirt (above) featuring a Breton stripe in 1917, in a style that remains much the same today.
James Dean in a Breton stripe in Rebel Without a cause, 1955.
Balmain Fall 2009
Jean Paul Gaultier Spring 2013
1968. One of Paco Rabanne's 12 Unwearable Dresses.
Emilio Pucci's Rabanne-esque dress in leather for SS15
One of Rabanne's 12 Unwearable Dresses. Photo by Gunnar Larson 1966
Paco Rabanne, SS2012
Rabanne's line looks back to its roots
Tom Ford AW2014
Sequined jersey football dresses by Geoffrey Beane, 1967.
Here, in Michael Kors' SS2015 Collection, we see reference to the 50s' nipped in waists and full skirts. The looks reminds me of Dior's New Look.
Georgia May Jagger (and Henry Hopper) for Vogue UK January 2012 by Alasdair McLelland. Hat by James Lock, top by Dolce & Gabbanna
Model Veruschka walking her dog in Rome, 1971.
Karlie Kloss for Vogue Australia May 2012
Karlie Kloss for Vogue Australia May 2012. Prada dress.
Yulia Kharlapanova featured in the Gucci fashion show for Autumn/Winter 2012
Etro Spring 2012
Miu Miu Resort 2015
Paulina Porzikova in J. H. Collectibles jacket. Photographed by Arthur Elgort, Vogue, May 1990

The image, originally from 1990, was recently featured in a Vogue article, and hails back to the classic Chanel jacket.
Untitled, c.1910-1919. Photographer Unknown.
Mariano Fortuny, c.1907
Deitrich's influential menswear style would inspire fashion 60 years in the future.
The style "La Garconne," popularized by Chanel in the late 20s, is revived in the 70s in this cheeky ensemble by YSL.
Chanel, 1917
Marimekko (Mary’s Dress,) 1974
A loose maxi dress is a staple, whether it be for a 70s girl or modern woman.
The dress on the right features the same sort of patchwork crochet as the cape from the 70s, on left.
Judith Weston, “Homage to Tamales Bay” crocheted cape
DvF, 1975
Jerry Hall for DvF, 1975
Gucci created a dress very similar to the classic wrap dresses designed by Diane von Furstenburg 40 years earlier.
Hussein Chalayan: The Tangent Flows, 1993

The creator of these metal dresses let them rust underground before sending them out on the runway. Although not immediately apparent, they remind me of Rabanne's 12 unwearable dresses. They are also crafted from an unconventional matierial and read as very conceptuallly artistic.
McQueen seems to be looking back to Schiapparelli for inspiration.
Strong shoulders reappear in the 80s:
Giorgio Armani, 1980
Women in Southern England, 1944
Dior, Fall 2008
Dior, 1958
Dior, Fall 2013
Dior, 1957
Dior constantly looks to it's past and references the "New Look," in today's collections.
summer day dresses by Claire McCardell, 1946
Freida Pinto in a set by Salvatore Ferragamo
Looks similar to McCardell's have become very popular in recent years.
Elsa Sciapparelli, 1938
Shaun Leane for Alexander McQueen, SS1998.
Fortuny continued to design these flowing gowns into the 1910s, and this one in particular could have been an inspiration to De La Renta.
Lous Vuitton, Fall 2012
Unknown designer, c.1950
Vuitton's modern take on a 50s look is fresh while also looking vintage.
Katharine Hepburn is one of the leading ladies for the trend for menswear as womenswear that continues through the decades.
Hat by Arturo Rios, c. 2012
Lily Elsie, 1909
Edwardian picture hats survive in the form of derby hats today.
Full transcript