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Geography 12 Gradation Project

Wave Action and Coastal Landforms

Allie Friesen

on 12 October 2012

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Transcript of Geography 12 Gradation Project

Geography 12 Project
Allie Friesen Parts of a Wave Constructive
(swash is stronger than backwash - builds up coast) Wave Action Destructive
(swash is weaker than backwash - erodes coast) http://www.wiley.com/college/strahler/0471480533/animations/ch19_animations/animation2.html Wave Refraction Swash - the rush of water carried onto a
beach by a breaking wave
Backwash - water returning back into the
ocean after being pushed
onto the shore by a wave Some Useful Terms Wave Action and
Coastal Landforms 4 main ways coastline is eroded:
-CORROSION (materials are dissolved by acidic seawater)
-CORRASION OR ABRASION (sediment wears down rocks and makes them smooth)
-ATTRITION (rocks hit each other and break up)
-HYDRAULIC ACTION (constant pressure against the shore) Coastal Erosion Hydraulic action at the water line of a cliff is called undercutting.
Undercutting causes cliffs to become steeper because they are unable to support themselves and pieces break off. Undercutting Caves






Wave-Cut Platforms What Does Undercutting
Cause? Estuaries: bodies of water that rise and fall with the tides
Rias: long, flooded river valleys created by land subsiding or sea levels rising
Fjords: troughs formed when a glacier eroded a river valley to the ocean Longshore Drift Shorelines/Features waves slow down in shallow water, bending and eroding headlands the movement of sand and sediment along a beach caused by waves and currents a form of deposition Spit - a ridge of sand created by longshore drift
Tombolo - a spit that has grown to connect an island to another island
Groynes - man-made barriers built to stop sand from being removed from a beach by longshore drift Depositional Features Ria Estuary Fjord http://oceanica.cofc.edu/an%20educator'sl%20guide%20to%20folly%20beach/guide/driftanimation.htm
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