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Ethiopia, Ninety Plus, & the Kemgin
Transcript of Ethiopia, Ninety Plus, & the Kemgin
depend on coffee for their living. [46% GDP/85% employment] the Ethiopian Commodity Exchange [ECX] established in 2008 reduce transaction costs & risk to growers, to control foreign exchange handles 90% of all coffee exports [60% made up of unwashed] mandatory [traded through ECX, through a cooperative, or by estate owners] handles coffee in commodity fashion / lack of traceability
& certifications auction as a lot based trade (adulteration of coffee/region leakage/price manipulation?) to an exchange trade based on categorized commodity bulk coffees 2010: created the Direct Specialty Trade auction (DST) offer high-quality, traceable coffees to the international specialty market, while guaranteeing an 85% return of the closing auction price to the producer or cooperative. ECX given a grade and a geographical designation once graded, it is stored at an ECX warehouse to prevent tampering, and coffee is bid on and sold to exporters trading platform where local buyers and sellers come together to trade (assuring quality, quantity, payment and delivery) cooperatives & cooperative unions farmers (most of which hold very small parcels of land) bring their coffee to local co-ops and pool their coffee to create lots large enough for export co-op union functions as an intermediary between the primary co-ops and international buyers 4 unions: Oromia, Sidama, Yirgacheffe, Kafa Forest private growers not many have the infrastructure to effectively export on their own ninety plus coffee started in 2006 by Joseph Brodsky began with the idea of working with producers and mills in Ethiopia to help process and effectively export top-quality beans "coffee-making,” creating a new way of identifying and categorizing coffees develop taste profiles through "innovations" in coffee production and processing (utilizes its processing system in alliance with producers in Ethiopia and on its own gesha estate in Panama) place an emphasis on processing (what they attribute to be the most important element) separate coffee lots (micro-climate/varietal/time of harvest) based on the desired cup profile and alter their processing techniques to achieve their aims
provide technical training to some of the farmers with whom they work. [they DO NOT pick, sort, or process cherry or parchment in Ethiopia (they do in Panama)] coffee is picked and sorted by small-holder farmers and processed in a dry mill by Ethiopian workers. (90+ cup and help oversee logistics) SENSORY ROOM cupping (ritualized differently) categorization 4 categories spectrum of influence of fruit and body W2, N2, H2, SK washed/natural/"clean" natural-"intense" washed/
solar profile dryer - Solkiln rated with numerical levels related to both quality and scarcity (7/12) Panama NP Gesha: Lycello W2, Juliette H2, Perci N2, Perci Red N2, Lotus SK, Sillvia SK Ethiopia NP Heirlooms: Nekisse N2, Hachira N2, Belekatu W2, Kemgin W2, Tchembe N2, Tuktant N2, Aricha, Beloya KEMGIN mash-up of a growing region (Nekempte) and one of the coffee’s most prominent flavor characteristics (ginger) initially: result of primarily two varietals of coffee (74110 and 7487) grown around 2000m high in Nekempte region in West Wellega hand-sorted, wet-processed
dried on raised beds - sparsely
layered--moved around utilize profile drying (a moisture specific drying process) instead of drying equally for a predetermined number of days, they have designed a system to dry the coffee to certain moisture levels in a specified period of time this year: Chalalacktu, Borena, Oromia 1800 - 2050 meters Heirloom Ethiopian cultivars wet-processed 2011: Blue Bottle Coffee/Kemgin won the Good Food Awards created to redefine ‘good food’ as being tasty, authentic and responsible floral notes of jasmine and gentle bergamot,
lime and peach, lemongrass and ginger, molasses, lavendar NINETY PLUS SUSTAINABILITY their part in the promotion of Ethiopian dry-processed coffees [high risk level for farmers (ferment, acetic acid) -- not going to produce it the same every year] innovative drying techniques
idea surrounding taste profiles influencing how the coffee is sourced company/producer traceability NPGE: ecologically integrated collection of distinct micro estates committed to the understanding and sustainable cultivation of the heirloom Ethiopia Gesha varietal/center for processing science and education picking ripe cherry --- sugar content analysis
max. sugar level
corresponding cherry appearance various small farm holders relationships with farmers (?) forward contracting coffees (which allows them to fix some cherry prices) private estates that hold their own export license may sell and export directly to international buyers (IMPORTER) (of his particular liking) estate farmers questions/concerns/advancements regarding 90+