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Bubble Up Fashion

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by

Lisa Porter

on 19 August 2013

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Transcript of Bubble Up Fashion

Bubble Up
Instead of trickle-down, bubble-up. Instead of the bottom end of the market emulating the top end, precisely the reverse.
“Styles which start life on the street corner have a way of ending up on the backs of top models on the world’s most prestigious fashion catwalks. This shouldn’t surprise us because the authenticity which streetstyle is deemed to represent is a precious commodity. Everyone wants a piece of it” Ted Polhemus.
“Styles which start life on the street corner have a way of ending up on the backs of top models on the world’s most prestigious fashion catwalks. This shouldn’t surprise us because the authenticity which streetstyle is deemed to represent is a precious commodity. Everyone wants a piece of it” Ted Polhemus.
Fashion evolves and changes constantly. Fashion designers, once thought of to be the “custodians of design” are now grappling with the idea of a new source of influence in fashion styles. The street and streetstyle fashion has become the stage from which haute couture fashion designers are taking their inspiration; styles which begin on the street or in subcultures are now being worn by models on high-fashion catwalks.

"Perfecto"
motorcycle jacket
The “Perfecto” motorcycle jacket (also referred to as the “Bronx” jacket) was made by the Schott Brothers Company of New York became one of the most recognisable symbols of the youth rebellion after Marlo Brando was seen wearing one in the 1953 movie The Wild One.

However, the black leather motorcycle jacket gradually became more accepted as everyday fashion throughout the 1970′s and into the 80s and was soon became “the look” for serious rock musicians. The Perfecto jacket was the catalyse to the changing view of the leather motorcycle jacket. Fashion designers jumped on the leather jacket “bandwagon”. Well-known “street-cred” designers of the time, such as Katharine Hamnett and Jean-Paul Gautier began to produce their own jazzed-up versions of the motorcycle jacket, taking the garment commonly only associate with rebellious subcultures to high-fashion catwalks.

One of the best examples of the bubble-up process can be seen with the development of the leather jacket. Adopted by a number of different subcultures; motorcycle gangs, greasers and music subcultures (punks, goths and metalheads), the leather jacket was worn mostly for either fashionable or protective reasons, a way of projecting a potentially intimidating appearance. These negative connotations associated with the jacket helped to create the idea that people wearing them were “looking for trouble”.
Leather Jacket
Hippies
Punks
Hip Hop
Subcultures
Street fashion is fashion that is considered to have emerged not from studios, but from the grassroots. Street fashion is generally associated with youth culture, and is most often seen in major urban centers. Mainstream fashion often adopts street fashion trends as influences. Most major youth subcultures have had an associated street fashion

Goths
Rasta
The Rastafari movement is an African-based spiritual ideology that arose in the 1930s in Jamaica. A great proportion of the rasta fashion pieces chromed with the features of the Jamaican flag. The assembly of red, yellow and green have become a global symbol and are heavily incorporated into the clothing to this day. Rasta fashion is comfortable and vibrant, complementing the subculture of people acutely.

The Goth subculture is a contemporary subculture found in many countries. It began in England during the early 1980s in the Gothic rock scene, an offshoot of the post-punk genre. Its imagery and cultural proclivities indicate influences from the 19th century Gothic literature along with horror films. Gothic fashion is stereotyped as conspicuously dark, eerie, mysterious, complex, and very exotic. Typical Gothic fashion includes dyed black hair, dark eyeliner, black fingernails, black period-styled clothing; Goths may or may not have piercings. Styles are often borrowed from the Elizabethan, Victorian or medieval period and often express pagan, occult or other religious imagery.

Hip hop fashion, also known as urban fashion is a distinctive style of dress originating with African American youth on the scene of New York City, Los Angeles, Chicago, Philadelphia, the San Francisco Bay Area, Detroit, Memphis, Virginia, Atlanta, and St. Louis among others. Each city contributed various elements to its overall style seen worldwide today. Hip hop fashion complements the expressions and attitudes of hip hop culture in general.
The punk subculture, which centres around punk rock music, includes a diverse array of ideologies, fashions and forms of expression, including visual art, dance, literature and film. The subculture is largely characterized by anti-establishment views and the promotion of individual freedom. Punks seek to outrage others with the highly theatrical use of clothing, hairstyles, cosmetics, tattoos, jewellery and body modification. Early punk fashion adapted everyday objects for aesthetic effect: ripped clothing was held together by safety pins or wrapped with tape; ordinary clothing was customised by embellishing it with marker or adorning it with paint; a black bin liner became a dress, shirt or skirt; safety pins and razor blades were used as jewellery. Also popular have been leather, rubber, and vinyl clothing.

The Hippie subculture arose in the 1960's in North America and western EuropeThey possess a core belief set revolving around the values of peace and love as being essential in an increasingly globalized society, and they are oftentimes associated with non-violent anti-governmental groups. Men often wore beards, while women wore little or no makeup, with many going braless. Hippies often chose brightly coloured clothing and wore unusual styles, such as bell-bottom pants, vests, tie-dyed garments, dashikis, peasant blouses, and long, full skirts. Much hippie clothing was self-made in defiance of corporate culture, and hippies often purchased their clothes from flea markets and second-hand shops. Favoured accessories for both men and women included Native American jewellery, head scarves, headbands and long beaded necklaces.

History of street style photgraphy
1997
2005
present
2010
1980
1978
Street style has always existed, but it was only celebrated in recent decades
1978– After taking a picture of Greta Garbo walking on the streets of New York, Bill Cunningham submitted a compilation of impromptu photos of famous people to The New York Times. These revolutionary pictures were a turning point for The Times as it was the first time any newspaper had published unauthorized photos of celebrities.

1980– Terry Jones leaves British Vogue to found I-D magazine—a magazine known for its famous “straight-up” shots. Regular people on the street dressed up for clubbing and other social pursuits could now be immortalized in a nationally distributed publication’

1997– Shoichi Aoki started documenting Japanese street style when he noticed that young people in Tokyo’s Harajuku area were adopting modern variations of traditional Japanese dress. He established FRUiTS magazine to document these unique styles of dress.

2005– The Internet age grew and so did the proliferation of fashion blogs and, in turn, street style photography blogs. 2005 was the year that some of the greatest in street fashion photography, like Scott Schuman and Tommy Ton, began their popular blogs. These blogs—with their beautiful imagery and glorification of the wardrobe of the everyday woman led to lucrative careers shooting for high profile magazines and brand campaigns.

2010– Fashion bloggers gained in sartorial influence and brands began gifting them goods to promote sales. The practice of “gifting” became controversial in that the supposedly “natural” style of bloggers were being compromised by being given free stuff and having to serve as a glorified advertisement for these brands. People began questioning the integrity of super bloggers who consistently “sold” themselves out. Street style photography began to look more like highly stylized photo shoots than a candid moment on the street. More and more brands leveraged the influence of bloggers attending high-profile events like New York Fashion Week as product placement because they realized that consumers were more likely to buy something a popular fashion blogger wore than an A-list celebrity on the red carpet.

Present– With anything that becomes overly homogenous or commercialized, there has been a bit of a backlash against the typified fashion blogger. Some readers of fashion blogs have become jaded and are turning more and more toward newer, less stylized, imperfect photography, and less brand-affiliated bloggers in an attempt to go back to the “innocence” of personal style fashion blogging. But by and large, readers still frequent brand-heavy blogs as they try to promote their own personal blogs to achieve street style fame and fortune.

Street style is seen as one of the most beneficial forms of photography towards the fashion industry. Street style has become some popular that the fashion industry almost relies on it now to help predict and produce future trends. Behind the scenes of the lastest designer trends, there are fashion scouts all over the world who report back to fashion forecasters about reoccurring trends on the streets. The relationship between the stylish people on the streets and the fashion industry is stronger than ever. The fashion industry watches people on the streets to see what’s popular and what works well, to inspire their next collections.
Digital Communication
To help keep up to date with the latest street styles across the globe....
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