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New York Fashion Week
Transcript of New York Fashion Week
To the outside world, Fashion Week may look like the most fabulous party on earth, but insiders are getting a little tired of all the fuss. In its present form, it is more like Fashion Month, beginning Thursday with the overscheduled spring collections in New York and ending with those in Paris on Oct. 3, with no breaks in between for the now thousands of writers, retailers, photographers, videographers, bloggers and hordes of indeterminate somebodies who for various reasons Really Must Be There.
The executive director of the Council of Fashion Designers of America, she orchestrated Fashion Week’s move to Bryant Park, where runway shows took place twice a year under enormous white tents for 15 years, establishing New York designers on par with their counterparts in Europe. The move to Lincoln Center in 2010, necessitated by a dispute with park management over the duration and timing of the shows, was heralded at the time for bringing the luster of the performing arts to fashion.
But there is little disagreement that the move has been a failure. In March, a lawsuit was filed against New York City and Lincoln Center over the use of the park for commercial events like Fashion Week which effectively limit the public’s access for most of the year.
“Whether Lincoln Center will continue or not, we do not know,” said Diane von Furstenberg, the president of the fashion council.
Of the more than 300 collections shown during New York Fashion Week, here were the ones that created the most buzz and left the biggest impressions on fashion editors as they headed off to the next round of shows in London, Milan and Paris.
Front Row to Fashion Week
A beautiful, innovative collection in which Francisco Costa layered references to urban tribes, ’80s art, handcraft and even, seemingly, radical chicks of the 1920s. It added up to a modern expression of fashion.
A challenging collection, inspired by the notion of home and interiors, it nonetheless showed the designers in a simpler vein.Technology, meanwhile, informs the design of Proenza Schouler in a way that seems natural
Sometimes fashion is all about timing. His conservative-chic clothes, including navy blazers, cuffed denim shorts and belted full-skirted dresses, sounded an optimistic note.
With new proportions, shorter hemlines and a simplified look, he refreshed his minimalist style. His proposal for layering was also modern — a trim wrap skirt over matching shorts.
He presented a variety of styles and attitudes in one collection — snooty tweed suits, pretty lace separates, Spanish evening fantasies — but there was no feeling of role-playing. He made glamour seem natural.
Oscar de la Renta
Thom Browne continues to provoke. Ignore the Elizabethan silhouettes and focus on the incredible fabrics and the beautiful effect.
It was just a skirt and a shirt, but done with sophistication. And he refreshed the idea of the practical, inspiring high fashion
Ms. von Furstenberg surprised several designers at a fashion council membership meeting recently when she offhandedly remarked that a few years from now, they may all be showing digitally.
“Things have changed so much that it is difficult to know exactly where we are going,” she said on the phone the other day. “I don’t have a crystal ball.”
In 1941, when the International Ladies’ Garment Workers Union first invited 30 journalists to New York to visit the designer showrooms, its membership balked, not seeing how writing about clothes would help sell them. Even after Eleanor Lambert, the great 20th-century cheerleader for American fashion, got her hands on the event two years later and created the first “press week” at the Waldorf-Astoria, the rag reporters grumbled, though their numbers grew and grew.
There are already signs this season that many designers are reacting against the hype by moving to more “intimate” shows, including Mr. Altuzarra and Reed Krakoff. Oscar de la Renta said he was cutting back the number of invitations to 350, telling Women’s Wear Daily that industry professionals “shouldn’t have to go through 30,000 people, and 10,000 who are trying to take pictures of all of those people who are totally unrelated to the clothes.”
In fact, the major events in New York, are coming under fire from all directions. Jewish editors and retailers are upset that the New York shows overlap with the High Holy Days. Lincoln Center area residents are furious about the intrusion of the noisy shows and polluting generators
Intrusion and noisy shows?
Generally speaking, clothing which was produced before the 1920s is referred to as antique clothing and clothing from the 1920s to 20 years before the present day is considered vintage. Retro, short for retrospective, or "vintage style" usually refers to clothing that imitates the style of a previous era. Reproduction, or repro, clothing is a newly-made, copy of an older garment
Most vintage clothing has been previously worn, but a small percentage of pieces have not. These are often old warehouse stock, and more valuable than those that have been worn, especially if they have their original tags. Referred to as deadstock or new old stock (NOS), they nevertheless sometimes have flaws. Vintage clothing may be either commercially produced or handmade by individuals.
Italian designers are angry that the London designers are stealing all the creative thunder, and American designers are angry the Italian designers won’t budge on their show dates, forcing everyone here to work on Labor Day and the Jewish holidays. Vanessa Friedman, in her Financial Times fashion blog, argued that designers wouldn’t dare have shows on Easter.