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Functional Fabric / 2014 Fall/Winter Trend

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nelson noll

on 29 November 2013

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Transcript of Functional Fabric / 2014 Fall/Winter Trend

Functional Fabric
Functional Fabrics + Garment show
Fashion Trends
Colors
Accessories

2014 Fall/Winter Trend
Summary
Summary
1.Wicking
Also known as: Capillary action.
Ability of liquids to flow into narrow spaces against the force of gravity.
Description
Characteristics
Fabric
Function
End product
Wicking / Moisture Movement
Usage:
Sportswear, Activewear, functional underwear.

Fibers:
Polyester and Polyamide (Hydrophobic)

Function:
Moves moisture away from the skin --> Outer fabric. (Quick Dry is very similar)
Testing Methods (Wicking, Drying rate, Water absorbency)
Water Drop Test: Soak up water drop
JIS L 1907 Byreck Method (Wicking): Woven > 5cm, Knits > 8cm
JIS L 1096 (Drying rate): Moisture after 30 Min: <30%
Water Resistance
Function: Do not allow water to pass through.

Fabric: Densly woven fabrics, Membranes (micro porous/ hydrophilic) PU coating (polyurethane)

Membrane + Fabric = laminate

Membranes: polytetrafluoroethylene (ePTF)

Coatings used are liquid solutions sprayed onto the fabric.
Testing
DIN EN 20811 (ISO 811) = Static column water resistance.
Must pass water pressure of at least 1300mm.
Increased pressure, until penetration occurs at 3 different places.

Absolute water proofness can only be achieved with sealed seams!
Sealed Seams
Welded/ Bonded: Ultrasonic, assembles two or more layers of material. Glued together to be waterproof without stitches.

Sealed: Conventional stitches will be covered with tape.
Water Repellency
Resistance of a fabric to surface wetting.

Functional Effect: Protection against rain and water-based stains.

Two types:
1. Regular WR = Not wash fast.
2. Durable WR = Permanently wash fast

Finishing: Flurocarbon (Teflon)
Trademark Brands for waterproofing
Anti-Odor / Anti-Bacterial
Effect: Increased Hygiene, Stops bacterial Growth, No smell.

Technologies: Cyclodextrine or silver based antimicrobials
Can either be spun into the yarn or used as a spray on finishing.

Uses: Athlectic wear, Underwear, Medical wear.
Trademark brands for Anti-Bacterial
Anti- Mosquito
Protection from mosquito bites

Substance: Permethrin
Can be utilized in the yarn + spray on

End uses: Sportswear, Hunting apparel, Sleeping bags, Military clothing.




UV Cut
Radiation from the sun is comprised of visible light, infrared and UV (Ultra Violet)

UV rays are very harmful to humans

End use: Garments, hats, sportswear, swimwear

Technology: UV protective agent

Test Norm: ASTM D6603
Thermal Warmer
Function: Increasing body warmth

Fabric: Fleece, Closely packed yarn + knit, warmth is trapped.

Outlast (temperature regulation):
Germanium Alloy Yarn
Germanium is a hard rock, has the same crystal structure as a diamond.

It is a Semiconductor with both electrical and insulator tendencies.

Germanium Alloy Crystal (GAC) has Far infra red, which penetrate the skin, causing better blood circulation


Breathable Fabrics
Function: Move perspiration vapor away from the body and out through the clothing.
Three man types: 1) Closely woven or knitted fabrics 2) Micro porous system 3) Hydrophilic system


Micro holes, to small for a raindrop, but big enough for a water molecule, allowing for vapour to pass through/
Summary
Color Trend
Styling Trend
New Accessories
Colors
Crucial part in fashion
Expresses emotion
Important personality descriptors.
Accessories
New Styles
Grunge Bracelets at Saint Laurent
Brooches at Emanuel Ungaro
Offbeat at Lanvin
Tribal at Donna Karan
Earcuffs at Chloe
QUESTIONS?
Thank you for Listening!
You will receive a report about rising Chinese factory costs this afternoon
Full transcript